My Triumph TR6 Died This Morning! Here's How I Fixed It

[@jononeil500]

Hands down the best tutorial videos I've seen so far.

[@midwestmotoring]

Thanks very much! I'll work to keep making them for you. I'm just glad they help!

[@truequan]

Invaluable! ...... rock it back and forth in fourth gear. Why didn' t I think of that? Those 30K TR6 subscriber channels have nothing on you. YOU ARE THE MAN! I m going out to the garage now. Good job.

[@midwestmotoring]

I'm just delighted to be helpful! TR6s are well within my wheelhouse, so consider joining as a Midwest Motoring member!

[@derekinbritishcolumbia1449]

You made me wait to the end to hear why it wouldn't run..... After checking point gap with a feeler gauge, I've used a piece of stiff paper with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove any traces of oil from the points surfaces before replacing the distributor cap. When replacing the points, be prepared to replace the condenser also, especially if having arcing across the points. Consider a CDI or MSD unit which uses existing points in order to reduce point arcing while greatly increasing their life.

[@midwestmotoring]

Excellent point! Get it? Point! Anyway, you're also right that the condensor should always be replaced at the same time since it's often the reason for the points failing.

[@woodyunderwood2828]

I had a 76 TR-6 for twenty years...you were right on.

[@midwestmotoring]

The TR6 is still an underrated sports car. It's in the sweet spot where you can drive it every day if you wanted to. It's comfortable enough to use, practical enough for grocery runs, still turns heads, but doesn't break the bank. It's a shame Triumph isn't still around.

[@bobrose7900]

This reminds me of what a pain mechanical points were back in the day, and how archaic they were. I use to check them weekly, but sometimes daily! That was until I discovered electronic contactless points - Luminition/Pirahna were the choice of the day back then and the transformation was magical. More power, less fuel, cleaner running, 100% reliable, just bin the points and go for it. Trying to preserve originality with fragile capacitors and throw away mechanical points is a mugs game. I did this back in the late 70s and I gather they're still available. The car deserves it. Breaking down at 10pm on a dual carriageway when it's pouring with rain is no fun! Don't forget the high output coil though and then turn the idle speed down! Another upgrade is to an electric fuel pump - all your woes will be banished then...

[@midwestmotoring]

Most of our cars have received a FAST ignition (used to be the Crane XR-700--same product, new company) at this point. You're right about the reliability!

[@GranthamAtHome]

Hahaha - while adjusting the points...."It wouldn't be fun if it didn't slip on you" I wouldn't have used such gentle phrases!! Thanks for a great video

[@midwestmotoring]

You didn't see the unedited version... I've done my fair share of selectively choosing words in the garage....

[@fasttrs]

Thanks, the basics always matter!

[@midwestmotoring]

I'm glad these videos are helping. Thanks for the comment--and for subscribing!

[@168stp]

Hi, I enjoyed watching your trouble shooting classic triumph. I have 1969 Tr6 recreation as race car. Every summer it could be started easily for 10 years. Now I can not start it even replaced with new parts and have full battery, fuel and having sparks check. There were loud popping sound during cranking. I did not find any KZbin addressing this issue. Perhaps you could tell me why it fail to start, what cause the loud popping sound and how to fix ? Thank you ahead for your suggestions.

[@midwestmotoring]

I can try. A lot of things can cause loud popping sounds, most of them ignition related. Just because you have spark doesn't mean it's happening at the right time, so I'd start there. Maybe the points are worn, or possibly the fuel pressure isn't high enough. Sometimes from sitting (even just over the winter) the fuel can gum up in the carburetors and will cause what you're describing. Anyway, you need to check everything in detail. Just having gas and having spark isn't enough. You need the right amount of spark at the right time with the right amount of fuel distributed to the right cylinders with the right amount of valve clearance.... you get the idea. Here's your list: 1) Set the points with a feeler gauge. 2) set your rocker clearances. 3) clean and lubricate the distributor. 4) static time the ignition. 5) check fuel pressure with a gauge. 6) pull the carburetors and clean out any varnish, then re-set the float height, replace the needle valves, make sure the jets are clear, make sure the diaphragms aren't torn, set the needle height, and re-test. If it still won't start, you've missed something and need to go back and test everything again. I'd also check compression early on. You need to know you're getting enough compression or the engine won't fire. Good luck!

[@frankmgallo]

Great job and info 👍🏻👏🏻

[@midwestmotoring]

Thanks! 👍

[@phildavis9504]

Great video. I have a 75 TR6. I also need to change my fuel pump. The two mounting screws look pretty tough to get to. Any helpful tips for changing the fuel pump? Thanks

[@allanmarkby4177]

Not that hard to reach: But....find a way to cap the fuel line (bolt inserted into flexible fuel line) just above the fuel filter to limit the amount of gas that flows while you swap out the pump.

[@phildavis9504]

@@allanmarkby4177 Thanks Allan what I'm referring to is the air pump mechanism that's right in front of the fuel pump. that came on all 75 - 76 TR6 models. I did manage to squeeze by and replace the fuel pump with all that crap in the way...

[@midwestmotoring]

The air pump does get in the way on TR6s. I guess it's a sign of the times. Working on a newer car is an exercise in pulling parts off to get access to everything.

[@jamcdona]

I'm surprised that this is the first time someone has documented these basic tips and tricks- I even learned something! Hooking a timing light up to check for spark, for example. Duh! Cool. Question: did you rebuild your fuel pump, or install a new one?

[@jamcdona]

Oh, and the only time my TR6 quit on me..I forgot to tighten the battery iso knob. It wasn't hardly loose, so it started and drove, but when I turned right it would quit. That was the first week of ownership LOL.

