N GAUGE MODEL RAILWAY BASICS - TRACK

[@gotham1-ken588]

Very clear and so worth watching as I’m only starting with N gauge. 👍

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Brilliant, so good to read that and I’m glad my videos are helpful to you. If you have any questions please say and I’ll do my best to help.

[@gotham1-ken588]

@@piccadillymodelrailways I have quite a lot of trains never run yet the Virgin boxed book set which has a lot of carriages & others I take it I’m best buying a digital controller from the start? Does that run all types of N gauge ? I’m going to watch all your videos over the next few nights, so clear and helpful

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Sounds like you’ve got the basis for a good start. You asked about a digital controllers, yes go digital or DCC as it’s known. I run a Z21, but there are many systems. I suggest discuss your requirements with a shop. They are best to advise. Yes one controller will control all brands of loco. BUT you will need 1 or more decoders for every locomotive (HST takes two - in powercars) either 6 pin or next18. It should tell you on each box what you need. Please be aware decoders are not cheap (£10-35, Don’t buy cheap they are rubbish and can burn out - aim for £20-30) Remember this is for every loco you have. It can get very expensive very quickly. You could get a single/ pair of decoders to get you going then get more when you are ready. PLEASE DO NOT RUN A DCC READY LOCO ON LIVE DIGITAL TRACK it can and will burn out the motors. ONLY PUT THEM ON TRACK WHEN THEY ARE FITTED WITH A DCC DECODER (or DCC FITTED or DCC SOUND). DCC track is a form of AC current or alternating current at 16v whereas analogue using DC or direct current at 12v you can run DCC fitted locos on analogue never DCC ready, ie no decoder, on DCC. Hoping that’s understandable and helpful. You could buy a standard DC or analogue controller though and run trains out of the box, but it’s one at a time or they all move at the same time. Sorry it’s an essay but I hope helpful.

[@LeslieGilpinRailways]

Some clear demos there, there are always tips even experienced modellers need reminding of.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thx Leslie, I only did this as I had a few comments and messages from people saying they were sure how to lay, space, join track etc

[@nicholasgomez2502]

Great video with lots of useful tips for both beginners and vets. I've been using Fleischmann track with 6 different radii, ranging from 194.6mm (almost useless!) to 765mm, with a 33.6mm progress except for their last two. I can't emphasise enough something you say - beware of very tight curves, many engines can't take them!!

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Nicholas, not sure where you are based, but in UK PECO are the main manufacturers of track, there are others but not available in my local model shops. I learnt the hard way regarding sharp curves and short radius points

[@johnfenney2493]

Fantastic. Loads and loads of useful information from an experienced modeller. Cheers.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks John glad it was helpful.

[@TRAMJUNCTION7147HG]

Great video John for the beginner, starting to design and build a model railway in N or 00 gauge. Like you say, some people frown on these track cleaning rubbers, but if they did any real damage to the track, Peco would not sell or recommend them in the first place. I use them together with a graphite stick, which after using the rubber, puts an invisible graphte coating on the rail head, which helps to get a good electrical contact between the rail and the loco wheeles. Next time I do a video I will show one of these grahite sticks, they are cheap to buy and last almost forever. Cheers for now.......................Geoff

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Yes I fully agree Geoff, I’ve got some, they certainly do help. I just wanted to keep the video as simple as poss

[@medwaypeninsulaMR]

Graphite stick Geoff thanks for the tip which I will use …...…..Cheers Kev

[@Chandwell]

Good stuff, showing the basics. Always things to learn (and re-learn). Love the cork cutting advice.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks, I can’t take credit for much of this, as we each pick up things as we go along

[@Chandwell]

Piccadilly Model Railway By John Warner Yes, that’s true, but it is how we all learn and it is good to see knowledge being passed on.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

I do my best , lol. Enjoyed your bridge construction, as other day. Was in hurry so didn’t have time to comment, then forgot, ooops.

[@MM-vt1ir]

Nice one John. Well informed video, and a need to know. Cheers. Iain

[@quarryjunction-1969]

I learnt the hard way with the small points on my last OO layout, hence thank you for the advice on the long points which are on order as we speak. Cheers John

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi Jason, you are welcome, sadly I learnt that way too. Although space can be an issue.

[@onnomulder9775]

Very interesting video John! Thanks for sharing. Cheers Onno.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Ono, glad you liked it.

