Razor Sharp! Sharpen Drill Bit With This Easy Method

Razor Sharp! Sharpen Drill Bit With This Easy Method
Hello friends, Drill bits become dull over time, so they need to be sharpened regularly. Many people want to learn how to sharpen drill bits. That's why we showed you how to sharpen drill bits in this video. If your drills are dull and no longer drill well, be sure to watch this video called how to sharpen drill bits. easy to learn how to sharpen with this method
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[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

If your drills are dull and no longer drill well, be sure to watch this video called how to sharpen drill bits.

[@pfoxhound]

Cutting chips are small, needs sharpening.

[@robertqueberg4612]

Please allow me to ruffle a few feathers, about this subject. I am a retired toolmaker, that has had a LOT of drill sharpening experience. At one stage of my apprenticeship, I spent three months in the tool grinding room. The first order of business, was to resharpen all of the drill bits, that had been dulled on the previous day's two shifts. The most important detail, is to take a close look at the point of a factory ground drill. The bottom of the drilled hole is a cone. As you move along the cutting edges, from the outer corner, inward to the "dead center", the amount of clearance has to increase, and gradually spiral, or wrap around the drill center line to achieve a free cutting drill. To get this geometry with a RH drill, the right hand needs to become a sort of spherical pivot point, that the drill can rotate about. Keep this hand close to the grinding wheel or belt. Once the drill is held with the cutting edge horizontal, at the proper angle, the left hand swings the opposite end of the drill in an arc, which tracks down and out, in a counter clockwise direction. This may sound complicated and crazy, but it is the way that twist drill point geometry needs to be ground. Buy some cheap new, or used drills of various diameters. Then sit or stand in front of your grinder, and practice until it starts to look "factory". Then try to drill some holes. I have helped a lot of guys improve their grinding. Spending your time grinding drills, will do more for you than trying to build a way around, what is not that difficult, once it is learned. Earlier I mentioned "belt". I worked in a shop during my senior year of highschool, where nearly all of the drill sharpeneing was done by individuals, on a 6" belt sander, which is always flat/straight. I was taught to gage the lip lengths and angles, by holding the drill vertical in front of some plain light source, rotate the drill in your fingers, to align the lips. Your eyes will show you the errors. Now go grab some drill bits, and practice. Soon, you will wonder why you thought that it was difficult.

[@sunriseboy4837]

👍....awesome.

[@markseibert6369]

One of the first things I learned in shop class was to never grind on the side of a wheel. Look at how non true this wheel is running. Grinding wheels are not made to take lateral forces applied to them and may explode, taking flesh with them.

[@AusWorkshop]

Yep...Welcome to KZbin!

[@santoshdandekar6409]

You must dress the wheel with diamond dresser before you grind the drill bits. Star dressers will not give you required aligned surface of wheel.

[@kennychall]

yes

[@michaelkennedy2528]

Well look on the bright side, he did not try to hold the metal he was drilling lol. KZbin is hit and miss, mainly hit when they injure themselves.

[@glennmorgan4197]

You mean that you can actually learn how to do this without trying to reinvent the wheel? But how is he going to call himself an influencer and entrepreneur when he's asked what he does for a living?🙄🤣

[@oldschooljack3479]

To properly sharpen a drill but you need two angles... You need to sharpen the cutting edge, the primary angle... Then you need to relieve the primary angle with a steeper secondary angle. This provides relief and keeps the metal of the bit behind the cutting edge from rubbing on the workpiece. The thinner the primary angle, the more efficiently the bit will cut... The trade-off is that the thinner the primary is the weaker it is and will wear out faster. Also of great importance is the rpm of the turning bit and the pressure and speed with which the bit is fed into the work... The larger the diameter of the bit the slower the rpm and heavier the feed... the smaller the bit, the higher the rpm's and the lighter the feed.

[@TheCommo81]

The lack of cutting fluid is killing me. No wonder the bit is that dull. I use water-based coolant on my bits and end mills and 3 years now never needed to sharpen anything. I even keep some in a spray bottle next to my drill press. At least use some WD-40, cutting oil, or windex or something.

