N43 Bottom End Rebuild after spun conrod bearings damage - DIY PART #1

Part 1: N43 Crank No Start, VANOS codes, Low oil pressure Diagnosis [ • N43 Crank No Start, V... ]
Part 2: N43 Valve Cover, VANOS Units & Camshafts Removal [ • N43 Valve Cover, VANOS... ]
Part 3: N43 VANOS Inspection & Cleanup [ • N43 VANOS Inspection &... ]
Part 4: N43 Intake Manifold Removal [ • Video ]
Part 5: N43 Transmission, Clutch, Flywheel Removal [ • N43 Transmission, Clut... ]
Part 6: N43 Engine Removal [ • N43 Engine Removal | P... ]
Part 7: N43 Teardown: Low oil pressure & Spun bearings [ • N43 Teardown: Low oil ... ]
Part 8: N43 DIY Bottom End Rebuild PART 1 [ • N43 Bottom End Rebuild... ]
Part 9: N43 DIY Cylinder Head Rebuild PART 2 [ • N43 Cylinder Head Rebu... ]
Part 10: N43 Engine Rebuild - Asembly and Timing [Coming soon...]
Part 11: N43 Engine & Radiator Installation [ • N43 Engine & Radiator ... ]
Part 12: N43 Intake Manifold Gaskets Replacement & Installation [ • N43 Intake Manifold In... ]
Part 13: N43 Clutch Replacement, Flywheel & Transmission Installation [Coming soon...]
Part 14: N43 Will It run after Rebuild? [Coming soon...]
BMW Lifters Cleaning, Bleeding, Checking & How they work [ • BMW Lifters Cleaning, ... ]
Piston loader STL: bimmerzen.com/files/stl/Bimme...
Buy Valve Spring Compressor Tool Kit for BMW N42/N46/N40/N45/N43: bimmerzen.com/store
How to use the VSCT tool: • Using 3D printed tool ...
Fix oil consumption on BMW N42/N46: • BMW N42/N46 Valve Stem...
I diagnose a BMW 116i N43 engine crank, no start, knocking sound, with VANOS and low oil pressure MSD80 INPA codes. Copper bearing material in oil filter, clogged VANOS solenoids. Car has 216.000 km.
10905 0x2A99 Kurbelwelle - Auslassnockenwelle, Referenz
(4173) Wert außerhalb Referenzbereich
10887 0x2A87 Auslass-VANOS, Mechanik
(4168) schwergängig, klemmt mechanisch
12481 0x30C1 Motoröldruckregelung, statisch
(4763) Druck zu niedrig
12190 0x2F9E Thermischer Ölniveausensor
(4169) Signal fehlt
10906 0x2A9A Kurbelwelle - Einlassnockenwelle, Synchronisation
(4174) Signal ungültig für Synchronisation
11562 0x2D2A Differenzdrucksensor, Saugrohr: Adaption
(5224) Druck unplausibel
0:00 Intro
2:29 Deciding to rebuild en engine with spun bearings
4:05 Bottom block rebuild, cylinder head rebuild and aseembling the engine
4:20 Sourcing parts and compatible engines
6:03 Barn find donor engine bent valves
7:51 Replacement crankshaft and conrods
8:48 I wont be honing the cylinder walls and reuse the pistons with the piston rings
9:36 Cleaning the carbon deposits from pistons
11:56 Replace conrods, remove circlip and gudeon pin
13:57 Removing piston rings by hand without special tools
15:42 Cleaning piston ring groove with a zip tie
16:17 Measuring piston ring gap - end clearance
19:15 Measuring piston rings side clearance
19:53 Installing piston rings by hand
21:48 Installing conrod and gudeon pin clip, conrods marking orientation
25:50 Removing tensioner and sensors from the engine block
26:15 Removing one-way check valves between cylinder head and engine block
28:10 Cleaning engine block deck surface
29:33 Blocking off oil channels qith earplugs
30:29 Cleaning the block
31:13 Cleaning main bolt threads
31:57 Cleaning oil spray nozzles and check valves in the bolts
34:03 Cleaning oil chanels
35:16 Installing oil spray nozzles
35:31 Cleaning lower crankcase - cradle -bedplate
37:01 Crankshaft identification and color coding bearings
40:06 Installing main upper bearing shells
40:58 Measuring crankshaft clearances
44:28 Install crankshaft
46:05 Applying flange sealant Loctite 5970
46:51 Installing lower crankcase - cradle
48:51 Installing conrod bearing shells
49:45 Preparing cylinders for piston installation
50:09 3D printed piston ring compressor
50:57 Loading the pistons and conrods
51:23 Clocking piston rings gaps
54:20 Torquing conrod bolts
56:35 Oil pump assembly
57:59 Instal balancing shafts and oil pump
1:00:22 Assembling oil pump chain drive
1:02:03 Installing opil pump chain drive
1:04:11 Next videos - cylinder head rebuild and timing
N43B16, N43B20, N43B20A, N43B20AA
2007-2011 E81/E87 116i
2007-2011 E90/E91/E92/E93 318i
2008-2011 E81/E87/E88 118i
2007-2011 E81/E82/E87/E88 120i
2007-2011 E90/E91/E92/E93 320i
2007-2009 E60/E61 520i
DISCLAIMER:
BimmerZen assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BimmerZen recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BimmerZen , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BimmerZen.

