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In this Adobe Lightroom Tutorial, I’m showing my process of color grading a sunset landscape photo in detail.
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0:00 Intro
Especially if you’re shooting raw, color grading is a vital part of creating an eye-catching image. Of course, there are many ways to tackle it, so with this video I want to show my personal Lightroom color grading process from start to finish.
0:45 Profile & White Balance
The very first thing I usually do is to change the used camera profile. For more base saturation I’m choosing the Adobe Landscape profile, while if I want to just slightly brighten up the darkest parts of the image, I’m going for the Adobe Standard profile. To continue I go on adjusting the white balance. For sunset I love adding more temperature which results in an overall warmer image. Sometimes it might be hard to decide what exactly you want to achieve. In this case it might help to first turn up the vibrance and saturation all the way and then adjust the white balance, to get a better feeling for the colors of the photo. Once done, turn down the vibrance and saturation again.
2:18 Balancing Exposure
Before I can continue the color grading, I balance the exposure of the photo to get a better idea which color themes work, and which don’t. For this scene, I dropped the highlights, raised the shadows, added a bit of exposure and finally some contrast. After adjusting those things, the photo still felt a little gloomy, so I added vibrance for ‘friendlier’ colors.
3:25 Local Adjustments
Of course, local adjustments are another vital part of the exposure-balancing process. For this photo, I wanted to make the sky just a bit darker. With a cloudless sky like this it is super easy to do using graduated filters. I added one over the sky, roughly overlapping the mountains. However, to not change the brightness of the mountain peaks, I used a luminance range mask and specifically targeted the bright sky. Once that was set up, I simply dropped the exposure, which also gave me some more blue tones in the sky.
On the left side there is very strong, beautiful golden hour light with a bit of fog. With the use of a radial filter, my goal was to add a little more fog and make the golden colors just a bit stronger. Adding more fog is actually very easy, just carefully decrease the dehaze amount. This adds fog, but also, we lose saturation, and it will make the area brighter. To counter the lost colors, I simply increased the white balance temperature inside of that radial filter.
5:25 Tone Curve
At this point comes my favorite part: the main color grading. For sunsets or sunrises, I love to add some more red / yellow tones using the tone curve. In the red channel I very carefully drag the point for the highlights to the left (adding red tones) while in the blue channel I drag the point for the highlights straight down (adding yellow tones).
6:33 HSL
Further adjustments are made in the HSL panel. First, I take a close look which colors might be distracting and how I can fix that. In this case, the green tones in the center were a bit too much for my taste. In the hue tab, I dropped the green hue all the way down. This gave the grass in the center a more yellow-ish look and makes everything look much more harmonic. Then, in the saturation tab, I boosted the orange and blue tones slightly. Finally, in the luminance tab, I dropped the blue luminance for a darker sky and increased the greens for slightly brighter grass.
9:00 Split Toning
One of the more impactful changes comes in the color grading panel (split toning) For sunsets or sunrises using a warm tone for the highlights and mid-tones of the photo makes a huge difference. Boosting the saturation of those gives you very intense colors. Of course, this might not be for everyone as at this point it gets very vibrant. You can balance this a little more by giving the shadows a cold color tone.