[@teamboy19]

Do not use the side of a wheel to grind it's dangerous. Just do it by eye ,you will soon get the technique. It's easy

[@jvmiller1995]

You never stand directly in front of one when turning it on either. If a wheel has damage it is most likely to blow apart coming up to speed. His wheel also looked like it needed dressed as it was not pinning up perfect round. You shapen at a 118 degree incuded angel. besides the angle it is being ground you have to measure each side that they are exact length from the point or it will not make a perfect round hole, Pus when you start the cut you drop the bottom stem of the bit a little as you rotate to grind releif and it takes a lot of practice to get good. You can get a drill gage for few buck to set the angle and measure the length of the flut to ensure the point remains centered. Also most are ground at 118 not 120 degrees but they can be take to a135 degree included angle. You can tell he was not any good as grinding on the side of the wheel is as rookie of standing in front of it when if comes on

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

I've been using the side for decades; never had a problem.

[@morrismclean3584]

@@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals - Most quality, traditional grinding wheel manufactures have the caution on the blotters, NOT TO USE THE SIDE OF A WHEEL. I have seen one blow up on a person. All happens in - micro seconds. I operated a Tool and Cutter Sharpening/design/manufacture business for 40 years.

[@jvmiller1995]

@@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals Does not make it right. If you wear the side of the wheel down to much it becomes unsound and can blow up. But it is your hands and face so do what you like. Just do not encourage others to do the same.

[@kennychall]

yes

[@stevethomas4491]

The edge may be sharp but it won't cut properly as you didnt grind a relief angle thats why you get all that squeaking the back edge is rubbing

[@fk5339]

I'm ok with first method but second is wrong because side wall of grinding wheel is not supposed to be used for grinding. Sorry bro ...

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

You can use first then apply second for sharpen. result surprising. Thanks for comment 🫶

[@auntysocialist]

Sidewall grinding weakens your stone​@@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment

[@MacDa-yy8xn]

Grinding on the side of the wheel is a great way to get a piece of that wheel in the face at some point. NEVER DO THIS.

[@andycrawford8671]

@@MacDa-yy8xnThis is an old wives tale. Moderate pressure on the side will not cause the wheel to break or "weaken" . Heavy pressure should certainly be avoided, but sharpening drill bits on the side is light. In fact, the Starrett drill sharpening guide mentioned by hoppercar is designed to sharpen on the side of the wheel. Been using one of them for years, and they work well.

[@dereckhasken9055]

Yeah nothing wrong with sidewall sharpening - only health and safety fools believe it is not. You could lower your rpm a touch, some more pressure and lubricant when drilling.

[@sunriseboy4837]

He's cheating....he is an expert....LOL! Thank you for an excellent demo. Great visuals. Thank you!

[@brucepigeon3671]

A simple way to grind your relief, is to color the tip of the drill bit with a colored magic marker. Then starting at the base of the relief grind up to the cutting edge leaving a shadow of the color remaining. Don't over grind the relief as it makes the bit drill want to remove more material than it should. This works it just takes a little practice Also if you want both flutes to drill the same amount. When you are grinding the drill. Make a single pass then rotate the bit 1/2 turn, By doing this you are removing near the same amount on both flutes, keeping the center of the bit in the center. Never make multiple passes before turning the bit. One pass then 1/2 turn, one pass then 1/2 turn. Happy grinding

[@beef539]

Holding that drill bit up against the side of that grinding stone at that angle can be very dangerous. If it catches, it will throw it at you or into your face.I’ve seen it happen.

[@stevesamuelson2260]

No pilot hole?? No Cutting Oil?? Man, you do it the hard way.

[@mrmyorky5634]

How true, a pre drilled pilot hole of the same diameter as the web of the main drill reduces the drilling pressure needed by around 75%

[@zaimhazmin8851]

tamil style

[@chemicallust77]

And using a chisel tip in metal

[@johnphillips8088]

Cutting a v in the block will let you sharpen multiple sizes of bits…

[@Calligraphybooster]

A nice method to cut sandpaper or linnen is to fold it with the abrasive side inward and then use another piece to sand the fold. Save you scissors and you always have the tool at hand.

[@alcord2540]

Drill bits need to be point thinned to cut steel.The central part of the drill needs grinding so the non cutting part is as small as possible.Otherwise drill with a small"pilot drill" and then follow with the bigger drill.

[@richjones5432]

Yours is just about as close to anything I would of said. Top comment.

[@diatonicdelirium1743]

Why don't you use some oil when drilling?

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Yes,reduce friction and allow for easier drilling and cutting into metallic parts. Thanks

[@arthurwagar88]

Regrinding carbide concrete drills for spring blades etc works nicely.