[@Locoforce]

this layout is actually incredible! im actually mindblown by the stock you have here, i have subbed, cheers, adam - magor junction

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thank you, that’s really kind of you. Most of the layout is scratch built including Manchester Piccadilly station and New Mills Central. The layout is undergoing change but will be extended when the room window has been replaced

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Please do check out my other channel OO gauge Piccadilly Sidings kzbin.info/door/BpgT3gyJSORjh09fv3Y_mg

[@peaks4719]

Another excellent informative video showing anyone how to build a layout from the basics up this along side the wiring video yesterday is excellent

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Sam, after the point video, I had messages and comments from people who needed help about laying track etc etc etc

[@paultaylor9652]

Learnt a lot thanks for such an informative video.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

You’re very welcome Paul, if you need help with something just say, I’ll do what I can

[@chuckmaddison2924]

Just starting out with Tomix was a toss-up with Kato. Considering putting track on felt. Track coming is 2.4 meter x 560 mm.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Sounds fantastic. I love when people discover the hobby. You mentioned felt, personally I wouldn’t as it’s fibrous and there is a possibility (however small that the fibres get into the locomotive workings.) Something like felt or foam rubber. I am actually switching to no underlay. It is a personal choice though. Please say if you need any help.

[@chuckmaddison2924]

@@piccadillymodelrailways Much appreciated, felt no longer.

[@davidcox6459]

Thanks I’m just starting out you were realy easy to learn with

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks David, if there is anything you are not sure about, just say and Ill do my best to help.

[@rossgoodchild1852]

Great video and help for someone who is starting out there own railway layout brilliant thank you once again

[@thegrowler-blackwoodngauge]

Good explanation John - will have been helpful to those just starting out in our hobby. Cheers Euan

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Euan, I hope so lol

[@film49uk]

Great clip well explained and i have learn`t some think from it thank you John

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Paul, brilliant Ive had comments and messages about track from an increasing number of people

[@wellardme]

You are by far the best instructor for this out there! You explain in such simple terms for newbies like me. I feel confident i know what to do after this video. Subscribed. Do you have videos on lists of suppliers you use etc?

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Ahhhhh thank you that’s so kind. I am a school teacher, so I guess that has to come out in my videos. Regarding suppliers, it kind depends on what you wanna buy. I do use Hattons, TMC, Cheltenham Models, but also my local model shops. If you let me know what youre after I MAY be able to help. If its train or track related please state the scale as I model in N and OO. Hoping thats helpful.

[@wellardme]

@Piccadilly Model Railways by John Warner that's cool because I'm a teacher too 😀 I'm into N scale and I'm in the process of designing a 3m by 1m layout. I've been trying to look for design software but to no avail. I never realised i could print off track from the Peco website as you showed. Genius idea.

[@wellardme]

@Piccadilly Model Railways by John Warner oh and the biggest challenge is I'm going digital. I need to redo my GCSE in physics me thinks))) No idea what I'm doing)

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

All sounds fantastic! The digital bit can be as complex as you want it to be. Personally Id start by watching videos about DCC to get the idea of what the differences are and what it can do, you wont go back to 12v DC once the bug has bit. Then think about buying a DCC controller talk to Hattons theyll give you some options. From which I suggest watching videos on each then decide. Your trains/locos will need a DCC decoder foe every train or loco. Some trains take a few decoders. If you want sound those decoders do cost quite a bit more £100+ per decoder. With all this in mind, ddue avoid older models that are not DCC ready, as to fit DCC can be a nightmare due to the lack of space inside. You can buy DCC fitted which is the same model but with a decoder already fitted, so they just need programming and away you go. Hoping thats helpful, but just say if you are not sure about something. It can be quite unnerving in the ‘early’ days, but there are loads of us prepared to help you. Enjoy!

[@ashleyhamman]

You mentioned the overhang of trains on curves. Since I've not bought any passenger rolling stock yet, and am developing the trackplan with CAD, what would be the best way to figure out overhang? Should I just measure the scale length of the longest expected carriage from end to end on the curve, and for width use the prototype loading gauge specs?

