My Underwater Camera Gear 2020

[@BrentDurand]

What camera do you shoot? And why do you like it?

[@juhanivaihkonenunderwater]

I have been shooting 5dmk4 since release but couple years ago I got Olympus EM-1 mk2 for traveling and I have to say that I don't use Canon so much anymore in traveling since the size and weight. For shooting in Finland I still use Canon as it can handle the cold environment much better.

[@BrentDurand]

Juhani Väihkönen Really good insights Juhani, thanks. The E-M1 II is a great camera with quick autofocus.... and so nice to travel lighter. Which housing do you use for the 5D Mk IV?

[@juhanivaihkonenunderwater]

@@BrentDurand I have Nauticam housing in both.

[@davidbrown_au]

I shoot with the canon 5d mk ii in the sea & sea housing, & have the same ports as you, & the YS D1 strobes. My housing did not have the optical trigger set up, so I made my own setup using a led & small battery mounted inside the housing. Your story sounds similar to mine, I used the 5d clasic in the 5dmkii housing as a back up option to my 5dmkii & had the gopro 6 on the top. It took me many years to save up for the full set up. I found the sigma 105mm macro works in the sea & sea 87 port, but needs a lot of light to focus. Those scratches in your port can be polished out with the right acrylic polish kit.

[@BrentDurand]

david brown that optical trigger sounds awesome! Gotta love the DIY projects. I’ve also shot with the Sigma 105mm macro and enjoyed it. Are you using this primarily, or also the Canon 100mm macro?

[@AndyConlin]

I appreciate your not overly-hyped, "this is what works for me" attitude with this topic. It's exciting to get into the new products and upgrading and all that, but it often makes us lose focus on more crucial things.

[@BrentDurand]

Thanks Andy. At the end, it's not about money for the best gear, it's about what works for you and knowing how to create great images with ANY camera!

[@InfiniteBlue_]

If ur Acrylic Dome is scratched u can use some sandpaper and polish. I used a kit for car lights :D on my Ikelite dome . Even deeper scratches were gone after some little work time :) if u give it a little search on youtube u will find how to videos.

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Jonas - Thanks for the comment! Nice call on the car lights kit. That's probably much cheaper than the "micro mesh kits" sold specifically for acrylic dome ports.

[@InfiniteBlue_]

@@BrentDurand yes ;)

[@dantablazon6586]

Underated channel. You deserve more subs bro!

[@BrentDurand]

Too kind - thanks Dan! Certainly tell other u/w photo friends - that will help! You can also check out my Ultimate Guide to Underwater Photography here: tutorials.brentdurand.com/learn/

[@axm2689]

Nicely done. Articulate, not overly verbose or gimmicky. Pretty good on the length. Well done!

[@BrentDurand]

Thanks! I never script my videos in the hopes they take on a natural, workshop feel.

[@axm2689]

Brent Durand well, kudos man! Really enjoying your content. 🤙🏼

[@kennyloomis6791]

Thanks for the info! Learned a lot and excited to shift over from Landscape to Underwater photography also! Much love from Japan 🇯🇵

[@BrentDurand]

Glad to hear Kenny! Shooting underwater is a lot of fun as long as the dive skills are second nature.

[@diveaddict6885]

Nice glass choice. I shoot the Nikon 105mm 2.8 macro tack sharp like the canon L 100mm

[@BrentDurand]

That’s a great lens as well

[@KamranShaikh_Photography]

Can u plz suggest if float arms and ball clamps can be kept in carry-on backpack along with camera, uw lights, housing and batteries... I hv 2 float arms and 2 standard 5" arms with multiple single and butterfly clamps which i confused to put on carry on check in luggage... i dont have weight issues, just dont want any dispute at airline security checks... Please suggest

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Kamran - I don't believe there are restrictions for float arms and clamps - many people do bring these as carry-ons. There is always a chance, however, that the agent at the gate will have a problem with the arms, so you can never be completely certain. Sorry I don't have a stronger answer.