[@hoppercar]

Starrett makes a real nice drill point gauge for grinding by hand....but after youve ground so many by hand over the years, you dont even need a gauge anymore

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Great point!

[@randolphsnyder1505]

Smaller than 3/16 dia. I need a drill gage.I have also found those grinder cut off wheels are great for splitting the points on 1/4 dia and larger.

[@ToolTipsHacks]

super cool ❤

[@nathanhale7444]

Basically the trailing edge (the surface after the cutting edge) needs to be ground deeper than the cutting edge. I just eyeball it

[@masterjefftkd]

I was hoping someone would say that! I've always eyeballed it, too. Cutting the back edge deeper to avoid friction always seemed like common sense, as did doing one pass per side to keep the center as true as possible. I've made suppressors which require extreme precisions, as well as all sorts of metal and wood projects. My self-sharpened bits have always done the trick no problem.

[@nathanhale7444]

@@masterjefftkd cool.

[@nedcramdon1306]

This video and a lot of the comments are really helpful in learning the process. Those larger bits are as expensive as hell.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

😳

[@markchodroff250]

Great what do you do with the very small drills , sizes below 1/16 it’s been a problem!

[@davidwillard7334]

Why you would use That in the First place , would be Beyond me !

[@robertratliff3446]

A drill bit is properly sharpened when it puts out long shavings not small shavings. Plus he's not putting a relief edge on it

[@thomasrupp8118]

Method 3: Find an old engineer and let him teach you how to sharpen drills. No jig required, works 100%

[@mrmyorky5634]

And if you find a truthful old engineer he'll tell you that he's spent the last fifty years hand grinding drill's that all cut satisfactorily but not quite as well as a properly jig ground drill.

[@Den60nar]

Grinding Wheels are not designed to grind on the side. They can cause great harm it they come apart.

[@simon4043]

The leading edge of each side of the drill has to project a bit further than the metal and trailing edge behind. You did that well in the first demo, but not in the second

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

We are not applying any pressure on the side of the wheel, we are normally working on giving it a shape.Thanks for comment

[@jozefbubez6116]

Guess we all do it but when I was a lad we were told not to use the side of a grindstone. Any advice, please? Thanks!

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

I've been using the side for decades; never had a problem.

[@morrismclean3584]

@@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals - Most quality, traditional grinding wheel manufactures have the caution on the blotters, NOT TO USE THE SIDE OF A WHEEL. I have seen one blow up on a person. All happens in - micro seconds. I operated a Tool and Cutter Sharpening/design/manufacture business for 40 years.

[@isaiahrey-leetejeda9914]

Cool

[@jonhstones]

No one has picked up on the fact that the drill is running backwards at the beginning,no wonder it won't bite.

[@Cruner62]

optical illusion with camera

[@dontghostbanmeplz8788]

look again in 0,5x speed when he turns off the drill

[@martybeach6704]

That is the first thing I saw,drill looks to be running backwards!!

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

It's the same optical illusion that makes wagon wheels appear to go backward on TV screens. It's not too late to delete this ignorant remark...

[@jeffdschaak3868]

Others have pointed out dangerous habits, but I did not see the measurement to make sure each cutting edge is equal length, to center the point and reduce bit walk. Thanks for trying. Just refer to a manual next time.

[@hbknhry]

Great insight. Penetrating oil (AKA Witch Piss), heat, and patience. Thanx.!!

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

thanks for support

[@pikifrino]

Interesting video!.. Thank you

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thank you too!

[@michaeladams2644]

Relief angle! Use yours eyes and grind it on your bench grinder, you'll soon find out when you got it right👍

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thanks for the tip!

[@HuFlungDung2]

For those who are obsessed with equal drill lip lengths, thinking this causes oversize holes, it does not. I have deliberately offset a 1.75"diameter drill in a Oliver drill pointer, by 1/32" in an effort to make it drill oversize holes. It didn't make a lick of difference. I have taken brand new drills out of the box and had them drill oversize, but I can't make it happen on command when I resharpen them. Maybe the secret is to grind one lip with no clearance and make sure the sharp lip is longer, it might produce an oversized hole.

[@morrismclean3584]

It also depends on other factors, such as rigidity etc. The amount of circular land along the drill, also effects hole quality.

