New TP4056 Lithium Cell Charger Module with Battery Protection

[@JasonPrice1]

Saw this and had to order a couple. Just started getting into 18650 salvaging so fun times ahead! Already have close to 40 batteries salvaged so far.

[@Mandrag0ras]

I'm jealous!

[@JasonPrice1]

runner180fxr Ya, I get a lot of laptops tossed my way and I also have a love for Ryobi power tools so I ended up with a dead pack at one point and it offered up 8 of 10 batteries as good so yay!

[@steved2967]

I just want to say that I feel I have learnt more from your videos than I learnt doing a two year electronics course. Thanks, Julian

[@JasonMasters]

Answering a few questions which multiple people have asked: 1. You can't use these boards in parallel to increase the charging current, however there are boards which do this by properly connecting the TP4056 chips to work in parallel. Search eBay for this phrase: TP4056 4.2V 3A High Current Lithium Battery Charging Board Charger 2. You generally can't charge cells in series with these boards even by connecting a separate charging circuit to each cell or set of cells, both because the charging power supply needs to be totally isolated from the load and because these charging boards would have difficulty in handling the discharge current. Instead, you'd need to search for a Battery Management System (BMS) board which is designed to properly balance charge the number of series cells you wish to use. Generally these will also incorporate over-current and under-voltage protection, which are both essential. You also need a power supply which will produce the correct voltage for charging the cells. 3. You can charge multiple 18650 cells in parallel. The only effect of adding more cells will be that the time taken to charge the cells will increase, perhaps to an impractical length of time if you add enough cells.

[@erlendse]

The board is neat. But I would like the protection module under layers of tape and other protection next to the battery. As for loads, if you can; make a bypass path to power the load from the voltage source, while on charge. Looks like a Li-Ion non-poly battery, they may be ok with being driven 4.2V over time. Still you may get a 4.1V charger instead and have the battery last a lot more cycles.

[@Enderkruemel]

I Charge all my lipos up to 4.24v and they are as Good as New. (i have used them for About 2 Jears now and almost dayly for my rc car and fpv copter.) But i never Run them lower as 3.1v.

[@PIXscotland]

Thanks for that. I just bought a stack of these and your tests were useful in deciding to do so. Today, May 2015 this board is 99p on Ebay with free shipping.

[@Gordonseries385]

important feature also is the ntc feedback. i will be testing it. sometime in curtain conditions the battery will get to hot. it will shutdown or lower current for what temperature the battery is. enjoyed you presentation and thank you

[@theamazingshinningstar3855]

You must use a heat sink to reduce the heat of the IC TP 4056. The module with battery protection will draw current more than 1A when charging 18650 battery.

[@normfolkers8966]

Julian, may I suggest you consider reviewing/investigating the circuit boards typically found inside laptop battery packs that perform the recharging of batteries when the laptop power supply is plugged in. I've taken apart several old battery packs to get the 18650 batteries. But the electronics in these packs is fully capable of charging these batteries. It would be useful tactic to re-use these electronic components. Also, typically only one battery is defective in these packs so a method of opening these battery packs, testing and replacing the defective battery/ies could be reused in the laptop or used simply to recharge batteries. Thanks for all your You Tube presentations.

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

As I understand it, the electronics inside the battery pack are designed to interact with the electronics on the laptop's motherboard, meaning they can't stand alone. I think that the battery packs are also deliberately made to be almost impossible to disassemble without wrecking the whole pack. I expect the motivation would be "safety" since you need to be sure that you're replacing like with like and not many people would realise that you can't just jam any old 18650 into the battery pack to replace the dead cell. And as the cells age, their capacity would suffer so even replacing like with like might not produce ideal results.

