My First Zimmerit - How Hard Can It Be?

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Guys... which method seems more legit to you? Or... even better... do you know any other good Zimmerit techniques worth trying?

[@HAMDOT]

Night Shift I’ve heard you can sand the surface before attaching the epoxy putty to help it stick.

[@nerminkapic3264]

Maybe you should try using wood acrylic kit

[@nodnodnod2063]

I tried cheap wood filler with great success. Has the texture of the Tamiya putty but can be worked a few hours and washed away with water if need be.

[@ukscalemodeler6729]

Although I have not tried it myself but maybe have ago at mixing either the Tamiya putty from the tube with some Mr Surfacer 500 or with the MRP putty, I would have ago but I don't have the putty products, only Tamiya epoxy.

[@stevea4744]

I'm intrigued by Mr. Filler and the Tamiya epoxy putty. I'm glad you did this. I have the Gruppe Ferhmann F13 and have been agonizing over the Zimmerit. I tried the kit supplied Zimmerit decals with disastrous results. I also tried acrylic glazing putty and found that you could not make it thin enough and the work time was extremely short. Thanks for giving me other options!

[@Panzermeister36]

That looks excellent! You're far more brave than I am...but some day I'll have to try this because StuGs had some weird zimmerit patterns than nobody has recreated properly with resin/remolded sets. Also, holy shite, 50K subs. Last week you were at like 40K :D You're blowing up...

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Just don't build that rare StuG III B with Schurzen and Zimmerit, that thing is mine! 🤣

[@Panzermeister36]

@@NightShiftScaleModels There are much weirder ones than that!

[@janmaderholz8613]

There are some tools from Passion Models for this type of Zimmerit ( Waffle Zimmerit) with this one is much better if you work with the Tamiya Putty

[@Panzermeister36]

@@janmaderholz8613 I mean MIAG 2cm checker-board zimmerit, not the ALKETT waffle pattern. And then there's the initial ALKETT pattern which looks like the "standard" zimm line pattern...only in arcs rather than lines... and also the weird Krupp patterns on StuG IV, etc. etc. StuGs are insane; there are almost 11000 of them.

[@janmaderholz8613]

@@Panzermeister36 Yea you are totally right, there are many types of Zimmerit patterns that were used on Stugs, So the pattern you want to do is the one that is also used on Panthers, isn´t it?

[@90Gunni]

I really like getting home from work on Fridays, cracking open a beer and watching one of your videos!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks, now I want to open one myself!

[@mina7572]

Cracking open a beer, now thats a good idea!

[@a.ward02]

im always so surprised on how many different techniques there are to make my models look a lot better, so whenever there is a new upload i get happy because i know i will learn new techniques and extra detail to add onto my models :) thank you uncle Nightshift!!!!

[@kallebal]

I love how you show your failures and mistakes. Dare to admit you don't know a technique 100% and ask for advice from us viewers. So we novices don't have to go through the same thing. Your tutorials, techniques and everything else you teach me/us is priceless. And dude, you are funny as hell. Love your commenting. Keep up the excellent work.

[@jasemac5391]

So glad you posted a video, I am in Hospital after having back surgery due to an accident in the Military, this has made my hospital stay so much better binged watching your videos 👍🏻🎄

[@TheModelGuy]

Love this. I'm so disappointed I didn't find this channel until a week ago. As someone who's not really done armor, your channel is a goldmine for info

[@kaferrat]

Look forward to Fridays & that Night Shift notification. 😎 Really nice to see the different putty & scribing techniques all in one video. Look forward to the new model next week. Have a nice one.

[@Cainite]

I know, it will never happen but I would love to see what you can do with a Warhammer 40k tank...maybe a Land Raider... Just imagine, you can go all out on a tank that has seen combat for 10.000 years... Oh man...

[@mrwigglez3661]

Glad im not the only one thinking this. I use alot of Martins tips specifically for my 40K tanks

[@greywolfblooddoom664]

Yep me to I used the weathering techniques, the weld beads, some copper boxes and so on!

[@greywolfblooddoom664]

A leman russ, a chimera or maybe even a baneblade. Or just imagine conversion for a sentinel walker. I can only dream

[@mrwigglez3661]

@@greywolfblooddoom664 I just realized your username means werewolf. Son of Fenris?

