My Top Spray Can Terrain Tips!

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In this Mel's Top Tips vid, I take you through the tip and techniques for getting great results from your spray can primers when working on your wargames terrain.
We cover the basics of spray paints, types, uses, prep, good practice, clean up, as well as some wargamining / terrain specific techniques and I share how I seal without worrying about frosting!
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[@HighEyeWorkshop]

I love how excited you get about things, even spray cans. You rock, Mel.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

I just love this hobby mate!

[@MrJudder413]

Man I'm so glad you are back. What's funny is I binge watch your videos to relax at night. I have never played RPG or mad any kind of terrain or anything but I have been watching you for years and you have gotten me through some rough times. Probably strange but it is what it is . I used to build models so all your techniques are firmilar. Just want to say thank you for being you!

[@carinhuber2570]

Thank you so much for this info! It explains where I went wrong with some of the craft projects I've had spray can problems with over the years. No more fogging, no more runs. You're awesome, Mel!

[@JaguarInfinity]

To warm and shake my cans I tend to run the hot tap. Shake the can for a bit while the water warms up then run it over the can for about 10 seconds and shake. You quickly feel that heat disappear. Keep repeating until you feel the can no longer cooling down as much as you shake it. What's happening is, as you shake the contents of the can, the heat is absorbed by the contents and it cools the cans surface again. When the can no longer feels like it's cooling down when shaking you know it's heated through and you can avoid overheating because you only do this until it's at a temperature comfortable to hold. Plus you've been shaking it all along so you have a well shaken, warmed through can ready to use.

[@neilchallis9147]

Mel, I think it's worth mentioning that if you're fast enough, you can reverse the 'frosting' with a quick blast of gloss varnish. You can then re-matt varnish at a later time.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

top tip mate

[@Hobbyrepubliken]

Watched this vid with my 3-year old and she is upset that you dont have an apron on in your workshop because you might get paint on you 😂❤️

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Tell her I have a special set of studio clothes that I wear so I don't get paint on my good clothes mate ;-)

[@ChiseledDiamond]

Thanks for mentioning the thing with working outside! A lot of people don't use respirators/work outside or ventilate well!

[@joshjohnston7388]

It can get too cold for spray paint where I live. I primarily model, so I often end up with a backlog of stuff to take outside when I get a warm day in winter. Even heating the garage and spraying in there is no darn good. Outside only. I can envision making a DIY basement extraction booth, but I still doubt it would be good enough. If I fumigate the whole house, I'll never hear the end of it.

[@philipwilcox6737]

Just want to say thanks, man. While we work in different scales ( i'm a 1/18 guy, gijoe specifically), and I work predominately with wood for durability and playability, a lot of your techniques translate really well to my projects. So thanks! Keep em coming!

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

I do em all, really. I have action figures to put in dioramas, 1/35 models, 28mm wargaming stuff... there's always something to learn from each other hobbyists, it just needs conversion sometimes and obviously a wash for example isn't as usefull as an easy way out in 1/18 as it is in 28mm. You would use it rather for weathering details like weapons for instance when wargamers would slap it on to shade a whole figure sometimes. Keep an open mind, buddy, that's how we achieve greatness.

[@codybailey1216]

Been using cans for years...little did I realize how much better these small adjustments in prep and technique could make. Thank you and keep it up.

[@johnfenney2493]

A brilliant tutorial. Great advice delivered with good humour. Thanks.

[@samueljackson2737]

Thank you so much for your incredible videos- just became a Patreon. I'm currently using extruded foam for a huge CNC project and it's safe to say your painting advice has saved my project!!! This kind of information sharing is beyond meaningful and appreciated for artists like myself. You can't find it anywhere else!

[@rstrahan]

Regarding textured spray paint: I've found that priming grey, then a spray of Krylon Natural Stone (the 'granite' color) with a black wash makes for a quick and easy concrete effect that is very durable. I've mostly this for urban scatter terrain bases and plastic buildings that had no texture on the interior, but I can verify that it works great on metal washers, plasticard, and popcicle sticks as well as injection molded plastic.

