The future of RARE replacement classic car parts!

[@MumrikDK]

Nothing like saving 600 bucks by asking your neighbor to do 600+ bucks of work for free :D

[@rkan2]

Billed by a company this would be 10x easy lol 😅

[@cameltoast]

😂😂😂 He got some content out of it is I'm sure his reasoning. Plus if he's like the rest of us, it's the thrill of the challenge.

[@dacat8171]

😂👍🏾 All my neighbors know exactly this guy.

[@wanpengqian]

The neighbor make an video then earn 1000+ bucks. and the viewers very happy to watch that video. that is a WIN-WIN-WIN, 3W~~~

[@jeffbanfieldsflwr3537]

That's what neighbors are for. I would do the same.

[@DrLesterTheSmith]

Designing or reverse engineering a discontinued/rare part takes a lot of time and intellectual investment to get right. I sometimes print tons of prototypes to get the right function, aesthetic, and printing efficiency and that filament investment costs a lot, no matter if it is a hobby or a side hustle or whatever. Compensating people for their efforts is only right. That being said, I enjoyed seeing a simple functional part being prototyped for a more complicated machine. It would be great for consumers if someone could invest in reproducing rare or discontinued parts as a business. Thanks again for another awesome video and thanks for letting us know about Forge Labs.

[@alexportiiii6414]

That's what I do for a living. I've spent years finding the right material and design. Someone saying I should give it away is kind of offensive. If I had a TV show, maybe I would!

[@AZREDFERN]

All of ours 00’s International trucks at work have been losing window regulators. It’s just the plastic slide snapping in half. But you can’t buy just the slider, so you have to buy a whole regulator assembly for hundreds of dollars. It took me 2 hours and a dollar to print a handful of regulator slides to fix the entire fleet.

[@TheLaXandro]

A centralized site with CAD files for car parts should be a thing. Like your regular Printables, but all business, with search by model, part number, tags for whether it's a straight copy or a part optimized for printing, etc.

[@802Garage]

OMG I love this idea.

[@PiDsPagePrototypes]

Wrecking yards could make extra income by 3D Scanning parts as they disassemble cars, creating a custom library of the 3D Models people could license to make new parts for cars old enough that the manufacturer has no interest in supporting them any more. It'd need to be cars that have been out of production long enough for any copyright on components to have expired.

[@RobertFletcherOBE]

I love the idea but how litigious are auto companies? would they go after the host?

[@TheLaXandro]

@@RobertFletcherOBE eh, that can be solved by hosting in Mongolia or something.

[@rkan2]

Thingiverse already works

[@Hybris51129]

I think the most important thing to establish is the idea that the files for these parts be made free and open source. Locking stuff behind a paywall will only start the cycle of parts files slowly disappearing as the companies that rise up to capitalize on this eventually get bought or shut down and their files disappear. I also hope that once such a culture is established it can expand to save other pieces of history like antique firearms.

[@berlinberlin4246]

Yes please, it's shut be mandatory for parts witch not longer produced

[@VacFink]

A lot of work and time went into engineering and testing to get the part right. That should not be free. When one maker stops selling the part it can be re-engineered just like this one is, and that's indefinite and likely to benefit in the future from even better technology and materials.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I agree 100% It is that one bad apple issue as always. As soon as I release these files, someone will take them and mass produce them and sell them on Ebay. If it was mandatory and all of the files were available, that's a different story, and I like that idea. If the community can come together with one place to do this and anyone that tried to re-sell the parts on Ebay is immediately taken down and fined, it would work well. We can make the parts and there is no longer a need to store all of this stuff for a long time until someone needs them.

[@802Garage]

@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah exactly. If you don't sell them, someone will. I have no issue with people who reverse engineer products keeping the files to themselves, provided they aren't directly blocking some kind of greater common good. Obviously the exact line for what that means is subjective. If someone could 3D print a water filter that would end a common disease, they should probably release it for free, hahaha. I also of course am happy if someone releases the reverse engineered files for something like this free, I just don't think they should be forced to. Someone else can always do it if they insist. I'm very staunch on right to repair and community cooperation too.

