The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion

The cloche is one of the most distinct fashions of the 1920s, both in history and in modern media representations. Though it wasn't the only era when close fitted hats were all the rage, it has come to be an immediate reference to the era of the Flapper. But what is the true history of this iconic accessory? When did it come in to style and what prompted its invention? What lead to its demise? And most importantly- what IS a cloche hat?
Turns out the general answer is hair styles. The cloche came into popularity as it worked with new and modern styles like the Bob and Shingle, while also supporting the active lifestyle of women in the era. Thus the cloche style- snugly fitted around the head without a great deal of weight or size- was the popular option until hair styles began to shift again. In reality it had an extremely long life as far as fashion goes. One article noted that French women had been wearing them for so long the old adage of women constantly changing was beginning to be questioned in regards to the current generations.
As always though, the best way to understand a long lost fashion is to recreate it and test it out. So I made three different styles of hats, all with the same cloche shaped crown, to wear on an upcoming month long trip.
Hat bodies and modern supplies mostly from Judith M Millinery: www.judithm.com/shop/
Crochet patterns for tams: www.etsy.com/listing/79752886...
Crochet pattern for checkered hat: www.etsy.com/listing/49394823...
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00:00 Edwardian Bells
04:31 Variety
11:08 Project Plans
13:41 Construction
21:14 Reveal

[@OdeInWessex]

I love hats, on other people and those really suit you. The gold one is really rather spectacular - the kind of hat worn by Rudolph Valentino's paramour, a woman of confidence, fun and adventure. The black one has a touch of 'Italian Widow' about it, terribly stylish and potentially dangerous sheltering dark secrets. The red one, my favourite, is the hat of a trailblazing female reporter fearlessly investigating the murder of the Italian Widow's husband by - allegedly, the deeply in shock paramour of Valentino, all against a Duke Ellington soundtrack. Phew, you have been a busy, very talented woman!

[@mirandarensberger6919]

Please let us know when your screenplay is ready, I totally want to watch that movie!

[@coalsparks]

I agree, the red one is so awesome and makes you look like you’re about to get up to something! :)

[@thedreamsicle1]

Doesn't she have a name?

[@Vee_of_the_Weald]

Wonderful story telling. 👌🏼

[@JoannaLouise200]

They're all so beautiful, but I particularly favour the elegant green-gold cloche with the amazing vintage trim & side feathers...it will be so much fun to wear!

[@naowright9308]

With the brass band it made me think, "Snazzy!" I loved it!

[@Chibihugs]

That beautiful cloche hat with your scarlet waves is breathtaking. I am loving this deep dive. I wish hat would be more popular again.

[@denisegore1884]

All fashion trends start with one person. My friends and I wear our hats often.

[@kagitsune]

I predict that they shall! Especially as people become more aware of skin damage from excess sun exposure, and as historically-inspired lower-maintenance hair washing/styling routines gain some popularity. 😁

[@lisaharmon5619]

Hats will be fashionable when we start wearing them. Why wait for "fashion" to tell us what to wear.

[@gustavmielke777]

I always wear hats, everything season. If you like it, wear it.

[@michellebyrom6551]

Cloche hats are the easiest to keep in place when walking about. Like the beanie, the smaller ones don't get in the way in cars either. Start with something simple in a neutral colour. You can add different trims/brooches/hat pins for variation and experiment. You'll soon be proudly sporting something bright and fancy as your confidence grows. Yes. People look. I've never had any nasty comments, only compliments. The rest just smile in a friendly way. Enjoy yourself. 😉

[@RandaEd]

The green hat is SO gorgeous! I didn't expect that, but when you put it on it just came to life.

[@allylouise1761]

I am just in awe of how talented you are. Is there anything you can’t do? I think I would feel slightly less inadequate in life if I found out that you were completely inept at folding a fitted sheet (for example).

[@indiabilly]

I second that emotion! Was going to ask if there’s anything she can’t do, I would appreciate it if she could tell me she can’t cook or something- anything to make me feel less inadequate xx

[@NicoleRudolph]

Haha! I’m terrible at traditional sports. Can’t catch or throw a thing.

[@indiabilly]

@@NicoleRudolph thank you, I appreciate the effort, that’s a start! But I’m not that great at sports either xx

[@KellyBurnett138]

@@indiabilly I am good at sports, but I’d rather be a good @sewing/shoe and hat making! 😢

[@user-zp8sk2rc4m]

@Ally Louise I thought exactly the same! She floors me with every video! I'm sure she merely needs to look at a fitted sheet and it obediently folds itself!