[@KD0CAC]

@@melkiorwiseman5234 Well you should have mentioned " impossible to disassemble " before I recovered over 500++ 18650's , without damaging either the cells or boards ;)

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

@@KD0CAC It's known as "hyperbole" and it issues forth under the impetus of bitter experience. 😅

[@Meiestrix]

+Julian Ilett If have one question. Why is the light bulb on when you connect the charger and the battery voltage is still under 2.9 Volts? Isnt the low voltage cutoff enabled and the MOSFET is disabled, so the 100mA trickle charge of the TP4056 goes just to the battery? This would mean the charger is directly connected to the OUT terminals. EDIT: That would mean the charger would never start to charge if you are using more than 100mA. On the pictures of the module it looks like the battery minus gets disconnected with active discharge protection. But it would be much better if the out terminal gets disconnected, to avoid this problem. So in conclusion the charger is not designed to charge and use >100mA at the same time.

[@RoelNicky]

i have a tp4056 without the battery protection, and it was overcharing my flat top batterys, now i know i have the wrong board for it nice video now i know wich one to buy for cells without the protection build inside the battery

[@JamesSleeman]

Nice one, certainly good for using with the unprotected cells. I've actually got all the same IC's floating around here somewhere, was on the "to do one day when I get to it" list to make a similar board. Except that I want to make it so that the load is powered direct from the external supply when connected, rather that through the charger, for the same reasons as you touched on, better to charge the battery unloaded.

[@JulianIlett]

With modules available at these prices, I'm not sure I could be bothered to make my own PCB. And you could modify these modules if they don't do exactly what you need.

[@nordemoniac]

Still a popular charger, but it does infect damage the LiPo's. They should be cut at 3.3V at a minimum, to avoid going under 3.2V. Keeping the LiPo between 3.2V and 4.2V will preserve its life (and avoid a potential fire). MCP73831/2 seems to be the best for this purpose.

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

The charge circuit was made for 18650 Li-Ion technology, not for Li-Po technology.

[@extendedp1]

Good video, thanks. I wish you had talked more about the board's problems, however. You found them, but didn't really make an issue of them... 1) Discharge protection doesn't cut on untill 2.5v, that is way to low, imo. 2) The board will not allow charging a cell below 2.9v... So when you combine the two together, along with the boards behavior of allowing further discharge as soon as the voltage hits 2.9v again, I see a bunch of flat, unchargeable cells.

[@HitAndMissLab]

Two Questions: - Isn't 2.5V discharge cut-off voltage too low for LiPo battereis? LiPos should be cut off at about 3.5-3.7? - Which resistor should be taken out and replaced so it can be replaced with potentiometer, so that one can have variable current 0-1,000mA.

[@szatanizmo]

+HitAndMissLab The resistor - if you hold the board with input socket on the left, it is the most bottom resistor (the one connected to pin no. 2). It's all in the datasheet :) And I don't like the discharge cut-off voltage either - way too low in my opinion.......

[@jirkacvrcek]

HitAndMissLab no, 3.7V is nominal voltage, not cut-off voltage

[@mosestewelde8163]

You don't need to replace the resistor if you connect a potentiometer in parallel.

[@emilen2]

HitAndMissLab Good practice for li-ion or LiPo is to cut discharge at minimum of 3.5 volts. Not much energy is available below this, although some chemistries are taking less cumulative damage from it. Charging to less than 4.2 V is also beneficial to cell life. (LiFePO4 is operating at a lower voltage, and the above voltage range does not apply to this chemistry.)

[@jettechristensen4014]

then why the heck are all the protection circuits 2.5v cutoff it makes not sense when that damages most lithiums, my lithium ion drill battery cuts at 3v.

[@alimemari1646]

this is how a demonstration video should be made! thank you!