[@proaudiorestore8926]

It’s got zero to do with me making money, but more about the responsibility that comes with sharing something. You could always put a disclaimer but if it’s the reason 10 people are dead, it becomes a bit more serious.

[@austincase914]

One of the best things I've found for working with tight tolerances and moving mechanisms in 3D printing is a cheap reamer set. Just something small that you can throw in a drill, and doesn't have to be high quality for plastic or even aluminum parts and lets you get very tight holes for your hardware

[@AidyJamesStevens]

I have a small design engineering and 3D printing business and replicating unobtainable car parts is a good chunk of my business. I mostly use nylon-cf, but some parts call for TPU.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice! That's awesome, and how do you do your 3D scanning mainly? I've made some parts with ABS-GF and ABS-CF and I received a lot of comments saying that I should never use those around metal since they'll wear down the metal over time, what do you think about it? I'm also curious about the TPU, would this be for custom gaskets etc?

[@keithnoneya]

I don't own a Corvette but I do own a classic 1969 GTO 400. I love that you took the time and effort to do the much needed work to help out the Corvette owners and set an example for others to follow. I hope that you turn this into a business to encourage others to spend the time and money to buy the equipment and produce these parts at a reasonable price. Many people would ask you to or expect you do spend the time and money on the equipment and then give away the data for free. If you do that is your choice, but I would hope that by not doing so others will spend the; Time, Effort and Money to expand the replica parts Business to help others produce these much needed parts. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@802Garage]

Now THIS is why I got into 3D printing! Absolutely awesome work, Mike. Really cool you were able to get some parts made domestically as well.

[@nathanb62]

Wooooo. Fellow Canadian here. I didn't think there was room for another 3d printing channel but I am loving all the content so far!

[@GreenAppelPie]

Not only rare. The cost of regular parts are often insane

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Well said, everything is going up and up in price, ideally we'd be able to make whatever we need ourselves for our cars, for our tools, for appliances etc. Machining is still a problem, and I don't have a great solution for that yet. I don't have a mill and even if I did, we'd still need special tooling, but it's at least a start.

[@waynegalvin4639]

You are a great neighbour! Few neighbours will step up like you did, that being said I have an old corvette as well and some parts are not available for my car but there is money to be made by guys like you.

[@tellyfaulkner3466]

Thank you. This is amazing. I'm in Australia and own an old (1973) Mazda with the same issues everyone here is experiencing - no longer available / unobtainium, high cost if it's available from manufacturer or crappy used and abused 2nd hand also with a very high asking price. I'll have to see what services like this are available locally. Thanks again.

[@robertsimmons9563]

This is awesome! I have a 74 corvette that I bought and restored when I was 15/16. I have been wanting to do exactly this for mine. Thanks for the video - I’m excited to see what’s next

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice! I have lots more ideas. I'd like to do some strength testing on metal 3D prints as well, how strong are they really, can they really compare to machined parts?

[@robertsimmons9563]

@ I really love that you did the metal prints for a couple reasons; 1. It’s amazing that with some design work you can get metal printed. This is like StarTrek and the freaking holodeck . 2. I remember buying parts that were either junk reproductions that would break, they were canabalized off other Vette’s, or they were custom (badly) made fiberglass parts that I produced as a kid. The nylon parts you printed were a million times better than the parts I had access to. I still have a hard time wrapping my head around what can be printed nowadays. I’d love to see designs where engineering grade filaments can replace the original designs. A lot of stuff can be lighter, stronger, or more accessible since printing doesn’t have the same constraints as subtractive manufacturing. So maybe the part isn’t quite as strong but people can print it in their garage… guess what, half my vette is rusted away so I know that you don’t actually need to have everything be as strong or stronger than original 😅 For the steering column I’d be more than happy with something like a nylon-gf filament. Where the metal gets super interesting is for things that will be in the engine compartment or something to fix the freaking actuators on the lights! (I literally replaced the vacuum actuators 4-5 times before giving up). I’m seriously drooling over the possibilities for the center console and all the different plastic panels inside too…. Until then I’ll just live vicariously through you.