[@ProjeKtWEREWOLF]

Watching these videos has given me the confidence to do a 40k Predator...in Raptors or Marines Malevolent colours. I'm still undecided

[@josipvlahovic326]

I used the AK acrylic putty with Rye field zimmerit tool. Work in small sections. Like 3 or 4cm at a time because it dries fast. For clean sharp edges use the masking tape and only pull when it is dry (after 20 minutes). When using the zimmerit tool angle it at about 60° just so you can see what u doing but not that it is vertical. Also make it random by sometimes pulling in different angles with different spacings between each row and at couple od them start a little bit further. So it doesnt seem like all in one go. And pull it like you did on the example with same tool. After every pull wipe it clean at the paper towel or you will get inconsistent pattern. If you want to chipp it just scrape it away. I had the same problem as you and used a lot of puttys and techniques but it is actually very easy to do! Give it a try

[@bertparker1642]

40 years ago I used a two part epoxy by duro, it was yellow and blue you mixed to a blue puddy. I rolled it with a exacto blade handle on wax paper and mineral oil, pressed it on my old bandai 1/48 scale tank and sculpted it with a small flat blade screw driver. Drying time was about an hour so you had plenty of time to work it. I was very happy with the results!

[@roberthenderson2580]

I use water based wood putty (Elmer's wood putty for example) It sticks well, doesn't dry too fast like Tamiya putty, you can thin it if you want with water to get a nice consistency, and it cleans up with water. If you screw it up, it's easy to remove and doesn't damage the surface of your project.

[@williamlee5738]

I also use elmers and a metal rake! Best so far.

[@nicolas6226]

It's always a pleasure to see that a new video is available. Nice video, nice tuto, as usual :) thanks !

[@chrisgibson5267]

"Mistake? We don't make mistakes; we have happy accidents". Bob Ross

[@jimtaylor294]

"Cardassians do not make mistakes." - Gul Dukat

[@cygnusx10]

Hi Uncle! Ah yes, Zimmerit and that age old question of how to replicate it. I don't like the resin "stickers" either, they're too uniform and often the patterns look too big. I like to make Zimmerit using the two part epoxy rolled out/baby powdered method. You might find that the putty sticks a little better if you roughen up the surface it's going on to first. Use your favourite method to do this, but obviously don't go too hard at it else you're left with rough plastic underneath any battle damage. I generally use a 200 or 400grit sander using one or two "very light" passes, which is usually enough to provide a little rougher surface for the putty to stick to rather than the shiny flat plastic. Looking forward to seeing F13... Great vid as usual - thanks for sharing.

[@vonsopas]

Now my Friday is complete! I was watching you apply that Zimmerit and I kept thinking on the appropriate technique to use in a hypothetical Königstiger build, I remember seeing this one picture in a book and the pattern on the gun mantlet was very intricate. Thanks for posting mate!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

From what I've seen Zimmerit on some King Tigers seems pretty thick and pronounced. Could be a great subject for that epoxy and rolling tool!

[@fidinboca]

In the past (Very past, about 25 years) I try every kind of putty, epoxy paste and cream who exist in that time. I never reach an consistent result. I start with the iron solder, in the beggining not well but, with time and the right iron solder (15 watts and very fine needle in the front) I reach an very good result. I currently use wood filler and sometimes a saw blade or PE tools. And I am doing well.

[@richardorta8960]

Not sure why but I got the feeling that I have seen someone use white glue and chalk powder to make their own putty... might have been some other powder and wood glue. I cannot even remember what the stuff was used for. Never made zimmerit myself, but I remembered the faintest thing about that putty thing. Sculpting clay. Just make your zimmermit pattern, then dry the clay, then glue it on. Simply a thought that I had when talking about the putty thing. Great videos, man!

[@Dragon_Werks]

I just made my first Zimmerit using 3M Acryl White glazing putty (an automotive supply item) that had started getting a bit thick & stiff in the tube (I got it 10 years ago, moved 3 times, including across country, and forgot I had it.) I thinned it with Tamiya Extra Thin, applied it with a pallet knife (I have 3 sizes), and applied the ridges using the Trumpeter Zimmerit tools.