[@johnxisde]

just sane a question of mine, i can use my load at same time as i charge the battery? :)

[@405line]

Brilliant series of videos, really like the useful stuff you review and its nice to have someone reviewing practical everyday affordable stuff. I think you should not connect a load in parallel with B+/- that will not allow termination of the charge cycle because it will damage the cell, the requirement for the battery voltage maximum is very precise, and from what i can tell you could probably calibrate an everyday DNM using it as it as a voltage reference. Specs for all of the boards I have seen state cut off at 4.25v +/- 0.025V...I am basing the cut-off voltage from generic PCM boards sold on E-BAY. I am sure you are aware that there are PCM boards available that will allow a higher charging current. Keep up the good work

[@szatanizmo]

I got two of these and there's one thing about them that I don't like. The CC part of charging goes pretty well at about 0.9 A but when the cell reaches 4.2 V, it won't switch to CV. Blue led lights up indicating that charging is complete but it is obviously not. Any ideas on that? Also, as somebody has mentioned earlier, I don't like discharge voltage cut-off set at 2.5 V. Correct me if I'm wrong, but what we get with these two 'features' combined is under-charged and over-discharged cell that won't live long. Great YT channel by the way, keep it up!

[@bridgendesar]

If you change R3 to 33k, you can recharge rechargeable coin cells i.e. LIR 2032 (The "LIR" bit is important, it means lithium ion rechargeable). The 33k resistor limits the current, otherwise BOOM!

[@danielwilson4599]

I'd be interested to know when the updated version will be for the usb c pd charging platform. 6a amp usb c charging to lithium battery would be an interesting option. That way we might see a standardised plug 66w seems like it's pretty future proof for alot of things... They made the tp4056 8 years ago... I was thinking if this usb c takes off as I think it should we might see usb c laptops more common. Would be cool to have charging facilities standardized at 66w output per socket... Busses trains etc... It actually can make a difference. 5-15 min journey could mean 30-60% charge times while making a small commute

[@astcomjakecw]

By the way that's an MP1405 chip. They have the 2 protruding teeth at the battery terminals.

[@astcomjakecw]

I suspect Alice knows this and is using the TP because it's more well known and thus will get more hits, and since the chips are pretty much for the same purpose and have the same dimensions, it works out. I have one without the teeth and I'm curious if there really is a TP model like this, it doesn't have the teeth like this one does so I don't think it's the MP.

[@reyu128]

i've got the question, should it be very warm? i connected everything like you and its very hot, can't even touch it, any ideas?

[@andykay479]

The over-charge and over-discharge voltages on these devices is of concern to me... they result in deep cycling which reduces the battery life. I don't know why I can't find something like this that will give me shallow cycling.

[@Ziplock9000]

any luck?

[@FabriKzeiraDIY]

This is the best vídeo about tp4056 that I saw.. even to me as non english speaker

[@danmand]

Thanks for making these videos! One question though - in the video/datasheet it says that the overdischarge protection on this module kicks in at 2.4V... but isn't that getting a bit dangerously low? I've always been told never to take them much below 3V. I'd like to use this to automatically turn off my robot when the battery is running low, but I don't want to risk overdischarging...

[@Ziplock9000]

did u find out?

[@mnovo]

I think the chip also has a timer safety feature where it will turn off after and over extended charge timer like the good old 555 timer circuit.

[@JeffLewistennis]

Hello! Great vid! Curious what’s the minimum mAh lipo battery these boosters are able to still power a 5v sensor. I tried with a 120mAh and my sensor fades after a while. Thanks for your help!

[@martinlorenrd4073]

Already got one defected, output 3.8v instead 4.1v so do not charge battery fully. The chipset get hot and maybe loose calibration. Need an heater on main chip.

[@zaphodelektra960]

Nice one Julian! Looking forward to more on Lithium Ion batteries & chargers available for the hobbyist market.

[@GiovanniBalestrieri]

Thanks for the video. How should we handle the situation in which the load draws ~100 mA and the charging process never ends?

[@wooptoo]

Great review Julian! I see that the TP4056 has a TEMP pin. Have you tried connecting the TEMP pin to the third terminal (T) on a li-ion battery pack (like a phone battery) and test whether it works correctly? This would be extremely handy for creating safer devices.

[@kendrickxy1774]

WOW! Thanks so much! I bought 6 of them without even knowing the point of the the connectors OUT +/- ... Now thanks to you I understand that it's really useful because my batteries are protected! I have the older version, but I had a problem with these because it was charging my batteries until 4.1 volt and then it cuts off... So annoying. I'll use them for a project. Thanks to the OUT+/- It gonna be easier to make the circuit!

