Nice to get a decent one. Testing and inspecting electrical circuits. Cjrelectrical

Electrician testing and inspecting a customers property.
Few finds on this one!!!
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This video is for entertainment purposes only please dont try to copy or recreate this video in anyway. Do so at your own peril!!!

[@davidnorth1021]

Client here! Thanks for a good job, chaps, and sorry I got stuck in traffic and didn't get to meet you. Fun to see my place on KZbin! I can clear up one of the mysteries - the second load on the cooker switch is the spark for the hob; if you slide out the middle drawer underneath you can just about see the unswitched socket with it on. The metal lights in kitchen + bathrooms were there when I moved in (2014) but the lounge and the hallway (with quickwire connectors!) were all me. Sorry I scrawled hall sockets on the wrong side of the paperwork. Clearly I need to tighten up my connections a lot more when spreading USB sockets round the place, but as you saw, I've got loads of them so unlikely to do any more. Oh, and there is a fifth accessible socket in the kitchen [EDIT] which I can see from the report you must have found off-camera.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Thanks David I did indeed spot the socket behind the huge microwave off camera with the extension feeding the under cabinet music system.

[@imark7777777]

It’s interesting to have a customers perspective. 👍

[@ashmanelectricalservices4318]

Great video Chris, the only thing is the continuity test of the bonding conductors should be done with at least one of the ends disconnected otherwise you could in fact be reading a parallel path.

[@anthonybragg]

agree with the above, as don't forget with a combi boiler all the copper pipework is commoned up.

[@davidb3537]

Also agree with above, always a headache when you can't find the water bond end thanks to kitchen fitters who are unaware of its importance.

[@Live_Sparks]

Shouldnt u reconnect main earth and re test for pfc

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

11:27 cooker circuit - 1 feed into isolator switch, 1 feed out to oven and 1 feed out to hob/cook top... Assuming local Wiring Code allows that, that's how I'd wire it up.

[@meuk6929]

The second oven cable will go up and over to a connection plate behind the housing, the other will drop down to the hob. The norm for new build. Even if it is 13 years old. The isssue of the supply cable from the switch fuse. Im thinking that the rcd protection wasnt required back in the 16th edition?? Happy to be proved wrong as were all still learning

[@mcjjordan]

I was wondering if they discovered where it went?

[@imark7777777]

@@mcjjordan they did sort of, the client commented.

[@cg7179]

Been in the industry 30 years, JTL/JIB 5 yr apprenticeship, NIC qualifying manager JIB site tech etc, in another field now but always loved sparking, been watching a few of your videos reminiscing and can I just say that I’ve been around and worked with a lot of sparks and you stand out, you must of been taught by a real tradesman like me, your one of the best sparks I’ve seen! I would of enjoyed working with you, I honestly cannot fault you and you treat your apprentice really well ! You should be really proud of yourself !!!! 😉 much respect !

[@adamsharp201]

Nothing like blowing your own trumpet

[@andyr5332]

Im in the middle of doing my exams and you have gave me a lot of help you my friend are a star 😁

[@funhaus_crew]

Chris i always put a limitation for the main fuse as you cant be pulling it out to check it. As it could be anything in there

[@imark7777777]

But why would it matter what it is when it’s a copper pipe? Sarcasm fyi

[@callumBee]

You need to have a large magnet on the van to use and see if its attracted to the possible steel plate in the wall.

[@peterg.8245]

A light duty magnet fishing “hook” would work. Just remember a 600lb hold is only on thick plate steel and neodymium doesn’t like heat.

[@whatevernamegoeshere3644]

@@peterg.8245 Doesn't like heat but it's not gonna be seeing 200C any time soon in this use. Well. Hopefully.

[@MrEnixa]

The 100a on the cutout fuse is what the carrier is rated for, unless a sticker or writing is on top of the fuse carrier it’s anyone’s game to what fuse is actually in it

[@anthonybragg]

Chris, regarding the two outgoing load cables in the cooker switch probably one to the oven and socket for the hob. The flat was wired to a previous edition of the regulations where cables buried within 50mm of the wall surface were not required to have RCD supplementary protection.

