Muzzleloader Accuracy: Ball, Patch and Patch Lube

[@billmiller7613]

I enjoy seeing Jake on the videos 🙂

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

He likes being in them. Thanks for watching.

[@lifebiker105]

Just watching some of the older videos Uncle Sasquatch I really enjoy you teaching us about the muzzleloaders I've only got two there the inline kind but but as far as load and things like that I still pay attention thank you thank you very much Uncle Sasquatch I really do enjoy your videos

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks for watching!

[@searun1418]

You did a great job explaining things. Appreciate it!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

You bet! Thanks for watching.

[@roberttolley2293]

Thank you, I'm getting it narrowed down! Unc, just starting, trying to learn! Thank you for tips!

[@Newtire]

Thanks for taking the time & effort to make your films & put them out there for everyone.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

+Newtire You are welcomed!

[@UncaBill1]

Thanks, Unc! I dropped in on this older vid just to add a little from experience. To get accuracy you need to work up a load from a bench rest. For example, a .50 cal flinter may want a .490 ball or a tighter .495 ball. Swaged balls are better than cast balls. If using cast balls be sure to place the sprue cut-off pointing up and out of the barrel. Patching is also trial and error. Every thickness from 0.010 to 0.020 may work best for you. The tighter the patch upon loading the better, up to a point - that way you know you have engaged the rifling. If you work up a good accurate load with a certain kind and thickness of cotton cloth then get a lot more of that cloth. Wash it clean. My best cloth was a 0.017 pillow ticking with flowers printed on it. I bought 2 yds of it and then they went out of business. Next best was a 0.017 blue striped pillow ticking , but it was not quite so good as the flowers kind. Powder granulation depends a lot. Some .50s like FFG and some like FFFG. I t gets involved making all the different possible combinations, but you will find a load that works best and stick with it!Lube. If you are going to shoot a lot in a row at the bench or a shoot use a lighter liquid patch lube, like Ol' Thunder or such. Swab the barrel often and dry it. If hunting in the cold do not use a fat, lard or grease based lube. It may freeze and gum up.Some say a flinter needs freshening after 3,000 rounds or so. Nope. as long as you keep it clean and use a muzzle protector when loading, your rifling should last past you bequeath or give the rifle to a deserving shooter.My opinions. I'm sure someone can add or subtract with better info, but this is about 49 years of experience from dangerous 1960's Italian flintlocks, to good guns from Dixie, TVA and TVM, to the best you can find today.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks UncaBill! All those tips are spot on! Truth is, you probably know more about it than me!! And thanks for the comment!

[@308dad8]

What’s dangerous about ‘60’s Italian import flintlocks?

[@jimpokorny4598]

Well your videos come in handy even a 7 yr old one. Thank You sir for the info, keep out of the hot sun.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

You can bet I will..Thanks for watching!

[@rickyburton4642]

Nothing beats wisdom!

[@ryandimen8570]

Patch lube 1part water soluble cutting fluid to 1 part bug wash (windshield washer fluid) or water

[@spazyfresh]

Great stuff Uncle S. I had a 50cal i hunted with and was always charing up my patches and I never did find out why, til now.

[@roberttolley2293]

and thank you, and you tube. amazing gift to learn,and meet people you'd never meet any out her way.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

True statement!

[@rickyburton4642]

Thanks again Lonnie! 😃👍👍🇺🇸

[@eqlzr2]

I'm too new at this to understand if your advice is good, but I enjoyed the video and will keep the info in mind. Many thanks.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

+eqlzr2 Thank ye kindly for watching. The advice given is what I have read and learned over the years.

[@chasetheoutdoors7469]

Thank you so much sir this has helped me a lot with my flintlock

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I'm glad it did. Thanks for watching.

[@cwby1978]

Great video Happy New Year 🎊

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thank you for watching.

