My 7 cylinder Mustang upgrade

[@devinromero8575]

Nice video. My ls swapped s10 I have to remove the wheels and inner fenders to get to the back plugs so I believe it. You can the plug boots to remove the spark plugs once loosened as well.

[@landendzelis3757]

Euro build next 👀👀👀 need a z3 drift series build on KZbin

[@snakeboren4814]

First !!! 🆒 Video Samyy !!!!

[@samyysosaa]

Yay!

[@snakeboren4814]

@@samyysosaa 👍!!!!

[@bngo29]

Seatbelts look nice

[@lachcav9885]

Awesome video Samyy

[@jjenglish239]

Get rid of that clutch switch. Not good to have hd clutch pressure on crank without oil pressure will cause thrust bearing failure

[@KLAWNINETY]

Is this more important if you have a stage 2 clutch? Like if I have a stock OEM clutch should I not worry about the clutch switch?

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

​@@KLAWNINETYno, the clutch disc isn't the issue. The pressure plate is what they are referring to and unless you're using dog shit oil, and even then I think it's a stretch and I've never heard any issues of damage to the thrust bearing.

[@KLAWNINETY]

@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 ok I think I follow you now. I've heard you don't want to ride the clutch so you don't wear out the bearing but I mean the bearing gets changed when you change the clutch anyways it's not like it has to last forever

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

@@KLAWNINETY you're talking about the throw out bearing. The thrust bearing is in the engine, it's for the crankshaft (can be incorporated into one of the main bearings) thrust (which is crankshaft pressure forward and backwards) so the counterweights don't grind on the main caps. With a performance clutch kit the pressure plate spring (the fingers) can be heavier/tighter for more clamping force. So what the original commenters theory is when you have a clutch safety switch you need to depress the clutch which will be higher thrust pressure than OEM and with the lack of oil pressure while cranking will wear the thrust bearing to failure. (Thrust bearing wear will cause "crank walk" which can cause crank sensor damage and rods to make contact with each other or with the counterweights causing friction which equates to excessive heat which equates to expanding which equates to the rod end clamping on the bearings/crank journal and then *knock knock*, "who's there?", "mechanical welding" and Rodney in apartment cylinder number 3 jumps out the window he just made out the side of your block! (Ask 4g63 guys about crank walk!) Without really knowing and understanding how engines and oil works, His theory does sound legit and makes sense, (hell it could be plausible for some applications as admittedly I don't know the in and out of all vehicles) but I've never heard of any failures from such scenarios. With knowing today's technology in oil (sounds weird to say) and the few rotations it takes to get oil pumping through the gallies it's not going to be dry aka metal on metal contact. If that's what causes your engines failure, then you were already on borrowed time!

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

@@KLAWNINETY also riding the clutch is going to smoke your clutch quick too as obviously it's going to slip from less clamping force, just the same as riding your brakes essentially. Yes the throw out bearing will get worn faster too because it will be under pressure and spinning for an extended amount of time and with it being "sealed" bearing it will heat up. If you haven't realized by now in life, heat kills everything! Mechanical, electrical and all things alive and well, heat is the devil! Heat is the best indicator for something is wrong, too much energy is being spent. Think about it, if you over work yourself what happens? It's the little things that when thought about, makes everything make more sense! Sorry I'm ADHD as fuck so now all this banter should also make more sense 😂