New lower control arms on the Forester

[@berserkerusmc7613]

I'm pretty sure that you tighten everything down. Put the tires on, and lower the car to the ground. Then when the full weight of the car is on the ground, is when you torque all the bolts to spec.

[@rywanders]

You wouldn’t want some of those to shift under weight.

[@berserkerusmc7613]

@rywanders I agree. I'm not saying leaving things so loose that it'll shift. I'm just repeating what is in the service manual from subaru and my own personal experience. When I completed my rebuild of a 15 forester front end, I torqued everything to spec. Went for a test drive and heard popping noises and what sounded like bad cv joints. So, I looked into it. Loosed it all back up. Made sure all were tight, but not at torque spec. Put tires back on and lowered the car onto ramps. I then put my weight on the fenders and pushed down and released. Allowing the suspension to basically go up and down. Then I tightened everything to torque. All those sounds went away. I knew that was the proc that subaru recommends. But I thought it was a bunch of BS, but in my case, it wasn't.

[@effortless_choice]

@@berserkerusmc7613 Good advice. I’m about to replace both, front lower control arms on a 2017 Forester. Thanks.

[@WadeChristensen]

Doing this today on my wife's 2017 XT. Thanks for including the torque specs! 🙌

[@rywanders]

Glad to help!

[@WadeChristensen]

​@rywanders really appreciate the video! The job went pretty well except for getting the new ball joint to seat all the way. Thanks for taking the time to make this! 🤘

[@McCain101]

About to tackle this once the parts coming in. Appreciate the guidance and quality of video. Will be following your channel for sure.

[@rywanders]

Awesome! Thank you

[@Agentloot5]

Sad to see the Landcruiser go but foresters are awesome cars! I had a 2016 and sold it to get my 2000 LC. I had a 2inch block lift on my forester with a diff drop and some bigger tires and it was a killer on the trails. Enjoy the mods!

[@rywanders]

I miss the cruiser sometimes but it’s fun to have boost again lol. I’ll get back into another yoto in the future, but for now we will see how this goes. Thx Charles!

[@mollybethlombard5013]

I've had that done to my 2017 Forester, the 2inch lift makes all the difference

[@mollybethlombard5013]

oops, forgot to day ...but I kept my 77 TLC ...won't let that go ;)

[@dang.2574]

Many thanks man. Great video

[@joshyoung8615]

Great video but you should have explained how the pinch bolt works around the ball joint. It's worth noting that using a wedge or chisel can make spreading that pinch point a lot easier. You spread it far enough to pop the ball joint out and leave it wedged in there until you get the new one back in.

[@rywanders]

Great point! Thanks!

[@effortless_choice]

Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to record and share this. I appreciate the added bonus of torque values. I rebuilt the front suspension on my 2002 BMW 330ci, and keep I telling my wife…”I know what I’m doing!” I’m going to show her your video so she’ll stop worrying. Ps I’ll drink an “adult beverage” in your honor 😁👍

[@rywanders]

Haha cheers! Glad to help out. Had to convince the wife recently to let me replace her brakes which saved us a ton of money.

[@mikeGustin-tk5eh]

Thanks so much, kudos.

[@rywanders]

Glad to help!

[@tombregman2875]

How long did the job take you? I appreciate that you give a lot of info like part numbers, torque specs and tips. Thank you for a great video!

[@rywanders]

Thank you I’m glad to help! So it took me longer than it normally would as I was filming, but I’d say a safe bet is about 2-3 hours to do both sides. Most of the time is just lifting the car and removing the wheels. If you have lift access it would make this job much easier.

[@effortless_choice]

Need your advice; I replaced both lower control arms, sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. I lowered the rig (2017 Forester) to put weight on the wheels before final tightening. Now I have a clunk in the right front that sounds like the sway bar smacking something when we go over bumps, particularly at low speed. I did some banging on the passenger side to get the ball joint to release, but I don’t think I damaged anything. I have checked for loose bolts, damage, e.g., I can’t find anything. One last thing, I disconnected the end links and drove around the neighborhood, the clunking noise goes away. As I mentioned…new sway bar bushings, new end links. A quick addition to possible causes; an outer tie rod end. Perhaps I damaged the passenger side when I was trying to bang that ball joint out. I’m at loss…any thoughts? Ps to anyone thinking of doing this job, get a can of PB Blaster penetrating catalyst. I forgot to use it on the first ball joint and it took me forever to get it out. Used it on the driver’s side; sprayed once and let sit for 15 minutes, repeated step one. Three good whacks with a short pickle fork on the control arm, behind the ball joint and it fell right out.