[@chugalug]

I was showed how to sharpen drills on the grinder only using thw wheel face for both angles. Takes practice but its just a small roll of the drill bit after the first angle is ground. Never use the side of the wheel as you show, I've seen them explode from improper use. Can get dangerosly messy

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

We are not applying any pressure on the side of the wheel, we are normally working on giving it a shape. Thanks for your helpful Comment ♥️

[@neilfoster814]

Yes, exactly. 'Twist and roll' by hand, easy to do with a bit of practice.

[@Latenight4k]

تسلم الايادى روعة ما شاء الله اشكرك

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thanks for Helping comment

[@tagomago2178]

That`s set the cat amongst the pigeons - and that was the improved method - plenty of comments though!

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Yes, thanks

[@johnherrmann6879]

Lets see you sharpen those scissors now that u cut the coarse paper....

[@SaveOurSouthside]

Actually, cutting sandpaper is one of many suggested ways to sharpen scissors, mate. GTS 😃

[@olevaiti4302]

The cutting edges of a twist drill must be exactly on the same level to cut two equal chips from the workpiece. Also the relief must be equal behind the cutting edges. There is no way these can be achieved manually only.

[@dingznthingz]

I sharpen my drill bits on a belt sander. It works much better than a grinding wheel.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Ok thanks 😊

[@pamukjanos9792]

Yes, pilot hole and cooling.

[@Forestbrian88]

i was taught it was bad practice to use grinding wheel on the side and not the face(for safety)

[@mrmyorky5634]

Yes I was taught the same thing over fifty years ago although I'll admit to doing it myself occasionally if the face of the wheel was badly grooved and I was in a hurry.

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

Maybe in the old days. I've been using the side of the wheel for years without any problems.

[@hyperatul4067]

wow 😯 super

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thank you so much

[@CRAZYINDIANEXPERIMENT]

nice method useful

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Many many thanks

[@jasonhorrocks1336]

For a very primative shop this isnt terrible. If i did this in our shop id be walked out.

[@Cruner62]

All ok but don't forget to quench after each contact otherwise the cutting edge will soften and will not cut for long.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

thanks

[@HuFlungDung2]

This is totally wrong. Even if it were a high carbon steel drill, if you ruin the temper by overheating during grinding, you cannot restore the temper without doing a complete heat treatment. So don't let a carbon steel tool get so hot that the colors run past a straw brown or it is permanently ruined until you patiently grind back the overheated zone. High speed steels (which is most common nowadays) do not lose their temper, so dunking the hot tool in water only serves the purpose of making the tool comfortable to hold. HSS maintains its hardness up to a dull red heat.

[@davidwillard7334]

Interesting that the card !( The New Drill came in ) says on the Back ! Do not Quench ! The Drill ! In WATER !

[@sickmindgamer637]

super

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thank you

[@richardplesek]

Honestly? You pay too much attention to 120°. Yes, the angle is correct from technical point of view of course. However not that important from drilling point of view. I can sharpen a drill bit in hands only much faster and sharper. Yeah, the angle is likely not 120 😅

[@grafslo4453]

drilling without drill oil ?

[@MrDan7171]

A little bit of oil might help! If it's squeelin', it ain't cuttin'!

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

great

[@timothym2241]

The second method failed to provide clearance of the cutting edge. The first method achieves it automatically because of the roundness of the face of the wheel naturally removes more metal beneath the cutting edge to provide clearance.

[@markdaniel8740]

The second method would work if the jig was skewed.

[@lesschattermoresplatter5769]

Anyone that moves that slow has got to be union 😏

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

thanks 😊

[@mauriziograndi1750]

Good effort mate, but that sharpening can be improved. Cheers.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

thanks for comment

[@FinflazodeTurroai]

Flabberglasting how you sharpen the drill by sharpening it, man !. Keep up with the good work.

[@62cripple]

That sharpened drill is drilling phuked up...😂...chipping the swarth like a mad thing....

[@jacksyful]

what about lube for the drill tip??

[@randyb3347]

How can you be sure that you aren't taking the temper out of the drill bit? Also, can you re-harden the bit to make the edge last longer? Thanks.

[@dirkheubel2899]

High Speed Steel rehardens on cooling

[@randyb3347]

@@dirkheubel2899 Thanks. Does it matter whether you use oil or water for the plunge?

