Metal Casting at Home Part 119. Scan, Print, Cast. Replica Marklin Donkey Engine

[@RetroSteamTech]

Coming along nicely 👍👍👍 That 3D scanner is quite an amazing bit of kit. Thanks for showing the the attempt that didn't work, it's always reassuring to see that even the masters have problems occasionally 🙂 Also many thanks for the shout-out. Cheers, Alan.

[@ArsonIndustries]

Hey, Ive been watching your casting videos for a few years now. Finally tried doing a casting myself from 3D print for a car part recently. Just wanted to say thank you for these videos they taught me a lot and I was able to end up having some pretty successful results. I dont think I would have been able to do it as confidently as I was able to without having these as a guide.

[@myfordboy]

Happy to help.

[@cra4512]

That scanner is the cat's pajamas.

[@iteerrex8166]

Mr myfordboy, would you do a full review of the scanner, pros and cons and so forth. Thanks.

[@myfordboy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppeUmWd3h8pooqc

[@iteerrex8166]

@@myfordboy Thank you. By the way was that a happy dance for getting a scanner 😆

[@JulianMakes]

Ooooh I’m looking for a revoprint scanner. The scan came out great. And great casting too. Have you tried the mini scanner? Not sure which to get. Ps the workshop isn’t built yet so no videos for a while but I hope to restart again soon. Cheers from Spain/Cataluña! Julian

[@j0hnf_uk]

Amazing what you can do with the technology available nowadays. Although, it's always been possible to do such things, having the technology we have now, makes it so much easier. Now, if only the moulds could be made in a similar way..! 🤔

[@danielstewart3507]

That technology exists. Although not cheap enough for the home hobbyist. It's very interesting. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJzFoKSkgLahq7c

[@tHaH4x0r]

3D printing molds can be done, and is often done for pouring products like silicone, or for making forged carbon fiber parts. Sadly it just cannot stand up to high temperatures so its a no-go for anything that needs to be poured whilst melted at high temperatures.

[@gordon6029]

I bought a pop2 after watching the first scan video. Still playing with it but can’t wait to do exactly what you just did in this video.

[@backwardsmachining7526]

After all these years your still one of my favorite channels. Awesome video.

[@Austeration]

That was brilliant 👍 can't wait for part 2. love your work. Well done my friend.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@kightremin]

These quiet videos are really nice

[@dgberry01]

Would tapping on the feeder tube before removing it, help to get the sand to release from the mold?

[@myfordboy]

That's a good idea.

[@spudnickuk]

After watching your vids and buying almost everything you have I gave it a go today at Forging my own bronze part And it was 80% good As it was a threaded part and a boss on it that had to go into a perfect fit And required a lot of milling and lathe work to achive Well it needed a lot of filing and tlc Anyway if I did not watch your tuts then I would be none the wiser Your a create inspiration.

[@myfordboy]

Happy to help.

[@mathiaspierce9204]

I'm curious if that zinc aluminum needs to be degassed and I wonder why you never put another vent hole for the metal to flow out of?

[@myfordboy]

No need to flux or degass. This metal is interesting. Pour at 500C, it stays liquid much longer than aluminium and is much tougher and heavier. I don't use a riser for small parts

[@aldobruno712]

can you recycle the used sand? congratulations for your videos!

[@myfordboy]

Yes, like this kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmbdkHmZqdmiqM0

[@drpipe]

Great work as always you do make it look easy, but I know that’s not the case, amazing piece of kit.. notice you have changed the mould casements see the groove in them to create more surface area to hold the sand in 💪

[@myfordboy]

Those metal flasks have not been changed, always had the internal groove to hold the sand!

[@FCleff]

Well, that was simply magnificent!! Thank you.

[@SteamerEdge]

A fascinating video - looking forward to this series - thanks Paul

[@cringleengineering7688]

Beutifull looking engine, and another great video, always wanted to try this myself, thank you.

[@Revopoint3D]

Thank you so much for your video!

[@chain3519]

I love how sophisticated your process has become over the years. When I first came across you weren't using 3d printers and certainly not scanners

[@Preso58]

Pretty little engine!

[@julianhudson4538]

Would you mind sharing more info on the pyrometer you used?

[@myfordboy]

Thermometer amzn.to/3jmoXFb Probe amzn.to/3NR5vhQ

[@julianhudson4538]

@@myfordboy Thanks!

[@djzatka]

Which version of creality printer is this?

[@myfordboy]

Not Creality. Flashforge Creator 3.

[@djzatka]

@@myfordboy i thought its creality. I am leaning everything from you sir.. Thanks a lot for making all videos. I will start casting in somedays

[@julias-shed]

Really enjoyed this one. Couldn’t afford to buy the Pop2 but like my Pop 1 😀 would it have been easier to cast it the other way up so the internal hump was self supporting?