[@David123p51]

Can you make a video of you packing your cameras gear for traveling?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi David - A packing video is high on my list! In the meantime, I have a very detailed packing article on my website here: tutorials.brentdurand.com/packing-underwater-photo-gear/

[@georgek4990]

Hey Brent,is 22mm with a fisheye adapter efficient for uw photography?

[@BrentDurand]

Hello - I'm thinking you mean a 22mm lens with fisheye adapter? Yes, it should work as long as the housing manufacturer supplies a port and port extensions designed for the lens and adapter + camera you have. You need to use the exact combination recommended by the housing manufacturer for best optic quality. Hope that helps!

[@forevermisfit]

Do you take both strobes and the torches in one set up? Or is it strobes or torches?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi - Most of the time I take either strobes or torches. I recommend that for most photographers. That said, many of my dives involve strenuous logistics and time commitments, so then I bring both at once, using Ultralight Control Systems triple clamps to attach both (www.backscatter.com/Ultralight-Triple-Clamp?affiliate=U2FsdGVkX1+5HP8BlhLkagWnVwymT4hAXsf4ct8uMAM=) Hope this helps!

[@_sOnagi_]

How do you modify the fiber optic cable? I often get stressed by handling optical cables and breaking off, so please let me know in the next video.

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Sonagi - I purchased raw fiber optic cable online, then cut it into fiber optic end caps from old cables. The cable I got was a bit thick, so the system doesn't work too well, but I do want to go back and create a better system at some point. In the meantime I've gone back to using regular cables.

[@alfredalo1144]

hey brent thanks for your tutorials...its really useful can you send a link where to get the mount for your diy fiber optic cable?

[@BrentDurand]

You're welcome Alfred! Unfortunately I don't have a link. Two soft rubber plugs came with my Sea&Sea housing, and two I had from (I think) a Fantasea housing years ago. Backscatter sells some Inon plugs that may work, but I haven't tested them: www.backscatter.com/Inon-Double-Hole-Rubber-bushing-for-fiber-optic-ca?affiliate=U2FsdGVkX1+5HP8BlhLkagWnVwymT4hAXsf4ct8uMAM=

[@alfredalo1144]

@@BrentDurand thank you brent just starting out with underwater photography and your tutorials are really helping. I didnt know that youre in the Philippines, just saw your online engagement for Atlantis Philippines

[@BrentDurand]

@@alfredalo1144 So glad to hear, thanks Alfred. I was handling west coast sales for Atlantis, but live in northern California. Our water is a bit colder than over in the Philippines!

[@divekei9370]

thansk for sharing, how to clean water spots on the subsee lens

[@BrentDurand]

Dive Kei Great question. The best practice is to always rinse the diopter one fresh water and then dry. But if you do have spots you can try soaking the lens in warm water for a bit and then seeing if you can rub off the spots. I’d that doesn’t work, you can try mixing some vinegar in the water 👌

[@divekei9370]

@@BrentDurand thanks for your advise, i will try it 👌

[@TriumphTiger9]

Hey there Brent. Gotta say that your videos are unreal. Just getting into UW photography now and have learnt a truckload. I have laid out $$ for most things but looking at getting another lens or two. I have a Sony a6000 which is what I will be using as it gets bugger all work above the water. I've found a reasonably priced Tokina AT-X AF 17mm f/3.5. Ive seen that you rate this lens on your Canon. Plus was wondering what size dome port would be the minimum size you suggest for this lens? Cheers mate from Land Down Under.

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Chris - thanks for the kind words. Glad you're getting deeper into underwater photography. The Tokina 10-17mm is a great lens - you'd use it with a Metabones adapter. The size of the dome would depend on what housing brand you're using and what's available. The alternative, and arguably a better solution, would be to get a wide-angle conversion lens that is added on top of a lens like the Sony 28mm and a flat port. Many of these combinations have fantastic image quality. Again, exact combinations would depend on your housing brand. Definitely call your local u/w camera retailer and they can talk you through the options. Hope this helps!

[@corrysmith6109]

So that camera is waterproof? If so how deep can you go

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Cory - the camera itself is not waterproof, which is why it is used inside the underwater housing when in contact with water. The housing provides access to all camera functions and controls.

