NAD 2200PE Restoration / Repair

[@abelabner]

"safety squint engaged" excellent quote and video!

[@robburbrink8277]

excellent video gamerpaddy! you should consider doing more repair videos like this. its not easy to find good videos like this one on KZbin, some of the guys go on and on about nothing important. and others can be difficult to understand, yours are very easy to follow. all the info you presented here has been useful in one way or another. incredibly informative . thank you so much for taking the time to release this. I learned a ton!

[@christianluitz3420]

Awesome restoration, got them and are absolutely in love with them

[@mlp2147]

@gamerpaddy Fantastic video! I am getting ready to do the same thing to my NAD 2600PE. Feeling a bit more confident after watching this video. This will be my first recap project. Have you done a 2600 PE before? Mine looks very similar to the one you did in this video. Thanks again!

[@Rgiles07]

Your advice on hard-wiring my 2200PE for 120vac was heeded and appreciated. All is well and that cheesy voltage selector switch is now enroot to the trash dump. Thanks for your help. Two of my 2200PE amps need power supply re-caps, but I can't locate them anywhere. Do you have any suggestion for substitution of the (4) 10,000 uF caps that will actually fit the board?

[@gamerpaddy]

no they are unobtanium

[@ctrlzyx2]

I found a moment to pause and confirmed this 2200pe says made in japan. Obviously this particular unit has been abused. I have 3 nad's from this era all working great. All made in Japan units with the Shoei caps. I replace caps only if they test out of spec. These 40 yr old caps typically test within spec unless they are smaller value subject to higher voltage. Those tend to have 10-20 ohm esr and I replace them. Some of these shoeis that never see current (like on the input board) test as good as new, so i put them back. This is a hobby for me so i buy caps as needed.

[@nicksundby]

Superb video, very interesting process and I learned so much. Many thanks.

[@Rgiles07]

I have several NAD 2200 amps with the same voltage selector switch problem. Forty years has taken a toll on the plastic bodies of these things and they are just crumbling to pieces. I want to remove the old broken selector switches and hard wire my transformers for North American120 volts the same way you did for 240 volts. Could you confirm which of the leads should be shorted in order to achieve a constant 120 volts? Your advice may prevent me from making the wrong choice, Rg

[@gamerpaddy]

for 120v its yellow to brown (3/6) and orange to blue (1/4)

[@lampmanpaul7459]

Brilliant video, thanks man. Please do more amp repair videos 👍

[@michaelrosenberg2420]

Ahhh Tin Pan Alley!!!

[@sidneyalves1556]

👏👏👏

[@montynorth3009]

Compliments from me also.

[@lnglng6961]

❤❤🎉

[@jmqwert]

Really logic and good approach to the repair. Have you encountered this amplifier before? Based in europe? Which hardware vendors are you using? Tme? Mouser or digikey? Regards desoldering gun, which mod did you make.

[@gamerpaddy]

repaired 6 of them so far, really nice amp to work on. owned 4 of them as quadrophonic monoblocks few years ago. nad knows how to properly design a enclosure. yea, im located in germany. im ordering at the vendors that have what i need in stock and at the lowest price for the quantity i need. reichelt, kessler, tme, digikey, mouser, lcsc.. sometimes one has everything, sometimes i gotta order at two or more. last resort, aliexpress. 90% fakes but 5% rare unobtanium parts.

[@duroxkilo]

in general a good quality thermal silicon pad does not require additional thermal paste. after a few heat cycles the silicone forms and fills in all the microscopic gaps... (same is true for good quality thermal paste. a lesser quality thermal compound, as it expands and contracts during the heat cycles, will eventually migrate/pump out...) proper mica pads can be v thin while still providing adequate electrical isolation. combined w/ proper thermal pastes they may offer a better thermal coupling but the thermal paste has a shorter life than the silicone pads. there isn't one universal best solution but different products engineered for different applications. not to be disrespectful but the amount of paste used for the transistors was excessive. it is very unlikely that it would impact the performance of the amplifier in any negative way but in principle it does nothing to improve it. as a curiosity, for critical components such as performance CPUs and GPUs that can reach max temp in just a few seconds, it is understood and accepted that the best performance is obtained by using extremely flat heatsinks (to the point of polished) w/ a minimal amount of thermal paste, offering the greatest "metal to metal" surface area contact.

[@plastbestikk]

NAD needs easy access. They actually should have a latch instead of screws. They break too often! Great design by Mr. Edvardsen, but procurement chose Chinese shit components.

[@gamerpaddy]

just like anyone else. cant imagine its worth saving a buck or two to go from panasonic/nichicon caps to chingchong, jingfun or whatever they are called. the whole recapping in this amp did cost me around 12 bucks in parts. i doubt it would be much cheaper with a bag of shitbrands but it surely lasts longer main issue with all those amps from the 80s 90s even at accuphase which uses quality parts is the solder being used. it just cracks especially in parts that are thermal cycled a lot. main reason stuff fails. a single solder joint at the right location cracks then a transistor blows the whole thing goes up in smoke. bad capacitors are usually not the reason for a failure, they may change the sound or start humming but dont cause catastrophic failure.

[@oddingardleirvik4781]

I thougt that like this; don't use steele nuts on the output connections. You really are a good teathcer for all of us nerds and proes😊

[@misterbonzoid5623]

The harmonised nominal AC mains voltage across Europe is 230V AC; not 240V. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity To turn the mains selector use a wider-bladed screwdriver which fills the slot and gives you enough torque.

[@gamerpaddy]

it has been set to 220 someday and glued down, they tend to crack and fall apart anyways so just get rid of it and set it to 240 in case you are on the upper side of the tolerance