Trying to FIX eBay Joblot of Faulty Xbox One Controllers PART 4

Hi, this video series shows me attempting to repair a job lot of faulty Xbox One controllers. I bought 6 of them on eBay from the same seller for £70. This video is part 4.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.

[@irulane990]

This videos are so entertaining. Kinda wish this box was bottomless.

[@lucaspagan3576]

Irulane Ka YES! Vince buy more controllers!

[@lowkeybeatspg]

If only...

[@SPEXWISE]

IMO Trying to fix videos are way better than fix it videos. Keep em coming Vince. You are doing a great service and we all appreciate your time and effort. Hours of repairs, filming and editing etc is lots of work but we all like it so much. This time next year 1 million subs...because your worth it. Not many down to earth channels anymore, all clickbaity titles etc. Nice to have some genuine stuff on YT. Thank you.

[@charlierobson]

Another technique for smd removal is to snip the legs off at the component body and then wipe the legs off the board with a regular iron. Watching you learn has been a real pleasure. Many other people would have given up way before you did.

[@GadgetUK164]

Great job! Loving this little box of controllers! More lol! That board charring - wasn't what you did, it was all part of the damage done to the original IC I think. With failures like that I often cut the pins of the IC to aid removal. You sometimes find they glue the underneath of some SMD components down at manafucture with a tiny blob of glue on the underside of the component (to hold it in place for wave soldering). That large black component that you thought said R something - actually its marked L something (L2?) - it's an inductor. Likely a choke. With regards to that diode - that was something I was screaming out after your checked everything else around that area! When an IC burns up like that always check everything that connects to it, or you can end up with a repeat failure. Marking on the PCB was D23 not O23 =D Easily done, I've may similar mistakes when reading super small print like that! Regards the rumble when used by cable, I wonder if a connection was missing on that little IC you replaced? I would be tempted not to glue over something like that though as you cannot easily revisit it (for example if there is a missing connection for the rumble). I think you are right though that most people would just only ever use the USB cable to charge it. Losing rumble whilst charging isn't the end of the world at all! I enjoyed the video Vince =D

[@GadgetUK164]

@Blu Rogers .?

[@SPEXWISE]

@@GadgetUK164 OOOH can I have a go .?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.? Don't worry I understood your comment, was just making fun of that other .? comment.

[@Mymatevince]

Only 2 more to go now Chris, I will be upset when it ends!!!! I have started on a box of PS4 controllers to delay the sad day when the Xbox One controller box is empty :-( Thanks for the useful tips as usual. I am pretty sure all the legs on that little IC were connected to where they should be although the bottom lot looked a complete mess. I have had a couple of pointers in the comments mentioning I think it was the U3 IC so maybe I can look at it another time. If I come across another burnt component I will snip the legs next time and hopefully there will be less repair to do afterwards. Thanks again for the advice/tips :-)

[@emptytomb4967]

@@Mymatevince these techniques are more interesting to me, than the actual working part, since it'll cut down on time and mistakes.

[@GadgetUK164]

No worries, looking forward to more! I wonder if the PS4 controllers will have as many interesting faults? I think what made these better was the fact that some cowboy had bodged all of them together from faulty parts he had cleared worked on (and messed up!). The most difficult things in life often turn out to be the most rewarding!

[@AdamKeyz]

I think everyone will agree we're all just as addicted and intrigued by these controllers as much as you. So much mystery! Anyway, just a small heads up, the 3.5mm headphone jack was included in an early revision of the original model so just because it has one it doesn't mean it's one of the 2016 models that support Bluetooth. To easiest way to tell the Bluetooth and non-Bluetooth models apart is the design of the front. On the Bluetooth model, the Xbox button is part of the front cover plate that all the other buttons also poke through. On the non-Bluetooth model the Xbox button is part of the shoulder button housing that runs along the top.