[@50Caldemigod]

It's refreshing as a painter to see others in different hobbies understanding paint and it's properties. I'm a beginner terrain/ miniature painter. Translating pinstriping, lettering, and painting cars or signs to tiny buildings and furniture is tricky. Especially going through the prep process or explaining to hobby shops. These videos are amazing and insightful.

[@Runehorn]

Great video! Learned more than I thought it would was possible to learn about spray paint!

[@Daniel_Montenegro]

I'm new to the hobby and this was a MasterClass for me. Thanks a lot, Tutor!

[@bugler75]

What a fantastically informative video! Thank you very much

[@basicminiaturepainting]

Awesome stuff mate,really cool video on something we take for granted

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Glad you found it useful mate

[@andylancop]

Great tutorial on can mechanics. Well Done.

[@TrainsandDioramas]

Awesome back to basics! I’ve always been a little afraid of warming spray cans, but I’ll give it a try after watching this.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Hope it helps mate

[@Krefey]

Learned something new today! Thanks Mal!

[@Slaanesh1000]

Definitely learned something from that re can maintenance. Interesting point though. In Sydney, during the summer you'd think 40 degrees would be warm enough to spray. however we also get humidity levels above 80% so it is not just cold weather situations that develop moisture in the air. Even worse if someone saw you with a heater over your paint can in 40 degree heat they would lock you up as a nutter. By the way, love the enthusiasm, keep it going.

[@garryeckert5929]

Great as usual. Keep it up mate.

[@brabopainter8282]

Great vid, thanks for all the tips. You are awesome mate!

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Hope it helps you bud

[@Xaltotun]

Mel, you are the best!

[@joshjohnston7388]

Be careful warming the cans. I left one in warm water for a good ten minutes (I had to take a call), and when I shook it, the punt in the bottom ballooned out. It didn't explode and I've continued to use the paint (it's fine), but it's distressing to shake a paint can and have it go PUNG in your hand.

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

Sounds like you took warm very literal. Grafitti cans are usually made to operate under any weather condition, but still the optimal is on a shiny summer day. So the temperature you're looking for might be around 30-40° Celsius not more to make any paint flow best. I'd say from reading warning prints on other spray cans that anything over 50° C would be very risky and personally, I would not try to go over 40 anyway. Luke warm should probably be the term used.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

I think I'd of thrown it off like a grenade mate!

[@notreallydavid]

@@TheTerrainTutor I know I would. Kinell.

[@MrPixiestyx]

great tutorial and some good information. thanks.

[@thebrewgeek]

Great info all around. Warming my spray cans has really helped. I'm still looking for a good white primer that will go down smoothly. I

[@ryanhampton2352]

Absolutely need this video ❤ i dislike airbrushes so i always use rattle cans so this has been verry helpful

[@ryanhampton2352]

Also there are many points in this video that are very helpfull and also make alot of sence after thinking about it, alot of your point seem very simple but are the basics that i myself and others forget or dont even know I have wondered many times why my can has not been working properly P.s. your an absolute legend and your may main supplier of ideas and inspiration

[@edwinacoffman6429]

Thank you I really needed this one lol

[@jimblack790]

Great video, thanks

[@stephenrenwick8781]

Cunning idea using a heat gun to remove moisture in the air. Cheers for sharing that.

[@wells5150]

I've been using Plasikote for years here in the States.👍

[@vasili1207]

The term for luke warm water is Tepid water ...... If people Google that it give you a temp range. I used to keep fish and had to google Tepid Aswell 😜

[@teknomancer6024]

A friend suggested a pistol grip, I thought I'd try one, generally a great idea, you still have good control, yet you don't get paint on your fingertips...

[@RC1207Sev]

Great tips!