[@midwestmotoring]

Hi John! I installed a new one, but I've kept the original to rebuild. The replacement was a cheap reproduction I already had on hand so I don't fully trust it.

[@jamcdona]

@@midwestmotoring Yeah, I have a nice looking repro myself but it's only for if the original craps out. I've heard the strainer in the new ones is bad.

[@midwestmotoring]

@@jamcdona I've not heard that but with a good filter in place it shouldn't matter. I do know that the actuator am on the back is very cheaply made on some pumps. You can get a pretty good quality reproduction pump if you look around.

[@tommorgan1515]

nice job Matt!

[@midwestmotoring]

I mean, in reality, an electronic ignition would have gone a long way. I'm a glutton for punishment though....

[@Danny_Petramalo]

I’m not getting fuel out of the fuel pump, cars been sitting for 10 years but everything is like brand new. Can start the car with starting fluid. Car also had barely any gas in it when it sat. Thoughts on the fuel pump? Is there a way to prime it?

[@midwestmotoring]

This is a silly question, but have you tried adding fuel? If it's been sitting with low fuel, some of it probably evaporated. Even adding a little from a can may not be enough, so I'd try adding more. You may also find you have a leak. As for priming, it depends on what car and what fuel pump. Healey 3000s have an electric pump, for example, while a TR6 will have a mechanical one with a priming lever on the pump body (assuming the original style pump). Unfortunately, everything being "brand new" a decade ago doesn't count for much. Components go bad from sitting much faster than they do from being used. Tires are a prime example. If they're 10 years old, they should be thrown away regardless of what they look like. You may need to replace some stuff that appears to be in great shape,. but try adding fuel first.

[@Danny_Petramalo]

@@midwestmotoring my wording was horrible I apologize haha, I was looking for if there was a way to prime it. I ordered a new fuel pump but I found the lever prime gonna try again today to get it running. Thanks man!

[@Danny_Petramalo]

I got it running man! Got a video up on my page! Thanks for your videos and your help!

[@phildavis9504]

Just had the same issue with my 75 TR6. I changed the points and the car will start but when it warms up, it will die again. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@midwestmotoring]

The car dying when it warms up can be a whole host of issues, but often deals with fuel mixture. You could have a vacuum leak, or your fuel pump might have an issue, or trouble with your throttle linkage, or even a compression issue. I'm afraid you're going to have to do some investigating and check out the engine and all systems both when the car is cold as well as warm. It could be as simple as a bad carb adjustment or as hard to find as a crack in the block that only opens when things heat up.

[@phildavis9504]

Thanks I’ll keep you posted

[@hotttt28]

love the mini ,next door

[@midwestmotoring]

Thanks, that's the wife's. She was a Mini fan long before she met me. :)

[@d.r.mathias9648]

Another way to get the points open is to jack up one rear wheel and have someone turn the other one until it's on the lobe.

[@midwestmotoring]

I wouldn't recommend that. You'd need to turn the wheel with enough force to spin the engine. Jacking up a wheel just makes that more dangerous and less convenient.

[@Thereishope664]

You're lucky it wasn't a UK spec car. I had one and the Lucas P.I. system meant I spent most of my time being towed.

[@midwestmotoring]

I've heard the PI systems were... problematic at times. That said, if properly maintained I'm sure they were a hoot to drive!

[@mmalek6407]

I have a 1976 it back fires and dies what could it be

[@midwestmotoring]

Sorry for the delay--got busy at the office. Unfortunately it can be a bunch of things. I'd want to know if it used to run better and then changed, or if it's always backfired. If it used to run well recently, I'd suspect points are not adjusted properly. Good luck!

[@hotttt28]

how sweet it is !

[@midwestmotoring]

Now if it could only rain and get the salt off of the roads....

[@rndball5457]

I learned to drive manual on a TR4, but so much for nostalgia. Who can afford to become a mechanic just to keep a 50-60 year car on the road? Miata is the answer, right?

[@midwestmotoring]

The MX5 is a truly excellent car, and definitely keeps the spirit of British roadsters alive. To me, it's like owning a mechanical watch. Sure, quartz is better in every way. It really doesn't require servicing and it's much more accurate. Still... you don't get that sweeping second hand and cool gear train to look at.

[@ImBakerB]

American psycho type vibes Good vid thooo

[@midwestmotoring]

Thanks!

[@OOICU812]

Here's wow he fixed it: LS swap.

[@midwestmotoring]

Ha! If BL weren't so backwards, they may have actually tried that. Lighter, more powerful, and probably would have fit with minor tweaks. At least the Rover V8 would have been an upgrade (technically a Buick powerplant). Oh well--I still love the sound of a nice straight 6!

[@bernardturner8103]

If it was my car I would swap out this crap British engine and stick a Mazda or Ford power plant and run easy every day.

[@midwestmotoring]

That's more a product of the time frame than the country. In its day, the TR6 engine was pretty reliable, and compared well to Mazda and Ford engines at the time. I'll probably be skewered for saying this, but even the Jaguar V12 and Triumph TR7 engines were good--they were just often only half bolted together by someone on strike and fell apart from poor maintenance. Anyway, no question any modern engine is technically better, but you lose the character of the car. The best way to install a Mazda engine in a British car is to buy one that comes with the rest of the Miata around it.

[@bernardturner8103]

Can you put a TR6 body on a Mazda Mx 5?

[@midwestmotoring]

@@bernardturner8103 sadly not. I'll have to concede that point.

[@woodyunderwood2828]

But then you don't have a British car.

[@Tortuga6able]

My Tr6 is slowly becoming Japanese. Nissan rear end, Toyota tranny, Datsun carbs. Steering wheel, shifter knob, ebrake handle Etc. Getting a rising sun decal for it. Lol