[@daniel_peixoto]

For me the best series of the videos that you did. I am literally refreshing the KZbin everyday in order to check if you upload a new video. Well done

[@moosesugar]

you have got really good at fault finding and micro soldering vince i enjoyed this one and number 3 because you was more confident and relaxed cannot wait for your next video

[@diyroby732]

great video Vince. 15:03 As Sorin would say, 500 degrees, high airflow to remove dead components. The "injection" has to be done fast to be less painful.

[@TheOldRogue]

Well done yet again Vince, I was doubting you would push ahead with that burnt board, what a mess. You pushed on and did it, what an outcome, brilliant :)

[@markomadic9234]

Another great job Vince! By the way, your multimeter has diode mode, you can switch to that and check the voltage drop (0.7V to 1.2V are typical values). It should only display a value when you measure it one way around, otherwise you'll know you have a faulty diode

[@MiisterShane]

Best series on YT why is this so entertaining? 😄

[@reikoxan]

opened up a controller today. all the components are so tiny!!! your camera makes them look so big. Love your stuff Mate

[@anthonyhenryhoover9278]

Yesss more more more controllers can’t stop watching as soon as the vid comes out

[@kirkb4989]

Great video series!! After "nuking" the board under repair, I would have switched it around and used the burned board as the spares board and fixed the one that was originally the spares!

[@Live4Ibanez]

The seller has let me down! Haha I loved that. Definitely motivating after getting one fixed, then the second fixed. Honestly after the first 2 parts, I thought you'd had lost all the money spent. It's nice seeing you get something out of this awful lot. Very entertaining

[@DanPottas]

Very pleased u got another one working fingers crossed the next 2 is fixable. Must admit when I seen how bad it looked after u took that chip off I did t think it was gonna be fixed so glad u pulled it off yet again :)

[@keq]

You shouldn't worry about being monotonous, the content is only part of the reason most of us watch. The vast majority come for your personality as a video creator. That is what I find entertaining at least.

[@BlackHedgehog]

You know, if I ever have a problem with my Switch or anything else really I feel like Vince would be a great person to have fix it. :)

[@nicoful86]

I love this "series", so glad I found this channel

[@Mommotexx]

Try replacing the U2 chip, or check the components around that chip. Acidmods says "U2 is for a 3.5v source that powers the LED, IR LEDs and the Rumble motors. It's TP7 on the MCU board"

[@Altirix_]

likely wont be that chip specifically as he is getting LED and IR. but something on that rail that goes specifically to the rumble is gone

[@Mommotexx]

@@Altirix_ chip may be faulty as well, one pin of the chip can probably be the output for the rumbe motor. But yeah, it might not be the chip. Vince could try to take diode mode measurements on the different pins

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the idea, I can try and take a few readings between boards to see if they are different :-)

[@Mommotexx]

@@Mymatevince try taking diode measure with red probe on ground, and the black one on each leg of the chip. Compare with the other board that works :)

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Mommotexx. I will check the U2 and the U3 chip using your method :-)

[@BloodyClash]

:D Vince is Controller-Addicted. Maybe for future repairs it would help you when you make your own schematics of every working board you get. You meassure things you think are most important for you and then write it down. Over time then you have a full schematic of some boards that you are able to read perfectly. Additionally you can lookup in datasheets what resistance or voltage or impendance some parts should have.

[@patrickmorrissey2271]

"This seller has let me down!!! I thought every one would have 2 board faults!!!!" Heh heh heh! That's why you're the best.

[@johnhenry6122]

Love your videos man. I've been watching since you first upload.

[@blasphemer71]

I want more of these videos. I'm considering breaking some perfectly good controllers and sending them to you, to make you fix them. Evil, but entertaining!

[@TechThatYT]

No bad bad bad bad bad

[@martinmeyer2008]

I love the way that you've taken an eBay crook's stuff, made entertaining videos from the stuff, and even though its pennies, adding value to the items (hopefully also some KZbin revenue!). I hope the seller watches this and is kicking himself! Also goes to show that your attitude of perseverance has won over somebody else's attitude of trying to sell junk and cheat people out of their £s!