[@havanadog7987]

Here’s what I do. Mix plastic cement with Tamiya putty and then apply a liberal amount of chalk dust scraped in with your hobby knife. Why does this work? I don’t know. But it makes it much more rugged and mimics the actual texture of zimmerit. I stumbled upon this by accident but god does it work well. I then used a weird rivet/bolt or something that fell off my desk and glued it to a dead paintbrush. I rolled the pattern onto the paste. Best of luck

[@TheKenkohater]

Use “no nails” as the putty, and a snipped hacksaw blade as your tool

[@TheKenkohater]

I forgot to say, no nails for a caulk gun

[@welshzecorgi7903]

Photo etched parts lesson? I'm always screwing up those, especially the ship railings.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

A photoetch bending tool can solve half your problems, if you don't own one already.

[@ksiegowamajora465]

Jeremy Clarkson said that many times. We all know how this all ends ; P

[@ItsARandomDragon]

*CLARKSON YOU IDIOT* -James May

[@scottkut6622]

I have done two zimmerits. One on a Elephant (The old Testors Kit yay!) and the other on a Tamiya AusF. A Panther. On the Elephant, I used a soldering iron. On the Panther a 70/30 mix of wood filler and soldering iron. The soldering iron requires a really light touch and a good sanding afterwards...and I don't think it ever was in proper scale, but I just love the effect with paint and weathering. The wood filler I used with a small flat head screwdriver...much more forgiving. Never have bought one of the new zimmerit tools.

[@toshirovierastalker1687]

Try using Elmer's Wood Filler (other similar brand would work too); it's super easy to work with and you can remove it with water if you're not satisfied and want to start over

[@IncahootswithChrist]

The grittiness of wood putty and it's tendency to crumble away might look pretty convincing but I'd have to say it would look out of scale. Good idea though.

[@Godstv518]

Seconded...

[@Godstv518]

Try the wood putty. Looks to scale and is awesome. Good video on here of fellow l learned it from.

[@roberthenderson2580]

@@IncahootswithChrist The Elmer's isn't gritty and it can be thinned so you can spread it as thin as you like.

[@waynedaly1718]

Interesting work. I feel the off tank rolled out epoxy putty technique is giving the best results. As always excellent content for my Saturday morning modelling fix. Look forward to the next one. As always....G’day from Australia mate.

[@urbanesmala]

Yoda said failure is the best teacher so this video was legit.

[@tomieloranta5818]

I have this very tank wip and I just used ATAK resin zimmerit, it replaces kit turret and side panels with resin replacements so zimmerit doesn't look too thick. Also for those few resin sheet bits, just sand them down as much as you can.

[@Tiger1AuasfE]

Cool video, nice zimmerit applying ideas.

[@Purpmaster]

I can’t wait to see this piece completed. I know you have a plan for this one, but I’d love to see you add some interesting features on a Tiger, possibly a camouflage from foliage.

[@Thesovietdild0]

Hello the epoxy method are the best ! But in the market the zimmerit decals stickers it's pretty good too ! An other great tips videos Martin ! Respects from French modelers :)

[@gamedude412]

a bit of sanding will help the putty grip and the texture can be hidden with mr surfacer

[@hoodie7659]

exactly my thoughts as well

[@paulgreen6903]

At time frame 2:50 you said it look s terrible.... i think it look s GREAT. It has that warn out look....NICE.

[@EURIPODES]

It was years ago but I did a Tiger and I used jb weld and our fine tooth metal comb for cats and dogs. The trick was to wait for just the right time for the JB weld to dry enough to hold the imprint.

[@mina7572]

I also like the wavy irregular pattern but if you do want it straight I might suggest one of two things: - Instead of dragging horizontally, rotate the armor piece 90 degrees so you can do it vertically as it is usually easier to pull upwards or pull downwards than side to side. - Alternatively you can brace the comb against a book and slide it side to side very smoothly, and move the armor piece itself up and down to change the elevation of the pattern. (Side note for anyone like me who doesn't have baby powder you can also use corn starch)

[@edwarddormer1103]

Mina seconded, definitely rotate 90 degrees to work on it and support the plastic panel to stop it flexing so much. Maybe stick it down with double sided tape to keep it flat, then peel off when putty is dry?