[@jjmont61]

Thanks! I've been using both .490 and .495 balls with .013-.015 patches in my TC PA Hunter for years with 80g of 3F , but groups averaged 4-6 inches at 50 yds. Haven't taken a deer with it yet, mostly because I'm a casual hunter and maybe my last clear shot was on a pretty drizzly wet fall day. I'll try lowering the powder charge.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

It may help. 80 grains is a lot of powder for a round ball in a 50.

[@jjmont61]

@@UncleSasquatchOutdoors Well, I've been dealing with 5-6" groups with my TC PA Hunter flintlock and 4-7" groups with my (son's when he was young) Tradition youth hunter percussion 50 cal. with a 24" barrel and a stock which I extended. Both are shot with a PRB. My brother twisted my arm to go muzzleloader hunting up in NH on our family land, and I wasn't about to use one one his inlines. Finally had incentive to work on loads for my trads. Long story short, you were right! I dropped the charge to 70 and 60 gr. of 3F Swiss (with .490 balls and a.010 patch) respectively and have found some hope after 20 years of fiddling around. At 50yds. the TC had a 4 shot string almost touching, the Traditions was around 5"...which is good enough for me since I'm limiting my range to that. Hope those loads are adequate for NH deer. Thanks again!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

@@jjmont61 That's great. Swiss is typically hotter than GOEX or Schutzen.

[@henryvandervort9891]

Haven't shot my 50 cal in over 20 + yrs cleaned and in spected her yesterday. Will shoot some round ball and conical out of her,I will pay attention to the patches on the round ball . Great info thanks

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks for watching!

[@stevenrobinson1379]

Good information!,I use Garia D to swab my patches! It's a Shell product that is water soluibile! I don't mix water with it !

[@outdoorsadrenaline]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I just found your page today as I was studying up on KZbin. I just got my first ever muzzle loader and am trying to learn the do’s and dont’s before our black powder deer season gets here. The gun i opted for is an inline .50 cal 1:28 pistol with a 14” barrel. I thought to consider using a patch and round ball after seeing the costs of using a sabot or similar style bullets that are recommended. In your experience and knowledge would I just be spinning my wheels and or risk damaging the rifling on my barrel with a patch and round ball? What do you suggest? Thanks for your time!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

1:28 is too fast for patched round ball. It wouldn't damage your rifling. You might try some pure lead conicals. Thompson/Center did make (at least a couple years ago) some economy lead conicals. I have never experimented with inlines but I usually just apply what I know about traditional ones when giving people advice. Thanks for subscribing and watching the videos.

[@outdoorsadrenaline]

@@UncleSasquatchOutdoors thank you I’ll look into those!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

@@outdoorsadrenaline I hope it works for you.

[@Hambone_777]

Great stuff Squatch...very informative!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks!

[@roberttolley5055]

Uncle, I finally found canal fulton ram rod club. I went and my aluminum 12 gauge rod with thick patches jag seized in bottom barrel. Then pulled handle off. Was like taking a 18 year old first time lol. Went to log cabbin bought brass ram rod , jag with steel threads. Got spair nipples, patches, that will fit true black powder. . So happy to find a club. Wanted to find a club for 20 years, was a hoot! I shot off hand as lousy as could be!!!! Any tip for this type of shooting????? Great video

[@joesbarbecue1]

If you're still around your big footed hairyness, maybe you can lend a hand. I recently bought a new Pedersoli hawken FR-3510 in .50 cal. I cast my own RB's from pure lead at .490. I have tried mink paste for lube, spit patching, as well as water/Dawn, and or simple green combos. Everywhere folks say to use a .018 pillow ticking patch. In order to stuff that down the barrel, I'm apt to shatter the bones in my palm with a short starter, on have to use a dead blow rubber mallet. I've measured my RB's and patches with a digital caliper all along the way. I've tried some pure cotton materials @ .015. Still a struggle. I found some stuff at walmarts fabric section that came in at .013. Trying to dial in my rifle and loads, I'm still gonna break my hand or have to use the mallet. I see people using the .490 and .018 patch all day long on the yootubes, and no one uses the force I need to to get a ball and patch down the barrel. There's no way I can get this thing sighted in properly until I can find a patch I can start comfortably. I've been making my own BP for a few years. I've tried cottonwood, hemp, and recently gave TP a go. I was able to load some today using some .009 cotton felt, but the patches I found in the field weren't real impressive, ( I'm only using 50 grains) and I still had to use excessive force to get the rifle to swallow the pill. I do swab inbetween loads as well. I don't know, and I don't get it. Maybe my first hand stuffer was a bad choice, or a defect.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