[@retrogamer64007]

Hahah Vince you got stockholm syndrome with these. But this repair series is best because you truly surpass even professionals since you repair what they can’t. Keep it up. Buy more of these or even PS4 controllers too.

[@AndrewFomin]

Finally, I see Vince if not using but at least admitting that schematics exist. :)

[@Martin-delta]

Would love to see a video where you show us the tools you use. Like soldering station, fume extractor and so on. Love this series.

[@joshheartnet5048]

Im loving it, wouldn't change them for the world :) :) :) And im loving your videos. These videos are so addicting.

[@bryanobrien2726]

Best series ever , hope to see more controller lot vids .

[@willcrayons]

Hey Vince I love these video so much I love watching you repair things. I'm rooting for you every time and I love that you persevered through this seller. My favourite fix video was the megaphone. Not because it was easy, but because it must've been so cool to have a working megaphone, and I loved the laugh you had once you fixed it. have you been using it on your kids to wake them up in the morning? I know I would hate if my parents used that on me XD. I have a request if you could turn down the beep of your multimeter. I'm not asking you to edit audio with every single beep, buy maybe their is a setting somewhere in the multimeter to turn down the volume or at the worst you could cover the hole with some tape?

[@PeteJohnson1471]

Another great fix Vince. I can imagine it must be quite tedious working in such small areas.

[@MrKCDavis]

I agree. Don't be sorry, I'm really enjoying the controllers. Keep doing. Best content you can make, is the content you're enjoying. :)

[@MyklBlue69]

Don't do something else, we want to see them all. We're with you til the end Vince haha. Love the series

[@beavis6363]

24:32 "Gilding the Lilly" (If you don't know the expression it's a fun one to learn, you'll understand instantly). Interesting video as always. As an old school guy it's always somehow strangely satisfying to see jumpers on printed boards.

[@beavis6363]

To adorn unnecessarily something already beautiful. The expression is a condensation of Shakespeare's metaphor in King John: "To gild refined gold, to paint the lily ... is wasteful and ridiculous excess." i.e., you wouldn't need to add gold to a beautiful lily. (and my additional interpretation, attempting to gild a lilly in the first place ultimately only insures it's total destruction)

[@Mymatevince]

Great expression, thanks for explaining it :-)

[@beavis6363]

And don't think for a minute I haven't been there a thousand times. You just have to sigh and figure, well, I did it once, here we go again.

[@LittleRhubarb]

"So this is it Part 4, I've already done part 1,2 and 3" 😂😂

[@jasonbucy]

☝️✌️🤟

[@AfonsodelCB]

seemed to me he was doing that as emphasis on how many parts they were based on the timespan since the first one, and on the things he wanted to do in the meantime :p

[@TechnologistAtWork]

I had no idea 4 came after 3. Boy I was so relieved when he showed us how to count. What a rush.

[@marcosdelfino9695]

when a component dont want to come off : FIrst add solder to the IC's pins, make a fat bridging blob of solder in each side with your soldering iron, then hot air, it will come off easily, then clean the blob of solder with some braid.

[@shutinyanks]

I came to say this! Add some leaded solder or quik chip low melt solder i think its called? Makes it far more melty! Although if that was the ground pad that burnt out previous it might of stayed stuck and bought the pad with it either way. Also that hot air station might want to double check its temp because i doubt it will be as advertised. I have the same one and its not calibrated by any means.

[@ericrichardson3332]

Yes you both are right it makes it easier to remove but if the pads are fused to the component it will still be hard to remove with out damage to traces and from the looks of the burns it burned into the board under the pads

[@FloatingFatMan]

Keep up the controller repairs, I love em! Also, get yourself a micro-pencil soldering iron for those tiny components, and some ceramic tweezers.

