My Voron 0.1 Build Journey (Mistakes To Avoid)

[@fusedbrain4793]

FYI for that x-carriage part breaking, I believe there is an alternate version of that part called "extra beef" which has a stronger design.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Thanks for the shout out!! Great video, your V0 looks really amazing and came together well!! Thanks for sharing all your experiences with the build. I love those PA-09 crimpers. I probably have tweeted them several times, also have them featured in my Voron 0 playlist on the tools I recommend for the build.

[@ModBotArmy]

Absolutely! Your playlist was so handy :). I think that must have been were I saw them then the tools you recommended. Cannot wait to use them again. Crimping no longer seems nearly as daunting 🙌

[@mr_voron]

PA-09 is life. Mine are going on 6 years of abuse now and I can’t remember how many 100 count bags of pins it went through.

[@Spelter]

I source all parts myself of a Switchwire and the Voron 0.1 will be my next I guess, just for fun. For the screws: look locally for a hardware store or ask around, most of them take orders with amounts, so just send the BOM with double the amount and you have enough for the build. Positive thing: It's available in 1 or 2 days and packed in packets with labels, you don't have to sort through them and they are maybe a little bit more expensive, but it's not a position of the BOM that costs much. And don't use black screws, they rust way too fast, use zinc coated ones, they resist the environment in the printer better.

[@mr_voron]

Fantastic video! Thanks for putting this together. Honestly cheered me up to hear you talk about our machines. Also, that’s a really clean build. Bravo. PrintedSolid uses 1/8 acrylic stock, not 3mm so the thickness disparity makes total sense.

[@Mainsail-Crew]

Glad to hear you like Mainsail!

[@Killa_Prints]

Thanks for highlighting the pitfalls. That is super helpful! Ordered the LDO V0.1 kit and will be building it whenever it decides to arrive. 😂

[@ModBotArmy]

Figured it would help others and I like to show that I make many mistakes as well haha. Awesome cannot wait to see your build 😬

[@imtheone9698]

Did you order the kit from aliexpress?

[@jon9947]

Really enjoyed the video! A deburring tool is so very handy for getting rid of brims, I hardly use a brim, but when I do. I dont have a wow stick, but I do have a set of ball drivers, one of the best 3d printer investments I have personally made. So I am guessing that wow stick is pretty awesome too.

[@mattanderson111]

Yeah those deburring tools are dirt cheap and incredibly useful for anyone 3d printing.

[@ModBotArmy]

I swore I bought a deburring tool at one point years ago for cleanup. I may need to dig in the toolbox. Thank you for the tip and reminder 😬!

[@SianaGearz]

I just have a cheap set of small hex drivers that look like jewellers' screwdrivers that i think was probably 1€, and a mini-bit screwdriver with hex and other bits, 31 in total, that whole set was 3€. I don't do the wrist motion, for the most part it's just finger motions which are substantially less RSI inducing. Hex wrenches are OK when you need to apply force, but mostly they're just a bit of a menace. I'm not all that convinced of the value and convenience of small motorised screwdrivers so far, whether it really adds to the quality of life.

[@zruncho3d971]

Glad you enjoyed my (NoDrop) nuts! I don't know why something like that isn't standard, given the huge difference it makes. Nice video! You've got most of the best mods already too: * umbilical / toolhead boards * Nevermore Micro * hinged tophat * NoDropNuts * Neopixel top lights About the only things left for your build... accelerometer-based Input Shaping and Klipperscreen on a touchscreen. You'll really like the ADXL. One suggestion, having made 4-ish V0s: push your speeds... you'll be surprised. For infill and inner perimeters, V0s can go really fast, even with regular-flow hotends. 220 mm/s is not a big deal for a V0, especially with the V0.1 bigger motors, and that's not the limit. The ADXL will really help to make the most of those high speeds by enabling you to bump up the accels without seeing excessive ringing.

[@dougfleming8327]

Interesting that you chose carbon fiber nylon to reprint the part that kept cracking. I had the exact same problem with ABS on the AB joints on my Voron 2.4 and finally said to hell with it and printed them with NylonX. I now have over 1000 hours on the 2.4 with ZERO issues on or related to those parts.