[@haydenuk02]

Another amazing work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care

[@jwelectricalservices7344]

Anything built after 2000 wouldn’t have AIB boards in bud just a heads up I think you said it was built in 2007. Keep up the good work 🙌🏼

[@garethg2501]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge of the main tails, I had something similar recently. At the time I was more worried about the main earth been undersized

[@thedon7536]

I’ve see 3 bed houses 🏠 with less in a fuse board than this flat, was it a 10 bed split over 3 floors

[@AE-mu1jc]

3:23 Fun fact: Friedland is a german village at the old border of Western Germany and GDR. The combination of Friedland Transformator and Friedland ding-dong bell are cheap and widely used in the last fourty years in german houses. Friedland D780 in: 220 - 240 Volt out: 8 Volt / 1 Ampere They not listed more the orginal Friedland bell in the internet. 😕 Only a radio version.

[@samwebb1447]

On most big new build sites now NHBC would fail the pre plaster inspection if the tails or 16mm twin didn't have "additional protection". This has been the case for at least the last 10 years. But I agree better in SWA but on the new builds it comes down to price and time and it's much quicker to terminate 16mm twin!

[@tomorichard]

A 16MM tande is not fit for purpose for use as a submain where main bonding will be required

[@jahedul.H]

Always excited when I see you upload a video

[@SultansKitchen1]

Great video Chris, lovin the socks, excellent content, keep em videos coming.👍🏼 I'm doing my domestic & commercial electrical home study course & your videos are helping me a ton.😊

[@whatevernamegoeshere3644]

Lol reminds me of my boss. "Damn I wish there was someone here that's at least 190cm tall that could screw that box cover on for me without a ladder, you know anyone?"

[@gd-bq7em]

If the mains supply is 16mm twin and earth dose that not mean the cpc is under size because the bonding is running off it as well I always thought it was ok in 16mm twin and earth as long as bonding was before the twin and earth

[@tomorichard]

👍 most definitely in a pme system

[@tww5719]

Best to take your earth bonds cables off the clamps ,for continuity this stops outside influences,I did one because it was a job to run the bond cables they connected it to the mains and just poked a bit under the floor

[@tomorichard]

100 percent clamping the earth bar and probing earth wires doesn’t prove anything to be honest. Ie gas and water linked at boiler manifold

[@tww5719]

@@tomorichard that's how I see it,👍

[@Cjrelectrical]

Good shout but you can clearly see the under sink bond is not accessible without dismantling half the kitchen cupboard so better to test on the clamp than put a lim or NV. James now has a new job disconnecting all the bonding on the next ones.

[@tww5719]

@@Cjrelectrical the one under the sink I would of cut the cable ,tested it and if necessary fit a new earth clamp,but everyone to there own 👍

[@davidnorth1021]

Last time I had the back off that cupboard it took an entire evening of swearing and faffing to get it back on so definitely best left intact!

[@edglue6138]

Good video guys. Who does your eye brows Chris

[@MrSJT]

Did you not disconnect the main bonds to do your R2 to remove parallel paths and to identify which one is the actual bonding conductor?

[@imark7777777]

That smoke alarm must be a US manufacturer. we are required to have no junctions in the wall that are not accessible so if there’s a junction It has to come out to a box with a blank plate unless you’re going to use it for something. All lighting circuits will have a back box as well so there’s usually not enough room still to have wire junctions for lights, by the time you get the fixture up there and in the mounting bracket what looked like plenty of room goes down to nothing. So all our lighting fixtures have a few inches of wires hanging off the back that you will attach in the box and then everything is self-contained when the fixture is up. We also require a CPC / ground in all boxes but as we know those don’t always get continued continuity. I constantly find it interesting when you pull up floors and you find all those junctions as over, here that’s been classed as against code for a good while; it aids in troubleshooting as you know if there’s a fault between the two boxes it’s either going somewhere or it’s been nicked. I make these US comments because through the videos and comments on KZbin I became fascinated with UK wiring and other cultures electric. It’s interesting how we’ve adapted are codes and then started taking things from other peoples codes.

[@rafique470]

one question you are working on live cables area is that safe without shoes

[@garethg2501]

Them FireX are meant to be mounted onto another base, which houses the connector blocks. They are bought separately though so a lot of people don't realise this

[@davidnorth1021]

Indeed, I didn't realise - but at least I replaced the smoke alarm when it hit the ten years. Should have found an Aico to replace the original and slide onto the same plate!