[@mastersadvocate]

I am a hat person, and I just adore Cloche hats. It was the MISS FISHER'S MURDER MYSTERIES that got me interested in 1920s hats and fashion! I enjoyed listening to your history of the Cloche, and seeing you make some hats was pure magic! Thank you for sharing! ~Janet in Canada

[@ShannonLambert]

Every project in this series has been more stunning than the last. You've really outdone yourself here, and they're all just gorgeous.

[@mjw1111]

I love these deep dives into the where, when, and how fashion trends start. Awesome video as always.

[@chamberswagner2010]

"Police Sergeant Good-Taste" - nice! Now I'm wondering when exactly the term "fashion police" started to be used.

[@jennycorey8968]

I could watch you make hats and shoes all day long! My favorite? The olive/gold one.

[@vintagelife5195]

These rabbit holes you take us all down are always so interesting. Youre an amazing craftsperson.

[@saneben9917]

Couldn't agree more. What an amazing crafts person xx Such interesting videos. Gives you the history and then you see how things can be crafted, followed by the reveal. I just appreciate and love these types of videos. We'll done Nicole Rudolph. Brilliant video.

[@phranerphamily]

I bought a cloche style hat at the J. Peterman store before it disappeared in the 1990s. It is still my favorite hat which is beautiful burgundy with feathers and a velvet black flower. All of your hats are stunning and I think you have inspired me to maybe try my hand at doing my own 🥰🥰🥰

[@sarahburke8955]

The olive hat totally won my heart; it's probably because of the trim. They're all glorious, though- If I could pull off that style, I'd wear all of them!

[@susanblanche9684]

Ofcourse I love that green hat. So chic and classy!!

[@elainebye9090]

I love these hats! Especially the green one. I am interested in the ones your mom is making, too. Could you list patterns somewhere?

[@NicoleRudolph]

Crochet patterns for tams: www.etsy.com/listing/797528863/bear-brand-bucilla-300-c1925-pdf-ebook Crochet pattern for checkered hat: www.etsy.com/listing/493948233/fleishers-knitting-crocheting-manual-18

[@sinswept]

You know, I thought the black on black hat would be my favourite because olive is not a favourite colour of mine, but that olive hat and the shape of it really suited you! It was my favourite in the end together with the burgundy one :) So cute!

[@lauraguglielmo]

It's amazing how much a good hat completes an outfit!!

[@amb163]

This is so fascinating to watch! I've made a few felted wool cloches before, but I knit mine huge then wet-felt them down to size, molding them here and there as they dry. A lot of the shape comes from my initial knitting pattern, though. Yours turned out so beautifully -- I might have to steal a few of the shaping techniques you used!

[@ByIlonaMillinery]

It's lovely to see interest in millinery! I prefer to apply stiffener to the inside of the hat bodies before they are shaped - this way you avoid the possibility of discoloration and staining from the stiffener. Using fully wet felts can also cause pins to rust and stain the felt - so I always use just steam - just a lot of it. Depending on the quality of the felt, it can take up to 30 minutes for the seam to fully soften the hat body.

[@ruthmeow4262]

I love cloche hats, would wear them every day if I had the option.

[@frankieamsden7918]

Absolutely FANTASTIC!!! I've been living vicariously through your videos. I would have liked to do this cruise but my husband isn't well enough. I hope you are going to vlog about it. I can't wait to see all your outfits in action.

[@littlegrayfishes]

What beautiful hats! Watching you make these hats reminded me of my millinery internship right after high school. I loved watching the felt cones take shape on the form after steaming, and then linging and decorating them. too bad this profession is a dying one and opening a hat shop usually means not making any money these days unless you are very lucky. But I do love it deeply!

[@johannayaffe2647]

I suggest selling hats online...especially to the rich & famous, or to religious groups, many of whom wear hats for modesty reasons...also in the UK it's pretty de rigueur to wear hats/fascinators for the races, regattas, & weddings - and garden parties

[@phemyda94]

I wonder how much the ubiquity of the cloche hat was also due to hatmakers being able to use the same blocks for everything. Convenient for the consumer and the manufacturer!

[@aliceblanchard8715]

Observers of the late Queen Elizabeth's hats will have noticed that the same shape has been used over and over - different blocks over the decades. Hat blocks are still made ( Guy Morse-Brown) but are indeed very expensive.