[@mikaelbackstrom]

Starting my LDO Voron 0.1 build tomorrow on my birthday. Gonna be a blast. First printer I build from scratch from parts kits so I will take my time and let it be done when it is done. If all goes well, I will order two Voron 2.4 kits, hopefully LDO if they release them in time. Looking forward to more of your content on the 0.1. Thanks for the tips so far.

[@ModBotArmy]

Ooh your birthday is close to mine! Mine is on the 30th. Today should be your birthday so happy birthday and good luck with the build 😬

[@koontzman123]

Happy Birthday, how did the build turn out?

[@robfox674]

Appreciate the insight! Just starting my V0.2 build using a LDO kit. I’ll be back for more!

[@CanuckCreator]

Gratz on the build, cheers!

[@ModBotArmy]

Thanks buddy! Thanks for all of your help as well 👍

[@extectic]

I'm currently assembling my first printer, a Prusa. Since I've been building PC's and stuff, I already had an iFixit electronics etc repair kits. That kit makes a huge difference. None of those stupid Allen keys that suck to use, proper bits. I also picked up a Bosch Go automatic screwdriver not long ago, that works with the iFixit bits with an adapter to get to small Allen key sizes... even on a pre-made kit the combo makes a *huge* difference. On a build that's not based on a kit, having the tools has to be awesome.

[@ModBotArmy]

How awesome! I have not owned a prusa but everyone I know has or does and have been very happy with them. Have also heard the build is a treat due to documentation. Let me know how it goes 😬

[@extectic]

@@ModBotArmy Yep, aside from the y-axis belt which was a bit of a pain to install, seems like a kind of primitive design tbh, the mechanicals went together perfectly, so frame and all three axes done. Electronics next. The iFixit tool kit really continues to be invaluable for smaller screws like this, if I had to use the included Allen keys I'd have had a much worse time.

[@frankforrester42]

9:14 I find storing printed parts in old filament boxes with a piece of masking tape on it with what's inside written on it works really well. They also stack nicely. I have a lot of projects just waiting on electronics from the slow boat from Shazahn.

[@paulstephenson5311]

Thank you for this video. I've just received my 0.1 kit. Your tips are most helpful. My first task was to check my nuts! The kit was at a bargain price (being the old model) so is a good starting point. I'll be going down the CANbus route with a Big Tree Tech board and not the Cheetah that needs a Pi.

[@justind9779]

I also had a very very very hard time with the m2 line up carrier. I can not forget that night.

[@V8VRUte]

This just makes me even more excited to get my parts together for a 2.4 build. I'm going the same route as you, self sourcing all the parts, not for quality reasons or anything, but for the fact that I can just order parts as I'm able to afford them. I've done the same as you with the hardware I've already ordered, generally rounding up to the nearest multiple of 50. I'm glad to get the tip about the heat sets though, that was something that I hadn't considered, or even realized was a thing. So far, I'm in the process of the 3d printed parts, and I think that it's good advice to keep them organised more than just putting them all in a box like I had been (thankfully, I'm not too far into them, so will be easy to srot through and arrange)

[@msteele999]

I just completed my 2.4 and am considering a v.0 now. Your video is pushing me in that direction! kudos from V2.2024!

[@ModBotArmy]

Awesome! I would love to do a 2.4 at some point. I appreciate you watching 😬

[@dooley9621]

Received my LDO kit a couple of weeks ago, now just trying to get the parts printed (bloody ABS) then I will get cracking on it. Going to follow your build guide so I hope its thorough lol. Thanks for sharing mate.

[@fooman2108]

As kid (my dad had three English sports-cars he restored) one on my jobs was 'chasing' nuts and bolts for the car.... sometimes having a tricycle motors are handy.....

[@lazarjovic9948]

I made the exact same error with the heat set inserts and the first link piece, though I solved it in a different way. So for whoever also makes that error: you can undo the screws that hold the rear right bed mount onto the bed frame, then separate the two. That way you can disconnect the bed frame from the bed mount. and loosen it from the linear rails.

[@TeaObvious]

i did as well, with the exact same thought process, that this is just an example... i added the endsops back into the 2 rails of the bed and undid all the screws there.