It shouldn't be that hard to load. It almost seems like the bore is too small. Only way to tell is measure the bore and see.

[@308dad8]

Yep. Different barrels have different groove diameters for the same caliber

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Generally the slower the twist, the deeper the groove diameter.

[@roberttolley2293]

unc, I swabbed that barrel with white patch and q tips, every thing white, that alcohol, Murphy's oil soap, peroxide, got to get a nylon brush having hard time finding one.

[@karlt8233]

Peroxide is not necessary. Plain hot water and Murphy's Oil Soap or hot water and Ballistol works great for cleaning. At the range I use water/Ballistol to swab after a few shots and before heading home. Prior to shooting I swab bore dry with a Denatured Alcohol patch and flush the chamber n bolster with a couple ounces to clear any Ballistol away.

[@gregs5295]

Great advice

[@brianvincavage9273]

thx!!!..just finished long rifle..rice barrel..0.15 patch wasn't accurate..0.18 wasn't eighther..0.12 was. I didn't k ow about burnt patches..going up now to look in snow..lol

[@robocox9mil882]

Great info. Your dogs about to eat that lead up though lol

[@kluper1157]

Try some Bumbling Bear Grease Lube from October county Muzzle Loading supplies Here in Idaho dose not freeze in cold weather!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks!

[@CEO4207575]

I like watching your videos 👍. You have very good information.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks for watching.

[@CEO4207575]

@@UncleSasquatchOutdoors my pleasure uncle. You have such a cute and sweet dog as well. Adorable. 👍

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

@@CEO4207575 He's my buddy. He's in most of the videos even if you don't see him. He's laying in my lap if you don't him.

[@larrycooper5388]

Great video, I always like your videos.

[@bfdadventure]

Nicely explained.

[@roberttolley2293]

unc, going to log cabin. to get low down to how to clean dry remove water, and store muzzle loader correct way, birch wood Casey. 2 products

[@jmartin9059]