[@mina7572]

@@edwarddormer1103 yes! supporting the plastic is something I overlooked.

[@NZobservatory]

Yay! He pronounced "Tamiya" correctly! That alone is worth a like. >}

[@Varadiio]

Is that the correct way, kind of like TOM-iya? I assumed it was like TAM-iya, but had hobby shops correct me with tam-EEYA.

[@NZobservatory]

@@Varadiio The hobby stores are wrong. Japanese emphasize it as "TA-mi-ya", although the intonation is quite flat and the emphasis on "TA" is only slight. And yes, you're correct, the Japanese barely sound the "mi" part. It's almost an apostrophe, as in "Tam'ya". Vowels in English tend to be long, but in Japanese are much shorter. For instance, "s'mo" for "sumo".) No idea why so many westerners prefer "Ta-MI-a" but that is definitely not the correct way to say it.

[@princeofcupspoc9073]

In pronouncing Japanese words, I start by over emphasizing the last syllable. ta mi YA That reminds me to NOT drop the last syllable. Then try again with them all even. ta mi ya ya ya That reminds me that the last syllable sounds more like a middle syllable in English. Then finally ta mi ya. Also ka ra te, ka ra o ke, shi ra shi su shi, o ben to.

[@NZobservatory]

@@princeofcupspoc9073 Yeah, so long as you can avoid the western habit of elongating every sound and of always emphasizing the "middle" syllable of Japanese words and names.

[@silverdragontm9548]

At the moment, I do Zimmerit on a 1/87 King Tiger. I use milliput super fine white, also a epoxy putty. But I place it in small chunks bit by bit and work myself slowly over the surface. This way I get it very thin, like 0,1 mm. Then I cut a little piece of the required measure of an PE sprue and superglue it onto a toothpick. Then I wet the surface and place in the Zimmerit pattern. After it’s hardened (then I have more control over the final result), I create battle damage with a knife like you. Et voila, no more allied magnetic mines on this tank!

[@claytonmcclain182]

Ah my old nemesis Zimmerit. From squadron signal green stuff to Tamiya putty. And everything in between. Started 1986 with Zimmerit. They're even was thick resin sheets you could buy TERRIBLE! Before my Tamiya Tiger's & Nichimo Tigers were just soso. I just gave it up, until Atac Zimmerit & another company???Zimmerit sheets amazing! the new stuff even go's down with super glue. through expensive it is time saving and my temper taming stuff. 😜 awesome video.

[@pem7195]

Perfect. A pesar de ser en inglés,está muy bien grabado de imagen y sonido.

[@alexanderking8612]

I like your second to last method.. as you mentioned getting scale zimmerit is extremely hard. I remember the days where peopel used hot knifes (that is dangerous) and Squadron Green Putty and liquid glue was a thing.. (of nightmares). Then people started using Miliputty. This method seem to call for scratching the surface to get it to stick better. Then came resin an Photo Etched. The lates thing is decals. Now decals can look more scale and battle damage can be replicated easier. Down side you have to mess with decal set srtong and sometimes CA glue to keep edges down. Atak has a very nice set and I plan to use on my Gruppe Fehrmann Tiger. My thought are the battle damage will be easier to replicate by cutting out areas with the no11 blade before I apply them on. Look forward to more videos and your decision. Ps I manage to figure out the weld that looks more smushed...

[@alexanderking8612]

And I forgot about wood filler is another good way with zim tools...

[@natesturm448]

I plan on finishing this model in 2020 . . . . Buddy you got time in that quarantine xD.

[@loupiscanis9449]

Thank you , Martin .

[@youtublerxl]

To get nice Straight lines with the mkg putty and the zimmerit scribbing tool you can put a wooden or Metal plank on top and on bottom of your Panel that you want to add the zimmerit on, just a few Millimeters wider apart than the tool and use it as a Stop strip on every side where your tool gets guided Straight because you Touch the plank always on one side while you pull the tool along the plate.

