My Greatest Achievement in Croatia: a Seat on the Dalmatian Bench

Life in Dalmatia is amazing. The pace of life, the polako, the pomalo, the laganini.
Over the years, I became fixated with the wise elders of Jelsa, as they gathered each evening on the white bench under the Mayor's office to discuss the weighty matters of the day.
I can't explain it but I became a little bit obsessed, and all I wanted was an invitation to sit with them on the bench, an honour that is never bestowed upon foreigners, I was assured.
And then one day, after 13 years...
****
Like our videos and want to see more? Be part of the story by buying me a coffee or something stronger ko-fi.com/paulbradbury
Want to learn more about the realities of living in this flawed but majestic country? Our new book, Croatia, a Survival Guide for Foreigners is now available on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Croatia-Surviv...
Video produced by Igor Vuk of Wolf Media.
For your daily dose of Croatia, check out www.total-croatia-news.com
Follow Paul Bradbury on LinkedIn - www.linkedin.com/in/paul-brad...

[M K]

OMG, you're amazing Paul! I laughed so much, nostalgia, happiness, simplicity, humour.... all in a couple of minutes. You seem to capture the essence of Croatian culture so precisely by pointing out the little quirks 🤣🤣🤣

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks - lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[M K]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert already subscribed 🙂

[DenisPK]

Paul you are our best ambassador. I've been following you on YT for a while now and I'm so impressed by your creativity and love for our country. This story was sad and funny at the same time. "Ej, Debeli Englez" 🤣 (btw. you've lost lots of kgs since then:), and sad since remind me of benches and places in my own small town Tisno, on island Murter where old people use to sit and - just do nothing. Benches are long gone, places become public spaces and people has changed. So, thank you Paul for this story and evoking my memories. Keep doing what you doing, You are bigger Croat then most of us. Cheers!

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Thanks for your comment - lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[Vladimir Alaša]

Kao dijete sam bio tako ponosan na taj način komunikacije ljudi na otocima i osjetio sam isto što i vi.Ja sam iz kontinentalnog dijela i to je bilo za mene prelijepo. Sve je manje te atmosfere.,nažalost.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

It is really special in my opinion.

[Anđelko Opačak]

Bravo Paul, uočio si i izdvojio nešto izvanredno, što mi ne uočavamo, jer nam je prirodno, a ipak tako posebno i lijepo. Život je sazdan od ovih malih, lijepih stvari.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks - lots more coming if you want to subscribe

[Zele]

Bench = local politics. The mayor does not like the opposition :)

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha

[Kamenko Šimunović]

Thanky you Paul, you are very contributing man in croatian social life. Your videos are quite good and I enjoy to watch them. What you resent in the life in Croatia, most of Croats resent too. Stay one of us and good luck!

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Thanks, it is nice to be here. Lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[Ruza Ruzica]

I listened with admiration and I laughed so hard at the end 😅 # Klupa zivi vjecno “👏💗🍀. Sad si pravi Dalmosh 👌 Greetings from Great Lakes area

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks

[omertaala]

Ah yes, the famous dalmatian benches 😂, but did you here about the best security cameras in the world?, better known as slavonian grandmas on windows 😂😂😂

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Yep, they are the best

[osk]

Ako ne znam kada sam navecer dosao kuci (dok sam bio mlad, u osijeku) samo pitam babu pored mene sto zivi i odmah saznam i kada sam dosao i kako i sa cim i sa kim i sve ostalo 😂😂😂😂

[Nenad Bach]

#KlupaZiviVjecno I simply LOVE IT. Knowing a little bit about you, the benches are coming back. Probably the new ones. They don't know the force of nature that they are facing. BRAVO PAUL!

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

#KZV

[Prodeopatria]

Even we don't understand our essence in some things like you... 😉👍 Love this channel...

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks - lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[Mladen Ivosevic]

Something similar could be find all over the Croatia, but in small towns or villages. In Slavonija, especially Eastern Slavonija where houses are mostly placed on sides of one long road you can still see benches in front of every old house. In other places such bench is usually placed in front (or side of) village's store (usually the only one). In general - it depends of 'urban planning ' of particular place, so it could be place where most of the people circulates daily, or the place most convenient for little chatting.... Younger settlers usually visiting local pubs / caffes for same reason, but older once (used to) prefer some bench(es) like one you talking about.

[M P]

But none of those can beat the dalmatian bench 😎😋😉😉🤗

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Yes true, but there is something special about the Dalmatian bench

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

True story

[Mladen Ivosevic]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert I would take your word for it! And I'm glad you managed to get this 'bench invitation '! It is always hard for 'not local' (meaning that you have to have some generational roots at that place first), but for the total foreigner (different country, different nation) - thi IS a real achievement!