What he says is 'good'.... As a Former competition muzzleloader shooter I can offer additional advice on proper patch and ball fit ... If it is possible to recover the patches and be certain to collect the one which one you just fired last.... Fetch the patch "and read it"... NO, there will not be words and letters... "just signs and condition"... Ideally the grooves should leave clearly visible gray or black marks "with no holes in patch" and NO ripped or burned through marks . .................... A 'ripped' through patch is "too tight" "too thick" so use thinner patch or smaller ball and try again.... .A patch with few or no rifling marks or 'burned through holes 'is too loose or too thin ..so use a thicker patch or larger ball. You may also be able to "feel" a difference when ramming ball into barrel especially when patch is dry... You should not need to use great force to shove it in there... Nor should it just slide in effortlessly... The feel with proper fit is usually "a minimal effort". Using this Marksman's "read the patch method" can result in match winning accuracy. His Shoot a group and gauge the results method "may" have the same effect by firing 3 to 50 times as many balls to discover the patch and ball combination that shoots well... Once the proper patch and ball thickness is discovered "Buttered patches" with bore butter, mutton tallow, Crisco, Ballistol mixed with water...or spit soaked patches may improve accuracy and reduce fouling. My preference in a .40 caliber flint lock was a .390 ball and pillow ticking... A .390" or.395" ball and denim was used by some other shooters.... For a common 50 caliber a good place to start would be .490" or .495" ball with denim or pillow ticking... Generally Ball should be 0.005" to 0.0010" smaller than bore with pillow ticking or denim patches... I prefer a "thick patch" because the thin cotton patches "tear or rip" too easily... As a boy. I often came in 2nd or 3rd in Rendezvous Shooting Matches while competing with men. I used "undersized balls" ** 0.010" under bore diameter** and thick patches. The aforementioned method is the one I used..... I also cut 'or tore' my pillow ticking into strips about 1.5 to 2 " wide and rolled it up tightly "like tape". When ready to load ....I would simply add measured amount of FFFg {3F} powder... place end of pillow ticking patch material over bore...Place the pure cast lead ball "sprew flat up" where the ramrod would create a flat spot anyway... {this way my ball had One flat spot rather than two... And push ball in with hand and "ball starter tool" .. with ball just below flush with muzzle use patch knife to cut patch loose from roll... then push ball home and make sure it goes all of the way home. My rod was marked as a seating guide.... Followed by a pinch of FFFFg {4F} in the flash pan. EXCESS patch material in front of ball can spoil accuracy ... and balls not seated tightly on top of powder charge creating too much air under ball.... can blow up a barrel... AHA ! Next time, "load to win". Patch and ball can outshoot sabot rounds and is way cheaper. For the ball Pure lead or up to Wheel Weight alloy will work and work very well... At Rendezvous, once... "Just for fun" one of the guys shot some Brass Balls and Aluminum Balls. The brass were ok but the aluminum were a complete failure... They were just too light to fly strait. Brass or Copper balls/bullets might be worth considering in a NON-toxic Lead-Free bullet required state or area. For hunting ... some guys use a reduced powder charge and two or three round balls with thick patches.... They do "fly slower" and hit somewhat like large buckshot.... Two or three holes can be better than one... This works well with a .32 , .36 or .40 cal. I have not tried this with a .50 caliber yet....but, "if I do" I will start with two .490" balls since they weight about 180 grains each...

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thank ye kindly for your comment. Good advice!

[@cesarsalazar2409]

I think he covered all that. Go piss on someone elses rainbow 🌈 sunshine.

[@1212blaze]

What is the typical distance you find your patches? As I'm new to this. Love the videos. Thanks.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Usually inside of then yards. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@toddsanford7757]

awesome video, i always wanted an uncle sasquatch. i just got a inline loader but it says i can shoot balls. ive been spit lubin , but heard a bit of vasoline can work too. is this ok?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I would stay away from petroleum products like vasoline. Just makes a big mess and will gum up your bore. Good luck with your new gun. Thank for watching.

[@toddsanford7757]

i decided to make bore butter out of olive oil and beeswax @@UncleSasquatchOutdoors

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

@@toddsanford7757 That should work okay

[@ppha7665]

Have u ever used Hornady's PA conical muzzleloading bullet? It's a lead conical, would u use a wad between the bullet and the powder charge?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

P Pha I have some of those but I have not fired any ot them. They are designed for easy loading; like minie' ball. They are not designed for a patch or wad between the charge and bullet. They have a hollow base that expands to fill the rifling upon ignition.

[@karlt8233]

PA Conicals shoot pretty good in my TC Hawken .50 with a 1:48" twist barrel. Just don't try an hot rod them with heavy charges or it can blow the skirt out resulting in poor accuracy and barrel leading.

[@matthewlyness9692]

I just got a 54 caliber hawken 1-48 twist rifle what size patch should I use .15 or a .18 I will be using a .530 round ball thanks I love your videos

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Congratulations! I'd start with .15 and see how it shoots. I think with a .530 an .18 would be better..just a little harder to load and you will probably need to swab between shots more. It depends on how quickly your gun fouls. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@roberttolley2293]

unc, can you over lube patches and foul barrel, from shot one on. making every ball hard to push down barrel? thank you for your time.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I can see that over lubing could cause it. Try cleaning the barrel with almost boiling water and let it sit til you can handle the barrel. Clean and dry the barrel a put just a hint of Bore Butter on a patch and swab the bore. This seasons the barrel like seasoning a cast iron skillet. If that doesn't help, try a thinner patch. What diameter ball are you using?