[@glynluff2595]

I think you have to look at two separate issues here. Is the part subject to stresses that it can cop with? Is the part subject to stresses the failure to which will cause loss of control and injury and can you prove the integrity of the part in court? So a minor bracket would be OK but a steering arm say would not. Other than that I think the idea has immense possibilities or even be used to produce patterns for metal casting a process that usually takes the skills of a Pattern Maker.

[@RobertEHunt-dv9sq]

Great video very informative. The only issue I have with your thought process on the $ 600 part is how you value your time. As a ME your hourly rate should be 175 to 225. And you spent easily more than 3 hours on the preliminary investigative effort, the CAD development and finally the 3D printing files. As such the 600 dollar part is looking very affordable, and as they say time is money. So the next time the parts breaks you are one step ahead and it makes sense to do the effort of 3D. Otherwise for the majority of us that time has a higher value, I’ll just purchase the $600 part to get the vehicle back on the road in a timely fashion. Thank you for posting this experiment.

[@sandwich.entity3810]

I think the idea is that CAD software is available for free nowadays so anyone could do this using online 3D printing and SLS services and save money or replace parts that are completely unavailable

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Absolutely, and I would say it was even more of a problem because I didn't know how it worked, I wasn't involved in the project until after the problem was discovered. I messed around for a while trying to figure it out. On the other hand, buying a cheap part for $600+ isn't a good option either because we're rewarding people for price gouging. With a bit more experience and taking the time to 3D scan from the start, it would be a lot less time as well. I can't say I have all of the answers, it's still a fairly new process for me, I thought it was worth sharing and now that the car is back on the road and everything is working well I am really glad I went this route. There is some risk involved with doing something like this, one mistake and it may not work at all.

[@charvakkarpe]

@@NeedItMakeIt Calling the sale of a rare part for $600+ "price gouging" is so Canadian. Do you not feel any guilt about buying the other part for $15 when you could have 3D printed it? What if there's a shortage of that part but the seller listed it for $15 due to some sense of fairness? What if they sell out and someone else needs one?

[@SianaGearz]

Zinc cast parts often become very weak with time due to minute metallurgical errors in the material. Another problem is fatigue from repeat load rather than outright reaching normal failure strain.

[@justanothercomment416]

This is also true for aluminum. It suffers from fatigue failure. Only requires a minor sharp ding on the surface or micro-fracture during manufacturing and it will eventually lead to total failure. Especially with endless heating cycles as is common on the interior of a vehicle. This is so important that on aluminum props any ding on the prop is ground and filed during it's inspection process.Otherwise the ding can grow into a crack and eventually lead to total failure.

[@jessicahunt6569]

Came here to say this, very likely fatigue failure vs ultimate strength as tested. Still these parts will totally do the job, but I'd almost opt for a plastic weaker version so it's a modicum safer in an accident. Id rather it snap than impale myself on it 😂

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I saw the part at first and the first thing that came to mind, was a die-cast dinky car, It looks like the same material. Those are good points so there are weaknesses in the original part, and over time with fatigue the part can fail. I imagined that someone accidently kicked it or fell onto the lever, or was having a bad day and just reefed on it so hard that it broke, but that may not have been the case at all, it could have been like you said metal fatigue. For a part so deep down in the column, it would have been nice to see something a little more beefy. We're still trying to figure out where the little springs and some small metal parts go, they literally fell out when taking it apart...

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Ah, that's an interesting point to consider, I like that thought process. It could very well have been designed to fail first, it is positioned quite far back away from the driver in this case, but in a crash, it could change direction and do some damage for sure. I will keep that in mind for sure, very good!

[@chrstphrr]

Excellent video! One thing that stood out for improvement: Consider designing a set of 3d printable jigs for lining up your drill bits for the finishing process. Both for securing the part, and for lining up the drill bit for the two holes you need to size. This is definitely a great example of a use case to keep cars on the road when parts break. That and there's now going to be a much more affordable alternative to that $600+ part. I'm looking forward to the next video on this!

[@chrisreid8298]

What program did you use to get your 3d scan?