[@myfordboy]

It's good practice not to pour directly into the mould. The way I did it there was a well at the bottom of the feeder and the metal flows up through the mould.

[@clytle374]

Always a pleasure to watch you work

[@JohnDavidDunlap]

That scanner is remarkable

[@DrFiero]

Ever tried putting your talc in a cheesecloth 'bag' so you can just sort of shake/puff it on?

[@myfordboy]

That's the tradition method. I have the cheesecloth over the container I am using and it works for me.

[@austinl18]

The work that goes into the mold and pouring is admirable, never-mind the fact that you choose to record and edit these in such a professional manner! Great work - gets the wheels turning for projects in 3D print to cast.

[@mathiaspierce9204]

I'm hoping his knowledge pays off for me too I'm more then positive it will

[@matslundberg1289]

nice, really exciting

[@Smallathe]

Very impressive!

[@ParsMaker]

nice work,

[@charlespurin]

why did you paint it? *what kind of sand or plaster would be used to do a very intricately designed chess piece? i would like to use a blue wax melt away from a gelatine based mould. i wanted an entire chess set made but the metal worker only wanted to do rose coloured brass / 3kgs and $600 fee. couldn't i use aluminium and dyes? or add another metal to the aluminium to change it for a second color? thank you for any reply.

[@cetyl2626]

I theorize that the paint was too create a smooth surface on the 3d printed part

[@myfordboy]

Paint to give a smooth pattern. You can anodise aluminium easily to change the colour.

[@kramerdesign9443]

Why in this situation, is an 'exhaust port' (I'm not sure if that's the right terminology) not used when pouring? I assume the shape of the part being cast somehow dictates that?

[@myfordboy]

You mean a vent or riser. I can do small parts without them. The sand is pourous to some extent. The riser is usualy added to feed the metal as it cools but not needed on this small part.

[@kramerdesign9443]

@@myfordboy that makes sense, thank you!

[@JoZf_Gibson]

Merci

[@sblack48]

I see that you suspended the part by a wire but it doesn’t show up in the scan. How did you remove it?

[@myfordboy]

It's very thin and the contrast in the scanner software was adjusted so it did not show.

[@sblack48]

@@myfordboy that’s a great trick. I have the pop 1 so I’ll try that. Thank you

[@Blue_4-2]

⭐🙂👍

[@TheManLab7]

The term "you can't teach old dogs new tricks" DEFINITELY doesn't apply to you. I'm in my earlier 30's and I'm still very analog. Maybe one day I'll change as I've got to.

[@spudnickuk]

As a Brit. I tend to class Phosphor bronze as a good gun metal, where as Commercial bronze (90% copper and 10% zinc) and architectural bronze (57% copper) 3% Lead and 40% Zinc. Most average Bronze is 88% copper and just to say there is loads of types of Bronze like Aluminium Bronze and manganese and Alpha Bronze & Tin Bronze, anyway the list is long and it is worth finding out the benefits of such as can be good for some parts and no good for others, and machining can test your skills, but the results can be awesome and some ugly one too. Well you have done a nice job on that connecting bar.

[@YMe-hp7hi]

I would like to know a simple easy way to make a ceramic shell slurry for investment casting

[@150flyer4]

Is it possible to shape a block of sand to make a mould directly? I was jus wondering if that’s an option?

[@myfordboy]

You need a pattern. I don't think anyone could just carve out some sand and get the desired shape and dimensions.

[@150flyer4]

Thanks for the reply and all of your videos!!

[@spudnickuk]

im a bit confused , why not just use the original base casting as a model in the sand and poor as like what you have used is that if you get an xbox 360 camera and the SDK files from MS is that you can scan and do the same im sure we have covered such previously anyway nice for you to keep up with your contents as always love watching your channel.

[@20vK]

You can get metal shrinkage when casting, so copying the original would have resulted in a smaller copy. By scanning, you can scale up the size of the 3D printed model to compensate for the expected shrinkage on casting

[@gorak9000]

@@20vK I think it might have to do with the date this video was posted.... just saying

[@gorak9000]

but at the same time, this all looks pretty legit... I don't even know anymore

[@BrianEltherington]

@@gorak9000 Shrinkage is really the reason. Metal shrinks when it cools from molten. He enlarged the print by 101.5% to compensate. The casting is now the same exact dimension as the original.

[@myfordboy]

Not possible to use the original part as a pattern as it is. With the cut out top and front it could not be removed from the sand. Also extra material needs to be added in some areas to be machined later.