[Apartments Miroslav Vojnović]

Svako malo misto ima svoju bench 😎👍! Veliki pozdrav iz Duca and keep going 👋😊!

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

It is a really lovely part of Dalmatian culture - i love it.

[Antonia Dobrota]

Congrats! It is the greatest achievement indeed. We call it the Ministry of other people's affairs on our island! #KlupaŽiviVječno

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

The Ministry, headquartered at Kod Damira - we will have a video about Stari Grad soon #KZV

[marko trzun]

Love the bench. Really special concept, the smaller town it is the more important the bench is. It reflects the truth and reality much better than any new media. I remember a particular bench remark given the first Covid summer from a bench close to the only store in Šipanska Luka on the tiny island of Šipan (Elaphites close to Dubrovnik). At the time there were possibly 20 tourists max on the island in total (due to covid ofc, and most were "local" tourists, meaning people that own houses there) and the island is connected to Dubrovnik via 2 ship lines per day, so most likely one of the safest places on the planet NOT to get Covid. An elderly local was walking by the bench in order to get to the store while the regulations obliged everyone to wear face masks in public places, which was absolutely not enforced on the island (for obvious reasons). The bench asked the guy: "Jure, jesi olvida brnjicu?" (Jure, have you forgotten your muzzle?) 🤣

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha vrh

[Zdenko Podrug]

Great video as always Paul, capturing the essence of character and island life. If i may, i would like to contribute an additional hashtag to your noble KlupaZiviVjecno campaign: #NijeTiĆaćina I believe it would at least get the mayors attention..

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha

[Mia P]

This is funny to me. I'm from Zagreb, but I used to spend my summers in Pitve with my grandma, and we frequently visited Jelsa for shopping. And I sat on that bench as a kid often when waiting for grandma to buy bread. Had no idea I wasn't supposed to hah.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

haha. Summers in Pitve must have been bliss

[Stjepan Nekić]

3:29 That's photo from Ivankovo in Slavonija if I'm right? Who'd know that you visited this calm village in Slavonija. Next time around, make sure to announce so we can sit on the bench or go for a drink! In Slavonija however, bench culture is not as developed as in coastal areas. Since I'm from Senj where old guys traditionally gather at seafront or on old main square, I noticed some differences. First, people in Ivankovo enjoy bench talking but only in summer, when it's warmer and only in front of houses. So basically, along the street there's one bench for about 6-7 houses so all neighbours gather on the bench (or around it) in the evening and contemplete about day, life or politics. Second, Ivankovo is filled with security cameras. For example, once you get guests, komšinice (neighnours - grandmas usually) watch through their windows trying to catch as much info about guests. Once I came here to visit my girlfriend, every komšinica was interested in me, where I'm from, why am I there etc.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Well spotted - we even have an article on Ivankovo - fun little place - www.total-croatia-news.com/lifestyle/59618-ivankovo

[Crash Ryan Photography]

Ah yes .. the bench! Does every village in Croatia have a bench where the old guard hangs out? On our little island of Ugljan, the benches aren't as big and prominent as yours in Hvar, but the old gents do manage to find a chair, rock or any portion of a broken wall to gather and talk shop. FYI: On Ugljan, there is a group that has been creating benches for each village. The benches are covered in colorful mosaic tiles and each one tries to represent the vibe of that village. I posted a video a while ago, "Making the Ceprljanda Bench", that shows one of the benches being created. It really is a nice thing to watch as these artists bring a bench to life.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

It is more a dalmatian thing. Cool about your benches. Can u post vid link

[Crash Ryan Photography]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Sadly it's a very short video. I wish I could've gotten there earlier, but here it is : kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaaTkmN8gqmSn6c

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

@Crash Ryan Photography very cool. Wil do article on tcn when i get a min. Tx!

[Crash Ryan Photography]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert By the way, we love TCN. Much to my parents dismay, I can't speak the Croatian language, so thank you for bringing us Croatian news in English!

[cinilaknedalm]

Places that get rid of public benches just to accommodate a business soon loose what made them great. Especially places like this, where the public benches are such an important social element for the locals. They should feel at home where they're from, not get pushed out by tourist driven greed

[Mel Jandric]

True. Unfortunately this is happening in too many places, if it continues this way Croatia will eventually turn into just another generic tourist destination, it will lose it's soul. It's not just a bench, it's the soul of the town. BTW Paul, the fact that you accepted "Debeli Englez" title without being offended means you are one of us. 🥧Welcome.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Totally agree

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha, well more people call me Ludi Englez on Hvar, but to get a nickname is a sign of acceptance I think

[cinilaknedalm]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert ti si već njihov tamo duuuugo vremena, u to sam siguran :)

[Josipa G]

O, we as kids called that Dolina mozgova. Every single place in Dalmatia has it. And is not a bench for beer for locals to drink, or something like that. It is Dnevnik, but of the place. Kronika naseg malog mista, without the writing part.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Lovely

[Marko Božić]

Bravo to you, we appreciate it..