[@garethg2501]

@@davidnorth1021 Yeah, Aico are great. Bit pricey though, but so much easier to install and change if faulty etc

[@SamMegadeth]

The fixing holes do line up for a dry liner box too, but it's a ballache. Like has already been said, just fork out for aico 😅

[@dangraves7808]

The new firex now have 2 neutrals on the connection lead so if the smoke head is changed and the existing lead only has 1neutral as shown in the video this will need changing or the battery will not charge and you will be getting a call back 👍

[@imark7777777]

I suspect that’s a US manufacture, we require all fixtures to have back boxes including smoke alarms. That is a separate item purchased during first fix usually, so when you go to put the smoke alarms up there’s already an enclosure for them. But global market place and all.... they probably just re-purposed the design and change the electronics a little one slapped them in the UK label box.

[@mintsauce563]

Hi Chris have they run a separate 10/16mm earth down or just using the 6242y 6mm cpc as that's adequate for the circuit but not for the 10mm bonds back to the service head and 25mm supply tails

[@frazer26]

Just to let you know this video only showed up in my home page and not subscribe page and only showed up 24 hours after you posted. Looking at the other comments times, looks like im not the only one

[@imark7777777]

2:10 client has USB sockets, iPad proceeds to be plugged in to a secondary charger ???? So what’s the point? Of USB sockets?

[@WooShell]

Creative LED strip mounting..

[@davidnorth1021]

Nearly super glued my hands together when I used that so blu tack seemed safer for the last bit...

[@XStrikeSuper]

Currently, I have an old consumer unit under the stair which is mounted on the wooden panels. To install a new consumer unit (Fusebox brand), does it need to be mounted on the Flame Retardant board?

[@carlton683]

Hi mate I found the socks on Amazon thanks and happy Xmas

[@johnwaby4321]

I would have put a C2 for those smoke alarm candles with the connectors not been enclosed . Or did you fit a new smoke with a base . You can get a connection base for the firex smoke alarms . 👍

[@petertallowin6406]

Is it not permitted to IR test L+N/E anymore? Saves a truck load of hassle with connected loads.......

[@StealthSpark312]

Yes it is, just needs to be recorded down on the EICR as a limitation.

[@Kse1010]

Good video as always 👌

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

In the kitchen, I saw what looked like a water heater mounted on the wall between the cupboards and the window. Could that be the immersion circuit?

[@davidnorth1021]

No, it's a combi boiler like the man said. Immersion and tank were removed when it was installed, seemed overkill for a flat.

[@doctorelectric470]

Good video Chris, hope to catch up with you one day at a trade show somewhere

[@qwertycat741]

I wonder if that bell wire bit was directed at someone...

[@benbradbury3665]

That job was not artisan.

[@trevornelmes9331]

I notice that the 'internal to the consumer unit' 25mm2 is only single insulated, yes? I assume that is normal?

[@brightsideofsaturn]

Did you find out where the second load wires go from the oven isolator

[@Stoorie85]

i am only 13min into the video but i would guess it would go to an unswitched spur for the hob ?!?

[@brightsideofsaturn]

@@Stoorie85 yeah i also immediately thought that it would be for the hob

[@imark7777777]

Confirmed igniter, client comment.

[@tomorichard]

What did you code that bonding conductors are connected via a marshalling terminal that is supplied via a undersized cpc in relation to min sized bonding conductors in a PME system? Was the sup bonding present in the special location? As no additional protection was afforded to circuits serving a special location in the form of a 30ma rcd?

[@alunroberts1439]

Looking at USB sockets why don't make them so they only come on if the socket is switched on. Been looking for some that do on line not seen any yet. Asking that I test with socket switched on as had some in caff that had grease in. When it got worm there was tripping it was under out of sight. Still don't trust them in my house have a switched lead I kill going to bed or going out. And if 3 million have them all on all the power there always saying unplug the phone charger to save energy and now sell them to be hard fitted and stay on all pulling milliamps.

[@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_you]

Maybe its just me...... but the requirement for the sub main incomer to be in an armoured just makes "common sense"..... if the only protection that can be provided is overcurrent then it deserves proper protection. Of course if there was evidence of steel plating protection thats different, but you were confident that wasnt the case. I totally think from a "layman, non spark" perspective your initial assessment, backed up by NIC, just makes "sense" purely from a safety perspective....

