Trying to FIX: Robotic Vacuum Cleaner - Eufy RoboVac 30C

Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to repair a robotic vacuum cleaner purchased from eBay. Apparently the fault is that it is not charging even when the battery was replaced.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.

[@aakasoto]

The coating on the board is called conformal coating. The liquid damage would probably be a lot worse without it.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the info :-)

[@Christopher_T_Paul]

Whenever I click on your "trying to fix" videos, I hope for a long one. Always dissappointed to see an easy fix. I guess I just like to see you work hard for your videos :)

[@trebor490]

Great job Vince! Now sit your cat on top of it, turn it on, record, and then add your video to the millions of other cat videos here on KZbin.

[@smikee]

Well done Vince, nice fix and thoroughly enjoyable to watch.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Mike👌

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

YEEEES! FINALLY SOME THING I HAVE BROKEN AT HOME IN THIS MOMENT!!!!

[@jeremiefaucher-goulet3365]

You spilled water around the battery connector too?

[@ferris7290]

break it open and tell VInce what the component is

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

No my have a fully charge battery but dose not go blue or go nothing usefull at al

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

My board is slightly diffrent

[@ijaygee1]

Vince, that SK34A is most likely for reverse voltage protection to prevent damage from someone using the wrong power adapter. Oh, and Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key".

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you :-)

[@getyerspn]

​@@Mymatevince I can recomend Electrolube SCC3 clear conformal coating ...I've used it many many times on equipment that operates outdoors..hasn't let me down yet...Also I'm impressed with you're thirst for knowledge.

[@glaubhafieber]

ijaygee1 scotch key is the key to unlock your minibar 😹 cheers

[@gunpowderboardgames]

It looks very similar to the Proscenic 850T, I quite enjoy buying these from boot fairs and fixing them. Bit of a hobby! I have a problem with mine after 10 seconds saying fan error. Still trying to work this out but your video is good to teach me how to use my multimeter, which I also bought at a boot fair.

[@kevinnapier3056]

Made up with this one Vince, love seeing you bringing life back to things that would otherwise be thrown away. You're an inspiration

[@standishgeezer]

Nice fix! A Schottky Diode (pronounced Shot-key) as you said, has a lower voltage drop than other diodes. What that means is that when, say, 9 volts is passed through a typical silicon diode there will be a voltage drop of 0.6 to 0.7 Volts which results in a lower output voltage (after passing through the diode) of 8.3V to 8.4V whereas, with a Schottky diode the typical voltage drop would be between 0.3V to 0.4V and the output voltage would therefore be between 8.6V and 8.7V. Very important if the circuit requires diode protection but relies on a voltage of not much less than the original input voltage. Hope that makes sense.

[@Mymatevince]

It does make perfect sense to me now. Thank you :-)

[@WildSccotsman]

Nice one Vince. Lucky the water damage only took out the diode. I would probably give it another clean with IPA if and when you replace the diode for the correct one. Really nice it wasn't too difficult especially when the seller obviously lied about the problem.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Scotsman :-)

[@chrismaslennikov4064]

Vince I just wanted to give this video a little comment it actually helped me fix one I bought that was not working (not the same model or even make).... I had to replace a bearing on the roller motor :) works great!

[@scottchampion3511]

Very interesting. Nice one Vince 👍

[@markomadic9234]

Great video Vince. By the way, the "R"400 (I don't think that's an R), is likely a PTC/PPTC resettable fuse, or polyfuse, surface mount obviously. They usually have the dimples on both ends. Different manufacturers have different markings, but I'd say you have a 400mA one on your hands.

[@markomadic9234]

i.e. something along these lines: tny.im/kBg People have said that it could be a current sense resistor, and while I've not come across one like that myself, I cannot discount the possibility.

[@javasrevenge7121]

I have watched now 2 uploads of you Vince, I am enjoying them and I do know more about the robot vac cleaners now. Pittely my issue is not resolved (yet)

[@TheSlysterII]

Great video Vince, glad you got it working in the end, watching the end was like watching a man with a new pet lol!