[@dave5194]

Also interested

[@berlinberlin4246]

Yes good question

[@Guardian_Arias]

On apple store there is a free app called 3D Scann that works really well. On android PolyCam works well if you pay. On pc, and by far, my favorite is Metashape it has a free trial and a permanent license version, but it works entirely offline, and it can never be revoked. On PC the free alternative is Mashroom which also run completely offline but its very slow and lacks quality compared to metashape on the same hardware.

[@iopfarmer]

same question

[@ReinaldoGonzalezreix2x]

Same question here!

[@stevesloan6775]

Amazing mechanism! You can almost see why cars did take substantial investment for R&D in the day. great content

[@AliasHSW]

It’s probably over 10 years ago now but the first time I heard someone talk about this subject online was on an episode of Jay Leno’s garage - in which he bought a printer to do his projects . It’s certainly something I thought about before that time.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

He has covered so much, I also remember seeing him covering Evaporust using an ultrasonic cleaner with the heater, which sped up the rust removal process dramatically. The tech is getting to be low-cost enough and accessible to just about anyone as long as you have the ability to design what you need, not everyone does, but 3D scanning helps a bit with this issue. Machining is another one.

[@ThePhilbox]

Cool...this is one of the best uses of 3d printing. Photoscan + reverse engineer. Very cool.

[@simonrussell4986]

From what I've seen, OpenScan might have been a good tool to have in your shop for scanning this. A couple of automatic passes, some processing, and it's ready for Fusion. Looks great, well done.

[@josephjones4293]

I had a hood emblem printed by jpc in stainless and it was $9… 100+ for that lil bit blew my mind

[@brucewilliams6292]

Thank you for letting us know the prices on getting them made. Definitely will use this service when I have my next problem part.

[@Todestelzer]

I ordered 3D printed metal parts too for one of my projects. It really open ups what you can do now as a hobbyist at home.

[@Ludicrous_Speedway]

These are easily some of my favorite projects to undertake. Pretty recently I had to reverse engineer an obsolete cast lock cylinder that had cracked in half. It's tricky to try and get dimensions on something that is not supposed to be two pieces, LOL. I went to the trouble of getting that file cast in brass and sintered in stainless steel and aluminum only for some spare parts to come my way, It's always like that isn't it? Oh well, I've got the data now and it turns out to be as common a problem as I thought it was. Maybe I'll do something with it. Great video.

[@CdoGtheGreat]

I broke a die cast tensioner bracket for my old delta band saw. I modeled and printed in polycarbonate filament. Still works after a few years under tension

[@VashStarwind]

I didnt even know you could 3d print metal. Thats cool. Im sure if you ordered like a dozen of those, and sold em, there would probably be at least 10 corvette owners that would love you. ha

[@Camaro45th]

Great video. I agree about this use of 3D printing being a huge benefit for the automotive parts industry.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks! I saw a car that was fully 3D printed recently and they said they had optimized each part down to the gram, no extra anywhere. I think it is really cool, but they'd probably want to add at least a bit extra to deal with corrosion over time, and any cases of driver error, but I can see a future where most of the replacement parts are 3D printed, and made to order, no more warehousing of old parts. I really like the texture, it looks a bit like a cast part or at least sandblasted, the layer lines are barely visible. I'm really looking forward to being able to make these parts at home though, that's not going to be cheap though.

[@sierraecho884]

Great example for that people saying because something is made out of polymer it will break sooner, well as you can see here the metal braket broke here.

[@mikecrane2782]

I make bits for my old cars, and laser cut brackets in stainless for various bits, but laser cutting work hardens the metal. I have to use cobalt drills and cutting oil to get through stainless. the other tip is to make a pilot hole much smaller and then drill it out to size, then the hardened area is much less to cut through. The nylon parts look good though

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Which laser do you use for cutting stainless? I was blown away by the nylon parts, I think it might be a good idea to do glass reinforced nylon and where there is contact with other parts, adding some bushings. If the part is okay to flex a bit, using the standard nylon would be a good option too. The parts sound like pottery when I drop them, they're not like FDM printed parts at all, I think they can be a good long-term solution for most applications... just not brakes :)

[@mikecrane2782]

@@NeedItMakeIt Sorry bud didn't mean it quite like that, I out source my stainless stuff to a local company near me by just giving them a DXF/DWG, but I learnt the hard way drilling holes or trying to machine laser cut steels re hardening. I made a jig for boring a cylinder for an old car, and I had glowing swarf using indexible tips in the lathe trying to finish it off.