[@RaithUK]

Good video guys keep it up.

[@popsquashgaming9463]

What the sense of putting on the mask at the end when he didn't at first enter the vehicle 😀😀🙃

[@Dewalt94]

Because they had just been with the client

[@Swa33er]

@@Dewalt94 I wondered this, because the client said he was stuck in traffic and didn't actually get to meet them>? I'd like to know the meaning behind wearing the mask AFTER the job too. I'm sure there's a reason behind it

[@imark7777777]

I’m getting the impression this is an apartment type complex so once they left they were in a public space with more than just themselves. Considering they work together I would consider them as a group unless like a family group which wouldn’t necessarily have to wear masks in their own home. But then again we have people who think this doesn’t exist and it’s just a big lie from the US government..... Unfortunately I think that there are people out there that believe the mask is all they have to do to protect themselves, and my point was proven by the state that had 100% mask wearing and yet spite recently.

[@michellefoster1020]

On the EasyCert it’s asking me for serial number before you will activate the account any idea

[@rabmc]

What’s your thoughts on the usb sockets in general? Are they Worth changing too or more hassle than their worth.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Don’t mind one or two but more than that and they become a pain

[@rabmc]

@@Cjrelectrical Thanks ✊🏻❤️

[@simonparkinson1053]

Flippin' BG, PITA to get both conductors to be securely held in the terminal. Plus so many devices require intelligent chargers these days or will only charge at 500mA so not worth fitting anymore

[@rabmc]

@@simonparkinson1053 Thanks Simon, I’ve rewired my upstairs sockets and lighting and downstairs lighting in the last few weeks, plastering and fitting out and been thinking of putting in the usb ones but think I will just go the normal socket route.

[@simonparkinson1053]

@@rabmc they are a very nice idea but in practice don't work out that well. Now USB-C is becoming the norm, time for the manufacturers to make a new version which fully complies and will actually charge all devices properly....and including a DP switch both for ease of testing and so it doesn't have to be permanently on.

[@cliffedwards9472]

With the sub main being 16.00 mm the cpc may not be appropriate for that installation. Also protective earth bonding conductors 10mm need to go back to the MET . It’s a definitely a no no using 16.00mm T& E these tails,it just doesn’t fit the bill. Nice video though...

[@davey6024]

FI for higher than expected r2 ring final reading? I usually C3 it unless the client is willing to pay for fault finding.

[@Nick_Carlos]

Maybe so i use to work somewhere where the r2 having an higher reading we would C2 it and rectify however where I work now they don't see it as an C2 as long as all Zs readings are correct. If line or neutral readings are inconsistent that would be a different story I'm not sure about the whole r2 thing I guess its open to the assessors interpretation.

[@deanwaters]

Hey has anyone told you ,you have great looking socks

[@titmando1199]

"Last video I said the wrong one on purpose" - if I had a £1 every time a boss said that to me, I'd have no money, as I haven't had a boss say that to me...

[@timparsons3087]

Quick Question what code did you put for provision of additional protection RCD for Cables concealed in walls at a depth less than 50mm 522.6.202 and .203. As there was only RCD for sockets only. Would be great full for answer.

[@Cjrelectrical]

C3 some would code it as a C2 which I believe is incorrect and is looking to force the client into a consumer unit change.

[@davidb3537]

NAPIT code breakers has this as a C2, doesn't always mean a CU change as it may be possible to change the MCBs to RCBOs. The inspecting engineer has to use discretion as to whether end user safety would benefit from this improvement. If I give a C2 for this I always reference Napit code breakers and the relevant page.

[@timparsons3087]

Many Thanks for your answers. I code it C3 unless there is a dangerous situation, I also put a attached document to the report highly recommending installing RCBO.

[@davidb3537]

The problem with EICRs is the more thorough your observations the longer it takes, its very difficult to be as thorough as you'd always like given the cost constraints. Napit apparently have recently redesigned their online certification for EICRs so coding is linked to their code breaker guide not sure how this works but sounds time saving.

[@adamsharp201]

Classic 16mm twin and earth?!!! Really

[@terryleaman3038]

So where did the 2nd load go??

