ESSEX STIRLING HOT AIR ENGINE pt 2

[@phillipyannone3195]

I would start with a full disassembly, a cleaning and inspection and then applying all your knowledge of theory of operation of a hot air engine I’m quite sure you will get it running. I’m enjoying the video so far.

[@mrpete222]

That is exactly what I will do in part four

[@samdunston6296]

@@mrpete222 Thank you!

[@bcbloc02]

Looks like a complete tear down and going thru is in order. I am looking forward to seeing you getting it running like it should!

[@mrpete222]

Those are my intentions

[@0799davey67]

The look of adoration on the young man's face speaks volumes. Looking forward to pt 3.

[@timrink256]

Fun when they work. One of the most frustrating things I've ever messed with when they don't. Thanks for the video. Hang in there.

[@mrpete222]

Agreed

[@jamesspinks716]

Mr Pete, please don’t give up we’re not sick of it. I can’t speak for all your viewers but I believe we’re all willing you on.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@joeclarke9782]

This is a great watch on a cold Northern Ohio evening. Thanks for donating the 99% perspiration toward the inspiration.Maybe dab some oil on the piston. No antifreeze. Make popcorn.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@tsirron]

In regards to the lack of a blue flame. On my BBQ there is an adjustable stainless steel clip covering part of the port, to adjust the amount of air entering maybe? Something like that would work. On the coolant, I agree with the previous poster of a air lock. Thanks for showing this wonderful engine.

[@the56bear]

my frustrations with my homemade sterling engines, that mostly never worked. Please keep at it. thanks

[@mrpete222]

I have always found them to be Very finicky

[@jodydoakes8754]

Looks like gasoline is right fuel. I always used LEADED regular in my dad's blow torch and it worked fine after you got it hot enough, which wasn't easy. Thanks for the lessons on the Stirling engine.

[@100yojimbo]

Dont fully understand how these engines work but this is very intersesting. Thanks for the link to your antique engines play list

[@johnthayjr4237]

Don’t give up please love these old engines . There so cool

[@steveparker8723]

I think you're right about bubba messing with it. The fuel orifice size seems way too big. Keep going, you'll win. Thanks for more videos on this engine. I'm from central Illinois.

[@modtwentyeight]

Hi Mr. Pete: Another informative video. Please don't give up. Do what I do and walk away for a day or two and then come back to it. Works for me, and I can wait for part 3. Maybe a stupid suggestion, but maybe clean the soot out of the furnace? I like your sense of humor - scrap sheet metal? A wood saw!

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@davidmunro1469]

You have the fire in the heat reclaimer?

[@angelramos-2005]

Fascinating to me.Since I don´t have the technical knowledge I would try a mental approach:Desperation has won many battles.Thank you.

[@georgerohlfs5503]

First time I have ever committed on a video. Please don't give up on this engine

[@jamesreed6121]

I hope you don't give up on this project. It is one your more interesting videos. Also, getting old hardware like this hot air engine to work again is more than worth the effort in my opinion. You have the skill and knowledge to get the job done. So getter done! We of the older generation have to show the younger ones you don't give up if at first you don't succeed. Thanks for the video.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@nikolasgutowski5551]

Mr. Pete, I am finding this series to be very informative. I built a sterling engine a number of years ago, and it doesn't run just about as well as your Essex. (Mine is a Jan Ridders design, and I suspect my engine has a similar problem to yours, but caused by my lack of knowledge on the intricacies of making hot air engines). Your process of troubleshooting will certainly help me with tracking down what ails my engine. Thank you for posting this series.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@williamfleischer64]

Please don't give up. I would scrap the anti freeze and just use plain water until you get it running. Check and be sure the water system is free flowing. I believe temperature differential between the hot and cold side is important.

[@eggroll1up918]

I really enjoy your videos Mr. Pete. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@leov4187]

Good morning, I really like your engine videos. Very interesting stuff.

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀

[@SuperBowser87]

Learning a lot from this series. Running or not. All new to me!

[@lukeb6394]

What a beautiful piece I can't wait to see it running!!

[@scottjones7279]

At least 12 more sessions. We cannot let a machine beat us has always been my thought.

