Overkill Heatsink = Never Overheating Again

[@BPSspace]

Intro goes crazy brother

[@dudetapedtoafridge3073]

Didn't expect to see you here!

[@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx]

sponsor block

[@BreakingTaps]

❤️

[@penguiin12]

nerd

[@genericalias5756]

sounds like the battlefield1 trailers

[@KarlMarxwell]

thats the first video i´ve seen with / about insta 360 that isn´t sponsored

[@ddegn]

Insta360 notoriously ask some creator not to mention the video was sponsored. I'm sure this video wasn't sponsored but Insta360 is shady so you can't always be sure.

[@SarahKchannel]

That is so true - even if sponsored - it was not forced down my visual cortex like every other one.

[@tarakivu8861]

@@ddegn so basically illegal tactics in most countries.

[@circuitguy9750]

Lol. Honestly can't give a worse but still positive review. "I love this product but it sucks so bad I had to spend days in my shop with a 5 axis CNC machine to make it usable"

[@king_james_official]

@@ddegnisn't that illegal?

[@soranuareane]

"Fix pushed. Please approve the pull request."

[@vincei4252]

Your burn dowd chard doesn't look the right shape. Declined the PR and closed the Jira. Have a good evening.

[@chris-hayes]

"I'm not a fan of the copper color of your heat sink, some users might want a silver heat sink. Let's first wait 5 years to allow people to comment on their favorite color for heat sinks. And then close the PR because we'll probably have a new product by then."

[@fryguy5134]

​@chris-hayes hahaha good joke. Anodized Carbon black is the obvious choice though due to it's ability to radiate heat away efficiently.

[@pinaz993]

PR does not meet style guides. Declined and closed.

[@charmio]

I noticed your Extech EX330 multimeter kept turning off during the timelapse at 8:45. Quick tip: You can disable auto-off by holding the mode button when you turn it on. Most meters have this function, on Fluke and other meters instructions to disable auto-off often printed on the battery cover (behind the flip stand).

[@IstasPumaNevada]

Handy!

[@benbrownmedia]

nice!

[@WinstonMakes]

For a hot second, I thought you were gonna machine a whole new backplate for the camera. Still enjoyed it though. Really gives me motivation to get on with my phone heatsink idea...

[@BreakingTaps]

Haha that was 100% my original intention 😅 But then I saw how complicated the backplate was. Mounting holes and various-height "lands" for the chips to heatsink against. Decided reverse engineering it was more work than I wanted, so opted for the janky route instead.

[@Bobbias]

​@@BreakingTapsYeah that's a sensible reaction.

[@andersjjensen]

@@BreakingTaps Well thought out quality jank isn't jank. It's "efficient use of engineering resources".

[@toseltreps1101]

This could be a product tho if you spend the time on remaking the backplate. Not sure if financially viable, but still

[@DudleyToolwright]

For super-glue, even the rubber enhanced loctite, all you need to do for release is heat it up to somewhere around 250F and it will pop free. Acetone is second best.

[@foldionepapyrus3441]

Yes and no, as the act of heating it up risks warping and melting (especially if your part isn't just one material), likely covers it in some soot, the glue fumes etc. The downside of solvent is it takes a while, the upside is the part comes out super clean and you didn't have to put in any effort yourself, just leave it in the sealed box of magic goo. Neither is really best and both have their place.

[@nikkiofthevalley]

​@@foldionepapyrus3441Acetone also doesn't like a bunch of plastics so if your part has any of those in it it will be destroyed

[@foldionepapyrus3441]

@@nikkiofthevalley Very true, though if you part has plastic elements it probably won't like the hot removal method either... Which really just adds to my point of no method universally best.

[@nikkiofthevalley]

@@foldionepapyrus3441 Some high temp plastics don't like acetone either, so that's not guaranteed either. I wasn't really arguing against your point, I was simply adding a bit more info

[@xxportalxx.]

I recently had to use both, a Chinese part had a pipe fitting glued in, had to blast it with a torch to unscrew the fitting, then soak in acetone to clean the threads (then discovered the Chinese had mixed thread types so I had to tap the hole...)

[@TheLaXandro]

This seemed like a job for one of those NVME coolers, with heat pipes and thin fins.

[@rosesmith9243]

It would probably show up in frame badly, his even showed up a bit.