[@dadbear5316]

Metal 3D printing has been amazing for replacing diecast parts, in some cases, if you get really clever you can even print directly onto the broken part.

[@brianmacadam4793]

I've done a lot of 3D printing, one important issue I've found is the wear characteristics of materials.

[@loganyerian-higgins18]

Fun fact almost all gm and Jeep vehicles from that time use the exact same steering column

[@stevesloan6775]

It would be cool if your 3d printed braces were designed to hold in a vise, and also/ initially used to clamp the piece for drilling the holes needed. It will cost more to print, but well worth the extra cost.

[@dc6233]

Junk the drill bits, use spiral flute reamers. You can get China sets pretty cheap, they'll work in all those materials.

[@Charger1908]

How’s about a cost breakdown for the metal printed versions and the nylon one. Thanks!

[@jimurrata6785]

Porsche has been SLS printing unavailable vintage parts from their factory drawings for almost a decade. Its cool that they're still supporting speedsters and the like, but i can't imagine what they cost

[@fbujold]

this is where 3d printing shines!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I think so too, I am so looking forward to printing SLS at home, and eventually metal somehow as well!

[@razoraerialnda6098]

I have been making classic car parts for quite a while now mostly due to finding the parts or if you do they’re really bad shape. I do not however believe that they should not be all free. Takes me a time to engineer the part, but I do want to make sure it’s at a reasonable cost for people to buy parts instead of being super expensive. Currently have some older Corvette stuff and some older Chevelle stuff but I’m gonna keep going forward as the need arises

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It's certainly an option for anyone that wants to make these hard to find parts available, it's no easy task to do this, we don't have the original plans, and like you said, if the parts are in bad shape, that makes your job even harder. It takes a really good understanding of how everything works together, the tolerances and material properties too. I have a lot of respect for that type of work. I don't like when companies try to price gouge me, when I see that, it makes me want to find any solution possible to avoid encouraging that behavior. Have you ever tried metal 3D printing some of your parts?

[@razoraerialnda6098]

Yeah, not a big fan of the company‘s price gouging either I mean personally I would love to get to a point where I’m making these parts and don’t have to worry about working for a second job too just to make ends meet but no I haven’t tried metal 3-D printing any yet the closest I get is some seriously strong materials that are close to the metal but not a full on metal 3-D print.

[@jthomeo]

Great to see it, as usual. What about testing PPA-CF and PPS-CF as home printed replacements? Did you aneal you PPS-CF part?

[@lonewolfsstuck]

Stuff like this is partly why i have just a cheap 3d scanner. just a cr scan ferret. It may not be the perfect tool for every situation, but something like this it is much better to get a accurate reference along with real measurements. This may not be the perfect item but with enough scans im sure you can get something very usable just from scans alone. Either build it yourself with scans for refrence or clean up the scan and print and check.

[@Michael-cm8qk]

I'm dying to know if you had to tweak the scan file or if you were able to send it straight to Forged Labs. I've checked out a few KZbin videos in which people did 3-D scanning with both phones and with thousand dollar 3-D scanners, and they had to take it into CAD and fix distortions. One example was a brake lever for a motorcycle, and a ton of editing work was required to get the scan to match the real thing, before sending it to a 3-D printer or machine shop.. Be there as it may, it was encouraging to see you do with the phone.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

I would consider printing and doing a "lost PLA" print in aluminum (or even pot metal!)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'd love to do some of this too, I have a furnace with a small crucible but I don't have anything large enough to do the burnout in it. It'd be a great option as long as we could get the flow into all of the small details.

[@bowieinc]

Can you share what app or software you used to scan and generate the model? Thanks:)

[@PG-ji6vq]

Use cobalt drills at a slow speed with machine oil to drill stainless steel. Using a conventional drill can work harden the stainless, which sounds like your experience. Anyway nice part!