[@crazywayne7051]

First thing I noticed is you need to place the wick on the right side so that it heats up the vaporizing pocket. The second thing is the pocket for vaporization is probably filled with caramelized fuel I would remove the valve assembly and clean it out so that the fuel will get direct contact with the walls and not the goo within. Mix a couple drops of dish soap in with the lubrication oil and make the mix 50% oil and water I suspect that this air pump needs a little bit of humidity inside to create the collapse of steam back into water and expansion of water into steam. I would prime it with a couple drops of water and assemble. Make sure that the upper valve to the oil burner feed tank is completely open as the head pressure is necessary once the fuel is at temperature for vaporization then you should be getting a blue flame if not I suspect that the orifice may need to be drilled and tapped in a smaller jet installed until proper flame is achieved but I suspect the moisture will get it spinning in the current condition. And when you're preheating it make sure that the piston on the water tank side is completely within it s cooling cylinder when the preheating process is happening or that piston will be too hot to condense the atmosphere within the chamber. So it most likely will never start without the condensing piston inside the water jacket prior to attempting to start I believe this piston must be in the chilling cylinder as much as possible prior to starting.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you for a very good suggestions

[@hughdanaher2758]

keep at it. I like videos that fix, build or break things, then explain why.

[@jonbush9533]

I was so hoping to see it run!!! 1. You're right, the burner flame should be blue and sound like a mini-blow torch, 2. as a few people noted below, did something nest inside the annular space thus causing all the smoke, 3. that bubba repair has got to be fixed... though the cast iron part of the piston seems to seal well, the drag has got to be causing problems, 4. looking forward to the cooling problem fix in vid 3. Don't get too discouraged, I spent 30 yrs troubleshooting equipment that Bubba got a hold of ... great satisfaction from figuring out why it wasn't working. Good luck!

[@Gary.7920]

Mr. Pete, I really want to see you master the little beast. Really enjoying the series. Gary 78-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in the Beautiful Ozark Mountains of Northwest Arkqansas

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@darrenshepherd3984]

I know you already done the next vid but pls don't give up.im learning tons and I wish I could help. Respect Mr Pete.

[@mikejohnson7181]

Mr. Pete, I really enjoyed this video, with you going thru the troubleshooting step by step. It is very interesting to me. I hope you get it running!

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@mikejohnson7181]

After looking at the Essex hot air engine on youtube presented by Woody Sins, it looks like the engine you bought has been severly modified by Bubba. With your expertise in molding and machining, it would be fun and very interesting to see you return it to it's original form. But I truly understand if it would be too time consuming. Have been watching your videos for a long time, and you've cost me a lot of money. :) buying mill, surface grinder, press, etc.

[@mrpete222]

lol

[@peterwatts4163]

Greetings from England. If my experience with Primus Stoves and Tilley Lmps (Coleman Lanterns?) is anything to go by, if the burner is shooting liquid kerosene, the it isn't hot enough. Furthermore, the liquid fuel going through it will cool it down further. Also, make sure that the jet orifice in the burner is pricked out. Use a wire of the same size as the jet for this process, not a pin or needle, or the jet will be spoiled. Try filling the pre-heater bowl with alcohol, light it and let it burn out, then fill it and light it again. Before it has burn out, and while there is still a decent flame, open up the main burner valve. This procedure usually worked for me with the aforementioned appliances.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍 Beans? I like beans.

[@ElectronPower]

Try placing wet towel on cooling fins (press it tightly in between the fins and keep the towel soaking wet), maybe it doesn't have enough of a temperature difference between hot and cold side or maybe it's just warming up so slowly that the cold side heats up together with the hot side. Also, have the piston positioned so, that it's in the cold part of the chamber untill it's "hot enough to run" (that should help keep the cold side cold). If the towel method works, maybe it could be replaced with an electric fan, (or maybe even a stirling engine driven fan). Maybe you can also give hot side a little bit of help with a blowtorch. I really hope you won't get too discouraged as I really like seeing your engines run and each one is unique in its own way. Good luck!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@delanebaumchen5608]

You just have to get this running. The suspense is killing me. I’m not even sure I can sleep tonight. Don’t let it beat you.😁

[@jjjkjk9006]

Hello dear mrpete. Thank you a lot for making these lovely and truly informative videos. Dear mepete i know that it takes a lot of time and effort to make one and thank you millions and millions of times for keep making them. Thank you the best ever shop teacher🌹🌹

