I Made 18th Century Stays Completely by Hand

[@NicoleRudolph]

I ended up dropping the ambience video on my main channel here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYnEZ2Str6x_apY but I'll be adding more ASMR videos to my other channel soon!: kzbin.info/door/VQc2EHcXrxqpR5mW-pE1pA

[@lucasmcinnis5045]

Currently suffering through boning a pair of Elizabethan bodies so this hits a little too hard

[@LauraPelofske]

Thank you for taking some time to talk about posture and self care while working on a project like this! We shouldn't have to suffer for our art. :) The 'ugly' insides are so fascinating, I love this in depth step by step. And the final result is impeccable in craftsmanship and practicality!

[@TaylorTheOtter]

I'm only about 2/3rds through the video but I just wanna say I learned something really important from this. While the result is extremely intricate and very elegant, the process is really practical and to the point. I'm the type of person who thinks way too much about a project and then I don't end up even starting because I see too many potential problems. The more I think, the more problems I need to figure out a solution for. And if I don't do that, I feel like I can't make it as perfect as I want. This video is direct proof that (with enough skill) you can just take the practical approach and make something really incredible. And with experience, I think that becomes even more true since then you can adapt to problems that come up while working more easily too. Let's hope I can put this knowledge into practice and finally get over my perfectionism paralysis.

[@dressmup1]

as a Virgo, I feel your pain

[@TaylorTheOtter]

@@dressmup1 as a dysfunctional Capricorn with Saturn in retrograde in the third house, I forgot where I was going with this sentence...

[@MossyMozart]

@TaylorTheOtter - I am like you, except without sewing skills. ^_^

[@RT-wm3wb]

I have that exact problem. That's why I have watched probably every video from youtube of making stays. I have looked many many pictures and asked questions from other hobbyists. Finally in the process of actually making a pair!

[@fan2jnrc]

What's fascinating is that as soon as she wears the stays, we immediately see the silhouette of the period, the body is immediately transformed, we're looking at a portrait or an engraving from the 18th century. The shape of the silhouette is everything. That's why so many historical films don't work: they don't wear the right undergarments under the costumes, and even with an 18th-century-style dress, the overall look of the body remains modern.

[@thirza9508]

Gosh Nicole, these stays are truly a work of art! From the materials to the stitching and the fit, everything is so beautiful. I also watched Bella Mae's videos recently where she made a pair of 18th century stays by hand and now it's starting to itch for me too, even though I've never made anything 18th century lol. And indeed, in Dutch the seating position is called "kleermakerszit', translating literally to 'clothes maker's sit. '

[@random200]

Goh inderdaad ja! Nooit over na gedacht!

[@thirza9508]

@@random200 Geinig he?

[@jenhaynes9721]

Question, has a museum ever asked about incorporating your recreation videos along with the inspiration exhibit?

[@LynnHermione]

Thank you for mentioning the knot thing! when I did ballet i would sew my ballet shoe ribbons with the knot on the outside because I have gotten blisters from the tiny tiny knot of a single thread rubbing against my ankle

[@phemyda94]

I've hand sewn four pairs of stays now and your stitching is BREATHTAKING. Absolutely exquisite. Side note: for those who want to sand the edges of their boning, use an acrylic nail file! They're designed to file very similar plastic material. Sandpaper works but takes forever, 3/10, do not recommend.

[@jessalbertine]

Body mechanics / efficiency professional here. You absolutely can sit cross legged for long periods of time as long as you're looking down! It's looking up in that position that would be a problem. If you have the forward curl in your mid/low back but a backward curl in your neck, the contrast there creates strain. Sitting on a slightly raised cushion, so your pelvis is on the cushion but your feet are not, can help too. And like you said, take breaks, change positions sometimes. Take care of yourself, humans aren't statues. What a gorgeous piece! I'm in awe of the level of detail here. Awesome video!