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi, thank you for getting in touch. There are lots of variables here and it depends on which curves you have opted for. As I suggest in the video radius 3 / 4 is much better or long gentle sweeping curves you create yourself with flexitrack. It also depends on whether you plan the run ‘older’ steam trains with coaches or modern trains like class 800. The more modern or recent your trains are the longer the coaches get. Hence the overhang on a modern train is greater than it would be on a say a 57foot stanier coach. I recommend get one of those little red plastic way gauges that will help you space your track. Most model shops should have them. If not try TMC, Rails of Sheffield, Cheltenham models or DCC Concepts, in the UK plus so many more. They should only cost pence. If all fails and you cannot get one, my track is around 15mm between sleepers of double track and I don’t get trains clipping each other. (For N gauge). It’s fine creating a track plan on computer software but oddly it doesn’t always work out exactly as you’ve planned when you come to lay real track. Yes create the basic idea you are after, but then I suggest buy some track including a few lengths of flexi track (not forgetting your first train) and put it together, using the wide setting on the way gauge. ( just place it in between the rails). If you do choose flexitrack your local model shop will help you know how to cut the track to the correct length and which rail joiners you need. You cannot beat having a ‘play’ with real track and models, the computer will never show whether a train will catch another or clip the scenery. Hoping that’s helpful.

[@lord-al-2024]

Nicely done Demo video John......Top man..

[@moorlandmodelrailwayandy]

Great explanation John. I've forwarded it to a young lad that I'm helping to build his railway by zoom at the moment which is quite hard. I've tried to point him towards set track curves but he's obsessed with wanting flexi. Hopefully this will help him especially as you said in the video it's best to use set track until you're more confident of laying track. Thanks John cheers Andy

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thanks Always pleased to help. I take the lad’s parents are in full agreement? If so I’m happy. Forgive me for being picky but to be in trouble over safeguarding is simply not good.

[@moorlandmodelrailwayandy]

@@piccadillymodelrailways yes it's ok John hes a boy that i used to teach and his mum is my physio she also watches the videos first. He's trying to run before he can walk if you get my drift and his mum is trying to help him but doesn't understand everything. So any explanations on video sort of back up what I'm telling him. I actually send all the videos to his mum as he's not allowed a phone and she sets up the zoom calls so everything is fine. Wouldn't put you at risk cheers Andy

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Phew!!!! Ive been falsely accused a few times when a kid decides to say he..... It gets a bit much when you’ve devoted your life to kids, teaching them, helping supporting etc etc. So I become super conscious of anything ‘safeguarding’

[@moorlandmodelrailwayandy]

@@piccadillymodelrailways I understand John no worries 👍

[@petermoss6342]

Your videos are really helpful, thanks. I am a bit confused on turnouts. Peco only list the ST5 & 6 or the curved turnouts ST 44 & 45. Apart from crossings, turnout-wise that appears to be it. Do you think it could be that the medium and long (straight) turnouts that you recommend are discontinued? Many thanks.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi Peter, thank you for your kind words. Long and medium points are definitely available. Those you mentioned are ‘set track’ long and mediums are under streamlined track, as is flexitrack. Personally I am trying to stick to long radius points with the odd medium. I avoid ST5s / ST6s as the curves are VERY tight and some locos just wont cope and jump off the track. I have learnt that trains cope so much better on the long radius. It is a matter of space though. Hoping that helps

[@petermoss6342]

@@piccadillymodelrailways Thanks for that John, it does help as I was only looking at Setrack. It's all a bit confusing when you are starting out!

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Yes, of course, we’ve all been there. Happy to help

[@medwaypeninsulaMR]

Very informative and useful video john and I agree with FaceBook groups I have found them invaluable ...Cheers Kev

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Ahhh very kind Kev, so glad they are useful to you got one on lighting and basic CV settings, but others. These won’t be for couple of weeks. Depends what happens in school

[@medwaypeninsulaMR]

There are not too many videos on basics which is essential for newbies to the hobby. This will provide an excellent service.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Medway Peninsula Model Railway I agree, any topics? I can just do them when I come across them, but dont want to do them every week 1-2 month really or it could annoy regulars

[@neilstephen6761]

Thank you for an informative video

[@Miertreg1]

Nice train , super n gauge. LG Gert

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Thank you

[@stephenriley9084]

Thank you. Regards Stephen.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

You are welcome Stephen. Was that helpful?

[@stephenriley9084]

John, Very much so. Thanks once again. Regards Stephen.