[@hillonwheels8838]

Great fix and would like to get your feelings in a later video about this vac. I think it is kinda a crap robot vacuum. It has no suction so it is depending on the bottom brush to fling the dirt into the bin in the back. The price I see it online for new you can get other vacs with a camera so it knows where it is and have an actual vacuum pump to do more then just sweep up surface dirt. I have watched to many VacuumWars videos on youtube so I think I know more then I do :)

[@kriswillems5661]

It's a good idea to use a shottky diodes were there's supposed to be one. A normal diode will have a higher forward voltage drop, which will cause partial loss of power. In your case the (lost) diode acts as a reverse voltage protection.

[@MrProvinspoul]

Soldering skills is not your best skill, I'm sorry to say that, but it's amazing that it works after this treatment! But anyway congratulations with it.

[@fritzj6803]

Great tutorial. Next time you can apply some flux and some low melting leaded solder to remove the diodes easily.

[@Tim_3100]

Your name should now be if vince can't fix it no one can 🙂 great fix

[@josephnealescratchcards]

Another great video as always 👍🏻❤️

[@Dinkleberg96]

I'm glad that warranty in the most of countries in Europe is 2 years instead of just 1

[@rocktoroll77]

That was a good video hope u do a revisit I know a few people that just threw them away wished I would’ve gotten them

[@MrMaxeemum]

Good fix, but it seems that the side motor spinning before it starts means that there is a shorted mosfet for that motor so it will not turn off until you hit the off switch. you should be able to compare it with the other side. Hope that helps.

[@Mymatevince]

Wow, I didn't read this comment before I filmed the revisit video. Turns out you are spot on with the MOSFET :-)

[@scottgibson7534]

Shot-key is how it sounds. Basicly a Schottkey diode has a greater barrier, higher surge current capabilaty, faster switching, less forward voltage drop than a Germanuin diode. Think along it, like the difference of a standard pnp npn transitor and a FeT.

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you Scott :-)

[@hex1934]

@@Mymatevince Thank you to Scott Gibson for the pronunciation. I remember Germanium diode in college, and Schottky in the 1970's with discrete logic before semiconductors took over. How about 4 bit logic gates.

[@Dankish1809]

Vince you forgot to do your signiture yess yess and fist pump. For real you need to make that into a T-shirt with you fist pumping and a speech bubble that says Yes Yes!! lol I'd buy it for sure. I loved the video I am glad you got it working in the end.

[@ThomasWinders]

41:52 - I think it's pronoucend "SHOTTKY" ("SHOT"-"KEY"). Coating on board is protective wax. Excellent work there!

[@einsp227]

I love the seller said it could be the board, well fucking yea....they knew it was.

[@chrisstyles4630]

Was c94 missing as well ???

[@SecondHandDIY]

hey vince the letters and numbers are the id and location for each part on the board here a little help if it has a say r127 that means its a resistor d134 would be a diode the first letter is the identifier of the part type and the number is the location on the circut board if you would like to know more you can look them up or can ask me i figure this might help you on your diagnosing

[@SecondHandDIY]

and i have found to me water damaged item are to me one of the easyer thing to fix this looks to be a very simple and easy repair you do a great job on your videos keep up the great work

[@unimportant5122]

L4 is a power inductor. Such a power inductor with Schottky diodes close to it is highly likely to be part of a buck or boost converter. Such converters rely on the high speed of Schottky devices (nearly no reverse recovery time). Don't go and replace those diodes with normal silicon diodes which are way too slow and will damage the converter (nearly instantly).

[@nikojenner4838]

uh B&O stuff, very nice! I have a amplifier with speakers from mid 70's

[@preswex4282]

Hi great video and much appreciated. Just wondering if you could help me. I replaced one of the side brush motors. The motor works fine but like most of the reviews about the replacement mounting screws holes they didn’t match up I had to leave one of the three screws out. The machine works fine except now when it parks on the charger I don’t get the orange light. Something has happened after I reassembled the unit. Please do you have any ideas. Thank you again.

[@kriswillems5661]

The big resistor R400 which has very little ohms (0.4) is for current sensing.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Kris :-)

[@davidmorse1659]

Cracking job

[@andreallridge1695]

I've got the same issue, though my indicator light changes from blinking orange to still red. When I check voltages, the base provides 18.6V, so what's expected. Checking voltage on the pins of the battery connector on the Robovac itself however don't show that, but only 4Vish. Am I correct in assuming that the 18.6V from the base should also be on those pins which charge the battery, or is the charging done with a lower voltage?

