Nano Biscotte 3 and Flash on Clash

This video shows how to use the onboard Power Extender of the Nano Biscotte v3 in order to drive a separate Flash on Clash LED.
Nano Biscotte 3 manual:
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Parts List:
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[@anthonycoffey4699]

About to wire up my sabers and these videos are amazingly helpful. I wish my workspace was as clean & stocked up as yours lol

[@JasonBrinkerhoff]

this is one of the first of your videos I watched a few months ago when I started preparing myself for my build. I haven't gotten this far yet but after watching your videos I've picked up a lot of tips that have greatly improved my soldering. I've accomplished things in the past month I previously would have considered impossible for me to do.

[@MadcowGenesis]

That's great! Thanks for the feedback.

[@LylezLazerSwordz]

Thanks for addressing the 1 v 2 resistor dilemma. Putting one of these in a Graflex 2.0 from TCSS.

[@lyconxero457]

Thanks for this video! This is another great one for me to add to my saber creation playlist.

[@heknah]

Thanks for the videos!!! You have no idea how helpful these videos are!! I am not going to lie, I am one of those people who is having a difficult time understanding OHM's Law! But I will get there lol. Again thank you for the videos, and I cant wait to see what you come up with next time!

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Hector Torres Ohm's law will be the next video.

[@heknah]

sweet! Can't wait to check out the video

[@ELROCKETEER]

Wow! Thanks... Great stuff... This is going to help me a lot...

[@justmutantjed]

Good stuff as always, Rob! I've wondered, though -- and since I'm new to the party -- I've never caught whether you use flux at all, or if the solder you use has any kind of flux core. Could you give me a heads-up on what kind of solder you use, please?

[@Goblin1967]

Rob, thanks for your videos. All are very clear and helpful. I'm trying to do the same in my Graflex Roman Saber Gen 2 with a Nano Biscotte v.4. I would like to include a Crystal chamber with accent led and add flash on clash effect in the crystal and in the blade. Got you a diagram for connections or a video tutorial? A bit of help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[@heknah]

sorry again for the nobe questions. I was told recently that you do not need a resister for your Green, Blue, and White LED's. Only Amber, Red, and Orange. If you add a resister to the G, B, W LED's, it will not come off as bright as you wanted it to be. I was hoping you can elaborate on that notion of not needing resisters for those specific LED's

[@MadcowGenesis]

Without a resistor - and a full 3.7 v battery it will be overdriving the LED. A little brighter, and shorter life for the LED - your call. Also - if using a sound board it can cause fluctuations that negatively affect the sound boards performance.

[@HungLikeScrat]

I know this is an older video, but I hope you still answer questions on it. I have a tri-cree RGrB. I'm doing a purple blade with greenish clash. The only resistors I have on-hand are 1/2 watt resistors. I wanna use a 3.6 ohm on the red and a 0.5 ohm on the royal blue to get the purple I want, but like I said, all I have is 1/2 watt resistors. Will the 1/2 watt resistors be good enough? I do have a 0.5 ohm 5 watt to join all the positive wires.

[@germanemiliomenesesrojasme1166]

Hello Rob, is it the same with the NB 4?

[@MegaSweeney123]

Awesome vid, as always. Were you able to change up how you cycle between fonts with this card? Say, pressing the main button makes one noise (failing to turn on, for example), holding the main button makes another (usual sort of saber font, except sputtering and unstable), and pressing the main button while a secondary button is being held for the third (regular saber noises)?

[@NL_FlyingDutchmen]

would you have to do things different with an illuminated switch, because those have four legs and this one you used had two legs

[@wickedguitarist1]

Question regarding resistors... I'm doing deep red/deep red/white... Can I use the 1) 1.5ohm resistor for the 2 red dice, or 2? I ask because they are deep red and I want to max the brightness. Just wanna clarify. Before I power saber up

[@harlansmith7911]

I have wired everything up this way, Rblue Rblue and white for foc, when saber is activated I only get the white led coming on as the main blade, pretty cool but not what I want, is there something in the config file or something that needs to be changed?

[@patrikgrunvald1601]

When you deciding how strong resistor you gonna use, you have to add up the voltage of the leds or ypu have to take them separately?