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

What's great about grafitti cans is there are ones with low and high pressure. It helped my spray can work a lot to use the low pressure ones (I use Montana Gold mostly) and have a variety of different caps handy that allow you to do finer or bolder lines. Combined with some good masking tape and Maskol liquid, also with the help of transparent paints (I like Molotov for the palette) you can get a whole new variety of jobs done, even on small objects and don't waste too much paint as well. There are even pure Aceton cans, so you can put the caps on and clean them after use. The curing thing is the most important factor also for using different types of paints on the same piece, really. If you spray, always use very thin layers building up and give each layer a few minutes to gas out. Then, when your color is done, give it at least 24 hours in a warm venitilated area to fully cure before you do anything else. There's nothing wrong with using acrylics on enamel or the other way round if the layers are dry and cured and there's no chemical in it that will need long enough to evaporate so it will attack the layer under it. I understand though, that some paints might have a more glossy finish and that you might have to sand before adding another layer for instance, especially if you thin your paint and apply it by brush. So it's more like knowing what is going to happen and testing combinations before use, but it is totally possible. If you want to avoid that, your version is totally legit.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

I'll have to have more of a play mate

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

@@TheTerrainTutor Who doesn't? lol Always looking foreward to the new ideas you're developing, mate.

[@fabudinfabudin7361]

great tutorial!

[@stefankuchmeister1875]

Hi, new to your channel, thius has been really usefull. Subbed.

[@drewbakka5265]

>wonder why he is indoors spraying >remember English weather Oh

[@TheTerrainTutor]

oh yes

[@plasticbutcher]

Great video Mel, lots of awesome tips, I've used the pre shading on full size cars before, my question is what was the piece you were using for the zenith priming? Thank you for the great tutorials, Rick B aka Plastic butcher

[@TheTerrainTutor]

It was a 3d print I had sent to me ages ago, not sure who from soz

[@darrenmcnally82]

Great video have you tried the Poundland spray cans

[@Inherent_Deterrent]

would you recommend spraying something like the necromunda dark uprising set? or just bite the bullet and drybrush it?

[@BadlanderOutsider]

Lots of great tips in the video; however I've moved away from using spray cans for painting anything. Priming is done via gesso for me and airbrushing handles anything I need a spray for.

[@MrStingray075]

Always took spray cans for granted and wondered why sometimes I get misting. Thanks for de-mistifying that for me (pun intended). Where I live it is currently -10 degrees but very low humidity. Was curious if low temp but low humidity would still be okay to spray or would I need a heat gun to raise the temp a little?

[@TheTerrainTutor]

I honestly don't know mate

[@dougsundseth6904]

Heat gun plus spray paint --> Flamethrower! Woot! Use some care if you don't want this result. (Though I can't imagine why _that_ would be.)

[@kinger7727]

What is the filler you use on foam for be able the spray paint it

[@floriankrix9150]

Nice video. I'm working on some bolt action tanks and terrain for my new gaming table. And im stuck in making banners, espacilly for my tiger 1 tank. I've just seen a battlefield V trailer and I saw, that they put some flags on their tanks. Could you please make a tutorial about this, because i really want to finish this tank

[@floriankrix9150]

I' ve looked or the trailer and in germany its called "Battlefield V - offizieller Launch - Trailer" and the scene where you can see the tank,is about 0:07 -0:09

[@sjrailroad1101]

Great video. BUT, be careful with heat guns and paint fumes. You could get an unexpected flame thrower. Or worse, an explosion.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

You'd need an ignitor or naked flame for flame thrower mate ;-D

[@luisangel9881]

DUDE WHAT ABOUT THE HALLOWEEN ALTAR PART 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Sooooon :-D

[@RicheUK]

Great tips Mel!!! Can I ask what you would recommend to prime Plywood, balsa wood for Acrylic paints? My apologies if you have answered this, it's just I'm a new subscriber and I'm catching up on your vids :)

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

Since he does rattle cans on MDF, I don't think he'd do those any different. Especially if you sand it, you might not even need any primer. I've been painting small pieces straight on with acrylics and it worked fine.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

you don't really need to prime them, priming is mainly for metal/plastic which acrylics can struggle to stick to, acrylic will key into wood without any priming mate

[@RicheUK]

@@TheTerrainTutor Thx Mel

[@RicheUK]

@@IntergalacticApeMan thanks for the reply

[@lesliebeilby-tipping6854]

What about the crackle paints, great effects.