[@johnndavis7647]

Petroleum lubes will cause hard fouling.

[@silvermediastudio]

Yeah don't over do it with lube. I like 60/40 beeswax to olive oil. Keeps the fouling soft, you don't have to clean it often and when you do it's easy, Dawn and warm water scrubs it right out.

[@357bullfrog]

I've got a problem In me Sasquatch. A day or so ago I shot my little 40 calibre long rifle and all of a sudden I couldn't hit anything at 25 yards. I had it sighted in plum center and the only thing I can think of is I used a different patch lube. I used bees wax and hog lard at a 50/50 mix. Would that do it? Plus today I found a patch at about 10 yards and it was blacker than Luther's boots and smoking. You got any ideas ? Today I used the same pillow ticking greased with sin hog lard.

[@gavindixon7747]

Interesting because i recently used beeswax to lube minie balls and my accuracy greatly decreased.

[@357bullfrog]

gavin dixon there must be something about that mix that just don't work as a patch lube. I hear it's good for cartridges tho. I'm sticking with good ol hog lard

[@karlt8233]

Hope you figured it out by now but I never had much luck with lard based lubes. I always found beef or lambs tallow and geese wax gave me better results but I have also used beesewax and mink oil or olive oil with good results to.

[@silvermediastudio]

@@gavindixon7747 try 60/40 beeswax and olive oil. It's perfect. Keeps the fouling soft you'll almost never have to swab even after a day of shootin'

[@whisperingdeath308]

I've been shootin' .440 ball with a .015 patch using a 60 gr. Load. If i'm lucky enough to find a patch its usually smokin'. Is this a bad thing even though i'm gettin' good accuracy? If not should i back off my load?

[@johnndavis7647]

If you mean smok8ng as on fire its not a good thing. Patch is too dry Or your lube could have some petroleum in it. Not a good thing. Try using olive or peanut oil for patch lube. Just enough to saturate the patch. Dont prelube too many at a time. Over time any oil or fat can oxidize and turn rancid and this can weaken the fabric of your patches. After about a month throw out any unused prelubed patches and make up some new ones.

[@colmhain]

Could you please do a video on diagnosing patches after shooting?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I will put that on my list!

[@timsterrett2417]

I just bought a 50 TC Hawkins,I went to a shoot,and my patches were on fire burning up.only using 50 grain of goex,and prelubed bore butter patches 015 thick,490 ball,and had slot of Dowling I will not use bore butter anymore.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Sounds more like cheap patches than the bore butter. I don't recall every having patches do that.

[@timsterrett2417]

Yea no one else seen that either,there that prelubed store bought,I'm going to try making my own,I haven't had much time with this rifle yet.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Tim Sterrett try buying dry, pre-cut patches lubing then with bore butter from the tube. Or perhaps try some of Track of the Wolf Pure Mink Oil.

[@timsterrett2417]

Uncle Sasquatch I would like to make my own patches,and own lube,I have used bore butter alot and I'm just not impressed, I need to change all that,most shooters I shoot with don't have to clean barrel through the match,and I don't see them using bore butter that I know of,I've seen alot of self made up lubes,for some reason this barrel won't to fool out half way through the shoot,but thanks for the advice.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

You can do the old school method of using pillow ticking which will require you to use a patch knife to trim after the ball is short started. You could make your own lube using beeswax and tallow. I thank you for watching my video and for your comments. Keep yer powder dry!

[@outdoorswithroostercurrie6984]

Can you shoot roundballs out of faster twist barrels and still get decent accuracy.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I can't say for sure. I have never shot a round ball in a faster rate than 1:48. The faster the twist usually, the shallower the rifling, so less for the patch to grip.