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very very much for a lovely comment

[@jjjkjk9006]

@@mrpete222 🌹🌹🌹💐💐💐🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

[@resiggy13]

I've built several Stirling Cycle engines over the years and they are always finicky to get running. First and foremost, you must get 2 things correct - 1) no air leaks at all, and 2) mechanisms must be absolutely free running with no binding anywhere. These engines run off of the pressure differential generated by heated and cooled air. As such they produce very little power and so can't overcome the leaks and binds. Looks like you may have solved the air leak and I can't tell how free running the mechanisms are - they appear to be fairly free in the video but hard to tell without begin there myself. But, one tip that I think may come in handy is that I think you're putting too much heat into the system. The fact that your cold end is so hot that you can't touch it is key. Try a much smaller flame and see if that gets you anywhere. In the engines I've built, which are probably smaller than what you're showing, a small wax tealight candle is all that is needed to get them running - just enough heat to cause a pressure differential in the air but not too much heat to overpower the cooling capacity of the cold end. BTW, I'm going to hazard a guess and say that tin can looking piece on the end of the hot end piston is probably there to help displace air from over the flame during the vacuum stroke. Between that and the cold end displacer nearly all of the air volume should be pushed into the cooling jacket, which is absolutely what you want to have happen. Hope you figure it out - good luck.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you for an insightful comment from Another engine builder. I am going to take the entire engine apart

[@beaverc2884]

For the last several days I have done some reading and watched a lot of videos. And it is a big Yes you can NOT have any air leaks, and yours is the only one I have seen with an oiler I bet it was added to help seal it. On a good condition engine it doesn't take very much heat to get them going. I would really start with trying to replace or repair the brass part of the piston.

[@jimmyb1451]

I'm glad you haven't given up on this one just yet. Really would like to see it run. I wonder if it's worth slapping a bit of metal putty on that piston and turning/sanding it back to round? It does seem to have a good seal I'm just questioning whether perhaps the seal is breaking at the end of stroke? Hope it'll run for you! I'll be waiting to see.

[@tombellus8986]

Check the water lines for blockage

[@brucetuckey7909]

Another thought to your burner problem Mr. Pete is that the valve under the fuel tank should be open the whole way to get the head pressure at the nozzle, Then if there is not a vent hole in the cap the tank can pull a vacuum lowering the head pressure. Just a thought.

[@kenscott4779]

I'm glad you haven't given up on this one

[@danedewaard8215]

Mrs. Pete must love the odors coming from the science lab!!!!

[@stevebosun7410]

Hi Mr Pete, as you say, the quality and design detail are amazing, considering it's essentially a toy, or demonstration piece. Even if the cooling water isn't flowing, I might have expected some motion until the temperature differential got too small. To check for leaks, why not put some air in through the oiler and go round it with some soapy water. Also, that orifice sounds quite large compared to those of Primus and Coleman stoves which operate on the same principle. Good luck, I hope you discover the problem.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@kingofhearts826]

Thanks for risking sharing your process with us! This is how I learn also With Model A and T Fords.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@jozefa1234]

Try to keep turning the flywheel fora few turns so the internal pressure kan normalise, or start with te piston complete out to warm the air inside, i love your videos. it seems to be a total revision at the end. good luck

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@richardmorton1310]

Love your vacuum testing apparatus!

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@P61guy61]

Awesome video! Thank you for posting. My only complaint is you don’t do a video every day for my FREE subscription hahaha. I really appreciate what you do. I travel half the month and don’t have time for my own projects. Having your content to watch in a stark hotel room is really a treat. Thanks again.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍 That’s exactly what I do when I am in a hotel room. Period

[@machinistwanttobebrianfrom6887]

Brian from Ma.One of my thoughts was is the viscosity of antifreeze to thick anywho Besafe

[@evil16v1]

#57 sounds huge for that tiny engine. I know nothing about sterling, but have jetted a couple v8 carburetors in my day

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video.

[@trialnterror]

Lyle, where they put that brass sleeve do you think that there is a leak between the sleeve and cylinder? I think it’s time for a rebuild? What if you put a fan on the cool side or ice to cool that side down to see if that helps? I’m really throwing my bets on the banged up cylinder walls !