[@corrysmith6109]

@@BrentDurand I asked that question before I saw the housing! Thank you very much for the reply! What camera do you think would be best for weather proofing I’m looking for the best camera I can get around 2k that can handle some water without a housing I don’t need to go underwater but I want to start recording and taking pictures of my kayak trips the camera would certainly get wet a little do you know what camera would work best for me? I was looking at the Olympus OM-D EM1 I heard they have good weather proofing but idk shit about cameras lol

[@BrentDurand]

@@corrysmith6109 Hi Corry, yes the E-M1 is a great choice for weather proofing, although at the end of the day, most prosumer level cameras will be resistant to moisture and occasional water droplets (e.g. kayaking). The E-M1 has a micro 4/3 sensor, which would be nice for wildlife. But if landscape style shots are your thing, you may want to look at the Sony a6500 series or Canon R series, which have larger sensors and would excel for that style photography. Hope that helps!

[@corrysmith6109]

@@BrentDurand thank you so much for your detailed responses that helps me a lot man you get a like and a subscriber for that! Really appreciate the help!

[@diveaddict6885]

For housing I shoot Seacam

[@BrentDurand]

Very nice

[@hamzaalsobahi4933]

thank you so much for the time & effort you put into your videos. i really learned alot from u. come to saudi arabia. visa became very easy to obtain.

[@BrentDurand]

Hamza Alsobahi Thanks for the kind words Hamza - glad you’re enjoying the videos! I have several more planned to film soon 👌

[@thiaopaimua]

Do you have simple picture to take by 16-35mm

[@BrentDurand]

Many! You can view my Instagram page here: instagram.com/brentdurand/

[@jept241]

Hi Brent, great video! Just curious, why would you recommend getting a fisheye first before a rectilinear wide angle? Thanks

[@BrentDurand]

Thanks Jose! Yes, I would usually recommend a fisheye (or a wide-angle wet lens equivalent). It's the most common lens for underwater wide-angle. The rectilinear lens is good for more distant subjects like sharks and whales.

[@zoubtube]

I have to agree with the Kraken 5000 lights. they really are outstanding, especially with the remote control. By far the best set of light system in their category and worth every penny. Highly recommend them to anyone who is looking for great output and functionality without going into the super big $ of the 10K+ lumen lights

[@BrentDurand]

They’re fantastic lights! The remote control would be awesome!

[@zoubtube]

@@BrentDurand The remote makes the lights super efficient. 1 remote controls two lights and allows you to turn them on/off and cycle though colors or light intensity for all colors instantly. SUPER handy when night diving considering the red and UV light option. highly recommended.

[@morgan.van.den.berg.]

What are your thoughts on theon Sony A6300 with a Sony epz 16-50mm f3.5-5.6 lens in a seafrogs salted line housing? Also unfortunately without a dome as I’m a student and that’s all I can afford at the moment. I’m also from South Africa so I’ll primarily use it for wide angle in the kelp and coral reefs

[@BrentDurand]

In full honesty I haven't shot with this lens, but 16mm in a flat port should still allow you to capture some nice reef shots. The trick is to create compositions based on the field of view. Then one day if you have a dome you can work on wider compositions. Hope that helps

[@uwgreg]

@brent durand Will be buying my first underwater setup. Will be mostly doing video (and perhaps add photo later once comfortable) during Travel Trips. I have experience shooting top-side; used to shoot a Nikon D850, now on Leica M10p I've been watching videos and speaking to people with experience. I like your tutorials and videos, I'd love your opinion. Size is very important for me. Is your housing much larger than a nauticam Panasonic GH5 one? Many people are pointing me to: Panasonic GH5/s or the upcoming GH6 Nauticam Housing and/or GoPro 8 black (if I get both, to mount the GoPro on the GH5/6 as an optimal setup for my use case. (once I choose the system, I'll decide on ideal lenses :P first trying to figure out if I should prepare for both wide angle and macro or only 1) I wonder if I could forgo strobes and macro shooting initially to use a smaller package? Or my lights are extremely important even for wide angle shots further away? What do you think? Should I go with either or both? Should I focus on a single camera with a single purpose initially, to get the hang of it and then move on to video/photo/macro/wide angle/etc. (Also, do you know if it would be advisable to get a pure videocamera if I end up deciding on never shooting stills? Are they much much better underwater?) Cheers