[@daimyo2k]

Hi, I am new to all of this. Can this be done with a single Cree LED or does it have to be the triple LED??

[@chrisrobinson6994]

Hi Rob, great stuff always! What color blade and flash do you get from using a Tri-Rebel RGB with the same build you demonstrate here? Thanks

[@collinfoster7771]

chris robinson an RGB led has a Red, Blue, and Green dye so you can customize the colors on the SD cards settings. You can have any color with any flash on clash with an RGB LED.

[@Exerdatacom]

Hi Rob, thanks for your tutorials ! If I you wire both blue Leds from your RGB with a 3,7V battery and put them parallel, you'll only drive 1,8V per LED, which will decrease the luminosity, right ? Or can we state that 2 LEDs with 1,8V voltage will illuminate the same as a single Led @3,7V ? Thanks for your help !

[@Exerdatacom]

worth than that actually, relying to the datasheet, the leds won't even blow up @1,8V, could you please explain ??? Am I going the wrong way, thinking that the voltage will be splitted equally through the 2 blue Leds ?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Hey, A couple of errors. 1. RGB only has one blue LED. BBW is two blue and one white. 2. When you wire two LEDs in parallel the voltage required stays the same, while they consume double the amps (milliamps).

[@Exerdatacom]

thanks so much Rob, shame on me (especially for point 2) !

[@ronronero1972]

hello rob, very nice tutorial video for the biginers i enjoined very much seen today. I have a question... should be posible to do a tutorial with the crystal focus v8 and using JST conectors and buck puck instat resistors? i am trying to sell a saber empty, for instance from SF and do this for first time with a nice soundboard and using quick conectors instat soldering all the times if is posible. thanks a lot for your time, best regards

[@MadcowGenesis]

In my opinion. I would not install a CF without soldering. Besides - you do not need resistors with a CF, unless it's on accent LEDs.

[@ronronero1972]

thank you soo much, then for CF soundboard is not necesary resistors or puckbucks. i want buy SF aprentice mode sabers and install leds, recharge port and sound by myself when i can... is far cheaper tan buy with sound. just 2 questions... with CF is necesary 2 Li Ion batery x 18500 isn it? you know wich soundboard is coming on SF? thanks a lot, tavi

[@b1akn3ss93]

There are no nano biscuits in the online store?

[@bobbyp125]

hey rob very nice video iam building my own light saber

[@screamindemon06]

So I have read the NB V3 users manual from the Plecter website and have searched the interwebs for how the FoC function works on this board; when the FoC is activated, does the FoC color come on with the main LEDs simultaneously, or do the mains LEDs shut down when the FoC LED is lit? Thanks for any info.

[@MadcowGenesis]

With the NB board FoC activates and the main LED stays on. With the more expensive Plecter boards you can program the finier details of how the FoC works.

[@screamindemon06]

Awesome! I very much appreciate the response! This info will dictate which LEDs I choose to get the main/FoC colors I'd like. BTW, your vids are extremely well done and have been an invaluable resource for a first time saber builder like myself. I have been archiving them in my favorites and have already garnered several project ideas! Thanks again!!!

[@ataruDev]

when is your shop going to restock?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+chompy101 Stock is being added each week. Thanks for your patience. Details on the facebook page

[@LTDLimiTeD1995]

on an RGB is twisting the positives together and soldering it to a single wire ok then? With resistors on the negative side? (towards the pads)

[@MadcowGenesis]

Certainly

[@bobbypuopolo7225]

nice video rob i bought a new light saber

[@riemen0141]

Does it work too with 2.2ohm resistor and 1.5ohm resistor ?

[@Loki.uk70]

great info as usual just wondered can u use a latch switch with these boards?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks. Latching switch is only an option with the higher end Plecter boards. Nano Biscotte only works with a momentary switch

[@Loki.uk70]

Ok thanks!

[@llic0307]

wayne laughland I thought the switch that he used was a latching switch?

[@ramtac33033]

Rob, what gauge of solder is preferred? It's not sold on TCSS is it?

[@thepotatowizward9411]

what if I have a Green Green White LED and I mix one of the greens with one of the whites? would I get a lighter green?