[@SwichMad]

Was thinking of heat pipes from laptop cpu's, there must be a design that will fit the back plate nicely and has the added bonus of fast heat transfer

[@aserta]

First thing i do with these kinds of pocket cams is ditch their battery and use a dummy one for that takes juice from the grip. For 99.9% of the applications i use it, which is to record interior spaces before and after work, that's all i need. When you do this, they never heat up.

[@GlassFoxGear]

make a video about it

[@just.jose.youtube]

Why won't they heat up? You're saying the heat comes from the battery and not from the recording/processing process? :p

[@worawatli8952]

@@just.jose.youtube The battery is one of major heat source, not all of it, but it contributed, GoPro is notorious for this, using them with external battery rarely got them overheat, they even made it so you don't need a dummy battery, they can work with just USB and no battery. rofl I guess they know that lots of people use it as stationary camera.

[@pierrick1705]

would of been cool to see the heat spreading with a FLIR camera

[@Peter_A1466]

My camera will never overheat again... develops a new interest and starts filming in active volcanoes...

[@cersos]

I'm so glad I'm not the only one. Practically unusable in south Florida.

[@Nighthawkinlight]

Nice! I like that the solution ended up not really requiring disassembly of the camera. Should make it super easy on others.

[@BreakingTaps]

Agreed! I was originally planning to create an entirely new backplate with the heatsink built in, but looked like way too much work to reverse engineering. This ended up being pretty clean and more easily replicated. Cheers again for giving me the idea to use the insta360 for interviews!

[@aktik6000]

For people not having tens of thousands dollars worth of equipment, just buying 2 cameras might be actually a better option 😇 cheers! P.S. That intro is goooood 👍

[@BreakingTaps]

I saw someone add a tiny fan underneath the camera using external power, which seemed like a good option too.

[@Nevir202]

@@aktik6000 As they are waterproof, know what would work even better and be even cheaper? Take off the rubber grip, poke a little hole in the bottom of a short cup, (of a cup you cut down to be short) mount the camera to the tripod by passing the mounting screw through the hole, into the cup, fill the cup with water.

[@Clickworker101]

Should be a standard design feature in a lot of electronics

[@JustinKoenigSilica]

used to be a standard design feature in a lot of electronics*

[@Clickworker101]

@@JustinKoenigSilica nowadays it’s all made of aluminium but no fins

[@daviniusb6798]

Or at least be an option. You want the expensive toy version or the real camera?

[@MrMadsci7]

Almost no modern electronics have sufficient thermal management. 🤷🤦

[@SilvaDreams]

​@@MrMadsci7 That is because they try to make them look "cool" and dirt cheap to produce so they can sell it to you at a premium all while laughing to the bank.

[@leocelente]

I guess heat pipes would've been too bulky. The thin copper does the job nicely. Looks good!

[@DudleyToolwright]

The bearings in your spindle look like there is no pre-load and they are loose. The spindle should never bounce up and down, noticeably, under load.

[@BreakingTaps]

Haha yeah, it's not supposed to do that 😁 I think the retaining nut gave up the ghost, heard some noises the other day and now this. Haven't had a chance to tear it apart yet.

[@TheEvilAdministrator]

Yep, it sounded like the bearings weren't happy to me too - although since my background is in stationary industrial process equipment rather than machining equipment, I didn't know enough about the innards of milling machines to comment on what exactly might be wrong (hence no top-level comment from me).

[@vaderdudenator1]

I would love a video on the spindle teardown

[@Kamodomon]

It's interesting to see how many newer cameras suffer from similar heating issues when recording at 4k. VERY COOL MOD!

[@Katchi_]

That's a lot of data processing.

[@orppranator5230]

And most customers/investors want a magic black box style device, where you can’t really tell what it’s doing in there. So no external heat sink and fan.

[@SarahKchannel]

another approach to make it more compact and lighter would be to use heat pipes to get the heat off, a small heat exchanger with small 5V fan to get rid of the heat.

[@Volt64bolt]

Heat pipes would be too large, a vapour chamber like in phones would be best

[@MrNoipe]

@@Volt64bolt they'd be thinner than the giant piece of copper he has on

[@Volt64bolt]

@@MrNoipe smallest I can find are 8mm, that looks to be 4-6

[@MrNoipe]

@@Volt64bolt check on mouser "Wakefield Thermal Ultra-Thin Heat Pipes" for ten buckeraoos

[@MrNoipe]

these are 3-6mm in thicknes

[@thejoetandy]

Noctua make tiny, quiet, 5v fans, that would run off a USB power bank, and the other output of that would give you longer recording time too.