[@johnndavis7647]

Yes you can but the gum will like smaller powder charges.

[@user-mt4vo4ey5n]

I'm new to all this Black Powder shooting. Got myself a new muzzleloader, powder and everything I need. Just don't have any knowledge and have not done anything until I know what I'm doing. I have Center fFre guns to go bang, so not itching to blast the powder this second. I'm just trying to come to grips with how the patch can make so much difference in point of impact. What can it be? Has to be affecting velocity only, right?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Too loose of a patch will cause gas to blow by and affect impact. Tighter is better but not so tight that you cannot easily start your patch and ball. Too much powder will burn the patch and again, cause gas to escape by.

[@user-mt4vo4ey5n]

I just went into a fabric store to buy Ticking. The lady asked me if I wanted mattress or pillow Ticking. I looked at her cross eyed and said, 'I don't know'. I took pillow ticking. I asked her what the thickness was. She looked at me cross eyed and said,' I don't know.'

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

LOL! Pillow ticking is what you needed. I think they are the same thickness.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Don't forget to wash that ticking two or three times before you use it.

[@user-mt4vo4ey5n]

I was going to wash it once. But I gots me a new coach (Uncle Sasquatch) and now I'm going to wash it 3 times. Prepping my new barrel today. Took it off the rifle and gonna warm it the oven at 200 degrees for awhile, then run the bore brush and hot soapy water in it for thorough scrub. Back in the oven to get it back to 200, then apply some mutton as the lube/protectant. All this unless you object. No hurry. I want to start off doing things right. I want to make my first smoke cloud Saturday when all my shooting supplies come in.

[@roberttolley2293]

I only dry patch,alcohol patch,between shots. that came out wrong,sorry. swab 4 times between shots, sitting in cold,clean,bore.for hunting clean bore first shot.

[@roberttolley2293]

cleaned barrel, yesterday after shooting, moving to 75 yds, but did boil cleaning, then hit barrel with mix Murphy's oil soap,peroxide, alcohol, and this morning had flush rust and black powder. fouling, still in there, any hints unc?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I think I wouldn't use peroxide.

[@karlt8233]

Peroxide will rust steel and is unnecessary in cleaning black powder. Hot water n Murphy's Oil Soap, hot water flush, dry well then lube with your favorite lube. Bore Butter or Ballistol is what I use.

[@johnndavis7647]

Try cutting some patches out of a 3m green scrubbing pad and put them in a shotun patch loop on a cleaning rod and scrubb your bore with that. Soft cotton patches just don't have the scrubbing power of old time linen towe on a towe worm. I think that most rust comes from just not getting all of the fouling out Of the grooves.

[@Fireinahorn]

What's the verdict on the Mink Oil for patch lube?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Good stuff! Just don't over do it.

[@guysview]

Doggie is licking the lead ball.

[@jimdent351]

I have a T/C Hawken in .54 cal. I have been shooting a .530 roundball, and a 0.015 patch. It doesn't matter if I use 50 or 100 grains of powder, the patch is completely destroyed when I find it (about 25% material remaining). The rifle was new when I bought it, and I have put 38 rounds through it. Someone told me that I was most likely blowing patches because of the new rifling. Would you consider this statement to be true? What are your thoughts?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Jim Dent It could be that the rifling is sharp. I haven't run across that problem but it is possible. What type of material are you using for patching?

[@jimdent351]

I can't remember the exact manufacturer of the patches, but I'm pretty sure they were made by Traditions. The patches are precut and lubed. They are also yellow in colour, much like the ones you show in your video. Thanks

[@selfbowhunter.1952]

+Jim Dent I have had the same problem with both of my bp rifles. One is a traditions 50 and the other is a made from scratch 36 cal long rifle. After about 300 rounds thru both rifles now they don't blow patches and the guns are more accurate. Both guns have a patch/charge preference so play with it. In my experience once the gun became more accurate and easier to load When I shine a flash light in the touch hole and peer into the bore the inside of the bore looks like a mirror. When the guns were new you could see the machine marks inside the bore. Use only water soluable lube to shoot it and use hot soapy water to clean the bore.