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

You are welcome. Lots more coming if you want to subscribe

[Josip Barcic]

i think we meet in Split and Brač , and we had conversation about enchovies.Respect you are Croat and thank you for being our trully.S poštovanjem Josip.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Thanks. It is possible but i dont recall having a conversation about anchovies in my life.

[Vjekoslav Vnucec]

Amazing content Paul, best From Zagreb :)

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Thank you! Lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[Vjekoslav Vnucec]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Subscribed along ago.

[Stefan Smilkovski]

if all goes well im supose to go to Zadar for work, im in high hope that il meet all this wonderfull people that you talk about in all your videos, as for the food and drinks its all the same in ex YU (the best their IS)

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Good luck. Zadar is great and there is a growing community of returnees. You can meet some of them and hear their stories here - kzbin.info/aero/PLhIdFRAG5u6kXdEm_7qTAy6xtfBHFuywX

[Prosper4ward Ubbi]

Well, you have one of the biggest english speaking newssites in Croatia where some of the content is lets say, typically westernized. The type of talks about politics,race, economy and women, feminism just to mention some of the articles on your site, which I have read is not "typically croatian" and croatian problems in the way it is in other western countries. Croatia has a long history of war , fight for independence and we are still mostly catholic, so there is a different way of being and understanding amongst us and each other when it comes to these topics that a foreigner can find hard to understand for instance, from my own observations. And I guess the same goes for other countries as well, but Croatia is very unique in several ways. And you and some the writers on your site write like they do because you are british or because you think some topics are good to bring up, like you know people do, bring up topics that they find important for good or bad reasons. Or because you want to influence the country in a certain way like a spy would. You can also be a normal person that enjoys Croatia and what it has to offer, and you do actually write useful articles and do some great promotion for the country as well ☺so Im not saying you are definitely are a spy. And I encourage and like to see what people from other cultures have to say about Croatia and I like that people can and do express themselves so that is completely fine. Finally, I mean USA have spies that are sent to cause political shifts in other countries which is not a secret, and they do not usually look like James Bond, and the brits might know the most about imperialism than any country in the world. That is why people can think the way they do of you 👌

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha vrh. Actually i am the only one at tcn who is not either wholly or part Croatian

[percymonster1]

Excellent story, probably the same kind of guys who congregate on Sunday to play boulles, but didn’t we have the in the Uk too? I think they were called pubs 😂

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha true story

[J J]

Haha This is brilliant. Svaka čast

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks

[dragan stosic]

Paul, great story! Since you mentioned "Klupa Zivi Vjecno", I must add , "Hajduk Zivi Vjecno" !

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha true story

[Mel Jandric]

Ha ha ha, I was laughing until I learned they removed the bench. 🤬

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Yes, very sad story. Maybe one day...

[Marijana Erceg]

Another characteristic Dalmatians have is their directness and lack of political correctness- mainly the older generation as they don’t see the point of sugar coating stuff. They just say it as it is. I should know I’ve been subject to it many times by my relatives. So the comment of “ debeli inglez “ would be a scandal in other places.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

I much prefer brutal and direct communication. It saves so much time.

[ka ni]

I just love English humour

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha, thanks

[Borna.chillout]

Excellent story 😁

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Bench life IS excellent

[Nenad Bach]

How much does it cost to bring the new ones? I think that in less than 24 hours there will be enough Kunas, ups Euros to get the new and everlasting benches.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Not much but the location is no longer available

[Sioma Volon]

13 years 🤣 I am feeling sorry for you Paul🙈

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

haha, it was quick - I was thrilled.

[Imre Weiss]

Sjajna priča!

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks. Lots more coming if you want to subscribe.

[Imre Weiss]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Već jesam! Lepi pozdrav!

[Dino Haber]

Hahaha, "Uo,Debeli englez!" Yes ,we "Boduli" are very careful with our words.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

More common on hvar is Ludi Englez

[ka ni]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert that's a compliment though.

[Matej Bebe]

You in Croatia and i in England....❤

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

And I feel I made the smarter move...