[@evil16v1]

I think its the bubba damage as well

[@mrpete222]

I think you are right

[@frenchcreekvalley]

I'd get rid of the antifreeze and go with clean water to transfer more heat, at least while you troubleshoot. You might also try cooling the displacer end with "garden hose" cold water so you are certain that that end is being cooled. Could there be a lot of corrosion in the cooling water lines?

[@paulhunt598]

I hope that you will stay at too. I hope someone with more Essex experience will join the comments and help Lyle down his troubleshooting road.

[@brucetuckey7909]

Good morning Mr. Pete, I have a guess about the burner and there is either carbon build up in it or a flying critter built a nest in there causing poor air flow in the furnace. A good cleaning is all that should be needed. What make me think that is seeing glowing embers in the furnace. my guess to the brass liner is like you already said is burn out repair.

[@thereve]

Just a thought to try and temporarily get it to run - the next time you get it hotted up, try spraying some water on the cold side with an old windex bottle or whatever is at hand. Until you can get the cooling sorted out at least. Gotta have that delta T.

[@mrpete222]

Good idea

[@timdiehn6276]

To eliminate unknowns about the water tank circulation, grab your winterized garden hose and run cold tap water through the water jacket, for now.

[@crr8297]

Hi Mr Pete, I'm not an expert but I can think of 2 things that might be wrong, if your needle valve is leaking that means air is getting into the mix and you are getting the yellow flame, maybe you need to put some packing around the stem to stop the leak, I think the flame should be blue. Regarding the water flow, maybe there is an air bubble in the system, you know how that can happen with a car radiator, maybe you need to find a way to bleed the air out of that cooling system. Hope that helps and I hope you continue to persevere, you can do it!

[@mrpete222]

Thank you for the suggestion and encouragement

[@santee6399]

Perhaps the grove in the flywheel is for a rope pull for more speed to help starting? I'm just guessing. It's fun watching you troubleshoot

[@theradarguy]

Have you thought about putting a cold wet rag around the displacer?

[@ralphf8951]

Nice video, good luck with it.

[@joehall3459]

Have built several hot air motors. No air leaks and no friction and it will run. Try some ice water to amplify the heat differential.

[@bencartee2113]

A jewel in the rough. It is begging for a full restore. Perhaps a collaboration?

[@andreblanchard8315]

The extension on the piston is to take up volume so there is not so much air to heat an cool. That way they can get the sealing area of the piston a distance away from the hot parts. Related is the cooling fins around the piston, need to keep that cool enough so the lube oil does not smoke. Any leaks in that piston extension or the displacer will stop the engine.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@richardcorcoran1151]

Would an ice pack keep the heat at bay in the cylinder?

[@TheJohndeere466]

Im just wondering if you mixed the antifreeze and water before you poured it into the tank. I know some tractors have a syphon feed cooling system like that and on those you have to mix the antifreeze and water before you pour it in or it wont circulate. The reason is water and antifreeze has a different weight so the heavier just goes to the bottom and the lighter to the top. If you mix it first then the weight is all the same and it will circulate.

[@bestfriendhank1424]

Where does one hook up an electronic fault computer up to that motor?

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Hi Mr Pete i found this video and shows all types of hot air engines even one like yours .JM ( Hot Air Engines galore at Greenville 2021 ) Just put in KZbin search hope this gets you going for round 3.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you, I will watch that video

[@TagsGarageAZ]

Have you tried to use just your hand held torch to heat it up and see if it runs that way? At least at that point you can either eliminate the engine or the heat supply

[@rogertaylor1589]

How about a bit of high temp grease on the piston to see if it creates a temporary seal?