[@ModBotArmy]

Glad to know I am not alone. If I am not mistaken it was late at night when I realized it and I probably should have waited until I could analyze it a bit more. Happy that it was replaceable but did set me back a week waiting on the linear rail.

[@FrankCupo]

You can add me to this club as well. seemed far to random for step one.

[@MedicNYC]

I'm psyched to get my LDO kit... this will be my first Voron build. I will definitely take all of your advice into consideration. I look forward to the 0.1 hangout.

[@gibbnal]

Great video! So many good tips here to avoid the inevitable headaches. Looking forward to the next build.

[@fwiffo]

Hey, that's my broken purple X-carriage! I also had another one crack after some time using the printer (along with a few other parts) so had to replace it a second time. I recommend printing a solid one, or going for one of the x-axis mods. Also, print spares of every motion part. Do it in advance, because if they break a year from now, you colors might not match. I've found that colors of KVP ABS, in particular, are not very consistent batch-to-batch. I've done destructive tests on that part, and the conclusion is to print hot, 255+.

[@ModBotArmy]

Good to know! I have half a spool of each that I am keeping for replacement parts. I already am redoing the motion parts. Quality and strength could be better. I also believe I am going to replace the parts that connect to the rails with carbon nylon. It just seems to hold up better. Thanks for watching 😬

[@fwiffo]

@@ModBotArmy More than a few people have had trouble with CF nylon and creep. So, fair warning.

[@TheBoatPirate]

this is an awesome source of those little things that get in the way of the slap slap wham bam assembly you see people who have built 50 of these things with the problems they had edited out. im very interested in building one of these. still not sure WHICH Voron im looking at but im kind of leaning toward the 0.1. im sure i wont be ready to play with parts for another year or two. by then im sure the whole industry will have changed yet again.

[@Hobsonchoice]

ordered my V0.1 LDO kit from Fabreeko yesterday. Cannot wait until it comes in.

[@jwunder246]

My v2 was a pleasure but I agree source your own parts. It’s a great experience

[@GlennBrockett]

Just completed my V0.2r1. That set of nuts on the door was infuriating! I wish they had warned to not use the no-drop washers there. (And a couple of other places.) I printed Gridfinity bins for my screws. It was very easy to get the right one when I needed it. Anyone building one of these kits need to have NON-ball end hex drivers. Ball end are great, but will easily strip the tiny screw heads. Tuning is this week, but I already have made a couple of prints.

[@lukazz434]

12:30 I just taped the cable link end and it works like a charm. That mistake is 100% on the manual's part

[@zruncho3d971]

And a different thought: the V0 is difficult but rewarding, but it could much less difficult and still equally rewarding. I think it'll get there eventually, with an easier belt attachment strategy, easier to build toolhead, and more automatic calibration. One day...

[@Dougie085]

Adafruit has the correct inserts btw, I just went through trying to find the right ones on Amazon the other day I never could, then I found the Adafruit ones and I ordered 200 of them lol Edit: actually I was wrong they do not

[@callingallbears]

I really appreciate all your content, you basically did exactly what I would have done so I don't have to lol, subbed

[@andrewmorgan7770]

Good looking out. I think I might go ahead and print another X carriage in PC just to keep the breakage risk at a minimum. I know I’d be raging too!

[@douglasrohman6191]

Looking to build a voron myself, I appreciate the video.

[@ModBotArmy]

Awesome! Hopefully there was some info that will help you out 😬

[@mohamedfarid7499]

thank you very much for this information

[@avejst]

Great walkthrough :-) Thanks for sharing your expirences with all of us :-)

[@ModBotArmy]

Of course you rock! 😬

[@alanb76]

The Salad For might be a better choice for a small Voron build.

[@DoRC]

A sharp xacto knife will clean up brim flashing in just a few seconds per part.

[@AJB2K3]

Finding a bad nut after assembly is a real PITA and can put a person off working on the project.

[@kjpierson1152]

lol I was just designing what you're calling nut traps the other day while putting together a cnc that was driving me mad...God I wish I'd just watched this first to know what to search for!

[@pbshooter100]

Loved this video although I probably don't have the patience to build one of these myself.

[@danielhuman6637]

Are you going to do a video on how you installed the filter?