[@readhistory2023]

He's going to use crackling on part of his Skar (lava world) board if I remember it correctly. But that's a future video.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Coming soon bud ;-)

[@SunDancerGE]

Hi Mel... I might have missed in the video (It's early, I'm at work and tired as one can be) so forgive me for asking: how to spray paints and primes work with XPS/styrofoam? Do they react? Thanks for the video especially the part about frosting and degassing primers. :)

[@TheTerrainTutor]

keep an eye on patreon on Friday bud, just editing that vid up now :-D

[@SunDancerGE]

Huzza! Will do. Thank you and let's get... what was is... oh yes... get back to work *sigh* ;)

[@OperationMadDog]

the propellant ist the problem ;) It may melt the foam

[@BadlanderOutsider]

One thing you can try is sealing the foam beforehand. I've had some luck with some stone circles and other things made out of polystyrene. I basically painted thema ll with a load of pva, a good few coats and gave them a blast. Seemed to work well.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Vids on patreon now bud ;-)

[@crossmirage]

If for whatever reason you want your item to have a rough texture (for example painting a statue), you can spray far away so the paint particles dry partially before hitting the surface. Here's a model I painted using this method: i.imgur.com/x0WMv0H.jpg

[@TheTerrainTutor]

nice tip mate

[@blackcavalier9506]

I must make a strongly worded complaint about you neglecting to include the tip to point the nozzle away from your face when trying to clean it out. I'll be sending you the bill for my prescription glasses ;)

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Hope you can accept a pound a month mate! ;-D

[@childofthedarkrat]

So, what's happening with that Nerf Havokfire in the corner of your shop?

[@TheTerrainTutor]

Self defence in case of zombies mate

[@Michael_Johnson_5446]

I think what Mel really wants is a pint and a pork pie.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

That'd be lovely mate

[@matttriplett6299]

This would have been a good place to show people how to replace a button (nozzle)...

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

Well, you take em off and put another one on. The question rather is how to find replacements. Usually, the regular brands have that little straw sticking out, so you can only use a cap from another can if you don't find them sold seperately. The good thing about grafitti cans is, they have different caps on offer for a couple of cents with different spray patterns, but the system is another one, the caps have that male part going into the can rather than taking it in like on the regular brands.

[@matttriplett6299]

@@IntergalacticApeMan I worked at plasti-kote for years and 90% of what we made was the other way around. Mel had an accident a year or two back and there is a trick to putting them back in without spraying yourself. That's why I mentioned it. If I had known that there would be such a demand for buttons I would have taken a few thousand of them when I left...

[@IntergalacticApeMan]

@@matttriplett6299 I think I never actually changed a regular one without expecting it to spray. The thing with those grafitti cans is, they're a lot easier to handle. Sure, if you push it down, it will make a mess naturally, but there is enough room to just fit it on there, it's made for doing that.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

When I master it, I will! :-D

[@redgreen09]

neat stuff ok al but one army painter haven seen ennny of others and yet get an can or paint fromearmy painter one day must be UK stuff agen amnd do not get a lot of spay stuff may be that to but will have a lok in to it and see more as post and sun day

[@patrick.bastiaensen]

Fire and varnich

[@mr.muffindan.m3367]

that poor mdf building

[@TheTerrainTutor]

It's had some abuse over the years!

[@benjaminboyle7329]

Im so sick of the please don't sue me disclaimers that proceed everything. YOU DONT NEED A GOD DAMN MASK TO USE SPRAY PAINT.

[@TheTerrainTutor]

you do by UK HSE regs mate, my studio is on a council run site and my council don't particularly like me, I ask awkward questions, so if I'm filming myself on the site, I comply to the regs mate ;-)