[@rywanders]

Hmm 🤔 okay so my right side clunked as well either I seated it wrong as it did get somewhat twisted on install or it was faulty (probably the latter) so I replaced it under warranty, installed the new one and problem solved. So maybe try this and see. Did you use rock auto to get the parts?

[@effortless_choice]

@@rywanders Yes…Moog. Faulty part hadn’t occurred to me. Nothing to lose by replacing it. I’m going to disconnect the end links again to double check that the noise stops. Whatever I do, I’ll share my results so others can benefit. Cheers 😎👍🇺🇸

[@rywanders]

@@effortless_choice much appreciated! Yeah hopefully that fixes it idk if the links create pressure causing it to pop? 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@effortless_choice]

@@rywanders the noise being made has a tone and depth that corresponds to something the size of the sway bar hitting the frame. With that in mind, I disconnected both end links to take the sway bar out of the equation. I then drove around our neighborhood in the same way that would make the “clunk” happen. With the end links disconnected, the noise stopped, leading me to believe it was the sway bar bushings that had perished (136K well loved miles). I replaced the sway bar bushings with OEM, reconnected the end links…the noise returns (right side). I’ll keep everyone posted 👍😎🇺🇸

[@effortless_choice]

Wanted to add, after a lot of research , I found the inner and outer tie rods can make a sound similar to what we’re talking about. So, moving forward… 1. Disconnect end links to isolate sway bay from control arms, etc. just make sure (again) the noise stops when they’re disconnected. 2. Replace the new lower control arm with an identical (new) replacement. 3. Reconnect end links…if noise continues…start looking at inner and outer tie rods. 3. If noise continues…pack with tannerite…drive to “lower 40” and put this beotch out of it’s misery 😂😂👍

[@turtlefiesta6628]

I just had the control arms replaced on my forester and the ride is so much worse. The stock ride is very firm and responsive, and now i feel like the car body is moving at a delay from the tires when changing lanes and coming to a full stop. Is this normal? I am assuming the shop I went to did not use OEM parts. Thoughts?

[@rywanders]

Hmm well the issue with me is I bought the car with the failing control arms so I don’t have a comparison to them when new. I do think the car feels somewhat that way in the turns and could use more stability. I heard the sti control arms are a great way to go but a bit pricey.

[@Nakai2024]

Would the parts in your links fit on a 2018 Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium? Rock auto doesn't give much for compatibility specs, but from what I can tell using other sites, I think they will work.

[@rywanders]

Yes they should as the suspension components should be the same.

[@tmesias75]

You mention the sway bar link counter is a torque bit…. This is not true, they are hex bolts, using a torque will round it out. I wound up having to grind it off and use new sway bar links.

[@rywanders]

Hmm maybe I said it wrong. I can’t remember for certain if it was a torx or hex, but I’m sure everyone will figure that out by looking at it. Thanks for pointing it out.

[@PodClipn]

Do you have to apply greese to any of the new bushes? I installed these along with sway arm links and ball joints and now makes a creaking noise when taking off . About to pull it back apart today

[@rywanders]

Not that I’m aware of . Mine doesn’t do this and I just did the sway arm links too. Could try a little silicone spray on them but it shouldn’t need it. Could be something else now that the area is tighter. Also make sure you put the ball joint in straight I accidentally twisted one then Installed and it popped in turns so I replaced it under warranty.

[@HowtoAk12]

Not a tourqes for sway bar it is an Allen key this messed me up

[@BEERded_Dan]

How're these holdjng up for you? How many miles have you put on since replacing them?

[@rywanders]

I don’t drive it a tone probably only 1500 since installed if that but they are solid. I think I messed up the right side with the ball joint but that’s on me.

[@Someothername2134]

Did the ball seriously just slide right back in? I can’t even press mine in with a jack

[@rywanders]

Use a standard hammer and wd40 or general purpose grease. Jacking won’t work as it just compresses the suspension. You can also use a pry bar to help spread it open a bit more

[@vannevels6758]

Use a chisel to spread the knuckle open a bit.

[@kyleyu7418]

I have a 2017 subaru forester xt with 65000 miles on it and my right front wheel began to wobble at 60MPH. Does this happen to your forester xt?

[@rywanders]

Check those control arms and your axle. Any noise?

[@dscableguy]

yes, replace the control arm, it comes with bushings