[@gregs2284]

I would have changed that blue and ping goo which looks like it was way too much and is probably whatever they could source cheaply in bulk rather than a decent thermal paste

[@JamesChurchill]

The fact that the additional heatsink easily pulled enough heat from the camera to keep it operational proves that the existing thermal compound was perfectly good, it was just the plastic housing that stopped the heat from escaping. Which wasn't a design flaw, just a compromise - for something that is designed to be handheld, those surfaces needed to be covered.

[@jimsvideos7201]

What a guy; buys a new camera, immediately takes it apart.

[@notsonominal]

"Not sponsored, clearly" hahaha, priceless!!

[@Cinema_Mechanics]

Here for the superglue fixturing! I'm guessing your fixture plate method was a lot more accurate than the blue tape method. But maybe you don't need that much accuracy on the heatsink? In any case great job on the project. You're brave for tearing into that camera.

[@SharkFishSF]

I too had this problem with my projector, the intense heat was destroying the polariser. I had some copper tubes lying around, so i flattened them into 10cm pieces of 5, tied them together and inserted into the fins of the heat sink in the projector. I did feel proud of doing that.

[@PracticalRenaissance]

oh sweet a new Breaking Taps video!

[@Scrogan]

I’d consider refixturing it on the CNC to round over the corners on the heat-sink. That’s the sort of thing that scratches its way through the bag you put it in. Though you could also 3D print a case that doesn’t let it move about at all.

[@arrx7668]

Protip with most meters you can disable the auto off feature. with some Extech it looks like you do that by holding the mode button while you turn the rotary knob from off to one of the modes.

[@DicedIceBaby314]

Oh man. Way to go with the dramatic intro! Not to mention the great content as always; thanks man!

[@rolls_8798]

I'm not sure how difficult it would be to get the parts up to temp, but brazing the copper and aluminium parts together would have been a neat solution probably much better thermal conductivity and contact and you wouldn't need the epoxy

[@Katchi_]

KISS... Not just a ghay band.

[@nemof]

neat little project. kinda interested to see who you're going to be interviewing, not sure i've seen that type of thing on your channel before.

[@flyguy8791]

That intro though, so awesome. Just a real cool build too (pun most definitely intended).

[@DanielHeineck]

Added bonus, the mini-fins act as a nice grip :) Fun project, glad it works well

[@alexwood020589]

The ai voice at the start had me reflexively swiping up thinking “oh shit, another crappy low effort ai video”. Don’t do yourself dirty like that, this video was awesome.

[@TradieTrev]

That's a mad mod! I remember doing a lens mods to my flip cam back in the day to add different lense and that was just epoxy.

[@shadow7037932]

I did a similar thing with a couple of cameras. But I used some Panasonic PSG as a flex heat strap to carry the heat away from the ASIC to the metal chassis areas and an additional metal 3D printed heatsink tucked away.

[@herbertmuller6179]

A little bit of data for powerconption and area to dissipate the heat would be nice. And an coparison to a heatpipe construction.

[@laststand6420]

The intro is what I feel like when I start to make something, bold, noble, groundbreaking... After a bit of creative failure towards the middle of the project it feels more like the clown show music... And finally when I look upon my creation in all it's finished glory for the first time... Duel of the fates starts to play at half speed and double volume.

[@benmcreynolds8581]

I love these Insta360 cameras. They are the most fascinating advancement in personal cameras. Their capabilities are so awesome. That's just my personal opinion

[@Roobotics]

4:58 I think if you glued them in the reverse order, you'd get even more glue at the interface where it matters and could also use less per mounting, instead of it ending up in the grooves and making it more tedious to dissolve away, it would also give the acetone more unclogged channels to snake in around to all the surfaces. Place the part to be milled, lather glue, put the cross-channeled surface plate on that, and gently slide it around some to spread glue contact all around, then push to set it, etc. Also for oddly shaped pieces there's no 'guessing' how much of the channel-plates surface you need to cover or where since it's on the work piece instead.

[@GTRgeoff]

When I was deeply into astrophotography I had my Canon DSLR professionally modified in Korea to be a massive heat sink with Peltier cooling and fan. Maintained 20degC below ambient and allowed me to pull 10min exposures without heat spots on the CCD sensor. Needed a computer to run the imaging and it was heated on the glass sensor screen which was also without UV and IR filter. Over the top for your application maybe but who knows what you might do next.