[@topouzidd]

I've come across some very stubborn components as well, and it's so frustrating when an ic or cap or resistor doesn't want to be removed! Once, I've dremmeled the legs of the ic and I soldered the new one over the legs of the old one. Ugly but it worked. You should try it.

[@VernandoGames]

The triggers work by calculating the distance between them and the board, without the board in the shell they will not work.

[@Atantuo]

Loving this series! Good to hear you have those PS4 controllers ready for when you've reached the bottom of the current box :) Like others, I'd also love to see you look at a few different models of PS2, and maybe some Gameboys.

[@CLC-1000]

Loving the series Vince.

[@etiennevanharen3893]

Love this series, what an amazing soldering job on that tiny space man, fixing those tracks. kudo's

[@lonjeloco]

Yep still something between u1 to u2. Very odd as the led still works when wired with no battery. It's mentioned under "power" in the acidmod forum.

[@michaelmai3216]

Your a mad man vince, but i love your content and enthusiasm

[@DmaC-dw1mx]

dont know if its been said already, but the triggers work via magnets and sensors on the board, the magnets actuate the sensors so wouldnt work with out the board being correctly situated in the shell.

[@Mbarez94]

These video ARE drugs actually! Greetings from Sicily "Vincenzo" lol

[@halvorlol]

Top notch work as usual Vince!

[@touati84]

Hi keep doing this good work and I have a suggestion when you have two boards to work with, use some red sticker on the bad board that makes recognizing it easly.

[@jacobscudds]

I remember when you saudered your first capacitor. You've grown as a channel and in brain cells. Keep up the good work.

[@jaykoerner]

The triggers are Hal effect sensors, they work via magnets, the wires you see are for in trigger rumble

[@TaoCroatia]

My guess for the rumble motors would be that there are two transistors that output either battery voltage or usb voltage and that the one for usb is not working. Try looking at the schematic where does the rumble motor trace go to.

[@MattP79]

U3 IC supplies the voltage for the rumble motors

[@Mymatevince]

Excellent, I will look at U3 and compare it with a working board to see if it is testing the same. Thanks for the tip :-)

[@Armfan99]

Why are these so interesting lol, good stuff man!

[@willproctor7301]

Great fix, to be honest you are always going to use this wirelesly. Nice one Vince.

[@lonesuk]

Enjoying your fix it videos you have come a long way in experience Vince

[@jackbauer2698]

Vince I think you need the trigger board completely in the casing for the triggers to register movement and actually work.

[@Santr4]

I actually burst out laughing when I saw this video. It has been such a rollercoaster from the first video up to this point!!♥️♥️

[@TechThatYT]

?

[@tonecapone8426]

He cooked that broad I thought I was a kid all over again I was about to get me some s'more

[@dnwheeler]

Sometimes when a part overheats, it will essentially weld itself to the pads. Your best bet in that case (before you burn everything else up) is to clip off the chip legs, and use a soldering iron to try to remove each leg separately. You still might rip off a pad or trace that you'll have to repair (with some very fine wire), but the damage will be localized.

[@peterobrien290]

Can't wait for the PS4 controller series

[@mannixmd]

I'm addicted to this videos

[@jasonbucy]

The music choice this time was 🔥

[@mixmixi100]

Love the videos. First tires to fix the eyebrow, then make them blind, then try to do an eye transplant and keeping the fingers crossed guy would be able to see again... haiz. Keep it up mate.

[@beyondreason420]

@My Mate Vince the reason your triggers didn't work in the initial test with the known good board is because the xbox one controller triggers work using the Hall Effect. The magnet on the trigger stem registers when it passes over a sensor, so the board needs to be in proper position. These controller vids are some of your best!👍

[@mrbridger5]

Another great fix Vince. 👌

[@Levix50]

The triggers have magnets inside of them, and when you move them above the board the little chips on them can sense the changing of the magnetic stuff,the two cables coming from the triggers are only for the rummblemotors inside of the triggers

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you :-)

[@jasonrebello9898]

Keep them coming I'm addicted too!!