[@christopheruy6398]

Good Evening, Mr Tubalcain. Thank you for the videos you post. I must admit that this is the very first time I will comment in any platform. His is due to the fact that I may be able to add a little information to your puzzle. In a small way hoping to repay the many insights that you give whenever you post. I looked at the Replica Essex engine posted by Myfordboy. I went back to his build to find out the differences if there was any. Essentially it is the same engine There is a difference in the size of the water jacket. The engine that you have is much larger encompassing almost the whole displaced section. The replica engine only occupying only a portion of that section. The middle portion is different as yours has a chimney. Though it may seem that it was possible and intended to place one in the replica as well. It seems that engine you have was designed ( original or modified ) to work at higher temperatures. The chimney will make the lower chamber hotter. Since you mentioned that a specified temperature - when the difference between the hot and cold is at minimum it will stop. So the bigger water jacket is there to address threaded heat of the chimney. It could be said that the temperature where the engine will no longer work will be attained much faster with the hotter environment due to the chimney. This makes the cooling part (water jacket ) very important. It should be doing its job. The other part that is noticeable is piston. The extended brass section is intended - although the use of brass as material is not clear since your engine is older. There is a liner as well. Although the placement of the liner in your engine is further inside and seems to be contacting the the extended part of the piston. In the build it seems that the liner is placed closer to the rear so that it will have interplay with the rear of the piston ( non brass ). Closer or at the edge were the mounting screws of the pulley and flywheel assembly. This is an issue - if the sleeve is contacting the extended part of the piston assembly there will be less air to displace. So there will be less gas to expand and contract. The other issue is the oil dispenser. I noticed that there was oil at the sight glass at the beginning and there none at the end. It would be convenient to have a reserve but if it kept on dripping and not recirculated then it would be a waste. If the oil reserve is below the lining and is above the section of the main piston body( at the rear ) it will explain the loss since the piston has more space to move since it is not contacting the liner. It will also explain partially the reason that the engine seemed to have a better chance at the beginning than at the end. Since there will be less oil to cover the piston to make a temporary seal. The identation on the brass extended portion of the piston assembly seems to be an attempt to fix a poor fit. The lining may have moved forward down the line and could have been assumed to be the place that it was supposed to be. It is always interesting to see how puzzles could be solved. I am sad that you have less interest on your stirling engines that you made. I hope it goes to a place it will be treasured as much as the joy that it gave you in making it. I hope this helps. You can review the build at Myfordboy to confirm the observation. I do hope you get it to work. It would be difficult to think that it would be thrown. My thanks again for all the times you posted. I am sorry for the long post. My thanks again.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very much for the insightful comments. You seem to be very knowledgeable and observant. There is a third part of this video coming out next Saturday. I made these three videos several months ago. And hope to get back to it soon. I plan on disassembling the entire engine. Keep watching.

[@rogertaylor1589]

The flame out the top stack might indicate a crack in the firebox?

[@drbahb1]

I think that the coolant system is not working. Perhaps a plugged pipe preventing the coolant fluid from circulating.

[@peterwatts4163]

Further to my previous comment - if there is no circulation in the cooling system, it seems to me that it can only be because the pipes are blocked up. Corrosion, possibly? Maybe new pipes are needed?

[@millomweb]

The improvement I noticed is that when you turned it off - no smoke !

[@bcwrangler]

Does your fuel tank need a vent to help the flow?

[@4SafetyTraining]

Don’t give up…but if you do I would love the chance to get running….

[@kevinmartin7760]

That brass extension on the piston seems to be there only to use up space; it does not need to be a close (sealing) fit in the cylinder. This effectively eliminates "dead" fluid (gas) in the cylinder which does not travel between the hot and cold sections, and so is instead wasteful thermal mass. When the power piston is at its innermost position there should be no cylinder volume to the right of the hot zone, and perhaps the hot zone should even be covered a bit. This allows the piston rings to be kept further from the hot zone so their lubrication does not degrade so quickly. I would also say the cold end is way too hot.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@robertmercersr3075]

I think I would see if I could get the stack off and see inside the furnace.

[@xenith0351]

I thunk maybe a slight miss timing between the displacer and the hot piston is what is going on here in most of the try's to run it kicks back at the last instance before it would tick over top dead center . Keep up the good work

[@mrpete222]

I will check the Timing. I am not sure there is an adjustment for that

[@tropifiori]

The orifice over the needle valve in the horizontal tube you pre heated works via Bernoulli’s law. If someone made the orifice larger this would change the air fuel ratio. You could partly occlude some of that orifice to adjust air fuel ratio. This may not be the issue- gust a thought

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@RichieCat4223]

7:50 Looks like a wet fuel problem. I could see if it was wood and a creosol fire. 13:14 Mr. Pete you have to repair this engine !