[@Unduplicatable]

I've been dreaming about doing something like this for a long time now. It's ridiculous there is not a second version with a massive heatsink that can't overheat!

[@wonderfalls2]

Is this your personal machine shop? That's a lot of impressive equipment.

[@BreakingTaps]

Yep! I used to do a lot of jobshop/prototype work, less so these days and more YT instead.

[@wonderfalls2]

@@BreakingTaps Inspiring. I always learn something new from your content. Keep up the great work.

[@marc_frank]

​@@BreakingTapshow did you get started doing that?

[@mstrVLT]

Awesome job. The use of loctite was unnecessary. I've often seen double sided tape used (for milling). As an addition I would recommend making an arca swiss mount in an aluminum block.

[@RobertQuattlebaum]

Note the boron paste needs to dry out to work best. The epoxy might prevent it from fully drying, at least in a good amount of time.

[@LordGryllwotth]

If you milled on the inside of the heatsink for a heatpipe, you would have had a even better conduction of the heat to spread it. The lower aluminum part will not help much with the dissipation. Heat travels just so far. But it seems like it works great for you.

[@J_Stronsky]

I was actually thinking of getting a 360 for filming in a very hot environment, so this is actually good to know. I hadn't seen any reviews mention bad heat management.

[@BreakingTaps]

Mostly an issue when filming in the 4k mode. If you drop down to the 2k resolution the heat issues are a lot less pronounced. Might still be an issue in a hot environment if there isn't a lot of airflow though, not sure. Would definitely want to borrow one to test before purchasing in that case!

[@Trekeyus]

That intro is brilliant.

[@lvcifer-cloverfield]

confirmed my first thought I had about these when they came out. Great solution!!

[@amirfmaster2515]

Just fill it up with mineral oil and put two holes for circulation of the oil, you can direct the oil through a mini radiator with the help of a small pump.

[@russ-techindustries]

I really need a shop tour now. It seems bigger with every video!

[@adfaklsdjf]

you could also juice the cooling with a spritz of water on the heatsink for some evaporative cooling

[@MoritzvonSchweinitz]

But how well would it have worked when just removing the rubber that was covering the aluminium plate?

[@marks4058]

Thoroughly ridiculous! Keep up the good work :D

[@Jorge.ALXNDR]

I'm kinda surprised of how well build this little camera is. Of course it's very much imperfect but can you imagine how harder this mod would be if this was maybe by Sony or Apple?

[@JAGFG42]

No water cooling? Come on I need a metal 3d printed cooling channels😂

[@NotChaix]

Can you give us a tour of your shop and all the equipment/devices you have there? That would be really interesting to see :)

[@chrismayer8990]

Man, the intro is awesome!

[@IamCrusaderRUS]

6:46 It looks like you just reused old thermal compound. Hope it didn't sit in the air for too long.

[@firefighter4443]

Came here to make this comment. Gotta replace the old compound with an appropriate quantity of premium stuff.

[@JamesChurchill]

Or it's high-quality PTM and can be reused - replacing it with anything else would perform worse. The final result shows that it's working perfectly well.

[@matz4k]

I thought the same, but the camera is generating 3W-3,5W. Not sure how severe a hotspot can really become. Would have loved to see fresh thermalpaste though

[@medivalone]

You may be able to sand away the very top edge of the heatsink and see if that bit in the frame goes away. Though it could also be the bottom edge you're seeing. A bit of sharpie should answer that question.

[@bikalimark]

You should have stress-tested it with recording while charging from a discharged battery. Would have been cool to see what the limits of the solution are (probably would've worked totally fine). Anyway great job as always.

[@sethherrin45]

i think it would be so cool if you continued a series with this where you made a watercooled heatsink that screws into the original holes. It can get pretty hot inside of track cars with no airflow, and this would be cool to see done.

[@BreakingTaps]

Oh, yeah that's tempting! Would be very cool, I'll put it on the "need a fun quick project" todo list!

[@MrMadsci7]

Heat transfer is fun. It’s all about surface area. Except below the surface where it’s all about cross section.

[@M0nu5]

What an Intro?!?! Amazing video as always xD

[@dividead100]

Would have been really interesting to include what it does without the plastic cover. Entertainment aside that information would have been a lot more useful to the people watching than what you did here as people who have a shop know they could have done this and those who don't, can't do it even if they now know about it but they could have benefited from knowing how much of a difference the lack of plastic makes, before/without doing it themselves. I imagine the main reason insta360 doesn't do that is because it probably gets hot enough to burn but I also imagine some people don't care.