[@JohnJeiJei]

"33 killer ohms" 🤣 Great job, Vince! I love watching you attempting to troubleshoot every little issue. Hope you're making money off of this channel, it would be a shame not to. I would recommend you start a Patreon, even without rewards, payment per video (so not monthly), I'm sure there would be people willing to support your next purchases (no rewards means less pressure on you to keep releasing videos).

[@Mike-ox1hs]

love these videos vince.

[@techiebeardie]

Just to let you know Vince, I have started playing an "Xbox Controller Repair Drinking Game". Episode 3 left me waking up at 5am in the garden with the taste of raw meat in my mouth. More of this!!

[@DjIch1]

Vince i think you should keep the heat gun in a ciruclar motion when desolderig and not stay still when heating up a spot, at least that works for me best an pevents burning the pcb.

[@MattP79]

The PCB was burned by the MP2161 - I've had a few like that :(

[@1ninjatiger]

Dont think you have to do something different for us...I think most of us are the same as you with this bloomin box of controllers 😂🤣 weirdly fascinating and entertaining. Keep at them.

[@abdulhkeem.alhadhrami]

Yes, i was waiting for something fun to watch and nothing comes close to my mate Vince video!

[@dodgydruid]

One thing on the rework on the board is to "pot" it by using something like a epoxy because shocks and knocks may knock the repair work off the board, I always use a bit of hot glue as its easy to remove and very tough when in something that gets knocked about. I kept getting water in my headlamp and I just hot snotted it sealed and no more steamy sessions behind the glass going on and been sealed for months.

[@ovalwingnut]

I LOVE YOUR GPD !!!! If I promise you that in the future you "will own" your own Rolls Royce.... can I have your notebook?

[@killertruth186]

Ok....I had felt a bit stupid when trying to fix my controller stick drift. I had the y axis sensor backwards. But now it works! Although I have to resolder the rumble back on.

[@mikefellows3901]

Superb work Vince ! Compulsive viewing as ever :o)

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you :-)

[@bloodlinegaming9962]

the problem was mostly your nozzle for the hot air. with a small chip like that you want it to be about the size of the chip itself if not a little bigger, the one you was using was just spreading the heat to fast to everything else around it so the temp the actual chip was getting just wasnt good enough to melt the no-lead solder that it probably has. to help with this you can make a quick pass with leaded solder which helps wick up the hard to work with stuff. Hope that helps a little :-)

[@MattP79]

Alas, no. The chip got so hot it welded itself to the pads. There is no kind way to remove it.

[@hinelinen]

Lmao that's the BIGGEST pair of hot tweezers I've ever seen!

[@BenjermanKulandaisamy]

Even if you are a expert it's really good to have a reference

[@abzhuofficial]

What a change of emotions... In terms of just liking to try fixing them that is. :)

[@jokeheart1900]

Slow down on the cofee Vince ! You should use Iron to remove the component before burning down the house ! Keep going mate !

[@Lardzor]

Your struggle with removing that IC with the heat gun makes me wonder. When the chip failed, did it get so hot that it welded the metal from the pins to the metal of the solder pads. I'm not talking about the solder, I'm talking about the actual metal of the pins welded to the copper solder pads. Solder has a low melting point, and the metal of the pins and copper have a much higher melting point. Could the IC have reached those temperatures when it failed?

[@chriscutts3765]

100% agree with you.

[@waderyun.war00034]

You should have added new fresh solder with a soldering iron before using the heat gun to desolder it. It's still fixable but it will take a lot more work to fix it now.

[@ÐĩŜğÛšÐĕÂň]

when you click buzz could you check to see where the voltage stops?

[@user-wj9hy8ci2d]

Given your knowledge , when i replace a analog thumbstick because it had drift, why does it still drift with whole new sensor ? Tried 3 different kinds. Tried a few different controllers that had drift one of four fixed issue

[@X320riginal]

Can we be friends?