[@AndyK.1]

Hob igniter.

[@terryleaman3038]

Andy K thought so

[@MrDamodee]

I liked that socket in the kitchen which had the multiple switches for the appliances wouldn't mind that in my kitchen. Never seen them before??

[@davidnorth1021]

It's a grid switch, made by Deta. Seems to be standard issue on the newer builds, and this one includes a slot for the fuse for the cooker hood (since it's wired in and not on a plug top like the other two appliances). The only problem with the lovely switches with appliance names stamped on them is that the builders had them in the wrong order (another thing I sorted when I moved in!)

[@MrDamodee]

@@davidnorth1021 thanks David much appreciated!

[@imark7777777]

There are a few different companies making grid systems, from the various videos I’ve watched they’re great for anything with small conductor cabling to give that clean look. But for the cooker bringing those giant cables in to the spaghetti gets crazy.

[@johnoreilly7052]

Chris can you please get James a pair of pink socks 🧦

[@zjzozn]

Great vlog & good guy - have you only just qualified having to call tech support often? 🤓

[@Cjrelectrical]

Qualified? What’s that

[@Swa33er]

@@Cjrelectrical In this game every day is a school day, if you aren't willing to learn something new on a daily basis you wouldn't be one of the best.

[@paulhalgarth1164]

USB socket with a USB charger plugged in, standard.

[@jondonnelly3]

USB sockets deliver like 1/4 of the power of that walwart. 1 hour charge or 4 hours, what would you do?

[@imark7777777]

Yes Everybody rushed out and put those 2.1a well plates in and then all the devices went to requiring higher power and then they went to quick charge and then they went to power delivery and now USB-c. yeah I’d much rather have a standard outlet and plug-in a multi port charger.

[@mrgfromoxford8644]

Did an EICR yesterday and metal fuseboard had line and neutral through separate holes !!! Eddy currents obviously the problem, but what code is it ? Any ideas ?

[@Cjrelectrical]

No sign of thermal damage c3

[@mrgfromoxford8644]

CJR ELECTRICAL Thanks Chris . Do you know if you can use iCertifi if your only a domestic installer with NIC EIC ? Or do I need to go fully approved?

[@williammartinculleton7523]

Mr G From oxford Doubt if eddy currents will ever create a problem .

[@adamsharp201]

Bathroom lighting should be rcd protected

[@Liberator975]

Should the output for the bell be in black and red to denote a DC circuit

[@simonparkinson1053]

That model is just a transformer, so 8V AC output. As it's not earth referenced, the blue isn't a "neutral" so should be sleeved black if you're being really pedantic. For DC it would be brown and grey to current standards.

[@julianmair3047]

Hi Dave the secondary output of the transformer is AC, most door bell transformers do not have any built in rectification,

[@Liberator975]

Thanks guys 👍

[@alanrolfe218]

State of that board

[@justme5384]

19:07 is that a water droplet or flux?

[@imark7777777]

That’s gonna be a solder droplet, had to look at it three or four times as light was hitting it just right that it looks almost clear. That’s kind of sloppy oh wait jointed copper gas piping in the UK we don’t do that in the US very reassuring.

[@michealplater9007]

Why do you switch the neutral

[@imark7777777]

The neutral is considered a semi hot so there is generally a main isolator that breaks both. I suspect this goes back to the standards before they had a color-coded neutral. Where it would’ve been very easy to swap it and not have an issue until somebody went to work on it and thought it was off.

[@michealplater9007]

Thanks for that, it's something is austraila that we don't do

[@alexg113]

Can someone explain why you can’t have a 100a 100ma time delay rcd as main switch and a 63a mcb to feed flat?

[@tomorichard]

You could if you wanted but a 100ma S type would not offer the protection “additional” that Chris is concerned about. Only a rcd with a rating of 30ma can do that, fitting one at the origin would arguably make more problems than exist already. I think a good way of thinking about it is anything other that a 30ma is intended to offer fault protection where a max ZS can not be achieved thus a rcd is required to clear a earth fault because a over current protective device cannot do so.

[@alexg113]

Thanks

[@ShadowzGSD]

pause at 2:10 the ironry, DOH

[@imark7777777]

I know those USB sockets and yet. Although give a few years and will be doing it again with USB-c charger‘s and then when those get replaced by wall sockets will be repeating because I’m sure the wall sockets will be under rated as well because the upgrade the power capacity of USB-C 2.0.....