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Greg, hope you're finding the videos on my channel useful. I think you've answered a lot of your questions here. The GH5 is great. I'm sure the GH6 will be great as well, and Nauticam is releasing housings fairly soon after camera launch. The size is certainly smaller than a DSLR, especially since the lenses are smaller and lighter. If wide-angle video is your goal, no need for macro setup or strobes. Just get the camera/housing, then add video lights as a first step. I'd go for a combo photo/video camera and not a dedicated video camera. Cheers!

[@alainrobitaille6378]

Hi Brent, I bought a SeaLife underwater camera DC2000 Pro 3000 Duo in summer 2019. It is easy to me to used and lot less expansive than having a pro DSLR underwater casing. I would like to add a wide angle lens to the kit. On the SeaLife web site, they have two types: a 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens and a 0.75x Wide Angle Conversion Lens for DC-Series Cameras. Now the store I went to do not have them in stock. They must order it and no salesmen have enough knowledge with underwater photography equipment to advise me properly, I mean not expert at all. Before I place an order, are you able to tell me what are the difference between those two lens and what type of pictures I should expect? I usually work with Canon 5D Mk IV in studio with Canon L series lens. I know there is a difference in the quality of the picture between the L series lens and the consumer lens. But I do not have enough experience in underwater photography. Picture quality is very important for me. Also, with the kit, is the Sea Dragon 3000 Auto Light should be good enough or should I add a second Sea Dragon 3000 or upgrade it? Keep publishing. It is a very good place to learn new stuff. Thanks Alain from Montreal, Qc, Canada

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Alain, the 0.5x increases the field of view by 100% (very wide), and the .75x increases field of view by 33%. The choice between them will depend on what you plan to shoot. I'd recommend the 0.5x. Also, one video light or two depends on what you plan to shoot. For macro, one light should be fine, but if you would like to shoot more wide-angle, then two lights is ideal if you can do that. Hope this helps!

[@alainrobitaille6378]

@@BrentDurand Thank you very much :)

[@horyaycardo2650]

Hey Brent. When are you coming to the Philippines? Hope we can meet up and talk UW photography.

[@BrentDurand]

Hory Aycardo Hi Hory, I fly tonight. I’ll be leading a workshop and then Familiarization trip for potential clients so won’t have any free minutes. Hopefully I’ll be back another time soon to meet and talk photography!

[@horyaycardo2650]

@@BrentDurand Hi Brent, I hope you are not flying to Manila. Airport situation is dicey due to Taal volcano. If you going to Cebu, you should be ok. Do let me know when you are in the country--with more time. 😂

[@BrentDurand]

@@horyaycardo2650 MNL is open now - it was only closed for one day. Hoping that everything stays calm...

[@alfebolos1821]

Hi Brent, greetings! Where do you clip the snoot? Strobe or focus light?

[@BrentDurand]

Great question, Alfe. I attach the snoot to the strobe. It's tougher to aim that way (because you can't see where the beam will go like with a video light), but it's much more powerful. To attach, I slide the rope around the back of the strobe. It's secure enough...

[@alfebolos1821]

Brent Durand cool, Great idea. Very resourceful.

[@lormotorsportf1788]

I have a olympus tg6 anf gopro 8

[@BrentDurand]

Nice! The TG-6 is great, especially for macro. Hope you're enjoying the GoPro HERO 8 as well! Do you use filters or lights with it?