[@sinithwar8991]

You can also do casting, which would require no full-on machining, just clean up work with grinders.

[@StephenArsenault]

Loved this video. I design, print, and sell a variety of open source 3D printed replacement parts and really appreciate your testing!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Cool, thanks for the comment! Where do you post your designs? I am a bit concerned that someone would take the design and sell it on Ebay, this is something I've had happen to me in the past... well it is still happening since Ebay was not helpful in removing the product.

[@StephenArsenault]

@@NeedItMakeIt I replied earlier but I think my links filtered my response. Even though I prefer to make my designs open source, they are not all available. I've had many folks outright ignore my licensing and have had a few struggles with eBay to have my items being sold without permission removed. I post my designs on Thingiverse and also on PCBWay now that it's so easy to order directly there.

[@cnng3506]

This is absolutely awesome Sir, love your KZbin content. Thank you for sharing and I have subscribed to your channel.

[@kennymichaud5366]

I 3d printed some blinker switch springs for my 55 Chevy. See how long they last for

[@SwordFighterPKN]

Great idea for unubtanium parts

[@ppeterson9359]

Great video! Thank you!

[@larryberry2436]

How did the original part break? Catching one’s jacket on the lever while getting in and out of the vehicle.

[@jerryford1012]

Life time gm dealer tech I changed loads of those pivots broke all the time

[@JohnHansknecht]

A Volvo employee recently purchased my Prusa. He 3d prints parts for brand new Volvos coming off the assembly line here in Charleston SC. This is because Volvo would rather make small parts that have undergone a design revision by 3D printing than invest in new injection molds. He gets quotes for high volume molds and then is able to personally beat that quote and sell his parts to Volvo. I told him about the Buster Beagle home injection molding that should be more cost effective

[@homeistheearth]

One of the first things i printed was small plastic nuts for my Saab

[@3Dgifts]

Great episode. What did you use to scan the part?

[@MehmetAliEken]

Thank you for the video. It's always an interesting topic. Could you maybe tell me which app you used for the 3D scan? Regards from Erding 🙂

[@philip_fletcher]

Making things 'unbreakable' often just transfers the breakage further up the line - often to more expensive (or for classic cars, rarer) components. Redesigning around the critical function points for the preferred manufacturing method is certainly a better option. It's amazing how just a simple fillet can transform a 3D printed part.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's a valid point, in this case the mating part was also metal, attached to the metal column, I'm saying metal because it looks like steel but may not be. I think that's a valid point, here I just wanted to make sure that we didn't need to spend hours taking the thing apart again in a few years. Ideally we'd use the identical material as the original, but the online one looked to be very poor quality, this is a better option IMO.

[@philip_fletcher]

The original part was likely designed down to a price point (as would have been the component it attaches too). A lightly redesigned 3D part would probably last just as long but also better match the failure mode - I think I would've gone for the aluminium printed part though 😉

[@chrisrichardson7217]

Your drawings look amazing

[@olsonspeed]

Very good, I am an advocate of The Right To Repair. Replacement parts shouldn't cost a fortune, hopefully being able to order a replacement parts from a second party 3D printer will become common place.

[@Cabalero24]

когда делаешь запчасть часто имеет смысл делать сразу две - затраты примерно такие же как при впроизводстве одной, вторая может пригодиться самому, а может быть продана на покрытие расходов.

[@zero_spectre]

What 3d scan app did you use on your phone Mike? That mesh looked really high quality. Thanks, James.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I've been using Polycam for a long time, it keeps getting better and it has both a photogrammetry version and a LiDar version, the Lidar is pretty rough, it works well on big things. I scanned our home for example so I had the size and topography of the land before adding our front porch. Having the macro lens option makes a huge difference with these small parts, and just good lighting and something white usually does the trick, the quick scan shown in the video is the actual scan I took for that part, so I wasn't too careful either. I also use the free version unless there is something new I'd like to test out.

[@zero_spectre]

@NeedItMakeIt amazing, thank you. I have creality ferret pro and it looked like Polycam produced better results that the standalone scanner does.