[@eljuano28]

Are you running a Traditions sidelock? Try "seasoning" your barrel. I'm not an expert with black powder, in fact I'm kind of a noob, but I'm a Marine Veteran which means I keep a dope book for each of my rifles. The difference between before and after seasoning is astonishing. Less fouling, more consistent accuracy, easier to load shot to shot, much easier to clean. Buy a tube of TC bore butter for less than $10. Takes about ten minutes including boiling a kettle of water and disassembly of the rifle. Don't rush. It's easy, but well worth doing safely. That water is seriously capable of burning the crap out of your hand and the barrel will get too hot to handle without wrapping a towel around it. You'll need your ram rod with a .410 or .45 barrel swab (assuming a .50 cal rifle,) and some cleaning patches to take up the extra space. Don't use your .50 swab for seasoning. It can get too messy and you'll end up with more bore butter on the outside then inside where it's needed. Trust me. Use the smaller size for this. Remove your nipple and, if you have one, your inspection screw too, and place the breach end in a bucket or sauce pan. Use a small funnel that fits snug, but gentle in the end of the barrel, (mine was plastic for $1 and worked fine.) Hold the barrel with a small towel wrapped around it and pour boiling water slowly through the barrel to open the pores in the metal. Once it's hot, swab the barrel with a liberal amount of bore butter. Do it several times as the barrel is cooling, but not once it's cold. There will be a point at which the bore butter stops running freely and ends up about the consistency of 30 weight oil. That's about when you can stop running swabs. Let it cool down to the touch, then run three clean patches down and back to remove any clumps or globs. Put your inspection screw and nipple back on, reassemble the rifle and fire off a cap. That's all there is to it. You won't rust and your shooting will be many times more enjoyable and productive. If it doesn't work for you, I'll give you back every cent you paid me for this unsolicited advice.

[@eljuano28]

sorry, T/C .54. Rushed reading. This should work fine on yours, but you'll need a bigger swab than mine did.

[@ThunderMountainTactical]

I have killed 6 deer and 6 Elk using a .495 round ball over a pillow ticking patch and 90 grains of 3F powder out of my Lyman Great plains rifle. I love black powder!!

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

ThunderMountain Tactical All it takes is finding the right ball, patch and load combination to make a rifle accurate! Thanks! I love black powder as well..real black powder!

[@jimf1964]

So weren't round ball barrels smooth bores? Didn't rifling only come around after the mini ball? I don't see why a round ball would even benefit from spin, or at least a lot less than a more cylindrical shape would.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

No, round ball barrels were not smooth bores. Rifling existed in the 18th century long before minie' balls were invented. Round balls do benefit from 'spin' although less than a cylindrical shape. Thanks for watching!

[@jimf1964]

Uncle Sasquatch Huh, that's interesting. Thanks!

[@douglasreed7066]

Shooting a .440 round ball with 50grains of 2f powder and was burning up patches. Tried several thicknesses of patch. Went down to 30grains of powder still getting the same burnt up patches. Any thoughts? Lancaster flintlock.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I would switch to 3f powder which is what I recommend for 50 cal and under. What kind of patch lube are you using?

[@douglasreed7066]

@@UncleSasquatchOutdoors I've tried spit patch as well as bore butter for patches I've cut and also tried pre-lubed oxyoke originals not sure what they use

[@douglasreed7066]

Thank you very much. I will try 3f and see how that goes

[@Fireinahorn]

Is pillow ticking all the same standardized thickness?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

The good stuff is. It will run .015 to .017 thick. Be sure to wash it a couple of times before using it to get what they call 'sizing' out of it and make it softer. Be sure it is 100% cotton as well. Synthetic fibers will gum up your bore.