[@robswingler]

Isn’t the earth only 6mm in 16mm T&E ? It would need to be min 10mm to meet the bonding requirements for pme.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Yeah that’s a good shout. I did notice this also but in the other riser cupboard where the services technically enter the building they have installed some additional 10mm bonding conductors to the water and gas.

[@SeanDerwin1979]

Door Bowel.

[@jondonnelly3]

Those usb sockets are already obsolete. Won't charge worth a fuk and no USB C. Blow them up :D

[@imark7777777]

I think this is the fourth or fifth comment. yes I much rather have a dedicated external multi port charger and a standard wall socket. Although they are nice for some things like low power USB lights etc.

[@davidnorth1021]

I charge phones tablets and Kindle from them overnight and they work fine for that. Big Clive did a teardown on these BG ones and the contents are quite solid.

[@philburt52]

If you record FIs I thought that the certificate would be unsatisfactory

[@tomorichard]

Yes it should be 👍

[@Cjrelectrical]

No FI

[@illegalfreedom1055]

If the house was 2007. It shouldn’t have aib right???

[@davidnorth1021]

That panel was added in 2015 to block off the old boiler flue, so I'm rather hoping it's not asbestos despite apperances...

[@tomorichard]

@@davidnorth1021 it’s just cement board I would guess

[@Cjrelectrical]

Could be asbestolux

[@lla6672]

🧦 🧦 👆👍🍺

[@andrewlougher-harris5492]

what is the rating for 16mm2 T&E run throu the fabric of the building ????? and volt drop

[@supersparks9466]

It’s in the regs book, why don’t you look it up?

[@andrewlougher-harris5492]

@@supersparks9466 but don't know what the fabric of the building is or if there is insulation present ????

[@supersparks9466]

I thought you meant in general , if you meant at the job in this video then I can't comment sorry.

[@Lacking_something]

13:51 Wtaf is that spaghetti!?

[@davidnorth1021]

Ethernet cables going into the bottom of my router. I can't clip them to the walls because there are prescribed zones all over the place in that cupboard, since it houses the CU. But it's normally hidden behind coats so what the heck.

[@Lacking_something]

@@davidnorth1021 aaah ok 🤣 reminds me of the back of my hifi... A pain the knickers to dust

[@imark7777777]

@@davidnorth1021 so just start tacking them up we need to find out if there’s a Metal plate in the wall to protect the cables… 🤣

[@davidnorth1021]

I'm pretty certain there isn't. Since filming I've confirmed the incoming feed is in accessible trunking in the risers but there must be about 2m in the ceiling/wall voids to cross from the riser to my cupboard.

[@freddy46a]

Ok

[@kevinpickett7249]

Just don’t try getting free underpants FFS

[@Cjrelectrical]

I’d love some

[@petehiggins33]

I don't really see the problem with feeding two ring mains from one RCD. What exactly are you hoping will still be powered on while you're investigating the fault? Much the same applies to lighting. Why would I want the lights to remain on upstairs if the RCD has tripped while I'm downstairs? There may be a tiny, tiny, nanoscopic advantage to having an RCD or RCBO on each circuit but it hardly justifies the enormous cost.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Split load is better than nothing and dirt cheap

[@davidb3537]

Depends how long the electrics off for, 24hrs or more on a hot summers day and no where to temporarily connect the freezer? Those RCBOs would not look so expensive then!

[@davidnorth1021]

Having lived in this flat for six years, the lights all on one breaker doesn't bother me (unless I'm putting a new one up and would prefer some light from an adjacent room!). Losing all the sockets including five minutes for the internet to come back after an RCD trip is a more common annoyance though.

[@davidnorth1021]

If I was planning to be here for much longer I'd probably ask Chris to quote me for putting RCBOs into the existing board, but I'm likely to be selling up in 2021 so I'll leave that for the next person

[@davidb3537]

Shame they don't put back-up batteries in routers would save all that time waiting for it to reboot

[@donaldtriumph1682]

First honest🤫🤫

[@mrsecurity]

He he lol

[@n3ilvincent870]

Why do you lip smack every time you talk

[@danielsimmons93]

Third