[@Emtbtoday]

Iv started trying this too! Iv started with squanderions liquid putty and a razor saw blade Applyed it tona scrap bit of styrene and just dragged it in a onner so got the lines and then came back in with the vertical lines afterwards and its looking good but now try and apply it to smaller areas is going to be the challenge

[@billscott1601]

Zimmerit, that’s why I stick to aircraft or Allied vehicles.

[@El_Presidente_5337]

Well, the Zimmerit is optional.

[@alexx86hater]

Zimmerit was applied at quite limited timeframe: fall 1943 till late 1944 (?). Which means that a whole lot of German armor wouldn't have it. What's more fun is to have a silly Zimmerit pattern and a whitewash...

[@GrasshopperKelly]

Zimmerit WAS quite thick. It added a few dozen KG to many vehicals despite the spacing (patterns) of the second layers. There's a 5-8mm flat layer of the paste applied, before the additional 5-8mm patterned layers we're used to seeing was added ontop. 10-15mm of Barium sulfate, PVA, zinc sulfide and sawdust isn't light....

[@randomdudeontheinternet4389]

"Welcome back you beautiful people" Where have I heard that before? Hmm let me guess, you are watching GMBN too? :D Awesome video man!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

My secret love for Blake has been exposed 😂 I just think it's such a nice and positive opening line.

[@randomdudeontheinternet4389]

@@NightShiftScaleModels I mean, honestly, who doesn't love Blake.

[@ferb7452]

Hi try painting & weathering the test strips. That will give us a much better idea how they would adventurley look Love your work. Thankyou

[@handznet]

Oh cool. How I could miss this one🖤👌🏻

[@handznet]

And finally a german tank!!!😎

[@modelmagic9930]

I’ve been working on a Tiger 1 and my zimmerit attempt are absolutely shocking! I might redo it with some of these methods.

[@sk1r4]

7:45 LITTLE LIES, STUNNING SHOWS! I had to do that

[@peterbrown3608]

I've tried several different versions myself, Mr White Putty, Perfect Plastic Putty, Tamiya Standard Grey Putty, and Milliput standard yellow/grey. I've also tried a method used by Francois Verlinden, his method he uses a pyrograph (heating tool with various interchangeable tips) to carve the zimmerit pattern directly into the plastic of the model. I used the FV method on a Tamiya Panther many years ago, came out Ok but it is rather time consuming I find, and I didn't have a pyrograph so I made one out of a soldering iron, you need to be able to adjust the heat at the tip so it melts the plastic without putting holes in it, or the plastic getting "stringy". I also used that method on an old Tamiya Tiger I but I eventually came back to the unfinished model 30 years later and didn't like it, I eventually used two types of putty to replace it, I was kind of experimenting at the same time as actually applying it. It now has a combination of Tamiya standard grey and Milliput. I didn't find Mr White Putty or Perfect Plastic Putty any good for the purpose, I do like the Tamiya standard grey, it does dry a bit fast, Milliput is sticky, didn't like the talcum powder solution for rolling it out flat, so I applied it using a spatula to the desired thickness and did it in small patches at a time. I wasn't after a nice factory finish, I wanted it to be a bit messy looking, but using the Trumpeter zimmerit tool helps to flatten it out a bit and even the surface. Oh, nearly forgot, I did try the Tamiya zimmerit stick on method for the Tiger I, which is the old 1970's version, not one of their more up-to-date new moldings. Didn't like the stickers at all, they firstly don't actually fit on the old kit so I was cutting them up and applying in pieces. I eventually just pulled them off and threw them away because ultimately they were just horrible. Haven't tried any of the resin zimmerit kits available. Overall I like both the Tamiya putty and Milliput methods, it didn't turn out too badly but it's all in the eye of the beholder, I thought yours looked quite good even though you weren't too happy with the result.

[@RJ-fm2bd]

If you put a straight edge above and below the panel, you can drag the zimmerit blade along it to keep the lines straight.

[@TheKrzy65siek]

Have you tried ATAK resin zimmeritt? It is resin but you can sand it to thickness you like. I used It once, and I really liked it.

[@jlpytlewski]

Use liquid nails adhesive instead of Tamiya putty.