[@4rkane]

I've been trying to do a similar build to this using an old luxeon style RGB LED & a Nano V2 but I keep getting a trickle of power to the red in standby & little or no power to the blue when active. The flash works fine & with the soundboard removed from the equation I'm getting the desired purple blade colour but with the soundboard it's coming up pinkish red. Could it be because I'm not using a resistor on the blue + line?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+London-Sabers Sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere.

[@Sheild_against_the_wicked556]

Hi Rob. I'm planning a FoC build using a red, red, amber LED, with a Crystal Focus V8, and 6 wire Buckpuck. Is it absolutely necessary to have the 2512 smd resistor for the FoC - pad, or can I run them through the Buckpuck, or forgo the resistor all together as demonstrated here? Thanks.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Hey, You do not need a buckpuck. All the info in the CF manual. You can use regular 3-5w resistors if you don't have SMD ones.

[@Sheild_against_the_wicked556]

Rob Petkau Thanks Rob. I appreciate the answer. I will be ready to build once the parts arrive. Thank you for the videos. Take care!

[@Ocelotzin30]

HI THIS VIDEO WAS AMAZING, JUST I HAVE 1 QUESTION WHAT COMBINATION ITS FOR GET THE COLOR OF MACE WINDU 'PURPLE ' PLEASE LET ME KNOW

[@derrickspagnola8728]

Blue and red

[@derrickspagnola8728]

Or green and red

[@Blade-Rave]

hi there! as old as a video as this may be, I'm running into a problem when testing my LEDS. now every single LED on my tri cree (BWW) work just fine individuallym but when i combine a B/W combination and their respective ground wires combined, either the blue won't light up or both don't light up and it gets super hot. mind you I don't have resistors wired in and just using a AA battery pack with two drained Ni-Cad batteries that's undervolting to not blow the LEDS. aiming not to blow my board as I can't replace it, but thoughts on what might be causing the wires to get hot/the blue Die not lighting up. thus far I've tried A- FoC White Die's + and - : works B- Main White Die + and - : works C- White Dye + and - with Blue Die - : works D- Blue Die + and - : works E- Blue Die + and both Blue and White Dye - : Does not work; gets hot VERY quickly F- Blue and White Die + and - together : does not work, gets hot VERY quickly

[@TheCustomSaberShop]

We will do our best to help you out here! Please reach out to us via the contact us form on the site! www.thecustomsabershop.com/ContactUs

[@Blade-Rave]

@@TheCustomSaberShop sent an email your way, hoping to hear from you guys soon!

[@electrictom5292]

How is the forward voltage not too high for the battery?

[@LTDLimiTeD1995]

Stupid question, how does the board "know" which of those lines is the flash led when they are attached to the same power source? I'm guessing it has to do with the negative line being activated as well?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Correct. The distinction is made through the negative side.

[@null_verdict]

That part when he accidentally keeps calling the resistor an LED lol

[@Mastro716]

Hey Rob, so because the Tri Cree Amber LED has virtually the same forward voltage as Red I would use the 1.2 ohm 3w resistor for that as well, correct?

[@derrickspagnola8728]

I would assume so. I'm wondering the same thing. Go to ledsupply.com and they have info on the tri Cree LED's. I'm going to do green green Amber. And using 0.5 for each green and 1.2 for the amber.

[@ayoyonerd8424]

How does the nano biscotti room on its own?

[@nicolobugatto3248]

Hi super super noob question, is possible to assemble a nano biscotte V3 (or even another small soundboard) for a sort of only 'audio' stand alone system? I mean is possible to connect the soundboard to a small rechargeable battery a small speaker and a switch of course, and make a small element that produce lightsaber sound swings, on off ecc. alone? without any led connection or complete saber scheme? Thank you in advance for any advice.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Absolutely.

[@Mastroprimo]

Thank you for the super quick answer!