[@SharkyMoto]

this leadfree solder is kinda impossible to get off using a heatgun, i noticed that several times. best thing to do is trying to go in with the iron and saturate it with regular lead based solder so you can remove it easier afterwards :D

[@MattP79]

Nah. 380°C is fine for removing the components. The board is thin and doesn't absorb the heat unlike the Xbox console boards.

[@MattP79]

Very nice :). The chips do effectively weld themselves to their pads when they die like that. There's no nice way to remove them. If I buy another one in that state I'll be trying to cut the pad/trace with a knife to limit the damage. The chip that melted itself is an MP2161 - datasheet is here: www.monolithicpower.com/pub/media/document/MP2161_r1.1.pdf My understanding is MP2161 (U1) takes the USB 5v and step down converts it to around 3 volts which U3 (an MP3414) converts to the 3.3v voltage for the logic board and U2 (also an MP 3414) converts to 3.5V for the rumble motors. As for why the rumble motors don't work when powered from USB - I would want to check the voltage output of U1. I suspect it may be too low for two possible reasons, both linked to the charred PCB around the U1 area. The charred PCB is likely now conductive. Potentially the voltage selection on U1 (by the two tiny resistors) is being affected or the charred PCB could just be providing a high resistance short to ground. Just a theory! Also, don't install new U1 chips on the board upside down. They don't like that.. Also also, dead U1 chips can often short the power rails to ground so even batteries won't power the controller. You can remove U1 and the controller will work just fine from batteries. I found that out after removing/reinstalling almost every capacitor chasing a short to ground to find out it was U1 which had no outward sign of failure. 🙄 New U1 - alles gut!

[@topouzidd]

About the rumble: check the 2ch optocoupler again, or the 2 large capacitors next to it, you've been blowing hot air on them for a very long time.

[@percaine]

Could there be a broken solder joint or some corrosion on the connectors that join the 2 boards together? Just an idea..I don't know much at all about xbox one.

[@ovidiu7290]

I can't wait too to see the next controller :)

[@mahlapropyzm9180]

95th. Vincemeister wins again! I think your annoyance at being ripped off is motivating you to fix them all :)

[@lucaspagan3576]

The part with the R91 is called a Inducter

[@HassanDibani]

You could have added leaded solder to the legs of that burned IC would have lowered the melting point and made it easier to pick up. Thanks for the videos by the way, learning a lot from you and making many mistakes in the process. Stuck with 2 ps4 boards currently.

[@MattP79]

Check for water damage under the MCU. I had two - one wouldn't communicate over USB (console sync) or charge correctly - the other had buttons that didn't work. Both had liquid damage under the MCU (and generally around the boards). Flux, heat and an IPA bath bought both back to life.

[@Ohem1]

Out of curiosity, considered buying used/defect Playstation VR pieces and fix them up? There's supposedly a way to connect the set to a PC as well, it's a bit involving software wise but doable. Haven't seen any in-depth review about it.

[@Club_Michas]

Next time you should clean the contacts with fresh solder and a solder iron, after that use your hot air and flux to remove the old IC...it should come up very quickly. If you heat up the caps and resistors as long as you did here it will destroy them.

[@deathray0718]

hey just a heads up next time you check the triggers use a small magnet because the triggers on the xbox one controllers use a hall effect sensor for that.

[@frankie352]

Hey Vince. What rework station do you use??? I am trying to get into repairs myself and am curious to what work station I should get. Thanks for any help!

[@ericrichardson3332]

When components burn into circuit boards it usually destroys the traces , and I believe that part that burned was a voltage regulator but I'm not sure

[@lucaspagan3576]

Vince try carefully take apart those soldering tweezers to replace that spring with one that requires less strength to compress.

[@Tim_3100]

I thought when i saw the damage that would be it but good to see it working even without the buzz on usb