[@jonathanfernandez4430]

I've used Tamiya two-part Polyester Putty with the scribing "rake" tools, which I think worked pretty well. Its pretty diluted and sticks to panels, so works well with the rake tools. But you have to work in sections since it dries in 5 minutes or so. After it dries, its pretty easy to chip it off to simulate battle damage. Just be sure to do it in a well ventilated area, because that putty can stink...

[@dominicdeeley5722]

To be honest I watched for your methods on how to apply and gain what knowledge you have. I wound not have thought of the epoxy putty. The only other one I’ve seen would be using wood putty.

[@brantmorrison3704]

Trying to simulate Zimmerit (and not liking the results) has probably led me to abandon more model builds than anything else. The rolling tool at 7:00 seemed to do a respectable job for that style of Zimmerit. Much better than stamps I've used to shape Zimmerit. I'll have to try shaving the raised details off the plastic and re-glue them after applying Zimmerit. Good video! One of the first things I ever tried was spackling compound (used for minor repairs on plaster walls). Epoxy putty works much better for Zimmerit on models, though I am sure there are many other opinions about it..

[@MultiStokes1]

Have you tried pulling the scraper towards you in order to get straighter horizontal lines in each segment?

[@ronaldsorrell203]

Hay Milli put works well and it can be rolled thin on your table just use water to rid of sticky situation and roll out. once water evaporates it gets sticky again. this should work great.

[@Superfrogggg]

Wow thank you.you really did it👍👍👍

[@rfletch62]

I had good luck with Squadron Green Stuff in a tube, back in the '80's. Used a hacksaw blade for 1/35 scale Jagpanther.

[@willthorson4543]

My first zimmerit try was ridiculous. Tamiya 1/16 Porsche king tiger. I used Tamiya polyester putty. That stuff worked great but I got pretty high using it. Lol...that's the last time...way back in 1999. I'll stick to atak zimmerit. I know my limitations. Haha, but saying that, it actually looked pretty good, my modeling buddies liked it. I never finished it, but it definitely was an experience.

[@GaryNumeroUno]

I suppose if I was a forced labour prisoner not getting paid, living in squalor on one meal a day and applying zimmerit to a tank in my oppressors factory I would not care if the strokes in the material were level or not either! Great video and very informative... I'll keep it in mind if I end up in an Iranian tank factory!

[@jimtaylor294]

On Putty: Tried Humbrol's version, or Milliput yet? (both are quite highly thought of in my country)

[@martincsanadi747]

Great Clip!

[@kevinkelly6524]

2 part epoxy (I use knead a tite) with the Trumpeter zimmerit tools. I use a smooth (not knurled)X-Acto blade knife (no blade int it Lol) with lots of water as a rolling pin to get it thin enough. I roll the epoxy out in a “string” to the length of the surface I want to put it on, then trim the excess. I like your tip of wetting the wheel, I’ll try that next time. My favorite method is to buy the Tamiya self adhesive zim which comes out Fabulous, but isn’t available for everything. If it’s available (only Tamiya kits) it’s my first choice.

[@abainbridge89]

I don't do scale models like this, more warhammer and other wargaming models of usually people and such.. but your channel is great and I want to go out and buy a miniature tank to build and paint

[@WiltonMeloBarbosa]

Is there a video listing all materials need to building, painting and weathering models? Thank you!

[@bluef1sh926]

Hello from Poland :D

[@blizzard_of_moz]

DAP spackling paste and a small piece of fine hacksaw blade. Drying time allows for good workability. Easier to flake off than epoxy or other putties.

[@williammarshall6544]

Martin, please give us a list of the process you use, Step 1 to ?, as I am not sure when to chip and when to do what in what order, this would help a lot, thanks for the videos, they are great and help allot!

[@Bartyron]

I think it works better if you lay the part flat on the table in stead of holding in your hand. And from the original photo's i see irregular patterns also so it should not be pristine i guess Love your tips and tricks! ...