[@lormotorsportf1788]

@@BrentDurand no iam saving money to bye snoot to get a nicer black

[@BrentDurand]

@@lormotorsportf1788 Very cool

[@juliendm9846]

Hey brent. it is the first really interesting "gear video" I have ever seen! Instead of advertising or exhibition, it is a great explanation about choices and reasons for them, very instructive, thank you for that. I found an used housing for my nikon D500 (really good deal) and the guy sells it with an 8.5 acrylic dome and an ext ring for the nikon 10 24 DX lens, wich is a rectilinear wide angle. As I am upgrading from the "compact world", it's hard for me to fully understand the differences between the rectilinear and the fisheye. Specially for underwater... Why do you advise to start with the fisheye/tokina? Could you enlight me about what I can expect from this 10 24 or the tokina 10 17? What is for you my best option as I am doing UW photographer for dive centers?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Julien - thanks for the kind words. There's so much 'agenda-driven' content out there that I hope to offer a down-to-earth perspective. In short, the fisheye lens is great for shooting very close (e.g. one meter) to your subject, whether a diver, shark, sea fan, etc. This is because it is very wide. Since you're so close, you minimize water between you and subject, resulting in a clearer image without cutting off the scene. A rectilinear wide-angle lens has a narrower field of view so is not as good for getting close to your subjects. Most divers look to these lenses for subjects you're farther away from, like sharks, most whales, etc. If you're shooting portraits I would go for that fisheye.

[@juliendm9846]

Thanks for the answer. I think you are right about your content, quality over quantity brings more faithful and interesting followers in my opinion... Alright I get it, my lack of knowledge about lenses made me think that both lens being 10mm, the field of view would be about the same... But you also said in the video that the rectilinear is better in bad conditions... Could you tell me witch one offer the more versatility? I also wonder how much complementary they could be? As I obviously do divers portrait to earn my keep but I clearly use every free time to do what I love the most: everything else haha Is there an interest for me to go for both or is it just a waste of space/weight? And if I can abuse of you technical knowledge a last time, for what strobe will you go in my position? As I burn one of my S2000 last year... Made it fix but they told me that I fired them beyond their operational limitations and that I should find some stronger strobes but more importantly capable of firing a lot of sequential flashes...

[@BrentDurand]

@@juliendm9846 Hi Julien. There's a lot here. If you like to shoot things like landscapes topside, then maybe the 10-24mm is best since you would only need to buy one lens. It will work great for diver portraits as well. But you need the larger dome. This sounds like it could be your best choice. You would rarely use the fisheye on land, but underwater it would be nice for reefscapes, plus you could use a smaller dome. Decisions, decisions. I prefer the rectilinear wide in poor conditions because there's less chance of seeing backscatter on the edges of the image when using strobes (more of an issue on full frame cameras). The ability to zoom is the big help for lower vis conditions with a lot of particulate, reducing chance of backscatter on the edges of the frame. Since you're shooting divers you want a strong (wide-angle) strobe. Both of these are workhorses, recycle fast and would be great choices: Sea&Sea YS-D2J: www.backscatter.com/Sea-and-Sea-YS-D2-Underwater-Strobe?affiliate=U2FsdGVkX1+5HP8BlhLkagWnVwymT4hAXsf4ct8uMAM= Inon Z330: www.backscatter.com/Inon-Z330-Underwater-Strobe?affiliate=U2FsdGVkX1+5HP8BlhLkagWnVwymT4hAXsf4ct8uMAM=

[@juliendm9846]

Hi @@BrentDurand Thanks a lot ! You helped me a lot about the lens choice. I think I am gonna for this cheap used gear opportunity and probably go for the fisheye too but a little bit later... About the strobes, I wanted to upgrade for the Z330, but INON engineers themselves told me that if I fire the Z330 the same way as my S2000, even if they could keep up a little bit more longer, they will still overheat and be toasted... I have been advised to go for Retra strobes or Ikelite's... Retra seems to handle overheat very well with a specific protection and aluminium body. I don't know anything about Ikelite yet, need to check how they are dealing with overheat

[@axm2689]

@@juliendm9846 can you explain your comment regarding the Z330 strobes? Why do you say they overheat?

[@Montiman0]

Can you do a 2 minute (or maybe longer) tutorial on shooting manual strobe power for macro? I'm finding TTL is giving me mixed results and I'm constantly having to change strobe positions.