[@dirkheubel2899]

@randyb3347 The cooling rate does not matter as the drill bit returns to its requied hardness, unlike high carbon tool steels, which need to be quenched and tempered if the steel is to reharden to the required. Quenching very hot high speed steels causes micro cracking, let the bit aircool if it has changed colour before quenching in water. Oil on the bit during drilling shouldn't be a problem. Water and soluble oil mix (cooling fluid) if used during drilling should be applied continuously so that the bit remains hard and the bit does not wear whilst softer at high temperature. This is rather messy as most drill tables have no provision to collect the cooling fluid, hence my preference for dry drilling, but I will give oil a try.

[@randyb3347]

@@dirkheubel2899 Thank you.

[@davidvermaa]

Very nice

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thanks

[@richardramia6203]

Las brocas no de afilan de esa forma, así quedan redondas y no hacen hueco, el filo de lo debe sacar de ambos lados y no en circunferencia

[@johnniegriffin4662]

Put oil on the bit when cutting and it will last longer

[@brianiswrong]

I think you also unintentionally sharpened your scissors at 3:05 to boot😮

[@AugustLeavesOffering]

So this is the easy method you say .... Okay then, off to the shop I go.

[@jeffreymiles2607]

Loved how the drill bit is being ran in reverse in the beginning of this video.

[@philmag1]

It was not running in reverse, just an illusion from the FPS in the video, watch when it is turned off it is spinning in the proper direction.

[@randywl8925]

In old western movies the stage coach wheels run backwards too. Think about frames per second.

[@randywl8925]

@charlesrichter3854 .....not to mention how hard it would be to reverse a drill press. Good call 👍

[@nedcramdon1306]

Just need a longer belt and figure eight the sucker!!@@randywl8925

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

It's the same optical illusion that makes wagon wheels appear to go backward on TV screens. It's not too late to delete your embarrassing comment...

[@LarsDcCase]

Very good video.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thank you very much!

[@nst0017]

helps if you set the speed right. For those who didn't notice, OP intentionally sped up the RPMs and slowed them at the end of the video. In other words: clickbait.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

try this ?

[@Jimmyturner1942]

How does he know where the center of the drill bit is when he is grinding?

[@felgate11]

What's all this 120 degree thing about?? - OK if using 2 Nuts as a Gauge, but If using a Protractor, then the Ideal angle is 118 degrees.

[@davidwillard7334]

They say as high one thirty Five Degrees

[@dirkheubel2899]

A properly sharpened bit produces two identical size continuous shavings untill the pressure is released. If only one shaving or one smaller shaving stop the machine without releasing the pressure on the drill bit. Note the one cutting the biggest shaving and regrind that one.

[@rcclassiccrawlers4368]

That’s kinda cool, but I think I’ll stick with the Drill Doctor.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

🙂

[@RollinMyOwn]

Do that to a 1/16th bit....

[@jbarner13]

You really should invest in a better quality grinder and true up the wheels. That looks like a piece of soft steel plate you're drilling and, if so, you should be throwing spiral chips out of the flutes when the bit is sharp, even without using cutting oil, which is highly suggested in this application as it will improve cutting, surface finish, and tool life.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Thanks for the tip

[@Mike-hb4pc]

I don't think that drill bit was that sharp. A sharp drill bit will produce those 'curly cues' from the steel if they're sharp enough, IMO

[@markdaniel8740]

With larger bits, I will usually drill a pilot hole. A larger bit has a significant portion in the center that cannot cut. You can also add a relief on the back which allows the opposite cutting edge to continue closer to the center. Your bits will also appreciate cutting oil.

[@sethcarlson7616]

Ding,ding, ding, you are correct sir 👍

[@janvandenbroek234]

Nerver, NEVER use the side of the grindingwheel if you want to stay alive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@sethcarlson7616]

Why no, no on the side? Ive done it for years.

[@Cruner62]

The stone will become dangerous in time when using to grind - stone are tested and certified to prevent collapse that could be fatal to an operator.

[@HuFlungDung2]

Because there is always some idiot out there who will press hard on a rough running wheel, shock loading the wheel and fracturing it. Plus, you cannot effectively dress the side of the wheel without reducing it's width. Wheels get dull when they don't get dressed, and anyone who has used the outer rim of the wheel properly knows it needs dressing often, or it gets dull and starts burning the workpiece.

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

Exactly. I've been using the side of the wheel for years. Never had a problem. Stupid people just repeat shit they've heard.