[@godlugner5327]

I have one of these cameras and definitely hate that it films the best in bright daylight and yet HATES being in the sun, water sports or skiing is where this thing shines 😂

[@enpegee]

The introo!!! I thought it was some products promotion 😂 Next project with active cooling and outdoor test

[@Julzaa]

I didn't expect the quality of this camera to be this good

[@GroovyVideo2]

adding heat sink plates to controller 25kw controller for Emx - may add water evaporator if needed - gallon evaporated = 8700 BTU or 2500 watts

[@jdrissel]

I built something kind of like this for my Note 8 phone. I used it for long videos to serve as both a dash cam and to make some hyperlapse videos. I used an 3mm aluminum sheet with a hole cut for the camera bump. I epoxyed that to a dash mount. Then on the back side I mounted 4 60w peltier modules wired for 6v each from the 12 lighter socket. I mounted a pair of heatsinks with little noctua fans running on speed controllers to keep the noise down. It kept the phone down to about 65°F even while recording 4k on the dash driving into the setting sun when it was well over 100°F. Mine worked, but it was really ugly compared to yours.

[@jemalibezeid5930]

Cool project! I was planning on something less elegant for my iphone mini. If it’s charging on the case on hot summer day it gets pretty hot.

[@whoho1]

I love your tumbler!

[@dhruvgulati1667]

Add a small fan inside the mount hole and selifie stick small chamber. It will make it more cool. Might add some fan noise near mic.

[@dfgaJK]

I feel like it would have worked just as well with only the top half of the heatsink. You should have done a long test with external power.

[@Metazolid]

Pretty handy to include a mount for the audio sync device though, might as well combine it into a larger heatsink at that point if you keep using both anyways.

[@alexradac589]

@@Metazolid You mean making a heatsink-mount-holder chimera? I'd rather have a more than sufficient heatsink and keep it pocket sized.

[@zanechristenson3436]

No no no this project went way too smoothly and you settled for really really good results instead of expecting unreasonable results and failing to get any via over complicating the project…. Oops I drifted into my own shop for a moment there lol. carbon nano tube water cooling instead please!

[@jonmchang]

Instead of making that overlaid plate out of copper, I would use some salvaged heat pipes to very quickly wick the heat out of the case and into the larger heatsink on the bottom.

[@seanfitzgerald9815]

You could definitely mill the top of the heat sink to an extreme angle and it would vanish in the invisible part. Wouldn’t really be enough material to degrade its ability I wouldn’t think. I’d say parts of a single percent if anything.

[@burnte]

There is epoxy that is especially made for thermal transfer workloads, I used it all the time for situations like this.

[@wack1305]

That intro had me checking the date to see if this was parody

[@hassiaschbi]

I think you could just freeze the glued parts and thermal contraction will realease the glue. it works very well with releasing SLA prints from its "bed".

[@kylwell]

As a note, CA doesn't react well to thermal shock so next time toss the glued fixture and plate into the freezer. Works even better with dissimilar metals.

[@AstroCharlie]

I need this on my Insta360 for desert excursions ASAP.

[@kuerbis27]

i feel so scammed! I am at least 7 Videos in, and not a single tap has been broken! love your videos

[@BreakingTaps]

I will try harder on the next video! 😄

[@GoelerLP]

A great solution! The only thing I am wondering, is if it that beneficial to have the battery in the aluminum housing thermally bonded to the same heatsink the camera uses. If its operating temperature at that power is below that of the aluminum, it could lower its efficiency.

[@BreakingTaps]

Yeah probably not great for battery health/life. I know some folks will remove the battery and run on external power, helps keep temperatures down a bit (no heat from the battery, and air circulation in the battery compartment).

[@mezu-e]

I missed the word "fixture" and thought you were supergluing aluminum to copper as part of some cursed heatsink design

[@thelegacyofdan]

I was actually looking into getting one of these to stream endurance racing inside the car. However, the overheating concerns are what pushed me away from that idea. I'd be curious if you would be open seeing the cooling performance of this while it is on USB power source and an ambient temperature that is consistent and relatively high. Because our races are 8+ hours and the ambient temp in the race car likely is higher than the scenario you displayed in the video. This would be valuable for my decision making to see if I want to invest into for racing The timing of this video is incredible, great work! Love your channel ❤

[@guard13007]

The fact that the device isn't like this to begin with is such a failure of design.