[@vishwanathballurgi4443]

There are many videos of single cell charging. What about cell packings of 12 volts and more? It is requested to release these videos with circuit and load details.

[@elvisrazem3189]

Very useful. I haven t been sure about protection. so at 2 and something Volts disconnets the load

[@RobertShaverOfAustin]

What I'm wondering is how do multi-cell battery chargers keep the cells balanced? I was thinking there would have to have a charging circuit for each cell. You could use a TP4056 on each cell but that would require an isolated power source for each cell. I'm pretty sure that's not how it's done but do you know just how it is really done?

[@TroyBaverstock]

+Robert Shaver I too am wanting to do this with up to 6S and charging while drawing a load. My initial experiments are yielding mixed results and i think i need isolation somewhere.

[@mainfra]

Hi Juliet, I did the reverse engineering of this circuit. Because a strange effect when I connect the battery to B+ and B- and the load to out+ and - In fact, if I'm not wrong, the terminal B- and out- are switched on this little board (instead B+ and out+ are correctly shorted) The strange effect I got is that if you put a switch just after the positive of the battery, you need to turn the circuit on twice. Otherwise the load is not powered on. Please let me know what do you think.

[@mainfra]

Hi anyone, could you help on this matter?

[@KennethTanFotografie]

Julian, I have a test-setup with two 18650 in parallel. They charge fine, but the TP4056 gets pretty warm. Can I use it for parallel charging multiple 18650's? I'm guessing the max output remains 1A, and only the charging time will be multiplied by the number of batteries. Is that correct?

[@KennethTanFotografie]

Kenneth Tan I've now been using these boards for over 7 months, they work fine, but of the 10 I've used, 2 burned out. In both cases the ML8205A mosfets overheated and I had to pull the batteries out of the charger. I could smell it burning. Both burnouts occurred on older boards. The latest boards I've bought, look the same, but have blue a blue status led if the board has finished charging. One burnout occurred @first use. The last one happened yesterday after over 100 charge cycles.

[@MartinMajewskinet]

I still don't understand what the protection circuit does. The charger quits the charging at 4,2V anyway, doesn't it? Having a light load connected to the circuit will start draining the battery and eventually destroys it due to undercharging, because 2,5V is way too low for an LiI-Io battery. Inside the specification document your are warned not to connect a load while charging, so the setup in this video is incorrect anyway. But not having a load connected to the circuit while charging makes the whole protection thing obsolete... I am totally confused 😕

[@sundrak1]

Great video and so clearly explained and nice voice to listen to as well, keep up the great work!

[@fumezflori]

+Julian Ilett Hello. Do you consider that can be used for bottom balancing the 18650 cells? could be used as for lowering a set of batteries prior put them in pack?

[@rooshio1]

At 11:10 you mention that a small load may fool the board into not terminating the charge, resulting in over-charging. Does this mean the new version of this board can accomplish load sharing? Or would you need to supplement this board with a schottky diode and Pmosfet to safely charge the battery with a load on the circuit?

[@FratCan]

Hi Julian, This circuit is suitable for high-current 3.7-volt batteries, It is automatically terminates charging when the battery is full ? So cheap chargers do not fill the high-current batteries

[@kmpres534]

Very interesting and a very clear description, thanks! Is it possible to raise the charge turn-on voltage on this board to something closer to 3.0 volts?

[@ChristakyMe]

This circuit board does both charge management and battery management...but only supplies 1AMP. I have 4 18650's in parallel and don't want to wait 10 hours for them to charge. Is there a high amperage version of this circuit board? Can I wire two TP4056 boards together in parallel?

[@ioanacatrinei860]

I have a TP4056 circuit, version with Out+, Out-, B+ and B- output pins. If I have a load connected to OUT+, OUT-, 500 mA, and a battery connected to B+, B-, can this circuit to charge the battery and to power the load in the same time when it is connected to USB? I may to add to R3 an additional resistor to reduce the charging current to 300 mA value. The USB charger can deliver 5V/2A.