[@BrentDurand]

Great idea. For now, I find that 1/2 power on the YS-D1 or D2 is a great starting point for macro or supermacro with a diopter (strobe has guide number 32, and I use a full frame camera), but you can experiment a bit yourself to find a good default. If you haven't yet, check out my Strobe Positioning tutorial! tutorials.brentdurand.com/underwater-strobe-positioning/

[@eliela1733]

How do you trim the buoyancy of your dome port? Thanks.

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Eliel - there is not much you can do with the dome port itself besides adding car wheel weights (for wheel and tire balancing) to the bottom of the dome port. This doesn't work very well as you can only add a few grams. The better solution is working to balance the buoyancy of the dome port with the entire system in order to minimize front float caused by the dome. This may mean positioning floats or float arms slightly behind the housing to achieve balance. Every system is slightly different, so it can take some experimentation. Here's a great article: www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Best-Buoyancy-Solutions-For-Underwater-Cameras?affiliate=U2FsdGVkX1+5HP8BlhLkagWnVwymT4hAXsf4ct8uMAM=

[@rohithkrishnan.r4678]

Hey man.. thanks for the video. I am planning to buy a new housing for my Nikon d7500 . Can you guide me what to buy ? Especially the accessories? Housing Done port Tray handle And ? And I am not planning to buy video lights or strobes right now? Can you give me a list?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Rohith - That's very exciting - the D7500 is a great camera. There will be a lot of personal choices in the gear you'll need to purchase (starting with housing/port brand). The ports and extension will depend on the lens, which depends on what you'd like to shoot. Budget is also very important here. If you haven't yet, check out my video on How to Choose an Underwater Camera: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZzPZmSjfbhsZ8U You won't need a tray/handle since DSLR housings have those integrated into the housing. I'm happy to put a package together if you're able to purchase from Backscatter, as I would receive a small affiliate commission in exchange for the time spent (and you still get best price online). The video will be a great first step. Feel free to contact me via my website to discuss further: tutorials.brentdurand.com/underwater-camera-questions/ - Brent

[@af1616af]

hello, for such a large dome port, do u face problem of getting too buoyant at front? If yes, how you solve it? Thanks!

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Yiu - Great observation - YES, it has a lot of front float. Enough to make your hands tired after a few hours in the water. The only real solution is to apply weights to the dome port (car wheel balance weights, for instance). I haven't done that personally though. If getting a new dome port, Sea & Sea has their new dome made from PLANEXT, which is lighter than glass with less float. Could be worth a trying...

[@MeTooHigh]

Hi, Regarding the uv light on the kraken 5000: How well does it work and is it actually uv or do you need a yellow filter? Do you know how it compares to the light and motion nightsea blue light?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi, the light works well. You don’t necessarily need a filter over your mask, but using the lights is much more fun when you do have it. Same for photos. The L&M Sola Nightsea has arguably the best blue light and filter combo as a result of a close partnership with Nightsea (the owner had done extensive testing and research and helped make fluoro diving popular).

[@khamai5353]

Your equipment is the wish of every single diver, include me :)

[@BrentDurand]

And I value it so much Kha! It took me quite a few years to slowly build my first DSLR system, and now hours of work after work most days to pursue photography, these tutorial videos, etc. to keep the dream alive :- ).

[@ricardorey6477]

could you go to the Philiphines with all this covid-19 going on?

[@BrentDurand]

Hi Ricardo. I don't think you can currently. Even if you could, with more countries going into Shelter in Place and Quarantines, it's best not to travel and expose you or others. It is a tough time for dive resorts worldwide as well as local dive shops. I'll certainly be looking forward to getting back to the Philippines as soon as safe to do so.

[@diverspudph]

@@BrentDurand I was wondering if this trip pushed through. Stay safe!

[@monkeyna]

Great video! What's a good way to start earning money with underwater photography? I love it as a hobby, would be better to earn money doing it!

[@BrentDurand]

Brian Smith thanks Brian. It’s tough to earn money through underwater photography - it all requires a lot of self drive. You could work out an agreement to shoot guest photos for a dive operator, contact media publishers to try and license images to complement their stories, try to sell photos on stock websites, print some of your images to sell at local art walks and markets, etc. For most of us, this is mostly still a hobby!