[@frankwong1539]

Vince, I have a US Robotics 761 was excellent except for an unknown reason it fell down the stairs to the basement and it can charge but cannot run. It always senses the edge and would not go through but while I was in the other room I heard the vacuum tumble all the way down. Ever since it doesn't run it could charge and audio sound heard I even took it apart but not with your expertise unable to see anything wrong. Any suggestion?

[@gizmo1252000]

dear vince ,i noticed you have that handy usb pin out dongle , could you please let me know where you purchased it ,i would be very grateful regards sion :) . p.s thanks for the microscope link you sent me last time ,i have now purchased it and it really has been useful to say the least :P

[@OliverHoerold]

Good job! Now I have to have a look at my Roomba that isn't charging ... -.-'

[@davidrobert8706]

yo as a speed head who likes cins skip and tips I like your enthusiastic nature of taking shit apart lol. Wish I knew what you knew lol. If you ever wanted to do some "teach a dumbass who got random electricals" then yo sick lol seriously my brother killing it lol

[@Randomvideos-wz2mc]

That's a good job 👍 brother but not everyone able to do it

[@LegendSpecialist]

Great work💪

[@booca_znaet]

Hello. Do you have electrical diagram of this device? Thank you.

[@HazzaTL2]

No quick versions?

[@missionpassed4584]

I do get fed up of dodgy ebay sellers that basically lie, I bought a camera off ebay about a year ago, the seller put something like my dads old camera, selling for him, camera says lens issue on screen, I bought it and straight away as I unwrapped it it rattled like a rattle can, my heart sank as I took it apart the lens inside was totally destroyed, I nearly just threw it in the bin, fortunately i had a change of heart but spent the same as I paid for the camera about £50 again for a lens, I did manage to fix it and it works great, but the seller must have know it rattled but never mentioned it.

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

Revisit vote! :)

[@D3M0320]

C94 underneath the “RIGHT - VIR - WALL - JACK” on the upper right hand corner looks like it’s missing a component

[@AWARHERO]

Have you tried a broom? ;)

[@nathanmead140]

the battery is a eightteen six fifty and from the voltage and capacity i think its 4 batteries in seires and they should have used bigger ones and a 2 amp charger

[@robertovers1863]

hi vince he used a friend to shill bid against you, exposed your maximum bid, then gave you a second chance to buy, you should have made a counter offer.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Robert, that did cross my mind as the 2nd chance offer came in very soon after the auction had ended!!! :-)

[@Sam_Holt]

He's totally leaving that diode in there lol

[@kevinbuick9989]

Probably the robot vacuum cleaner scared the owners cat and the cat got its pay back on the poor wee robot vacuum

[@TheTTVert]

Vince, I was watching another of your videos last night and was telling my wife how impressed I was and how far you've come in the last 10 months. From your diagnostic skills to your soldering skills. I remember your first videos w/ the hot air station and kapton tape and now how today your end result is very professional. Well done my friend, keep it up!

[@daveglo100]

yeah, just made a comment around this after spotting his sub count then scrolling down to see this comment

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you so much :-)

[@TheTTVert]

@@Mymatevince thank you. look forward to seeing your new videos pop up. At this point you are teaching me things. All this in ten months, way to go!

[@qifacui4776]

，

[@kdry1245]

@@daveglo100 kkr

[@PepsisFormosa]

Hi Vince! Love your videos. The Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key". Just thought I'd let you know for future videos!

[@SuperZylar]

the bit about diodes is simple: if you use a geranium diode with a forward voltage drop of 0.6 volt it is with a current of 3 amps P=UxI 0.6x3= 1.8 watts of heat. with a scottky diode with a forward voltage of 0.2 volt is ofc 0.2x3 = 0.6 watts so less heat to dissipate into the PCB. So, now for the fast recovery, simply said, imagine this: there is a guy in front of your door and you let him in, the taller the guy the more volt, the heavier the guy the more amps, the bigger legs, the quicker he is and the lighter, stronger the gate the faster you can close it behind him and more force of him hitting it the door can handle. So with a geranium diode, the door is large, made of simple OSB on an iron frame, it is big, heavy and takes a few seconds to close. 230v 50 hz no problem, the time the guy (230 V 5 Amps 50Hz) turns around the door is shut (simple bridge rectifier) now you get a guy bin trough a gate already, so 300v somewhat DC 1A 150Hz) so the guy is tall, light but he reacts pretty fast, so i need a gate that is light so i can close it fast, needs to be tall for him, but does not has to be strong. so aluminum with some plywood should be good. now comes switching voltage, like switching power supply's, 340 volt 10kHz 3 Amps. Now we get tall guy's who are heavy and fast as feck. now we need a diode what has a high current, fast recovery and is strong with reverse voltage. so a gate what is 3,4 meters tall, 3 meters wide, but can close in a few microseconds after they past the gate. Also, remember with witch each bang to a gate a bit of heat is generated . I hope my real simple explanation of diodes helps a bit.