[@VashStarwind]

A good tig welder with cast experience might have been able to weld that piece back together

[@notj5712]

What modeling software are you using?

[@teslar1]

Can you tell me what app were you using to scan that part?

[@karlfell3768]

The future has arrived

[@giovannitorresrojas6078]

Please, What software did You use to scan the shape using photos?

[@vvkarhu1477]

Is the ender 3 v3 ke bed swap progressing?😊

[@stevesloan6775]

can i please ask, what scanner did you use to 3d scan ?

[@repentnow1720]

1978 - "Vintage" - You are Adorable! Never change! : )

[@pieteri.duplessis]

Great info and fun to watch.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks for taking the time, the Corvette is back on the road and the signal and high beams work well, I will follow up with a short video to add onto this video.

[@AMD1]

funny i was just talking to my co worker and asking him to 3D print a steering cam for my '59, and i am also ok without a self-cancelling signal if needed

[@K4TORG412]

how did you do the 3d model with your phone? and how accurate is it

[@Guardian_Arias]

The nylon version didn't break, but it did flex, and that's note worthy because if all you care about is whether or not a part breaks under stress, then print everything out of 95A TPU or 72D TPU and your parts will be indestructible in comparison.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's a great point, and I really close look afterward and I noticed that one of the holes up top where the small spring pin passes through was a little stretched, so you're absolutely correct, after seeing how it installs and where I could add some material, I would have made a few more changes, everything in that steering column is packed so tight, it is risky to change the shape and just hope that it would all work out well. I'm quite impressed with the metal versions and it seems that the standard steel version is actually cheaper than the other options, I didn't realize this until it was too late, so either aluminum or steel would be my choices for future to keep the costs down.

[@Guardian_Arias]

@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah, steel SLS parts are impressive, especially since they are being heat treated and tempered at the same time during the print, so the final part is actually hardened steel Also, jokes aside, TPU is a slept on material it really is indestructible compared to all other filaments and is easily printable with any newer style extruder. Just dont run it thru an AMS. Nylon typically has a hard rating of 75D. Some TPUs go as high as 72D, but I've not come across any filament that has superior layer adhesion where.

[@Kevin.L_]

​@@Guardian_AriasTPU is great stuff. Like you said, toughness and layer adhesion are amazing. I'll have to look into the harder options.

[@AdreamX]

What is if you make a diecast form and cast it with a low melting metal like zink ?

[@sam-sx8rf]

What app did you use for 3d scan ?

[@PiDsPagePrototypes]

Why choose manual measuring over 3D Scanning?

[@Froestenpust]

What phone and software for 3D-scanning did you use? Is there any usable Android software out there?

[@stevesloan6775]

Wait, did you stress test the stainless-steel version to breaking point? Did i miss that?

[@OldAndGettingOlder]

You said the store bought part would cost $600+. What do you think this printed part ended up costing? Not including all the extra copies you did for filming and educational purposes of course. Assuming i had the skill to do what you've done, how much money would i save or spend for this stainless printed part vs just buying it for $600+?

[@dave5194]

How did you get perfectly circular vertical holes? Mine always come out squished

[@enderlane]

I saw a support in one of them

[@NeedItMakeIt]

The small holes were just barely oval shaped, it was so slight that it was hard to see, but they warned me about this. I can't explain this yet but I would imagine that it is tied to the sintering process in how it is supported during that process. I left the holes slightly undersized to be able to clean them up in my shop and that worked really well. ideally you'd be able to machine those afterward to get the exact position and size you need. Forge Labs can machine the parts too, but that will add some cost. Still trying to get something like this made from scratch by milling it out would take days to do at a huge cost, the 3D printing process makes a lot of sense, it's just the final machining part in those critical areas to deal with.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'd love to see the process, I've asked to see if I can tour their facility at some point, I don't fully understand how to avoid the warpage and also how they support the parts during the sintering process.

