Natural Anchors for Backcountry Rope Rescue

[@twathammerracing]

Why did you do a wrap 2 pull one with the knot on the load strand? It is the same strength as a single loop.

[@RemoteRescueTraining]

The wrap 2, pull 1 anchor has been shown to have the same breaking strength regardless of the placement of the overhand bend: roughly 25kN for 1" tubular webbing.

[@twathammerracing]

@@RemoteRescueTraining if a single loop is 4832lbs and a wrap2 pull 1 is 5510lbs, what makes you think the knot placement doesn't matter? If it didn't matter then there would be no need for the second wrap. www.cmcpro.com/one-inch-webbing-anchors-minimum-breaking-strength/

[@RemoteRescueTraining]

@@twathammerracing Often we don't need any more strength than a single loop, which is likely stronger than knotted 11mm rope. I might put in a second wrap to help hold it in place- to avoid slippage up or down. Of course sometimes we do need more strength and then we'd usually opt for a configuration where I clip more than one strand, and the location of the knot definitely doesn't matter. Unfortunately what we often see is a misunderstanding or mis-prioritization of the location of the knot leading to slower rigging and unfounded dogma. We prefer to think of a single stranded loop as at least as strong as the rope; use a wrap to keep it in place if you like. Use a double stranded loop configuration to avoid creating a weak link in the system if using fatter ropes or at a force multiplication point such as a narrow-angled change of direction.

[@twathammerracing]

@@RemoteRescueTraining There is no reason to do a wrap2 if the knot is in the wrong place. A single loop is almost as strong as an average 11mm rope with a knot but if you are doing any kind of system it should be able to raise and lower. If you are raising with pulleys you are most likely force multiplying making your anchor the week spot for no reason other than laziness. Look, your knot was in the wrong spot. I hope no one sees your video and thinks that "the knot placement doesn't matter ". How can you call this "training".

[@PapP148]

It seems like a lot of remote rescue instruction focuses on stuff like this instead of cams and blocks, why is that? Are they preferred or just neglected because its such common knowledge?

[@RemoteRescueTraining]

Natural anchors are generally simpler and easier to make with adequate strength for the forces anticipated in rescue systems. Trad climbing gear can and does get used for rescue anchors on occasion. Doing so is generally considered a more advanced skill.