[@WildSccotsman]

I think you meant standard silicon diode has forward voltage of 0.6 volts. Germanium diodes have a forward voltage of about 0.3 volts. I agree with the rest of your comment.

[@SuperZylar]

@@WildSccotsman you are absolutely right, something about Wochenend und saufen The doide on top next to the connector is an diode to kill spikes it does it slow so it is an cheap silicon diode

[@TampaTec]

Your subs skyrocketed congrats 500k, 1mil around the corner 👏👏👏 🚀

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you Paul, you're a good guy :-)

[@HeyItsKayJayBae]

1 year later and halfway there !

[@Rvthless__]

This KZbinr is amazing

[@waynestyles4523]

The seller used another account to snipe you. They wanted to find your high bid to drive up price. Saves fees on buy it now listings. Ps love the vids, now hooked.

[@Mymatevince]

I did think that may be a possibility :-( Cheers mate :-)

[@FieroFats]

Just watching the video, and that's exactly what happened. Crooked sellers raising the price of the things they are selling. It's an actual crime in real world auctions, I'm not sure how it would work on the internet. There should be a simple way for Ebay to see who is connected through which IP address, but that would cut into their profits, wouldn't it.

[@waynestyles4523]

@@FieroFats the IP does not work when using either a snipe web site, which ebay allow with the stupid cover up it's not the last bidder, but the highest that wins. True if the highest paid up. Been going on for years, even a report topic for it but they always say no proof.

[@oliverer3]

Could also have been someone who wasn't paying attention and missed the part about it being faulty and didn't want to admit it

[@mahlapropyzm9180]

Fantastic fix - these things are fun to have but way too expensive to buy new. Well done!

[@Chaostheory1971]

Great fix, Vince! I love the jubilation in your voice when the end result is a success. I'd love to see a revisit with it working with the remote, Alexa etc please

[@ianofliverpool7701]

Me also

[@DanielCordone73]

Hi Vince, such an entertaining video thank you! That big black component marked R 400 (around 33:35 ) is a current sensing resistor. It is a special kind of 1ohm resistor with a high power rating (hence its size). In this case it is being used as a reference to be able to provide feedback to the microcontroller about how much charge is left in the battery. ( By knowing the Resistance of the reference - 1 ohm - and by reading a current value - Ohms law you can be used to calculate the voltage of the battery pack. Great video! would love to see more repairs like this one!

[@Mymatevince]

Brilliant info. Thank you :-)

[@solveit1304]

Scottky diode got same behavior as normal diode, but scottky got less voltage drop so less heat is generated.

[@michaeld1879]

Loved the excitement you had when your doorbell rang for the B&O delivery. Normally, persons aren't so happy to receive a defective product.

[@clivetucker176]

One of the most pleasing things I have watched in months. 👍 Definitely worth a revisit.

[@jacksat2252]

Vince , As you buy mostly from Ebay ,surch for "SMD sample book" you have them for resistors and caps and diodes" You will always have the most common spare smd parts for a reasonable price to do your testing. Can find them cheaper on Ali if you want. just buy what you think need the most and buy it and the next month you can buy the caps book ond so on .they don't take much space and you always have something that fit. And buy the 0805 ,these are the most common size ,and if you have to replace a 0605 you can mostly fit a 0805 and the other way to ,if it is a bigger size . If it works you can always buy a correct size part or leave it in. Nice video again.