[@sethcarlson7616]

@@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals I only use the side for sharping my drill bits, a guy doesn't use much pressure to sharpen drill bits, so it doesn't take as much from the wheel.

[@user-zp2dl6xm4n]

Your method may be GREAT, but please say what you're doing and why.

[@dantelarrero3096]

Don't use the side of the wheel It could cause it to explode sending high speed shrapnel A good tool rest, adjusted properly, practice n you should be able to aquire a good cutting bit(s)

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

That's a myth. I've been using the side of the wheel for years with no problem.

[@dantelarrero3096]

So it's myth that you have just been lucky

[@mrtechie6810]

Worked as well as the drill bits I got at the local hardware store. 😞

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

ok ✅

[@glennmorgan4197]

I know why your bits are dull. Have you ever heard of cutting oil? Try it you'll like it 😊

[@Warpedsmac]

I cannot watch anymore!!!

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

Ok thanks for comment

[@petethewrist]

Cuts good when in right direction don't it

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

When the speed of rotation of an object increases then it appears to us to rotate in the opposite direction.

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

It's the same optical illusion that makes wagon wheels appear to go backward on TV screens. It's not too late to delete your embarrassing comment....

[@jeffreystroman2811]

Basicially when you turn 50 youll be able to sharpen drill bits without a guide, sums it up right fellas?

[@CMAenergy]

The first method you shown is correct, compared to the latter. The first method give a back clearance to the cutting edge The second method does not and will eventually cause heat build up in the drilling process. As the whole surface behind the cutting edge rides in the hole following the cut.

[@edeaglehouse2221]

Isn't the clearance on the trailing edge?

[@CMAenergy]

The second method does not allow for back clearance.@@edeaglehouse2221

[@johnlyons5157]

Use oil.

[@Z-add]

Easy method requires a die grinder. Which almost no one has.

[@Retiredkiwi]

Not bad, but i can get as good(or bad- i usually do) results freehand. (at 4.16 tip is not at 90degs to cutting edges).

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

When the speed of rotation of an object increases then it appears to us to rotate in the opposite direction.

[@scotsmanofnewengland7713]

Any machinist know you use cutting oil or any oil when drilling into metal.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

thanks

[@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

If you're so fooking smart, where's your drill sharpening video? Oh, that's right, you have none!

[@malsoonsakit4786]

Your grinding wheel is off-balance. Face it properly

[@David-xl9cp]

I see a lot of comments and yes, using the side of the disc is very dangerous as the wheel can shatter. Only ever use the Outer Diameter of the wheel.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

We are not applying any pressure on the side of the wheel, we are normally working on giving it a shape. Thanks for Helping Comment 😊

[@MotoFish45]

Where’s the cutting oil? Sharp bit will dull first time without oil.

[@michaelbowen3405]

Never use the side of a grinding wheel it could shatter.

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

We are not applying any pressure on the side of the wheel, we are normally working on giving it a shape. Thanks for comment

[@christopherjones8168]

Why don't you use a pilot hole and some cutting oil?

[@PaulStClair-or3gj]

This man was never a qualified turner/machinist.

[@gtrhero100]

You seem to have went through a lot of trouble to sharpen that bit.

[@deanaoxo]

Good lord, where's the drilling fluid.

[@rickss69]

Way too many rpm's on that drill press in the beginning...

[@anvilhead0]

Hope you can sharpen scissors

[@overdrive39]

you were turning the bit to fast anyway

[@audiomaster691]

how to sharpening small drill bits 1-3mm?

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

use 1st method

[@barryharrissz4748]

So what's the easy part

[@mituub]

To all the people who think the drill was turning the wrong direction. It didn't. It just looks the way if you video it and the frequency of camera shutter and the drill speed add up to make your brain "see" it turning the wrong way. Ever noticed in old Western movies the horse cart's wheels turning backwards? How could they? 😂

[@kenutton992]

At least the bit is going the right direction instead at the beginning bit ) running backwards .

[@MrAxTheBackBencherExperiment]

When the speed of rotation of an object increases then it appears to us to rotate in the opposite direction.

[@wallaceforsyth3441]

Watch the chuck not the bit. It is rotating in the correct direction. Video frame rate effect.

[@cwbutler47591]

They just think they're dealing with a bunch of morons I guess

[@cwbutler47591]

They just think they're dealing with a bunch of morons I guess

[@cwbutler47591]

They just think they're dealing with a bunch of morons I guess