[@edwilliams9914]

Nice analysis. Clear to follow and see what works well and why but also clear to see where (and why) the overcharge problem might arise under load (which was how I planned to use it) so I'll have to watch out (or see if you did another video that explores it further) :-). Thanks!

[@rib180]

Notice on battery protection circuit, one MOSFET operates Drain to Source and other MOSFET operates Source to Drain? The diodes drop too much voltage for battery use.

[@mariogarabetov500]

Hello, did you manage to find a solution for the overcharge when charging with the module and delivering load above 100mA simultaneously ? I want to power my Arduino Uno and a servo using one 3.7v cell with a step-up voltage regulator by charging it with a solar panel. However, how I can overcome the issue of overcharging?

[@MarkWheels00]

I would like to know this as well

[@powelljohnklaus]

This chip causes a parasitic drain on the batteries. It will drain the battery down to 0.73V do not buy this chip.

[@brazilcreative1063]

Is this module used to charge cell phone battery?

[@DanieleGiorgino]

I was thinking of re-purposing an e-cig battery, this is perfect. Thanks!

[@propfella]

I wonder why it's not selling on the UK Ebay, it's definitely on the Aussie Ebay and most of the Chinese sellers pretending to be living in Australia and shipping from an Australian address often pretend to be in the UK and USA. Perhaps your Ebay has put it's foot down over this practice. I must admit there are a number of Chinese friends and relatives selling the goods from Chinese traders, but it seems not all their stock is available from here. This means it's all pot luck. Order two different items and one may be received within 3 or 4 days and the other in 3 or 4 weeks, if you're lucky.. I just purchased 12 x 4056 boards and they arrived today from an Aussie address. Very lucky. :-)

[@jwuethrich8385]

are the outs disconnected from the bat during charging? also have you tried linking the outs in series? guessing by the rest of the video (listening while doing other things) it would still require a few external fets to make a charger that individually charged the cells but allowed series output. Its not quite as good as an active balance but better than passive burn off at that point. also, out of curiosity, where is the shunt hiding for your current measurement on the scope?

[@mrobarton7192]

Great job on the video. What are you using for a shunt to display the current on your scope?

[@MCsCreations]

Question: the TP4056 limit the current (amps). It's killing me, because I need to drow 2amps... Is there a way to change it?

[@SocialWoodWorksTV]

Thanks for the info. Will this board charge a multiple cell pack? If so, what would I have to do to the board to achieve this? If not, what would I use to charge a multi-cell pack?

[@camerontechstuffs]

It depends, if you have all the batteries in parallel then it should work (depending on the amount of batteries). But if they were series the voltage would be too high.

[@kermets]

So the bulb is using the usb power when the battery is below 2.91 ? Now try make it work with 3 x tp4056 and 3 x 18650 to balance charge them and get 12.6 volts protected voltage across the 3 cells ? impossible I say

[@johndii2194]

Do you think two inputs and two outputs of two boards could be connected in series, Feed the series input with 10 volts then connect the outputs to two cells?

[@jp040759]

So based on what you have demonstrated. The protection circuitry uses power from the battery itself to monitor the voltage state of the battery voltage. Have you measured the standby current of the protection circuitry? So the self discharge of a protected cell sitting in a drawer is sure to be more than a non protected cell. Any thoughts or experimentation on this by chance? Might be an interesting video subject. Happy New Year.

[@beforebefore]

Powering a Load while charging... hmmm.... I suppose you could use a pair of diodes. One silicon diode with the anode from 5V Vin to the charger - cathode to the Load. Then a low Vf schottky diode with anode to the Battery+ and Cathode to the Load. If you have 5V input, you'll get about 4.3V to the load while the charger is powered. During Battery operation, with a 300mV Vf schottky between the battery and the Load, you'll get around 3.9V to the Load. There are "ideal rectifiers" these days... used as bypass diodes in solar panels. They aren't a real diode, but instead an active rectifier... but they require at least 100mA current to "turn on", but they only drop around 45mV !!