[@Fireinahorn]

Thanks for these videos you do. You have a great channel!

[@johnndavis7647]

It comes two ways. The thick stuff has the blue design woven in. The tin material has the design stamped on. Walmart sometimes has it. I had to go to a craft store, Hobby Lobby, snd pay double for my last yard of it. Washed the starch out of it. Hot water, no bleach or fabric softener. Dried in a hot dryer. Micrometers about 15k. Will work in most guns. Cotton is vegetable so i use peanut oil for lube. Animal oil works ok too. No petroleum lubed. Make life easy, use the smallest ball diameter you can find for your bore size. Loads easy. John Davis jax fl

[@peterrussell798]

Johnn Davis Thanks for the info; I’ve always wondered about the thickness of pillow ticking.

[@karlt8233]

I use pillow ticking from Wal Mart, either the blue stripe or red stripe, both are same size. They mic out at .018 in the store and after a hot wash and dry about .0175 so not much shrink. I have washed the a few times in hot water and gotten .017 exactly. This is what I use in my TC Hawken .45, .50 and New Englander .50

[@gr8sl8m8]

thanx for the info..

[@mariustresorus942]

I've recognized you, Billy Gibbons.

[@sicesp]

thank you for this video

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

+sicesp Thank you for watching!

[@anzaal]

Say Unc, wouldn't a .490" ball + .015" + .015" (patch extends up both sides of ball)= .52" diameter ? Thanks for the enjoyable videos.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

It would be. But you are filling up several grooves instead of just two grooves. Thanks for watching.

[@roykeefe4202]

You are correct, He said ".505". A .490" ball with a .015" patch thikness would be .520" total diameter.

[@roberttolley2293]

I'm switching to goex, after use up pyrodex rs yellow can, they say use vinaigre

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Pyrodex is dirtier than Goex or Swiss. I would stay away from using vinegar as well. It is an acid. I have never had problems using just hot water and swabbing the bore clean and the drying with patches and then using T/C Bore Butter or a similar product.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Alcohol alone is fine for swabbing between shots but I wouldn't use it in combination with other solutions including Murphy's Oil Soap.

[@derrickwells2196]

can i make my patches for shooting if i can what can i use

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Derrick Wells You can. Pillow ticking is good. Cut it in strips, short start the ball and use a knife to cut the patching.

[@derrickwells2196]

i have some sheets cut out thanks for helping me out

[@Windyhillfarm71]

Have you read Dutch book?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

+ONEMANGARDEN 1971 No I haven't.

[@roberttolley2293]

just subscribed.

[@corbinbrubaker1595]

Nice dog does he shoot

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

He probably would if I'd let him. Thanks for watching.

[@roberttolley2293]

unc, how are ya? powder dry?

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

I am rolling! Powder and top knot in place!

[@roberttolley2293]

.490 Lee round ball, ten thousands patch.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

It shouldn't be the ball/patch combo then.

[@cva.54riflecrack6]

I was wondering if you could explain why there might be more than one diameter available for one caliber round ball. How much difference can it make in my shooting? Any help is welcomed and appreciated. Thank you.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

CVA .54 Riflecrack Some rifles just seem to shoot better with a tighter ball/patch combination. It takes experimenting to see with combination works bet for you.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

CVA .54 Riflecrack The larger ball patch combo will be harder to load but it grips the rifling tighter.

[@paulfolbrecht744]

Seems to me a real mountain man black powder shooter would have more of a beard.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Thanks for watching.

[@paulfolbrecht744]

@@UncleSasquatchOutdoors I hope you understand I was making a complimentary joke, oh master.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

@@paulfolbrecht744 That's how I took it..thanks.

[@gartenwollo]

Ich sehe nichts, nur einen Hund.

[@UncleSasquatchOutdoors]

Danke fürs zuschauen!