My Door Sensor (Revised Design) Breakdown and Upgrades

An overview video of the version 2.5 of my ultra-low power battery-based door/window sensor. I kept the schematics, design and code but made a change in the components to make it more practical. Get 10 PCBs for $5 USD at www.pcbway.com
Version 1 - • My Ultra Low Power Wir...
Version 2 - • Version 2.0 - My Ultra...
This sensor can be used to monitor doors, motion, or it can act as wall switches. It uses microAmps while in standby and has a trigger time of 240ms. It is designed using ESP8266, Attiny and communicates over ESPNOW, Wifi and MQTT.
Get the Mico-Switch
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Amazon.com - amzn.to/3qcnxSd
Amazon.ca - amzn.to/3BRC5bZ
AliExpress - s.click.aliexp...
Get the Code & Schematics
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store.mrdiy.ca...
DISCLAIMER: Some of the links found here may be affiliate links, meaning I will make commission on sales you make through my link. This is at no extra cost to you to use my links/codes, it's just one more way to support me and my work. Much of the information contained is based on personal knowledge and experience. It is the responsibility of the viewer to independently verify all information.

[@squalazzo]

great! thanks for sharing, waiting for v3

[@icameforthemoshpit]

Great design and video! I also switched from reed to micro switches because of the exact same problems! I didn't create a custom PCB, but just soldered it to a ESP-01 module and created a housing that can hold everything together with two AA batteries and a hole in which I placed the micro switch. I think this is way more portable and robust than the reed solution. Keep it up!

[@MrDIYca]

Cool, thanks!

[@ebb2421]

You need a reset RC, 10K/1uf on pin1. Your diagram shows the switch applying batt to the gpio5 input, good way to kill it. You only need a pullup resistor internal/external on gpio5 to Vcc and the switch NO to gnd. You can delete the attiny by using the switch to send a reset pulse and wake the 8266 from deep sleep (~20ua). GPIO16(pin4) jumpered to reset can also wake from deep sleep with a timer. very good content👍

[@TecSanento]

would you still be able to read the switch status (open or closed) ?

[@user-gg8fj3qc1z]

Nice job. I like this.

[@richarddalling913]

Personally I would have stayed with the read switch, I would have added pillars to the PCB so that you did not need to bend the leads this way if you put it in a good case you can have a good IP rating, with the switch you will always have a hole that water can get in not good for garage doors, but I like the design

[@MrDIYca]

I didn't think of that - very good point.

[@philippeschjelderup9644]

Great design! Looking forward to more videos! Btw: I have a bunch of these Micro Limit switches laying around, where did you find the footprint for it? Can't seem to locate it.

[@MrDIYca]

Thanks. I just built the component from the datasheet.

[@gmag11]

Your designs are great! Are they open sourced? Anyway if you make them available in any store let me know. 👏👏👏

[@MrDIYca]

Thanks. Yes, they are. Links are in the description.

[@boopeshkumarprabhakaran]

hey thanks for navigating me here....may I know what reed switch you use ? two way somthing? i heard of open or closed reed switch

[@MrDIYca]

I used this one - geni.us/tkaN or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dd2nPab

[@firazpeerjade]

That is called limit switch !

[@ashishdhanawade2110]

I want this pcb

[@MrDIYca]

It is available on my store.

[@GoatZilla]

heh good printerz don't use those switches anymoar.

[@MrDIYca]

what do they use?

[@GoatZilla]

@@MrDIYca I think it's essentially current sensing on the driver motors now. They can detect skipped steps and blockages, and the bonus is they don't need to wire up or adjust limit switches anymore.

[@ashishdhanawade2110]

I want this pcb