[@ginalou5774]

That shot of the model at the end was fabulous. Between the two of you you made those hats look stunning 😊

[@PumpkinBecki]

When I think of Cloche hats, I immediately think of Stella Gonet in the 1990's BBC TV series "House of Elliot". She looked stunning in all of them! I adore Cloche hats, and I think it's a crying shame hats are no longer part of everyday attire xx

[@animosity9197]

I love seeing the different kinds of hats you can make with one hat block! Pinching the top of the crown makes a totally different silhouette with that same block, and I never would have thought to try it without seeing it!

[@janisi9262]

That red hat is so smart with the suit! I see what you mean about the hair felt: it's a completely different texture. I was a little apprehensive about the green shade, but having it paired with the trim and the outfit really balanced the colours. I still think it'd be dodgy with some complexions, but it works on you! At 12:55, there is a hat with cross-lacing, which is a nice decoration in itself, but could possibly be used to keep other decorations in place.

[@johannageisel5390]

The green and gold one is spectacular! I love it! That trim is amazing! The black one with the simple black band and the red one are tied on position number two of my favourites. The black one with the golden swirls is number three.

[@VtorHunter]

I am loving this series of making clothes for this trip so much. I love all the research and thought that is going into all the layers and accessories. Those hats look so great! Bailey was super cute in the olive one. I can't wait to hear how the trip goes. I would also be interested in how you are going to pack all of these items.

[@tmbentley1966]

I’m imagining a ton of suitcases, a steamer trunk and who knows what else.

[@michellebyrom6551]

The green and gold trim looks like it was made for the hat, not the other way round. I love all of them, but that's my favourite. This cruise is going to be a trip of a lifetime. This preparation is half the fun.

[@patriciagleve4784]

Wonderful! My favourite 'fashion' period - the long column clothes; the shoes (sigh) the HATS!!!! I've spent a very happy 25 minutes watching this when I should be outside painting the porch 😆When I've finished painting, I'm gonna watch some more! Thank you ❤

[@Fellinara]

I shared this to my facebook because while I don't wear 1920's styles, I loved the how to make them as well as the history. However I melted as soon as I saw the dog in the olive clouche! So freaking adorable!

[@annastevens1526]

3:25 Wow! 😳 I've never seen this tall-but-short hairstyle reproduced by any historical recreations or historically-set popular media. A really unusual in-between stage on the road from Edwardian hair-haystacks to sleek Marcel-waved bobs...? Thank you so much for this fascinating deep-dive Nicole, it's awesome. As you note, we generally tend to view the generic '20s cloche in isolation, without really thinking about where it actually came from or went to, so learning more was fascinating! Love seeing your final creations too. (And yeah, I've encountered the phrase "shingling & bingling" in ref. to the 1920s women's haircuts, but only in contemporary fiction...? Think maybe it was in a Dorothy Sayers book?)

[@kathrynmccarthy]

Oh! I love how these hats turned out. They really complete the look. It's as if you time traveled right out of the 20s

[@charlottejohnk6712]

Girl you need to be super proud of yourself! Those hats are gorgeous and they look amazing on you❤. I enjoyed watching your process and I learned so many interesting pieces of history. I’ve recently become interested in the 20’s after watching a 1929 silent movie entitled “Why be Good?” The lead actress, Colleen Moore enchanted me so much I got my hair cut just like hers and I love it. Have an amazing time on your cruise, you can rest assured that you’ll be beautifully dressed!

[@rejoyce318]

Nicole, your hair is stunning, especially the iridescent effect of the colors against the waves.

[@jenniferleighmiron8135]

Your hats are absolutely beautiful. I hope you will be taking pictures on your cruise so we can pretend, for just a moment, that we are back in the " roaring twenties" on a cross continental cruise.

[@kikidevine694]

The film, The Gay Divorcee has an older female character who seems to dress stylishly, but a few years behind actual fashion and, if memory serves, wears a beautiful cloche with 'wings' framing her face, accented by darling wispy feathers. I love it because it mimics the art deco shape and frames the face, rather than obscuring it. It also, with the movement of the feathers, emphasises the flighty nature of the character. Hats are extensions of the person wearing them. Which is why yours are so brilliant

[@gideonstupke2257]

I'm so happy to see someone else that has a love for 1920s fashion! I'd love to see these styles make a come back

[@elainecooke156]

I'm so surprised at how popular the snug cloche hats we usually think of, were. Like a beanie hat, there are so few people on whom they look flattering. I guess that still today, people will slavishly wear things that don't suit them, simply because they are currently fashionable. The archetypal fashion victim.