[@GadgetUK164]

Fanastic job! Awesome pickup!!! To pull a current through that PSU (see my Neo Geo AES PSU repair - the most recent one). Using ohms law you can calculate a resistor size (ohm and wattage) and connect it up to draw whatever current you want to pull. That shiny-ness is a conformal coating! It's pronounced "Shot-key" - I always struggle with that too lol, I bloomin well call em Scotty diodes :o) That diode is going to be there for reverse polarity protection (probably). Uprating it as you suggest (assuming it was the lower rated part originally) will likely be fine. As you saw schottky diodes switch faster (that's useful when you want to protect parts of a circuit or get a quicker response to the signal going through it. And the lower forward voltage drop is simple - Take a 1N4001 diode for example, I think that has a 0.7v drop, so if you feed say 5v into its anode, on the cathode side you will measure 4.3v. (it drops by that amount). On schottky diodes its typically less, eg. 0.6v, 0.3v or even 0.15v (like the diodes I often use for CR-2032 mods where NiCads were originally used). It will make little difference to something like the area this is used on this vaccuum.

[@ianofliverpool7701]

The next thing I do often after watching a Vince video is look for helpful comments like yours GadgetUK so thanks for the tips:) Oh and I subscribed to you.

[@GadgetUK164]

@@ianofliverpool7701 Thanks, much appreciated =D

[@Mymatevince]

Brilliant as per usual Gadget. Nice one:-) I will check out your Neo Geo AES PSU repair, thank you :-)

[@jameslangridge5878]

Awesome video, love these!

[@hamishspencer]

It's pronounced shot-key. Thanks for the vids.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Hamish :-)

[@Jeff121456]

The package used VR for reverse voltage because it is a lazy way of writing the mathematical notation V subscript r.

[@christufft5171]

My Eufy 30C has 'clean drop sensor' error 3 beeps and flashing red. Do you know of any way to bypass these sensors on the circuit board. I've attempted unplugging them but same error. I feel the issue maybe deeper into the circuit board as tried looking at them through a camera and can't see any light emitting from them at all so appear dead. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as not a lot online for this model showing repairs of this sort.

[@dodgydruid]

I saw quite a few components missing and one resistor was hanging off between a tiny bridge of solder near the second SK34A diode. Looks like someone has done a hatchet job to the poor thing :(

[@thomasesr]

congratulations on your new pet robot!

[@awesome.gaming]

I especially enjoy the videos where you solve the issue(s) and bring something back to life! Congrats, Vince!

[@nightstah]

Really enjoyed this one, Vince. And I agree, that residue seems to be a protective coating likely to guard against casual exposure to moisture.

[@Wilksey37]

It's pronounced Shot Key, and the forward voltage (VF) is how much the voltage drops by when conducting, same as LEDs, so 0.6V VF means i you have a ~5V supply with a diode it will be ~4.4V at the other side of the diode. It is better to overrate the diode current than underrate it if it used as reverse polarity protection, there should (in good practice) be a fuse that will catch any overcurrent. Oh and the waterproof layer over the board is called conformal coating usually an acryllic protective layer to stop water ingress, or supposed to, not sure what happened to that board.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Wilksey :-)

[@sloop24]

This is the first video I have seen of yours and I really enjoyed it. It was so suspenseful for me and I was so excited when you got it working. Great job!!!

[@muhammadsarwar4785]

I watch your video that was excellent and learned a lot

[@johnlundy846]

vine love you u allways come up with someing new

[@TechGorilla1987]

That varnish coating on the board is called a *conformal coating* and is designed to protect against external elements to an extent.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Tech :-)

[@CannibalShadow]

You've come a long long way, good work.

[@DieselRamcharger]

"shot key" diode is used because its fast. it'll block reverse current fast enough to protect sensitive microprocessors and such down stream. the low forward voltage drop just means in the way you would expect current to flow, there isn't much drop across the device. Meaning its efficient/less heat.

[@ronaldfinnerty7926]

Agreed with schotkey description....add....the forward voltage you measured was 0.2 volts hence low forward voltage. A standard diode will have a voltage drop somewhere between 0.6 to 0.4 volts.

[@kalmangt2265]

Another great video! something to try when trying to remove the corrosion use a little distilled water with baking soda to a paste then have a go with a little scrub

[@michaelthomas3646]

reverse voltage usually means if something fails in the circuit, then it won't allow the voltage polarity to be reversed, and send a massive shock to the other components. or say the wrong polarity power supply is used, then it won't send power to anything before that point. and 1,000v means most power supplys on the market won't short circuit anything in the circuit from the diode to the battery seen as so close to the battery terminal. and the more voltage the diode is good for the less likely it is to allow the current to be reversed or blow the diode. at least that is my understanding on reverse current resistance.