[@johnwineman9363]

I've seen Elmer's wood putty and a serrated packing tape blade or saw blade do a good job. Might give that a try

[@aarontwintowers]

Try using "perfect plastic putty" by deluxe materials, it stays wet and soft long enough to apply to a whole pannel and still allows you to mould the lines into it.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

Nightshift you can use tamiya white epoxy putty ,its much softer than the standard one

[@alexx86hater]

You can try method with using Zimmerit Tool (the metal one) but instead of using putty that would eat into the model try something that wouldn't. I use Elmer's Wood Filler. It has quite smooth texture, takes long to dry (overnight ) but you have enough time to not be rushed by fast drying putty and the most important -- it is water soluble so if you don't like or it got in to the places you don't want it to get: you just was the area with water (battle damage could be also done like that). There should be some other products like that in your area. Worst case scenario you can try Vallejo water soluble putty or Perfect Plastic Putty to see if this is going to work.

[@Webby2020]

Would it be possible to use polycement on the bare plastic and use a scriber tool or roller to create the effect? No putty at all

[@LuckyAssult]

you should try milliput. the advantage of putty, well being able to easily spread it into a thin layer.

[@pwnedbyscope]

Would you be able to put the putty on something like wax paper or parchment or possibly a teflon coated surface to flatten it out? Then apply the baby powder to the top surface to so it doesnt stick to what you use to flatten it and it would prevent it from sticking to the little roller tool

[@meismagiic4779]

Kneadatite green stuff is some of the best for this.

[@tonyennis3008]

Design a zimmerit pattern in a 3D modeling tool and 3D print a Zimmerit stamp. Roll the epoxy, apply the stamp. You'd need several different stamps so repeating patterns aren't a problem.

[@Custerd1]

Have you tried thinning Tamiya putty ? Maybe it won’t dry so quickly?

[@ukdiecasttrackrace8755]

Maybe a tight comb might work? There will be more room for the scraped out putty to get out of the way possibility

[@huangroot3791]

Did you sand the surface roughly before apply the two part putty?This will make putty stick to the surface more firmly.(according to the instruction in its box :))

[@annanbejat1578]

The best putty for making zimmerit is actually not a modelling product, it's called "Wood Putty" it's waterbased means it dries slow and also bonds nicely on to the surface of your model. Try it😁

[@Frakfayt]

Hi.Have you tried milliput?It is quite sticky...

[@XkeysmasherX]

Hi what is the blue brush thingy, water? How do I remove it?can I still paint /prime it after zimmerting it? Thanks!

[@CKOD]

Would a bit of dish soap in the water used to lube the roller help? I dont know how it would affect the surface, but if water doesn't soak into the epoxy, it shouldn't soak the soap in either, so you should be able to gently clean it afterwards if its causing paint adhesion problems.

[@Rook9696]

are there larger area type stamps?

[@Dreg0]

have you heard anything about zimmerit decals?

[@romalevin999]

Having the same questions... i didnt try it out yet - but I am thinking to mix Tamiya putty with some liquid cement to make it workable for a bit more time and a lil bit more fluid - will get back and tell you how is that going.

[@XPSChaos]

Would the putty stick better to the surface if you sanded it first a bit?

[@LoneEagle2061]

I don't know Tamiya putty; but I'm familiar with Milliput and Kneadatite blue-yellow (aka Green Stuff). If the Tamiya behaves like the Kneadatite then one possibility might simply be to roll it, apply it... and then let it cure for half an hour, maybe an hour. In sculpting textures in Kneadatite it is often best to leave the surface to cure to a firmer level (though still able to take texture obviously). I can't say if it would behave much better in the thicknesses you're aiming for; but give it a go. I'm also going to agree on keying the surface more - but only once you've found a technique which works for you.

[@janmaderholz8613]

I suggest you to try a putty from Vallejo it is water-based, so it is much easier to work on and also to remove, with this you can achieve a much thinner Zimmerit, I alredy worked with it does have a great appearance in both case ( Batle damage and coming out of the assambly line)

[@merrick3627]

The roller technique looked great. As far as bonding to the model, have you tried sanding the surface to give it something to grab onto?

[@Jw-qo8pn]

HI UNCLE NIGHT SHIFT !!!!!!!!!😁

[@franktyphoon98]

martin, maybe you can try to use baking paper for rolling the epoxy putty instead of baby powder, this way it will be a lot cleaner

[@jordyncollier919]

I went back to watch this a few more times lol.

[@Hacckyy]

is using wall putty good enough?