[Matej Bebe]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Yes you are...But standard in England ( Lancaster) it's very good 👍...And it's is beautiful city .....But yes ours Croatia is beautiful ❤️

[Ivan Jukić]

3:30 you where in my village Ivankovo sitting on bench across church... 😂❤

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Ivankovo has a great bench tourism future - nice place

[Marko Petrunić]

Wait 'till you discover croatian surveillance system. Baba's on windows watching your every move, who you talk to, what you do.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha, yes, I have been under surveillance for over 20 years now. I can't do anything in this country without it being reported back.

[Marko Petrunić]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert so MI6 it is.

[John John]

Guess Bench replaced "Zidić" since I have gone.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

The Bench v the Zidic. Would love to have more local input on that one.

[Leo]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Zidic is for young people, teenagers. The Bench is for mature, 'wise' people.

[Josipa G]

​@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Zidic is for drinking and chatting, spending time, but it is not the same thing.

[Igor Svačić]

Mr Paul, you have pretty unique mind. You notice a lot of things WORTH NOTICING that almost everyone else wouldnt. And Im not talking about things you would notice simply as a foreigner, things that are peculiar to you, due to culture differences etc, Im talking indeed about this bench thing, or similar stuff, it is a thing that really has a value, the local običaj, that is so deeply rooted and a VERY important part of life. Hats off

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Twisted maybe, but not sure about unique. But one would hope I would notice a thing or two living 13 years on an island.

[Igor Svačić]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert its the last name I guess, I remember vaguely Ive red some twisted horror book from a guy named Bradbury. It was Ray if I remember correctly so, its in the family XD

[Kris M]

No bench, no probs, bring a chair.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Nooo - it is the bench or nothing

[DAD]

Lord Bradbury, Lord Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Jelsa. (Yeh, I know it's a trans-Atlantic amalgam ... bašme briga!)

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha

[nothing]

whats youre opinion on other balkan countrys

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

You are saying Croatia is in the Balkans?

[cinilaknedalm]

@Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert Slovenia is in the Balkans, nevermind Croatia xD

[tutaruta jonelova]

My thought exactly! What does he mean by saying “OTHER Balkan countries”. Slovenia, Croatia, even B&H are not Balkan countries… Gee, what small countires have to go through! It was the lazy Germans who started calling the whole area “the Balkans” and it doesn’t matter if it makes sense, it remained. Btw the Bulgarians are equally annoyed by the abuse of the name of one of their mountains for the whole of SEE

[Ante L]

Slovenia, Croatia and BiH especially Croats HercegBosna in BiH are not balkan geografic and mentality. Croatia is middle south Europe and with our part of Adriatic sea, part of western Mediterian Country, Its not politic its facts of west mentality and way of living. Example traditional "Klapa" music ha ha is not cajke, Big Big diferent. Klapa is basic same like western Country Gospel in USA. Greece have beautiful Sirtaki like instrumental dance we on west have " Klapa's" songs like two little diferent kind of mediterian culture. If you mix that with balkan's cajke you have bad wine ' kvasina' on Croatia Dalmatia and that is brainwashing for Croats, we Croat's saying ,' iša si na kvasinu' mean you going on bad wine. From bad wine 'kvasina' you cant recognise or understand Croat's. When turist came in Croatia and dont recognised reall Croats they didnt reall had felt mainly level of joy and rest on Holliday. When we defending our culture we pushing western turist in better understanding what is our traditional way of living and history gift for them. You Short mind. If you are to smart I dont need answer from you but do you understand history Greatness tradition and culture of Great Britain like part of Great western Europian Kingdom's what defended Western and discovered World for us ? Dont need answer from you just think.

[Ante L]

Paul original is " Nije preša "

[Rafaela &hama]

I like it how in split klupa is šentada.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

I didnt know. Thanks!

[Marino Mašina]

vijece mudrih !

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

haha, istina

[Kamadev888]

Gotta love the English dry wit, Paul.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Lots more coming if you want to survive

[Gabrijela B.]

Island wikipedia!!🤣🤣🤣

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Is there any better source of info?

[Tom Relic]

Can't watch it. Your in politics? Bench?

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Premieres at 19:53 - about 90 mins

[rio Babic]

Simple things are usually the most important !

[Marin Mamic]

oh, we love you paul !

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha thanks

[sasa separovic]

Instead a wisdom stone, Jelšani have a bench..I know what you talking about and have to say that its huge achievement. Klupa zivi vjecno is perfect slogan considering importance of Hajduk. Hope it works out. If Mayor should read this...alo tikvane farski..učes u povjest Jelse ka budala. Minjaj dok moš. Vrati klupu di joj je misto. Karma je jebena stvar

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

Haha

[Zdenko Pecirep]

Pathetic, but funny also.

[Paul Bradbury Croatia Expert]

I'll take that