[@lacerta2207]

Can't find a reference to the application he used for scanning the part. Somebody knows?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's polycam, I use the free version, you can only export GLB files, but then I can convert it afterward to OBJ and use it. They have one of the best that I've used. I have a few videos on it already, but it's a bit more advanced now and I think it's getting better and better. It should work with any phone, but the Iphone works well because it has the Lidar, it will scale the part pretty close for you and orient it too, a non-apple will give you a good 3D but not to scale. In either can you need to do the final scale yourself, it tends to be off by about 1% or so.

[@lacerta2207]

@@NeedItMakeIt thanks for the additional information. Will definitely give it a try!

[@mikewhite2991]

it looks like the original part was what we called "pot metal" which was zinc. Don't think it was SS or aluminum, might be wrong. Good news is if it's pot metal that stuff is crazy weak so even the aluminum part would be an improvement.

[@The1wsx10]

doesn't the nylon part get weaker as it absorbs water?

[@RyanStone143]

Those prices are really good!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I thought so, it looks like the steel is even more reasonably priced, when I looked at first I thought it was tool steel, which tends to be more $$, but it's actually cheaper than the aluminum version, so it's a good option for future videos, the stainless is great, but not really necessary for much of what I'd need it for.

[@saturnmedia1]

How much did each of the metal parts cost? And how much would it have cost to print them in PPS-CF or PPA-CF? :) Great video! Please get some better calipers though!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I went over that near the end of the video, I figured that people would be curious. If you're in the US, the 316 Stainless part was in around the $74 US range, for the Aluminum version it would be $45 US. The plastic parts were quite a bit cheaper, ranging from $10 to $21 each for the Nylon, the GF Nylon is a bit more expensive. Printing some metals like Aluminum would allow us to make very complex parts like high-performance heat-sinks, I really want to do something with this in the future to see what the limits are and how well it can work in comparison to a standard heat sink for example. Let me know if that helped!

[@saturnmedia1]

@Needitmakeit thank you! I think also that you could have improved on the original design and made it even stronger in areas where it previously broke with either thicker walls or ribbing. You have the advantage of not having to bow down to accountants by making the part thinner and cheaper for mass production. :))

[@1clnsdime1]

Stainless is not hard, but it is very dense. If u use low speed and medium but constant pressure, it will drill at its best. Never go high speed because it will work harden very quickly.

[@andrewchudyk8518]

What phone and app are you using to scan?

[@MikeMcAuliffe-g2f]

Pretty neat.

[@chrisrichardson7217]

The 3D printer can be used in many ways if you wanted a cast metal part

[@NorgenSolutionsLLC]

Nice video

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time.

[@ReinaldoGonzalezreix2x]

what a beautiful car!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I didn't show as much as I wanted to since it wasn't my shop, but it is in really good shape, I'd love to do more projects to help them restore it even more!

[@stevesloan6775]

You 100% need tungsten carbide drill bits for stainless steel.

[@PatrickBrown-lv7rv]

These parts have potential to ommercialise & sell on line & be made at a realistic price, alot of time has been applied to development & a impovement over the original.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I considered it, normally I release the parts to the community, but in this case I felt that someone would take it and turn around and sell it on Ebay. I've had this problem before and Ebay isn't good about taking these things down at all. If anyone needs the part, they can email me and I can see about having one made up for them at a good price that doesn't rip them off. It does have my logo on it, but those are pretty easy to scrub with the right software.

[@MFA-0000]

Awesome subject!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I thought so, I still don't quite know how to deal with the final machining the best, in my case it was pretty simple, but some parts will require more and that could mean more $$. A milling machine is one solution, but it's not really worth it, it might be better to have Forge Labs take care of the machining instead.

[@MFA-0000]

@@NeedItMakeIt Hopefully Forge Labs will come to Brazil in the future. For now, 3D printing at home is the only option available for me to recreate an old Chevrolet emblem

[@sirukin7849]

Not even just rare parts, new parts are possible.

[@jaydee3046]

I expect companies to sell rights to print parts. This could save millions in inventory for them. Storage space costs and handling costs savings would be astronomical. No more paying 15 dollars shipping on 3 dollar parts

[@berndheiden7630]

After seeing this process it is clear that the files can not be made public domain, there were days involved in recreating a functioning part! But one public domain list of parts that have been reverse engineered and are available could be helpful!