[@chris58646458]

Another brilliant video John thanks for that information I’m just laying my track now.... :0) .... Chris

[@domytar5395]

Hello what type of model is the purple train please thanks

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi, this is quite an old video now. If the train you refer to is the small two car unit… that is a class 142 pacer in NORTHERN livery. You may do well to find one, this was the most popularly livery.

[@GWRailFan]

a lot o locos have a minimum radios that they can/should work on, ive noticed loads say they cant cope with anything below 2nd radios, or at least that was i think they recommend for flawless driving, i noticed you had red finger tips, looks like you had finished finger painting haha

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Yes we’ll your never know I might have just done a finger painting and gonna sell it for thousands. Or not hmmmm that’ll keep you guessing, lol Yes every loco has a min radius. Many will cope with 1st radius of the track wouldn’t be made. But big A1s A3s and few diesels wouldn’t cope. My farish 47 takes every opportunity to take off in its endless pursuit of flight

[@GWRailFan]

@@piccadillymodelrailways the 47 had a dream to be a plane haha, hang it from the roof,

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Lol, well it’s tempting. I’ve had about 7 over the years, giving it another go and they all have same stiff bogie sets which don’t allow movement over points and alike.

[@KieCrafts]

Hi mate, I was wondering if you could help me, im currently designing a small N G layout. Size is key here as it has to be small. Ive come up with some designs but Im concenred that the design involves ST5/6 points. I know you said avoid using them if possible but I cant really comprimise not using them (space saving). In your experience, how problematic would you say they are? Id love to run a 37/47/66/156 etc. on the layout, thats the goal. I watched another vid and some fella was using ST5s and the loco (an american diesel) ran really well over them. Any advice and guidance would be so welcome. P.S awesome series of vids, i'm taking plenty of notes! :)

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi, thank you for your question. The problem with those small radius points is creating very sharp ‘s’ type curves, if you add a very short straight on the ‘turnout’ part of the point you will help the locos. Bobo locos and trains should be ok, ie trains with 4 wheels per bogie. Probably the 37s too, as they are quite sure footed. I found 47s and farish 66s struggle and required larger curves, as they are Co-co loco, ie 6 wheels per bogie and therefore longer than the standard bogie. I suggest build the layout as you want it and just try it. It would be handy if you could borrow locos, ‘try before you buy’ so to speak. I do understand how space can be an issue and we have to work with what we have. Happy to help, just say if you think of anything else.

[@KieCrafts]

@Piccadilly Model Railways many thanks for the kind and very informative reply! Not sure I'll take the risk with the ST points. Class 66 is the main loco I really want to get so I won't risk it. Back to the design software! Sorry, just one more question if I may, the minimum distance between between 2 SL points, would I have to put in a st202?

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi, TBH Im not sure which points these are, but I would (when you are ready) test the track with your longest vehicles passing each other. Thats either coaches, container wagons etc etc, if vehicles clip each other you would need a small piece of track between crossover points. I design my track by physically laying it following a loose design in my head. There are many ways to plan the track design

[@Oorail]

Great video John. I've a quick question, whats the best way to remove track pins from N gauge track? Would it be similar to OO, use a flat knife or small screwdriver edge to pry the pin upwards enough to grab a hold of it with a pliers and pull? Or is it pointless, and just pull up on the sleeper with pliers and fix the sleepers later if they break? I've inherited a small N gauge layout, along with a much larger OO layout. The N gauge was just started, so need to talk someone through removing the track before they can send it to me. Thanks!

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi Thanks for the question. Personally I don’t use track pins, rather glue. However, the chairs and sleepers are incredibly fragile so extra care is required. As you suggest I would use a strong knife like an old dinner knife and ease the pin up gently using all available angles until there is enough of the pin to get the pliers in. Hopefully you can rescue much but some track will inevitably be damaged, especially any points/turnouts. I wish you well, just say if I can help further.

[@stevef105]

Hi , can I use 3rd and 4rd radius on a board 2feet wide ?.

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Hi Steve, Happy NY. Thank you for question. A board 2’ wide equates to around 600mm. However 3rd and 4th radius are require a board of 750mm and even then the track is tight. (2’6”). If you can spare a slightly wider board you could use these curves. Alternatively could you consider an end to end layout, then you could keep s curves fairly shallow. Hope that helps

[@stevef105]

@@piccadillymodelrailways thanks john that was just the info i needed ,happy new year keep the videos coming.