[@mikhail_z]

Hello, thanks for the video. BTW, how would you change the charging current on this new board? I've noticed 'R3' resistor similar to the one on the old board, but really unsure if this the right piece.

[@JulianIlett]

it's the resistor connected to pin 2 of the IC

[@enriquelaya]

If you were to supply this module with a solar cell. Is it required to include a diode like we do when charging a battery directly? Thanks again.

[@hooperwille]

I have the older version and noticed using capacitor it stops charging at dangerous voltage of 4.5V. If it was real li-ion battery the charger would destroy it. Is there any way to adjust cut off voltage on this board?

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

That's probably because a capacitor does not respond the same way as a lithium cell. The TP4056 tries to hold the voltage to 4.2V while in CV mode but it's still trying to charge what it thinks is a battery. Since it's actually feeding current to a capacitor, naturally the voltage keeps on rising. TL;DR: Use an 18650 and it will work right.

[@lukaszM46]

is there any advantage of using this module with a LiPo battery that itself has built in protection circuitry? I would like to use this in a circuit where there is a load (which can be turned off with a switch) constantly connected to the battery with this charging module. You showed at the end of this video that when using the older module, you add a load while charging, it will never complete the charge, as the blue LED turned red right away when you connected the resistors. Will the new board allow me to charge the battery properly and safely while powering the load circuit as well?

[@jetstreamvelocity]

Could this be given an input from a solar panel (having a 5V USB output) on the micro-USB connector, with a USB powerbank connected to the output of the TP4056 module to have a setup where a discharge of the powerbank is prevented when the solar panel is not producing sufficient power? i.e. a setup where the solar panel charges the powerbank when it can generate sufficient power but the TP4056 prevents discharge of the powerbank when the solar panel output begins to drop when the light begins to fade due to clouds / sunset.

[@jimparr01Utube]

Appreciate the clear video Julian. I wonder if you would do me a favour - that all vendors of this module do not ... I am reduced to making guesses as to the footprint for fitting to a prototype PCB while waiting for a few of the new module to arrive (with battery protection). I expect the normal DIY 0.1" pitch is what it is - making the 4 outside holes 0.8" X & 0.5" Y. Two battery termination holes 0.3" separation? PCB size ~ 26x17mm? Thanks in advance if you can do this. Cheers, Jim Parr

[@spicajames]

+Julian Ilett Did you ever finish testing about the ~100mA load always connected while charging?

[@mberlinger3]

I have this module but I was wondering the best way to add reverse battery protection? I think a diode would cause too much voltage drop and cause the batteries to get harmed.

[@renxula]

Isn't it rather mad that the battery protection circuit also prevents charging it when the battery is at less than 2.91V?

[@Electricsrb]

Hi, could i wire a couple of these in parallel to get a higher charge current? And to make a bigger battery pack could I wire inputs in parallel and each output for a separate cell in the pack to balance the charge correctly? Thanks for the answer!

[@BajanAlan]

Hi Julian I tried to charge an 18650 backwards using new TP4056. Charger blew up but battery was ok. Also when replacing a cell in the charger it seems like you have to switch off charger for it to register.

[@ablock3002]

is it unsafe to charge the batteries with the module that doesnt have protection modules on it? I thought the TP4056 terminates the voltage once the current reaches C/10 and has under voltage lockout?

[@jorenmartijn]

I ordered some of the ones without protection but I need to double check. These work with FLAT lipo batteries like the ones Adafruit uses in a lot of their projects, right? They are at 3,7V at around 200 to 300 mAh. I also have a bigger one but I forgot how many mAh it was. They also have their own protection components so I don't need it on the charger board.