[@FaDeDStudios]

Hello Rob I'm planning to finally install my Graflex 2.0 but using the stock switches it comes with, do I need to add a momentary to latching converter to this and I'm planning to have two switches on my saber one on the red button and on the clamp will the saber still work if I connect two switches to the sound board?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I assume your kit has momentery switches. If so - no, you would not need a mom-latching converter. Two switches is not a problem

[@FaDeDStudios]

Okay good and would I connect the two switch wires together wiring it to the board

[@MadcowGenesis]

Correct.

[@brianharrisharris859]

I'm looking into using a trust fire and a dummy Cell with the tcss AA battery and speaker holder kit, is this ok with the nano biscotti v3?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Yes it will work. But you would not get much run time. It would be better to use the v6 holder and battery holder for an 18650 trustife.

[@liamnelson1226]

Hey Rob i have a weird question. I was watching the special features of episode 7 and noticed that the lightsaber props light up and had light effects. would it be possible to use a nano biscotte board and not attach a speaker to simply get the light effects like flash on clash and lock up? or would this cause a failure in the board some how?

[@MadcowGenesis]

You can certainly do that.

[@liamnelson1226]

Rob Petkau SWEET. thank you so much

[@hobbypapel]

tank you my master, now i surrender to yours teachings completly...

[@simonkeightley1080]

Probably a super noob question, I just got into the DIY lightsabers, but would this be possible/ how would the process change if I used a Cree MCE so that I could program different colors?

[@MadcowGenesis]

You don't need a Cree MCE. Look into a Petite Crouton Prizm sound card with a Tri Cree LED.

[@Suprchrg2SS.LS3]

Hello Rob, this may be a silly question. a few months ago I purchase an Ultra Saber prophecy v3 with lite sound board/no flash on clash. I regret not ordering with flash on clash.(budget mind) anyway I heard about the Nano biscotte V3 or the Pex. Is it possible for me to do/change/add the Nano or Pex, to my existing wiring on my Prophecy V3? ps I did not see any videos on upgrade using existing wirings on other sabers. Thanks Rey

[@MadcowGenesis]

It should be fairly easy - but I have not worked on that kind of sabers personally. I would ask on the forums.

[@Suprchrg2SS.LS3]

Thanks rob, i'll check at forums... Your Vids are Primo .. thanks for Sharing ;o)

[@leemcduffie4569]

Know this question is a year old but for anyone else that is wondering about “activating” FoC on an obsidian board, the center pin on the board is the FoC lead. If your saber doesn’t have flash then there will be a 3 pin harness on either side of it, leaving it open. FoC/lock up is always on, you just don’t see it because there is no led connected to the center pin. You’ll need to change the led star to one with a flash die and connect it to the empty center pin.

[@brandonjoutras8446]

So in this build how would you secure the sound card if you were to use this as a stunt saber?

[@MadcowGenesis]

"Stunt saber" generally means it has no sound... There are many ways to secure the sound card, battery and speaker. Try the v6 holder.

[@brandonjoutras8446]

Thanks for the reply!

[@RamtheDaugterDodgetheFather]

Do I need 2 different switches on the v4 to power on and change sound banks?

[@LTDLimiTeD1995]

Nope, the color is linked to the font.

[@hobbypapel]

I am from Chile and i want to buy a nano biscotte v3 but i dont have a credit card... there is another way to get it? I realy want to built my own ligth saber... help me please.

[@MadcowGenesis]

contact [e-mail]

[@anasazimusic6310]

If you had a saber with a standard switch, like ultrasabers, could you put a nicer looking one, or am I stuck

[@WarMachinne]

Depends on the size of the hole that is drilled in the hilt. Many nice illuminated switches come in 12mm or 16mm sizes (hole diameter will match)

[@anasazimusic6310]

Thanks, I want to upgrade my ultrasabers to have sound and I want better switches too

[@collinfoster7771]

I am making a saber with the NB v4 with a tri-Cree LED. Would the wiring be the same on the v4? (I don't see tri cree wiring in the v4 manual). Also, I have not decided on the 3 colors yet. I might go RGB but would that be different wiring than simply BBW? Thank you and keep up the awesome videos!

[@johnemmons9087]

good question. i'm doing the same and i'm not seeing any information on the NBv4.

[@davidmclelland9989]

I would love for your question to be answered.

[@mcpappyracing1326]

Does anyone know the answer to this question?