[@michaelwalton3631]

Fascinating, I'm loving the level of detail. Also your practical non-perfectionist approach makes so much sense for people like me doing this on a budget and on cars that are not collectors items! Thank you.

[@laurentiu.panait2536]

This N43 content is a godsend, I also replaced my bearings after a spun conrod bearing, did not visit the machine shop, did not replace the overheated conrod or crank, still runs like a champ

[@laurentiu.panait2536]

Also the N43B16 lacks the encumbering balancing shafts because the bore is smaller and therefore the pistons are lighter so it does not need one, it just has the same oil pump alone, looking to swap it on my 143hp version to delete it and gain some free spin

[@MrBojangles901]

What did the crankshaft and conrods look like. Were they as bad as the one in the video?

[@laurentiu.panait2536]

​@@MrBojangles901 When I took the rod bearing caps out, the crank journal on no. 4 was a bit worn and it was barely catching on your finger nail, also the bearing was shot, it was copper all the way and broken on its outer edges, also the crank on no4 and no3 is overheated, black to say the least and the conrod too, it overheated when it spun that bearing on no 4. But we put the thing back together, and now runs fine no knock and I redlined it when I didn't know it had rod knock and after I replaced the bearings by myself. Strong engine that is the N43. I got it with that defect in mind at 163k km and now it turned 180k on the clock.

[@MrBojangles901]

@@laurentiu.panait2536 Nice makes me optimistic about fixing mine. I think the damage could be about the same. Just working on a method to remove the welded on rod bearings right now. Tried smacking it with a chisel but no luck so far!

[@MrBojangles901]

Awesome video! Just bought a 118i with the N43B20A engine and this video is perfect... Engine stalled while previous owner was passing a Mercedes, haha. In fact I realized that I already watched this video before just out of interest but deffo watching again now and paying close attention!

[@MrBojangles901]

Just finished bottom end rebuild and the car is running great! Only problem is that I get low oil pressure warning at idle when the engine is fully hot (coolant 108 C). The previous owner had the same problem and replaced the hydraulic oil pressure relief valve. I checked it and it's clean and actuates fine. Here are things that could have gone wrong during the rebuild for me, * Opened the oil pump by prying it apart with my hands and it totally exploded. The veins and the spinning shaft fell down on the concrete floor of my garage. Only damage I saw was a small nick on the spinning shaft and I polished it out. It later spun freely. Obviously the veins could not be put back in the same order. I wonder if this could create a problem? I spun the oil pump manually with a impact wrench and it sucked good on my hand. But the balancing shift did not spin as freely as in your video. I figured that some dirt got one them while assembling but maybe this part is bad. * I polished the crankshaft and it came out really nice but has some gouges on it. The clearances on the most polished journal was tight (around 0.03... something mm). From reading online I have come to believe that the gouges should not present an issue. * I was pretty meticulous but also eager to finish the job. I'm wondering if it's possible that I didn't torque down the bolts for the oil pump to the crank case. I feel like if I didn't tighten them down all the way I would have huge problems so it seems unlikely... Right now I'm just trying to investigate if it could be anything simple before redoing the job.

[@mohammadbenattia9102]

Great work, great simplified detailed information, I assume such video must have taken quite some time and effort to provide in a such way, thank you so much

[@BimmerZen]

thanks!