[@AehreWemAereGebuehrt]

Thanks for the tips! One question regarding the umbilical PCBs: Where can I get the wire loom? I can't find any ressources on that, just the two PCBs.

[@_Piers_]

You'll have to make that yourself.

[@cwalton00]

Any tips on printing the drawers for the hardware organizer?

[@4rdzlla]

How many LEDs u link to sk3 v2? Or did u run to a 5v PSU.

[@JSunBurns]

Question: On the umbilical mod, what value are the SMD capacitors for the neo-pixel connections that are soldered to the board?

[@ModBotArmy]

I actually don’t know. My board was not populated and I only installed the headers so no capacitors. I ran it strait to the skr board.

[@jeroen9424]

I can second your decision to buy those Engineer crimping pliers, they make stuff so much more easy.

[@ModBotArmy]

So damn good!

[@kylesreef2989]

Oh nice lookin build plate. That from the Etsy guy?

[@TripleJAu]

Nice video 😄😄😄.. If only they either pre build or even half built. For those of us just starting the journey in 3d printing

[@chriswoods9857]

I wish I could enjoy 3d printing like this. I have been printing for a few months now and the constant fixing and ordering parts is turning me away from it. I have 3 printers and all 3 are down. Just can't seem to get anything to work like they should. I can build my own computers, work on any part of a car, run and program cncs as well as maintain them but these printers are making me go insane!

[@travistucker7317]

How about now?

[@chriswoods9857]

@travistucker7317 well....after a year has gone by I now own 8 printers and also build and sell them to people new to the hobby! I am also venturing into building a cnc mill right now and have most of the hardware to complete it. The more I learn the more I enjoy the hobby!

[@travistucker7317]

@chriswoods9857 what kind of printers are you building mostly? What kind of mill are you building? I have a 4-ax Taig i need to get going

[@chriswoods9857]

@travistucker7317 I am building all sorts of stuff. I have a voron 2.4, a bunch of modded ender 3s, I have some parts for a voron 0.2, I have an old printer I bought for 50 dollars that I am going to make a trident, another 50 dollar printer that is the size of a voron 0.2 that I will be gutting out and replacing parts on, I want to do a rat rig in the near future aswell. I also have an anycubic chiron that I want to mod and make it into a tank of a printer because I love the build size, but the print quality of it isnt all that great. I am building a laser engraver for work to use for etching company names on saw blades. I have most all of the parts for a millinium milo 1.5v. I tried researching the taig and I am guessing that is a robot? Looks pretty cool if so!

[@travistucker7317]

@@chriswoods9857 i am about to start my 3rd ratrig after i get done with a v0. I think you'll like them. The Taig is a desktop mill a little less fiddly than the ones they call x3's. It is a dsls3000. I'm not sure if they still make them

[@ameliabuns4058]

Did you use esun abs+ abs+ has horrible layer adhesion in my Experiance. Raw and is stronger layer wise!

[@ulferiksson6986]

Oh, you will probably have problems with the CF Nylon. Had to reprint my whole gantry on my 2.4 since the CF Nylon creeps and eventually the bolts bottom out. The reason it cracks is bad lauer adhesion and you’re not the first one experience that with Esun ABS+ especially printing unenclosed

[@JoeStoffa]

Agreed on both points. There's a world of difference between the interlayer strength of ABS parts I print in my Method-X (heated chamber at 80-85C) and those I print in open air. Also, I've found that colorants can significantly affect (decrease) interlayer adhesion; natural provides the best interlayer adhesion (I use black if UV resistance is required).

[@ameliabuns4058]

What happened to the sla parts you were gonna use?

[@sevrothegoblin5212]

That weird transition into the intro... it's like he is scared of being cut by the cut lol. Great video doe

[@neurojitsu]

Wow, some of those nuts are TINY! This thing is cool...

[@TommiHonkonen]

don't they make proper t nuts for that size or what the deal with that nut trap is? If someone tells you to use this or that rather than the part the bom says you need to break the space time continuum and get a proper reason why use this over that.

[@briguy9915]

Correct they don't make t nuts small enough for the t slot rails the V0 uses. The build uses regular 3mm nuts, but the 3mm t nuts I own (and most common) do not fit in the rails. I wish I would have seen the nut traps before I built mine haha.