[@johnemmons9087]

McPappy Racing we are all still waiting apparently

[@mcpappyracing1326]

Well, I soldered my V4 up like V3 and it worked. I used Green Green White and the flash on clash works great.

[@miguelaulet9425]

hey Rob! Could I use a single resistor for three white LED's?

[@WarMachinne]

Yes, as long as they're wired in parallel like shown in the video

[@takeatime3699]

How to connect crossguard side blade led

[@colecooper3575]

Do make ones for sale?

[@peterwolf8953]

Cuál es el precio con envío a México?

[@TheAristoi]

Does the CF v8 need a power extender for FoC or color changing?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+TheAristoi No power extender needed. But A CEx is ideal for colour changing. It's all in the manual.

[@AlasdairGR]

Does it matter which end of the resistor you solder to the leads?

[@MadcowGenesis]

nope

[@GrillPiece63]

Can you use a Buckpuck with the Nano Biscotte 3?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Yes

[@GamesforCykits]

Hey question if I have a tier 2 lightsaber can I add a soundboard to it?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Games For Cykits Not sure what a Tier 2 is, but the NB soundboard is designed to work in many applications.

[@GamesforCykits]

+Rob Petkau oh ok that's good to know but it's one of the different levels of lightsabers saberforge has tier 1 is just the hilt and called I believe ignite, tier 2 is the hilt and saber, also called warrior, then you can get tier 3 which is champion which is the hilt, saber, and sound board, then there hero which is all that and more, the higher the tier the more expensive it is, but since you don't know about the tiers by saberforge then I guess you won't know if you can add a soundboard to their tier 2 saber, thanks for telling me though

[@armandomederosjr.1247]

hi iam adding every item to cart but dont see the outer heatsink module of the led. does that come with led?

[@MadcowGenesis]

The heatsink comes with your blade holder. You can select which one.

[@armandomederosjr.1247]

+Rob Petkau thank you so much Rob for taking the time to make this tutorial I just did my very first install using the items and this video.

[@handfullofjake]

does flash on clash only work with a tri led?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Well you need at least 2 LED dice

[@handfullofjake]

+Rob Petkau do you need a white LED or does rgb work?

[@MadcowGenesis]

RGB works fine

[@heknah]

Hello again lol I have another question to ask. Do you need a clash sensor with the new NB3?

[@ocmod698]

+Hector Torres No, there is a clash sensor built in.

[@heknah]

+ocmod698 OK cool thanks!!!

[@thorney0921]

how bright is the blade when it's all together?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Very bright!

[@damionchrist]

Does Amber die need resistor if used for F-O-C?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+DamionChrist I would.

[@stupidboy32]

you can't even see it

[@doop9328]

I was wondering how you can change the speed of the flash?

[@MadcowGenesis]

It's in the manual for the sound card.

[@llic0307]

so a latching switch doesn't work with the nano biscotte v3?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Correct.

[@Spacegoat92]

How do you make a blade shimmer at idle?

[@MadcowGenesis]

That is a feature of all the Plecter Labs sounds cards.

[@Spacegoat92]

Rob Petkau Awesome!!! Looking forward to building my own soon!

[@pat3000721]

could I use one resistor for 3 leds?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+pat3000721 It's possible, yes, but not advisable. More than two and I would prefer to resistor each LED individually.

[@dominickwinter7479]

how different is the NBv3 from the NBv4?

[@armandomederosjr.1247]

I just did my first install using the nano v4 and unlike the v3 that comes with 2 fonts the b4 comes with 3 preloaded fonts and the swing reaction is almost instantaneous. awesome little board

[@chadstilson8804]

Hi Rob, I am making this exact lightsaber build but I also have a Red Indicator LED ( www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator-P113.aspx ) that I would like to incorporate into the hilt. How should I wire it into my saber? Thanks SO much

[@jp554731]

Which 12 watt saber forge diy LED do I get for the deepest red with white flash on clash?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I don't know anything about those LEDs, but I have heard that the Tri-Cree is much better. I like the Red/Red/White for that.

[@teodorotorres4809]

Nice...

[@swedishchewbacca]

well....this is the lazy way to build a saber .....