[@JulianIlett]

jorenmartijn That's fine. But remember to set the correct current

[@diydsolar]

Hi Julian, there is a huge dropout voltaje between output and bat pins in these boards with TP4056 and protecction circuit. I think is because of F8205A's mosfets' reserve diodes. Have you noticed this?regards

[@ashuntu2010]

Nice video.. Could you please let me know what would happen if I connect the input of the charger module to a solar panel instead of USB 5v supply and if the voltage drops, which is normal with solar panels due to low sun shine. In this case will there be any harm? will the lithium ion battery connected will discharge?

[@edgemaker11]

I'm using the board with the battery protection IC to charge a Li-Ion battery which hasn't got a BP built in. The problems is that the setup charges the battery just fine, However the battery seems to drain beyond ~2.5V cutoff and drains to about 1V. The BP PCB is soldered to the battery in a permanent configuration. Have you experienced a similar issue.

[@D00MLOORD]

+edgemaker11 Sounds defective. Is the polarity correct?

[@edgemaker11]

+Spritt Sprangande It was actually a defective one. I had a spare to compare against and the spare one works just fine. Thanks.

[@PIXscotland]

I'm using a these boards for home build powerbanks and they work well for the charge section. One problem I do have is that I've just built a powerbank with a known 20Ah rating using 18650's. The bank is great, but the charge time quite obviously sucks. Do you know of any of these circuits that have external transistor drive capabilities? Charging the 20Ah battery takes about 30 hours due to the reduction in current when going into CV mode. I'd love to be able to get a charge current of about +-5Ah for this pack (+-30% of capacity of each cell) Thanks.

[@mgobluevictor]

I know this is a pretty old video, but how did you configure your scope to show the voltage like that? (Sort of a chart plotter function, for lack of a better description).

[@petrovski1948]

Hi Julian, I have 2 x 18650 protected cells (new) and want to use them with the TP4056 boards. I’ve already ordered TP4056 with the protection circuitry built in and it struck me that my batteries are already protected. I assume I need to order the older boards with no protection circuitry to charge my protected batteries. It’s probably a stupid question but I thought I’d ask the expert first. Thanks in advance.

[@MrBrymstond]

@ 12:05 that's fine for charging but what about it when the unprotected battery is hooked up to a device and draws to much current and the voltage drops to low and you're running these in a series?

[@kcarmical]

Thanks for the informative video. Do you know if this would be an acceptable charger for the newer Li-Iron Phosphate cells? They seem quite promising.

[@roidroid]

+Kevin Carmical no, the voltage is different.

[@javiermartingarcia3405]

If you use it for a mobile phone... there's anyway to activate too the usb data transfer when you connect it to PC or it's only for battery charge??

[@AlbinGjoka94]

i want to use this for a Raspberry pi b+ project, can i use this to charge a battery and use the raspberry pi at the same moment ?

[@YO2LYP]

+Albin Gjoka I built a circuit with a microcontroller and other devices to run on 3.3V from a Lithium battery. My idea was to use this cheap charger module TP4056 from this video to charge the Lithium battery from a micro USB charger. The problem I found is that when I connect the micro USB charger to the circuit, the voltage at the Lithium battery is the charging voltage, 4.2 V, also discussed in this clip (check at minute 6:50), so I am afraid not to burn my circuit using this setup. Therefore definitely something else needs to be there, maybe you can go and use a step-up converter to take Lithium voltage up to 5V and to power your RPi from there, I won't recommend directly from the Lithum battery when Lithium battery is connected at the charger module TP4056. Any better ideas are welcome, I did not find a way to fix my setup, thanks!

[@croydon21H]

Hi, so I can use TP4056 to charge 18650 and from output, I can use a switch and supply to terminal blocks of a motor driver and make the device recargeable?

[@ljl451]

Hello, is it possible to leave the load always connected (even while charging)?

[@ptmoy1]

If I connect a boost converter to the out terminals of this charger and step voltage up to 5V, then use the output of the boost converter to power a Raspberry Pi, do you think the setup can function as a cheap 1-cell UPS for the Pi?

[@cottsak]

Does this mean that the new board supports "pass through" charging? Or did the old one do that already?

[@TheSharkey22]

Do your boards display a solid blue LED with the red LED flashing rapidly when ONLY the USB supply is connected. I cannot see in the video. I connected a battery (unprotected type) with reverse polarity now mine shows a solid blue LED. I am surprised that reverse polarity protection is not a feature on the board....Can my board be reset or is it for the bin??

[@jonnywaselectric]

nice little chip. I have protected cells and the length is an issue, are there longer DIY holders? I use my smart charger and set to lion which terminates at 4.1v per cell, these modules are set for lipo not lion, I imagine it will shorten the battery cycles as I think all the 18650 I have come across are lion chemistry.

[@tfkoincognito]

jonnywaselectric there are a few lithium polymer 18650's out there mostly in the vaping world.

[@chris6403]

Can I put in series the output of two or three of these TP4056 boards? My goal is to charge five 18650's. If I use one TP4056 with all five cells in parallel it will take approximately 15 hours to fully charge. If each battery has its own TP4056 I can cut down the charge time to 3 hours...but then how do I connect the output? If the outputs of the five TP4056 are connected in parallel I foresee a problem with balancing when discharging...but in series each cell will have its own separate protection. Is this correct? Can I connect the output of several TP4056's in series?

[@meoairanalytics]

+Julian Ilett Hi. I am looking to use 3.7V 18650 2600 mAh embedded for my project (device measuring parameters). When the device is connected to the power socket (thru 5V usb connector), it would recharge the battery as well as power the device (consuming 250 mA continuously). Once power socket is not connected, device would run from battery. What additional setup shoud I look for ? Thanks

[@STONEDay]

Great videos! Do I need a blocking diode if (4.5-5.5v) solar panels are used?

[@karzygijose]

Now how about charging trough USB from a 18650 at more amps? how would one go about making a 10x18650 portable battery charger?

[@PrimeToolbox]

Can i associate the outputs of these TP4056 - about 6 batteries - in parallel and use a step-up voltage regulator to obtain 5V?

[@farmlandtiger1377]

yes

[@keylitho]

I got a few of these that I am trying to use in a portable solar project.. Can you tell me the Minimum input voltage and current that this thing will work properly on..? I know the data sheet says 3-6v but what is the min current..

[@keylitho]

+Davids Electronics how about the input current..?

[@carlhauschke6798]

Are there any PCB that only have the protection function? So I can transform a unprotected cell into a protected one.

[@lukaszM46]

Dear Julian Is this little module able to safely charge a rechargable button cell like the LIR2032 for example? If not, what modifications would need to be done to it? Also, do you think the protection components are doing a good job at what they are supposed to do? Thanks! and btw your videos are great! excellent source of information!

[@davidvukovic]

Julian, I would like to run a Tennsy with a temperature probe and a NFR24 wireless module. I would like to know how to figure how much battery and solar panel I need to run this setup. As the probes need to run 24/7 can the charge circuit run the tennsy and charge the battery at the same time, then switch to battery when the sun goes down? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[@hermanvanopdorp5044]

Great video Julian, but I have a question. as you mentioned the DW01 is a battery management IC, but so is the TP4056. can you tell me what the TP4056 does on this particular board. I want to build a single battery charger for my Winston WB-LYP40AHA cell with a charge current of +/- 6A. thanks in advance.

[@JulianIlett]

The DW01 is a cell protection IC whereas the TP4056 is a cell charger IC

[@consig1iere294]

Hi Julian, I am planning to make a large power bank to charge my tablet. How many batteries and of what type can I add to this to be safe and get the optimum power. Thanks.

[@stevemcmechan6444]

Hey Julian, great video. Is there any simple / cheap dc-dc boost buck converter so that you can easily add on some lithium 18650 battery storage onto an existing lead acid solar storage system that you can recommend? I was thinking you'd need some sort of bi-directional boost-buck dc-dc system in order to be able to use the lithium batteries at their ideal voltage range between 3v-4v. Maybe 2 seperate circuits may have to be used if bi-directional is not readily available affordably?