[@michaelthomas3646]

but at the same time you don't want the reverse diode to be too high because of heat disapation.

[@canalboating]

Nicely done Vince, very enjoyable watch 👍

[@danandrei96]

R147 is most likely a current shunt, a low-value, high power resistor that allows the vacuum to measure the current

[@jaroslavtatar4035]

You should get yourself some ceramic tweezers :)

[@PihkalTheTihkal]

Hi Vince, just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to fix my own robotic vacuum cleaner. Wasn't anything near as difficult as yours as all I did was replace the battery (and soldered the correct connector on the new battery) but still, it's fixed. Thanks!

[@mr.mythoclast4451]

eigthteen-six-fifty

[@ZaPpaul]

Great stuff Vince, nicely done. Oh and they are pronounced 'Shot key' diodes, they are basically just better performing diode than PN type.

[@Mymatevince]

Nice one Paul :-)

[@speedwaynutt]

Well this fix is hopefully going to suck. Yes that was a vacuum cleaner pun

[@chrisstyles4630]

😂😂😂😂

[@ZaPpaul]

I need to sell mine. It's just collecting dust.

[@Nelwyn]

I had one of these briefly. It did clean very well, but I needed a vacuum with home mapping so I returned it and got a Roborock S6. The bouncing all over the place would be fine in a smaller house, but would probably never get everywhere in a larger home. It does start to go home when the battery is low and slows down the brushes, but it has no idea where home is until it makes a pass in front of the charger so it could still go off in the wrong direction for a while. I suppose it has enough battery power to make it in most cases if it's not too far away.

[@rck_anchs_c]

It's pronounced 18 6 50

[@lucaspagan3576]

r1ck_ 5anch3s_c137 👍

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks R1ck :-)

[@rck_anchs_c]

@@Mymatevince anytime

[@discocrisco]

Me and all of my vaping buds call those cells "eighteen six fifties". They're roughly 18mm in diameter and 65mm long.

[@Player-rr5gk]

It’s not cool to vape

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you Disco :-)

[@Dr.-Smart]

if the battery voltage falls under a certain voltage , the charge circruit will plainly not charge happens to dashcams , phones and all sorts of devices , even gopro cameras u can charge the battery on a bench supply , just follow the voltages on the battery itself (in this case a 4 cell series = 14.4v )

[@thomasesr]

Well done indeed!

[@dodgydruid]

Bang and Olafson were the dogs danglies once upon a time, as a kid we had this huge B&O black and white BeoVision and it was all curvy edges and funky push buttons and had a very early IR remote. BeoCentre's were the best of the lot too, the one I had you had remote speakers in every room and a little thing clipped to your belt and as you walked into a room the music would fade from the other room and increase in the room you were going into and each speaker acting as a relay for your remote sending back to the main unit. I even had a speaker in the loo as nothing like a bit of Who in the loo hehe

[@gorjy9610]

you really need to put a proper diode in place of that 5408. One you took is part of local power supply, probably for 5V rail. You can see how unstable that rail is just by watching shimmering of power LED. Same rail is probably used by microcontrollers, wifi and so on so you can expect problems in work and maybe even some damage on them.

[@BakedPrawns]

Great fix Vince 👍🏼 I have to say I enjoy these videos where you don’t have a spare to compare with. Really shows your problem solving on a more difficult and technical way

[@abzhuofficial]

Vince: "Hey Eufy, here's some ground peppercorns - eat, my darling robohoover" Eufy: "Rrrrrrrrrhhhh, omnomnom, rrrrrrrrhhhh " Oh, sorry for the spoiler. Also gotta love how these robohoovers move around like a cute digital pet. Hahaha

[@Atantuo]

Yeah. Just like pets, they're entirely unnecessary, but so adorable

[@abzhuofficial]

@@Atantuo Point agreed haha

[@hnasje66]

you can charge a 18650 safely with a power supply if you set it to nr of cells * 4.1V. its 4.2 max but to keep it a bit on the safe side. Additionally, you can limit the current to 0.5A