[@mifo1133]

thank you so much for N43 content. im owner of this engine 143HP version and i learn a lot from you, cant wait for new videos!

[@carlhydes2058]

Great work and exceptional details. Only one thing you should have at least changed the oil scraper rings. But great work 👍

[@FeeeshEP3]

Very informative. Thank you!

[@bazhenovdenis]

Great work!!!

[@v6cosworth167]

should the big ends on con rods have side to side play on the crank, got the bearings from BMW Violet for the top and Red for the bottom

[@belos65]

Hello! Thanks! for a very good Video. I have a Bmw 318i Petrol With Automatic gearbox. When I back the car out of the garage, the automatic transmission wants to drive the car very much, backwards. I feel like it's way too high Idling then. I have to press the brake pedal when reversing so they don't reverse too fast. Do you know anything about what could be wrong with this. They are Year Model 2006 on the Car. Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden

[@hansc5190]

It is normal that a cold engine needs about 2 minutes to reduce to normal idle revs. So yes it idles higher than normal. Some solutions: 1. Start car and wait two minutes. 2. Park car backwards into the garage. (In general it should be forbidden to drive backwards out of a parking spot.)

[@v6cosworth167]

Is ok to jet wash the block using degreaser, I all so damaged the block very slightly, do you think I can get away with it? Excellent video 😊😊your my Haynes Manual

[@BimmerZen]

It should be ok, but just make sure you block out the oil channels and/or make sure later that they are cleanend. What kind of damage is there? Cylinder bore damage?

[@v6cosworth167]

@@BimmerZen Hi thanks for getting back, slight damage on the deck, the locating plugs slightly made a indent, you can just about feel it, what do you think?

[@bigdeal87]

The oilpump balance lobes needs to face downward !

[@BimmerZen]

You are correct, I do that in my N43 assembly and timing video.

[@bigdeal87]

Great work! No need to plastigauge the conrod bearings?

[@piomad6022]

Yes need check the conrod to

[@BimmerZen]

Valid point. It would be best to plastigauge it. However the replacement crankshaft and conrods came from she same donor engine and when I took everything out, the conrods bearings were in very good condition. I did gamble a little bit there because there is a scenario where the new replacement bearings could be defective or just wrong dimensions and plastigauge would reveal that... Looking back now, I would definitively do that:)

[@piomad6022]

You would also need to check the locks on the piston rings and the clearance

[@MrBojangles901]

Know the specs on the conrod clearances boss?

[@bigdeal87]

@@MrBojangles901you can find the specs in the bmw tis

[@hugocunha30]

@BimmerZen do u know how to clean those integrated pcv's?

[@BimmerZen]

Not realy...maybe I'll take a look:)

[@hugocunha30]

@@BimmerZen it doesnt make sence to buy a new valve cover just cause the pcv is blocked

[@nemanjastanojlovic01]

@@hugocunha30 since all they want is money... makes too much sense 🤣

[@deniskiecka5408]

Hey, will the ring compressing tool be available in the store? Or is it somewhere to download? I used an generic ebay one and it scratches the surface of the block :/

[@BimmerZen]

It looks like I've accidentaly removed the link to the STL in the description. I will add it back:)

[@BimmerZen]

It's back:)

[@deniskiecka5408]

@@BimmerZen great thanks a lot

[@ninety1464]

can anyone point out exactly where do the balance shafts get their oil supply? I have an N43 with oil pressure issues.. i just pulled the sump to discover someone has removed the balance shafts. I havent checked properly yet but i need to make sure the oil supply to them has been blanked!

[@BimmerZen]

Is your engine n43b16? 1.6 L? They donxt have balancing shafts, fyi.

[@v6cosworth167]

I'm stuck, hows the thickness of each bearing worked out, I've been to BMW dealer and they don't know, help

[@BimmerZen]

I've used the standard Mahle bearings and so far I have no issues

[@v6cosworth167]

@@BimmerZen thanks for quick reply, looks like I'll have to use the one's you have, realy appriciate it, looking forward for the next vid 👍👍👍👍

[@andreyns89]

So, I can just change some part for my N43B20 143hp engine, and get for free +30hp? 🤔

[@BimmerZen]

Yes, "some" parts:D Intake cam and complete exhaust system from 170hp version, variable intake manifold and reprogramming.

[@hugocunha30]

@@BimmerZen disa wont give u gains at top end, intake cam and remap should be enougth