[@dzrdr65]

Just an old diesel fitter, no experience with air engine's but from following you if it were mine I believe I would check for a restriction at the cooling circuit. Natural convection would draw heat up the fluid pipe. But I would think like any engine there is a certain temp it want's to be at. Run a gas or diesel engine without a thermostat and performance suffers. That requires cooling at the reaction end of the piston to create bounce. Correct? Past that UNBUBA it. But that would mean having spec's on it Good luck

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@panaviaman]

I think you already described the faults, you just need to strip down and analyse the engine as you put back together, we love doing this, if it was easy it would be boring, good luck.

[@mrpete222]

I intend to take it apart in part four

[@verdantpulse5185]

Try a mix of unleaded gasoline and denatured alcohol for the fuel. Say an ounce of alcohol per pint of gas. The alcohol helps the gas burn cleaner and seems to help it spray finer. Sounds like the coolant's not flowing. Try running with hosed through water temporarily, to isolate cooling problems from engine problems.

[@sys2]

My first thought is that the displacer is to tight ? it should only displace air between hot and cold part and not move the power piston if you move it by hand ? or am i wrong here? =)

[@gordoneckler4537]

You need to put some light oil in the oiler and put the oiler back on the cylinder and start a drop of oil into the cylinder. The oil will form a seal around the piston and complete the sealed chamber. It may run.

[@cns688]

I think I may have an answer for you, if the pipes to the water tank / cylinder are reversed it would allow the hot water enter the top of the cylinder this would push the cold water out of the bottom allowing the water to cycle. In standard plumbing I would fit a small pressure vessel at the top with for example 2 bar pressure, this would allow for safety in the event that the cylinder would overheat. Food for thought I could not think of much else today also give the pump about an hour to achieve temperature.

[@johnwyman6126]

You didn't mention it so I'm just asking, is the coolant above the level of the top pipe coming into the radiator? As I'm sure you know it must be in order for the thermosiphon to work. If it is, then I wonder if one of the pipes is plugged? Nice little benchtop Stirling by the way, I'm a bit jealous. I wonder if the denatured alcohol would vaporize better?

[@kabinvideo7495]

Hi Mr Pete there should not be a flame in the aperture by the needle valve it should only burn vin the furnace part that’s why the heat is not in the right place

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@lindasalyers7181]

hey wonder if you could help me identify a lathe that I have just aquired

[@mrpete222]

Send a picture [e-mail]

[@Proverbhouse]

Get the cooling side to cool. The temperature differences is what makes it work. When it is all the same temp it will not run I would stay with white gas.

[@randallthomas5207]

Try putting an ice pack on the cold side. That would immediately bring down he temp on that side, and increase the difference between the two sides. the might be want it needs to get started.

[@jimc4731]

Thinking more on this, wondering if you are getting enough fuel to the burner? Could that beautiful brass cap have a blocked vent hole? Could that main fuel shutoff that you said needs repair have something internal that is blocking the flow of fuel, such as misplaced packing material or broken gasket/washer? Keep digging, we are counting on you! Check out the burner on one of your old blow torches. JIM

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@scottjones7279]

Let's first take completely apart to clean and inspect

[@mrpete222]

Thank you, I intend to do that in part four

[@sd906238]

You need a good source for hot air. Any politician is a good source for hot air.

[@douglasbollinger8678]

With Coleman pressure lanterns, the orifice size in the generator tip is usually around .006-.007 depending on if it's a white gas or kero model. The big difference will be fount pressure which is probably around 20 PSI depending on how good a thumb you have. That is way more than you will get on this gravity-fed burner contraption.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Hi Mr Pete I do not know anything about these engines it seems to me that the needle jet seems l too large I wonder if you added two more feet of tubing to the fuel tank if that would help with that problem also I wonder if you have an air pocket in the cooling system it seems to me if that had any air in it it would not work properly you might have to backfill the heat exchanger . Well good luck Mr Pete maybe she needs rebuilding thanks JM

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@seksak5176]

I have no experience with hot air engines. And this likely won't help get it running but for a thermosiphon to work, there can't be any air in the water system. Fill the tank until the top pipe is submerged. Then tilt the machine a bit to burp out any trapped air. Then it will do it's heat transfer work.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks