NEWHAVEN - The Scottish Fishing Village That Was Gutted

Newhaven, once a small fishing village close to Edinburgh and adjoining Leith by the Firth of Forth. In the early 16th century King James IV decided it would be a prime location for a Royal Dockyard, and the first ship built and launched was 'The Great Michael', then the largest warship ever built.
Newhaven prospered as a fishing village and Royal Dockyard, but the residents of this small village had always been different, very different, to folk in other areas by the Forth, and indeed anywhere else in Scotland. The population may have been made up of Dutch immigrants, or perhaps folk from various countries brought in to build the biggest ships ever. They kept themselves to themselves, rarely married outwith the village, and the women were occasionally dressed in a manner that didn't seem Scottish. Newhaven was a very special place, and photographers from as early as the mid-nineteenth century flocked to the village to capture images of those pretty fishwives.
Today, Newhaven still feels like a very special place, a village that is different to Leith or any other part of Edinburgh. Although it lacks the scenic architecture of the likes of Dean Village, it is similarly special, and has managed, through thick and thin, to retain its original character. Just how it has managed to do this is pretty astonishing given that much of the village was demolished in the 1960s and 70s as Edinburgh Council sought to remove what had become an area of slums.
If you can see past the rather bland modern housing that is unsympathetic to the character of the village, and embrace the occasional old remaining building and general feel of the place, you will find Newhaven to be a quite remarkable survivor, and believe me, it was very lucky to survive in any shape or form, and this time we can't blame town planners.

[@matildamartin2811]

When I was a child in the thirties living in the High Street Edinburgh, the Newhaven fishwife used to sit in full dress at the top of St. Mary’s St. on a Saturday afternoon and sell dishes of mussels and pokes of ( Buckie’s ) she supplied you with a pin to pick the seal off. She carried her wares in a basket ( creel ) on her back, with the strap on her head.

[@EdExploresScotland]

I can't imagine they carried ice around in their creels, so selling fish and seafood in summer must have been difficult.

[@brycehermon5939]

Very interesting. Thanks for braving the cold to bring us a taste of history.

[@1964biggmark]

another well researched look at old Scotland 😁

[@annhinrichs5587]

Eddy, Thank you for braving the bitter cold to provide another informative ,outstanding presentation. Your original musical scores are superb. Stay well and warm! Happy Holidays and the Very Best of New Years to you

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Ann. After a few beers at the end of the video I managed to get trapped inside the maze of tram-works between Newhaven and Leith and had to be rescued by a kind workman with a key to a gate.

[@colinblack7049]

Hi Ed, you need to get yourself a pair of gloves if you're going to be wandering in the cauld. But your selfless effort is much appreciated, thanks for the education and research.

[@EdExploresScotland]

I had gloves with me but they just get in the way when you're fiddling with a camera.

[@colinblack7049]

Aye Ed, gloves are great for keeping your hands warm, but if you want to do anything, it's gloves on, gloves off.

[@vermeerofdelftscotlandwalk3294]

Its very interesting to see the old photos with the buildings and people in them. Its a pity about the bland modern houses. In the 1960s there was a plan to demolish all the old buildings on Princes Street in Edinburgh. It was called the Abercrombie scheme. It had a lucky escape from being changed into bland and characterless 60s buildings. Such an idea would be unthinkable now, thankfully.

[@matildamartin2811]

They were going to do the same with the Canongate Edinburgh and were stopped in their tracks when they found a covered walkway that had been bricked in and realised in time, what they had nearly ruined.

[@redpilledpict2747]

@@matildamartin2811 In the late 1960's there were plans to build a motorway past The Pleasance ,through St.Mary's Street and along Princes Street. I remember talking to someone who was involved in stopping that madness. The same kind of planning lunatics wanted to demolish the whole of Central Glasgow.

[@petekadenz2466]

Fascinating video. Thank you!

[@duneideann9241]

Aye it’s cauld 🥶. I remember going a long to Newhaven a lot in the late 60’s . As you say it had as different feeling to it compared to anywhere else. Another great and interesting vlog

[@georgerenton965]

Hello Ed. Enjoying your channel. My dad was a lorry driver, and ran predominantly fresh fish from the Newhaven, Granton area trawler owners. At one point we worked for David Dow, who had a business just to the east of the original Newhaven fish market. This would be the early to mid 60’s. At that time right behind where your having a pint there was a cafe that catered to the drivers, fishermen, and market workers. I’d be in their in the early mornings with my dad and the place would be a veritable beehive of activity, with lots of fun banter between the customers, and the women who where working in the cafe. I’m sure everyone was local, and there where close family ties. Interestingly enough where the Old Ship Inn was, that was bare ground with foundation walls. Dad would park his lorry there when at the office. The fish market was a going concern then. this was before the front half was taken over by Harry …… fish and chip business was around. I was down there a few years ago with my uncle Frank, and cousin Bob Roger having a pint down the road at the Anfield Bar. They’re both gone now and I miss their history lessons. My dad worked with many local men from Newhaven. He was a from Leith. We lived out in Joppa then. He was from Bangor Rd, and later Bonnington Rd. Mom sister was on India Place up by Saunders St in Stockbridge. Dean Village was a nice we walk up the Water of Leith from there. Keep up the good work, put yer bonnet on or y’ll catch yer death. Here in southern Ontario Canada it’s a balmy -9 and snowing.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks George.

[@NeilFH]

predominantly fresh? were some of them not fresh then? 😸

[@georgerenton965]

@@NeilFH Hi, Neil. Fresh as in never frozen. The catch was stored in crushed ice with pen boards to compartmentalize by species, and or size. For many years now I believe the catch is flash frozen at sea, but I get your drift 😄. In those days, the fish was packed in heavy duty reusable wooden boxes, that had the fishing companies initials, or logo on the box ends where the hand holes, or rope handles. When the Captain, or mate called in their “ Hale “ the description of what the catch was made up of, including sizes to their agent, he would offer catch to wholesalers. The catch would then be hand packed into the boxes at dockside down in the fish hold. Background here. The day the trawler would arrive it would be met with a fleet of lorries. Some would have washed clean boxes, some lorries would have been to an ice house and be loaded with large burlap sacks filled with crushed ice. The ice would be poured from the sacks down a Shute into the hold, followed by empty boxes. The agents had passed down the customer order tickets, and the crew would hand pack the fish into the boxes with the ice. Once a substantial amount was ready to be lifted out of the trawler, the lorries would be backed into a semicircle within reach of the trawler’s boom. As the box came up the ticket that indicated the buyer would determine which lorry the box was assigned to. A lorry might be destined for buyers in at Grimsby fish market, another to Hull, Glasgow, Leith and so on. Keep in mind these where open decked lorries, with no refrigeration, only ice covered with tarps, and an overnight run to their destination. Once the lorry was unloaded there, the driver would go to a fish box drop yard nearby where all the empty boxes where stored. The driver would pick up as many of his companies identified boxes as he could find, and make the return trip to his company’s yard where the boxes would be run through a wash rack in preparation for another trawler landing, and the cycle continues. There! Let that be a lesson tae yi Neil. 😅 That pretty much describes my childhood on summer holidays back in the day before North Sea Oil and refrigerated containerization. There were still lots of steam on the rails too.

[@salzburg18]

Harry's - that's brought back some memories! My grandparents lived in Newhaven and on the rare occasions I saw them I would go to Harry's.

[@avrilconacher]

Very enjoyable .In my teens we lived near Fishwives Causeway in Edinburgh which was named as it was part of their route into the centre of Edinburgh so the fishwives always interested me and my parents remembered them selling their wares .I enjoy the photographs of Hill and Adamson and when I saw your video was about Newhaven their images came to mind .I knew very little about the village so it was interesting to learn about its origins and to see some excellent images.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Avril.

[@dougieross1042]

Excellent Ed, the standard just keeps going up. The new Tam Weir! The Tourist Board should be weighing you in with a few bob!

[@MrDHCuthill]

You are doing fine work there, Ed. Many thanks.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers David.

[@paulcunninghamw00dlandph0t0]

Excellent video Eddie, another thing Newhaven is famous for is their pies. You may have seen a bakery called ‘Masons bakery’ they have the best pies in Edinburgh.

[@EdExploresScotland]

I missed that. I'll keep my eyes out for it next time I'm through.

[@lynnthomason6589]

Hi Eddy, Thank you for being a brave soul by getting out in that cold air. This video was wonderful. It’s amazing some of the things that should have been saved are no longer here. But we have our history and the archives to enjoy in their absence. I do hope you don’t ‘catch cold’, that’s what my Gramma would say! Merry Christmas🎄& Greetings for a blessed New Year. 🍀 Lynn in Naples FL 🤶

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Lynn. Thank goodness we have libraries and archives. All the best for the coming year.

[@neilbain8736]

16:39. A very interesting photo. There is so much reclaimed land since. When you filmed it, you were now on a main road with buses!

[@alanmarshall6218]

Enjoy seeing places I dont know. Find I am being entertained and informed. Ed you have a unique style and cheer us up on these cold days and also motivate me to get out there! Mainstreem media could be doing with you too.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Alan.

[@TheRocktalk]

Your historical videos are the best out there, Ed. Nobody it better.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you. Have a great 2023.

[@martinqualters608]

Another epic video mate, you are so good at this kind of content....I hope some day to meet you and buy you a pint of the good stuff, haha

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks.

[@petermcculloch663]

Enjoy your pint Ed, great video

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Peter, will do!

[@johnledingham852]

A video I'll be watching over and over again, Ed.

[@ianlindsay1454]

Well done Ed, another interesting and very enjoyable watch. Ian and Angie.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks guys.

[@davidjohnston4500]

Brilliant, I live very close to Newhaven and the Harbour Inn is my local. Some tremendous old photos, many thanks.

[@davidnorwich3771]

I can recommend if you want to read more history of Newhaven and Newhaven people that you read " Newhaven on Forth: Port of Grace by Tom McGowran."

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks.

[@astracash]

That was great, cheers Ed keep making these very interesting videos please.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you.

[@Urbexy]

Another great video Ed. I have always enjoyed your videos, but over the past year you have really upped the game in terms of image quality. Probably just experience? Like a long term learning process. You certainly put in the time when it comes to the research. Think I have only been to Newhaven once. Took a look around the former dock area where they have build the new flats. Massive contrast between old and modern. There was one huge omission in this video... Nae Pie 🙂 Nope all is well.

[@EdExploresScotland]

It was too cold for a pie, although someone recommended Mason's Bakery for superb pies, and I shall definitely check that bakery out. Thank you for your comment. You'll already know yourself that you improve with time. When I look back at my earlier video forays they look pretty naff. But uploading videos is an exciting thing to do. I suppose these days there's some pressure to do better and such like. I'm a perfectionist; I will always want to do better. Keeps me out the pub. (actually it doesn't.) Take care.

[@ToniLouttit]

Eddie , well done ! Hope you are going to make more , all the best , from a fan of Goverment Property ! That will take you back ,

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks. With mention of the band and Albert Street in a later comment, I feel I should know you. Give me a clue? What's your first name? My last memory of Albert Street was of being chucked out of a flea-infested flat. Whole building's now gone. Probably our fault.

[@scottjock]

Hi Ed. Another very interesting film. Its a shame that Newhaven now being the last stop on the tram doesn't have a sign pointing the way to the harbour.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Scott. After filming and a few beers, I managed to somehow wander inside the tramway construction and had to be escorted to safety by a workman.

[@jocky2]

Very very interesting video, Great to get some history of Scotland which I am sorely lacking. Great job pal.

[@simonlumsden6045]

Eddie, I love you content. Thank you so much for your videos.

[@charlesmair26]

Another good one ED.

[@bevygaines]

Love the video, hope you don't get sick!!!!

[@Born-N-brEdinburgh]

Thoroughly enjoyed this!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you.

[@martinstilton1535]

Fantastic video Eddie, these historic documentaries are a great watch! I still think the waterfront at Newhaven has some character. Go there regularly when I can brave a trip across town on the no. 7 bus!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks. Someone else mentioned Masons Bakery as a must-stop for pies in the village. Definitely worth a return visit.

[@lenaolivetti9366]

Thank you 🇺🇸

[@MargaretKeegan-gl7bz]

The ship was called the Great Michael.

[@hughoxford8735]

I don’t know if it’s still there but there was a model of it in ocean terminal a couple of years ago

[@stevenweir9367]

What the beer you were drinking it looked lovely

[@EdExploresScotland]

You know Steven, I can't remember, but I do remember it was a very good beer. Definitely a pub and an area worth a visit.

[@stevenweir9367]

@EdExploresScotland thanks for the replay Ed

[@nialloftheninedevils]

King James IV brought in Flemish shipwrights to build the Great Michael. My mother remembered the children referred to their mothers as 'ma mere' into the 1930s.

[@colinthomasson3948]

we can also see what appears to be a DoDo sitting on the Stone Pier Pub's South roof chimney pot , at about 17 mins. A rather remarkable sighting, evidence of that birds survivng unremarked in Newhaven Village long after supposed extinct in its native South Seas home island

[@petekadenz2466]

May I ask about your lovely Scots accent? Whereabouts were you brought up?

[@EdExploresScotland]

West central belt in Scotland, although perhaps not a typical accent for the area.

[@Oharadanny123abcdefg]

Cheers Ed. I note that Muirhead guidebook suggests Newhaven's fishing community was of Danish or Dutch origin. Whats the actual hard evidence of this?

[@EdExploresScotland]

I'm not sure, but I expect there's hard evidence somewhere in the historical record.

[@normanmcquade1703]

The three most common names in Newhaven was Flucker, Carnie and Colm

[@NeilFH]

There were indeed some very questionable developments in Edinburgh during the 60s /70s. Wester Hailes and Sighthill being one of them and the destruction of Leith /Newhaven /Granton being part of that. The St. James Mall was another absolute carbuncle that was criminally insane IMHO considering the historical nature of that whole area.

[@Oharadanny123abcdefg]

Totally agree anout St James. Is the modern Et James any better ? Will we look back in 50 years time and ask how come we have a golden jobbie in the new town of Edinburgh?

[@yetidodger6650]

I thought this was Newhaven in Sussex.

[@dougbod5086]

Well Newhaven is OK, yes the main street south side is a disappointment but the backs of these flats look ok, and compare the ( new ) Newhaven with the flats out towards Lighthouse Park beyond the harbour and I think the urban design of Newhaven is not so bad by comparison, but maybe people like the tatest design even if they are huge and somewhat impersonal.

[@williamwilliam5242]

🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@rayclarine793]

I was born in the old new lane then my parents got a council house in clermiston

[@snapon1948]

that's when Men were made of steel, ships were made Wood. women were triple breasted

[@hughoxford8735]

A policeman? What’s a policeman?

[@tonym08]

Brrrrill

[@laidbackmedia]

Ladies hawking their fish lol