[@jonahandthewolf]

Like large puffed coats, idk why everyone wears them bc they do not suit everyone. Or berets

[@argusfleibeit1165]

Really love the olive one. I have always been a hat-wearer, mostly to avoid sun. And I tend to like the ones that come down over my eyes, not sticking up from the crown. However, I often find myself feeling a little claustrophobic in them, feeling like my peripheral vision is impaired. First I'm pulling it down, then I'm pushing it back. And because I've also worn glasses most of my life, that tends to interfere with freedom of hat wearing. The first cloche I ever saw was in about 1970 in a magazine showing maxi-coats. It was a heavy crocheted cloche, and I was crazy about the look. When I actually found one in a local store, I was SO happy. I wore that hat all winter for several years. Recently I challenged myself to replicate the shape by crocheting three or four yarn strands together to get the right weight. They turned out great, but living in Georgia, they are probably too hot to get much wear out of.

[@johnshepard629]

The model at the end, in the white fur, is extraordinarily elegant and lovely!

[@cassandralyris4918]

I always felt that cloche hats looked weird on me, but it looks GREAT on you. Another fantastic job. 🤩

[@litzgrahmann6468]

These hats are perfection! So flattering on you.

[@bethaniejify]

Oh, these hats made my day. I love your videos, and the depth you go into the history of clothing. But I loved all three of these hats. Thanks for sharing!

[@cjbrown3773]

I love that you cite so many primary sources in your videos! ❤❤

[@MichelleH1791]

These cloches are beautiful! I love, love, love hats.

[@amcluckie9837]

Stunning. You make it look so simple. Love your videos.

[@erinrabideau3691]

I am in love with this video and with all of these gorgeous hats! Amazing job!

[@kimberlyarnett2356]

I have to let you know that as I was watching this video, my number one human walked by and exclaimed, "Wow! I love what she's done with her hair. It looks so good on her!". I told him about the cruise, etc., And I think he might be a little jealous. I'm in awe of your skills and hope you have a wonderful time!

[@elizathemermaid]

All the hats are gorgeous and the history is so interesting! I especially love the green-gold cloche and clearly your puppy does too

[@quicksilvertears921]

I just get excited when Sunday comes because of you.

[@emilylindtveit3896]

I’ve been avidly following your planning and execution of the “capsule wardrobe”. I adore all the documentation and research in your videos!! It makes my day when there is a new post from you!

[@savvysayshi]

These look fantastic on you and you make it look so easy! Guess its time for me to try another craft! Thank you for doing these deep dives and for showing us these neat crafting things we may not otherwise see. You rock!

[@isabelpires927]

These are glorious, and the whole capsule wardrobe is turning out soooo beautiful!

[@ginaderosebell3526]

I love your hats and the video. It is so interesting to learn how all these fashion items were made. Thanks for sharing your work with your audience. I'm sure I'm not the only one fascinated.

[@claraedouwesdekker6389]

Oh how super! So glad I stumbled upon your video. Thank you. 🌷🇿🇦

[@auddie6639]

Your projects are so inspirational... now I want to make hats.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Oh all the hats are lovely! Thank you for the research too. It’s fascinating what I learn from your videos.

[@rachaeldiviney712]

you are so skilled, these hats are incredible, well done!

[@hazeluzzell]

I really can’t wait for pictures of you in these creations!!

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

OMG they came out so well! I especially loved the first one, and the red one!

[@ToriLynnH]

Your work in incredible! The end results superb.

[@mbww8572]

❤ your vids. So researched, so informative!

[@kerriemaher2822]

Hats suit you so much. The outfits are really coming together now & they look wonderful

[@mandeliongardens]

This was really fun to watch, and it was awesome to learn more about the history, and the ambiguities of terminology.

[@PolyvoreThea]

So coool to see someone actually make cloches!!! Bless your heart!

[@aliciascott3176]

Amazing, so glad I found you. I have made several hats in years past. I am inspired to do so again. Subscribed and can't wait to see more.

[@pamjacobs12]

Your hats are so well made & beautiful!! ❤

[@Live4theblacknote]

Such a beautiful job on all the hats! So talented!

[@janetmackinnon3411]

I have just found your channel--and what elegance! Thank you.