[@PassJim]

is having the printed parts ABS a requirement? I was thinking of using PETG

[@lollandster]

It is if you plan on enclosing it. If you leave it open then PTEG should work fine.

[@fwiffo]

PETG won't work if you intend to enclose it, and it kinda defeats the purpose to not enclose a Voron. If it's hard for you to print ABS, use the Print-It-Forward program. I hate ABS too, but it's a necessary evil I this case.

[@martijnpeters]

The guy from CNC kitchen had some problems with the bed sagging when he used a different material. I would just go for ABS and maybe choose a brand that is easily printable (like esun ABS+)

[@jedglover8245]

All Voron parts are designed with ABS shrink in mind, they recommend ABS/ASA only. As you can see people have used other types with success, but there is also issues with PC as each manufacturer uses differing blends and there are instances of PC deforming under load on Vorons, causing reprints in ABS.

[@fwiffo]

It's worth adding that ABS is only really required for functional parts. You can print the skirts, panel clips, tophat, etc. in PETG and probably even PLA. It's not actually a bad route if you have difficulty printing ABS, because the large one-piece skirts and tophat are are some of the hardest to print without an enclosure because they warp a ton.

[@hondaguy9153]

You should build a micron or flying z

[@sarzodagreat5870]

I want to see it pushed to max speed 😬🙃

[@brianfoster7064]

Links to the umbilical and tool belt are 404. 😬

[@Raytenecks]

Your X Carriage problems convinced me that a fully 3d printed printer isn't for me. Thank you! I had been agonizing over it for a while, and bought a name-brand printer instead... And then continued thinking I wanted to build a Voron. But that X Carriage problem seems like a real deal-breaker for me. I'm not convinced that the parts that will have constant pressure on them should be metal, not plastic, and I can't really machine those myself yet.

[@velvia7880]

Voron 0.1 has definitively been the most annoying 3D printer build I've done so far 😅

[@ameliabuns4058]

Telling your print speeds based on infill without saying acceleration is misleading. What really matters is wall/outer perimeter speeds. I could do 150mm/s infill on my crappicubic I3 mega. Bur my perimeters are 30mm/s at 500/mm^3 because of the crap heavy ! My doot changer does 30-45mm/s too but this time at 1200/1000 accel and it's WAY faster. Sadly my rail has play in it and I'm space constrained so I can't make it faster

[@SubieYam]

Utility belt mod link is a 404

[@mnrobards]

Must have nut tracks. Saves so much time and aggravation

[@showmytime9177]

LDO KIT IS CRAP! Super expensive and it doesn't print! Just finished assembling an V0 LDO kit from Lecktor. The extruder skips like hell and the gantry hangs if both axes move at the same time.

[@6455ernst]

who in his right mind design such a shitty way to install the F623RS Bearings? I mean there is no way to change it without disassembly half of the printer!!!!

[@mattgavioli6762]

Just don't think you're the only one to put your printer on 192.168.x.69 lol

[@Wingnut353]

Brims.. in 2021.... people quit doing that like 3-4 years ago.

[@Bionitech]

Step 1: Don't go to the voron discord for help Step 2: don't use their sourcing channels That's it, there's better sourced parts to find over the garbage they peddle

[@briguy9915]

Amen, the discord channel sucks. Not very helpful in my experience.

[@malloott]

So... Where do I get help and source parts then?

[@Bionitech]

@@malloott it takes a bit of looking around but because those cheapo mediocre rails have been seen as the gold standard it's harder to find the good ones without having to dig up data sheets that actually break down the specs. There's a few dedicated channels on the main 3D Printing discord that are much friendlier and more willing to help find the right sourcing parts.

[@SubieYam]

I know old post but I agree the discord is an unhelpful mess. I’ve asked a bunch of questions and have never gotten a response. The FB groups are much much better

[@Tedlasman]

Mistake: not building a k3

[@malloott]

To me this all feels like it's just a really bad design. It might print well, but the assembly and maintenance are just bad

[@alanb76]

The larger Vorons are easier to build. The little ones require advanced skills and extra patience.