[@Dje4321]

Use heat, not acetone to break metal on metal superglue bonds. Will penetrate the whole glue surface instead of just the edges

[@brianhamel5640]

Fantastic video! Discovering your channel really led me down a rabbit hole... What made you decide to use a combination of thermal paste and epoxy resin instead of just a thermal adhesive?

[@DonnyDonnMendoza]

That intro is enough to get me to sub 😂

[@calebplumleeoutdoors]

Wow. That turned it from an action cam into a larger-than-dslr beast lol. Now I wanna see some extreme sports folks wearing that sucker while racing around 😂

[@tarakivu8861]

Yeah.. i mean he could have just used 2 wide-angle cameras.. But i dig this, its nice only to have 1 file.. not sure how supported 360° video is nowdays through.. a few years ago you had to use some weird software from the manufacturer.. and we all know they are usually dogshit

[@Nevir202]

Instead of cutting out the piece to the right (if you are looking at the copper side, you should have let the heatsink stick out over there, probably would have had way better temps, as you could have done fins on both sides. of that part.

[@anon_y_mousse]

Neat little side project. Now you just need a bigger battery so you can get 4 hours out of it.

[@ARPLATINUM]

@@Tronicsfix This is where all your thermal paste went!

[@AKG58Z]

Refining the design will make it more efficient at dissipating the heat.

[@therealchayd]

No surprise that these things overheat, I brought a couple of water damaged insta cameras to repair and boy, have they crammed a ton of components on those tiny circuit boards. Absolute nightmare to work on, with salt-grain-sized 0201 passives all tightly packed in among all the chips (which are mostly BGA, even the tiny ones).

[@kevinheimann7664]

i guess the plastic is also used as a insolator so the surface temp dosent get to high and its legal to sell

[@drkastenbrot]

thats not how thermodynamics work

[@kevinheimann7664]

@@drkastenbrot the amout of heat energy is the same of course but by isolating the hot part less heat can escape at that spot and so the surface temp is lower Because Produkts like that arent allowed to exceed a surface temp so nobody can get burnt. You get a higher delta t form internal to external temp limiting the device and making it legal to sell

[@drkastenbrot]

@@kevinheimann7664 nope. if you have a defined amount of power (as you do in electronics) and a defined outer surface area, all you can do is redistribute the heat. you can make one side hotter and one side cooler, but isolating the surface will not change the average surface temperature. you cannot contain thermal power, it will always climb to equilibrium and escape. if that doesnt seem intuitive to you, have it explained to you by chatgpt.

[@drkastenbrot]

if you perhaps mean that they are trying to avoid hot spots: the large aluminium plate already does that and the plastic used is most likely thermally conductive plastic. dense electronic products like smartphones and these cameras will inevitably heat relatively evenly purely as a result of the density, and the internal construction just helps reduce junction temperatures.

[@HyviaVideoitaMansenlale]

It will limit the thermal output as it will turn off before the plastic has the time to become too hot, without the insulator it would work longer but surface temps would be way too high. This is very common in holdable electronics.

[@thevoidedwarranty]

I would have used m2 screws to fix the camera to the heatsink

[@cmyanmar13]

Heatsinks without a fan have better airflow with wider fin spacing. Although, it managed, so I guess it doesn't matter.

[@dechrysen]

now implement straigth to ssd recording and it would be perfect

[@olleolsson7837]

I really thought that the thumbnail and the intro was from the creator Evan Monsma. Had the same warmth and almost the same style to it. Not disappointed that it wasn’t though…😁👍🏽

[@BreakingTaps]

Oh neat, haven't seen his channel before. Queued up a bunch to watch, cheers for the tip!

[@LennertK]

This is awesome. I've been using the One RS 1" 360 edition which suffers from overheating as well. I use it often with an external powerbank or charger for infinite runtime but this makes the overheating problem even worse. I usually point a small USB fan at it on a small flexible clamp but it makes the whole setup very clunky and look unprofessional (I'm a videographer), and it still overheats sometimes even with the additional airflow. I just bought the X4, haven't used it yet but I'm sure it will have the same issues, as do my Gopros. One day I'll be able to do what you did in this video to get it to a reliable state but I'm not there yet 😉 I think it was still heating up slowly in your test, right? Could you maybe do another duration test where you power the camera over USB, to see if it reaches an equilibrium before shutting down from overheating? Otherwise a V2 of this may have to include a small fan 😬