[@peggyriordan9857]

I don't know how I missed this video!! Thank you for letting us see how you made the hats. They came out so nicely and look beautiful on you! You will be getting alot of compliments on them for sure. Thanks again!

[@LoverofHistory]

These hats are lovely!! I'm really enjoying your 1920 content, since it's an era I've been spending a lot of time researching over the past few years. I'm hoping to try my hand at creating some 1920s outfits too :) Thanks for sharing!

[@cris-amv]

Lovely, lovely, lovely! They are all so, so beautiful! You look amazing in all three! I love hats and seeing yours made me want the cold weather to come again so I can get one in similar styles! 😊

[@4MaryJaneInsane]

Fantastic Video as well! And you reminded me of how much the process of making hats is fun! Haven't done that in quite some time but want to do it again soon :)

[@curtainsup9]

loved them all... and loved seeing the process.

[@funkycoldmedina29]

The only hat I ever regret not buying. A plum cloche hat back in high school. It looked so beautiful on and I felt beautiful in it.

[@renbortosky7052]

These hats are all so beautiful! I think the olive one is my favorite, but the silk on the red one is just gorgeous.

[@ColorwaveCraftsCo]

The gold one is definitely my favorite ❤ love how you dive into the history of the items you’re making

[@kimberlypatton205]

Oh how much I love the looks and cloche hats!

[@jenhaynes9721]

Love the green one best - such a pretty hat and very flattering. Can hardly wait for photos of your trip!

[@terristephens9820]

Beauteous is the word I use for the hats and how they look on you. Thank you for sharing your creative skills and knowledge. This video makes me want to break down and make a cloche hat. Lovely!

[@jayneterry8701]

Nicole I have so been excitedly waiting for this video! You are an amazing designer and crafts person ❤! And your Mum🙂💕 . It was fascinating watching you shape and craft your cloches. Your face is perfect for the styles! Thank you also for the couple extra seconds you added to each picture to get a decent look. 😘👍🇨🇦

[@nancyt2003]

Love all three hats. My goodness! You are a woman of many talents!

[@B3Kusa]

Wow, you're amazing. I can't have enough of watching your amazing work, knowledge and craftsmanship. You're incredible. ♥️

[@abirhussein9781]

I'm very excited to see how everything comes together on the trip. You will steals the show 🥰

[@EliDeNeige]

This yellow hat hat the nice brim is SOOOO nice and fit so well !

[@JadyLester]

Cloche hats are favorites of mine. Im low-key obsessed with these, this content is directed right at me

[@beckyjo0207]

You're such a talent! I'm always so impressed with everything you make. Beautiful!

[@oopzidazey6114]

What a great tutorial. I was captivated. Your hands are very beautiful as are your extraordinary hat creations. Bravo.

[@dagnolia6004]

The side look you give the camera whilst wearing the fabulous goldenrod hat is reminiscent of a young Norma Shear… so beautiful!

[@rebeccaharrison-hutcheson2169]

Love, love, LOVE the hats! You are a genius.

[@CastielWillow]

Those. Hats. Are. So. Stinking. ADORABLE!!!!

[@saraa3418]

OMG these came out so well!! I love the concept of a cloche, but have never found anything that works on my big head.

[@LycIrisAurora]

So stinking cuuuuute!!! Love the hair too you're really nailing the waves

[@Morticia147]

Wow, looks great. I hope we get to see all of the outfits you made for the trip in one video. So much work in such short time....

[@shamancarmichael5305]

The heck with shoes, hats are the thing! These are fantastic! I can't wait to see all the amazing ensembles together on the ship. Beautiful work!

[@luciarel8131]

I wish that making clothing, hats and shoes was really as effortless as you make it look! The hats are all stunning, but my favorite it definitely the red, with the ridge on top, and a perfect match with the suit.

[@nikaleelawson9451]

These are just too fun!!! Love them!

[@lisabmpls]

This video and the ones you did for the Dandy Wellington cruise bring to mind my Great-Grandmother’s photo album of a Trans-Atlantic trip she and a friend made in 1929. They went from the US to Europe and the Middle East in Jan 1929 and cloche hats were definitely worn! Thanks for making such cool content!

[@saneben9917]

What an amazing video......hats, hats, hats!.....oh how I so love hats. You really suit these style of hats. Unbelievable you actually made them!. It was great to see the processes Ive never seen this before. The green hat is my favourite hat and it REALLY does look lovely on you.