[@washingtonunibound]

Obviously you put a MASSIVE amount of hard work into this, but to someone who doesn't sew, this still feels like magic. Watching you do all the fiddly bits that I can't imagine my hands doing is so so cool. ❤

[@Betsyschugar]

Trust me, I do sew (mostly daily wear garments nothing like this) and this still seems like borderline witchcraft to me

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

This is a literal masterpiece. You've been a top-tier artisan for many years but I think this pushed you into new territory!

[@bethliebman8169]

You do have mad skills! You have created a very handsome garment. I love these make-it videos. I find the voiceover explanation of what you are doing so interesting. Thank you, Nicole for this delightful video. Hope your hands recover soon.

[@LoralynnAnn]

Beautiful job! The Tailor's way of sitting makes a lot of sense to me. I always find myself sitting cross-legged with a board across my knees when hand sewing. Now I know that there was a good reason for it. 😊 Thank you for sharing your process with us!

[@emmayoung330]

What a labor of love!! I can’t wait to see what they look like with the dress, and hear more about how they function vs your other stays!

[@marveludus]

desperately taking notes because my time travel novel is not writing itself and research is turning out to be super difficult edit: honestly, I wish information on especially lower class clothing and children's clothing throughout the ages was more accessible, and books didn't cost like 50 bucks

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

Did the same watching Morgan Donner's 17th c stays, lol!

[@RCZeta919]

Rewatching this while tackling the Redthreaded 1780s pattern! Of course no one "needs" permission to use a sewing machine for any project, but I'm grateful for the reminder just to shut up my own worry and perfectionism.

[@Siansonea]

This turned out great. The contours it creates are perfect, I can't wait to see the final look with the outer garments.

[@juls_krsslr7908]

Oh my god, those stays are amazing! I watched you making parts of these on Twitch, so I've been looking forward to seeing the end result. I knew they would be beautiful, but, wow, they really exceeded my expectations! I'm curious to know how they feel compared to other stays. I am making 1780s half boned stays from the Redthreaded pattern right now, so I can really appreciate how much work went into these! Mine seem so simple in comparison. I'm going to try to remember that whenever I feel like it's getting tedious. I'm grateful that I only have to do 30 or so boning channels, not over 200!

[@yoclark2723]

What a beautiful garment! Your stitches are so even and it looks like the stays will be sturdy and last a long time. I'm so impressed by your sewing and cobbling skills.

[@robinsiciliano8923]

Man. The workmanship on these stays is exquisite. You blow my mind on the regular. Brava my dear!!!

[@Baba_Wawa]

That is stunning! It’s aesthetically pleasant perfection & it was absolutely fascinating to see it so masterfully constructed! Thank you!

[@eirintowne]

Wow, what a perfect fit to your body! The more I sew, the more actual tailoring impresses me, there is just so much you need to understand and remember about anatomy and fabrics in order to achieve the perfect fit, especially for corsets (including stays)!

[@theplussizecostumer]

Thank you so much for showing your process. I'd never studied an extant pair of stays so it was very enlightening. I'm in the process of making my first pair of stays and now realize that I may have done a few things incorrectly. It's all sewn on my machine and, according to the pattern instructions, I needed to make sure I sewed the boning channels in the same direction, top to bottom. The instructions also said to alternate sides when sewing the channels starting from the center and working my way out to the seam allowances. I did start to sew section by hand. But after taking about 2 days to stitch the boning channels in just one piece I gave up and went to my machine. My hands thanked me. I was quickly running out of patience with hand sewing despite finding it to meditative. I really want to bin the whole thing and start over, but I don't have any more of that outer fabric, and I really like it. It was the leftovers of another project so I was working with less than a yard of it. I had a feeling I should have done a mockup first, but I didn't listen to my intuition. So, now I guess I'm going to finish them and learn from my mistakes. Though they're still at a point where I can make a few changes. Like changing way the tabs are boned. So, fingers crossed I get it done before the end of the year.

[@bobguy3939]

5 mins in and I'm getting up to do some seam finishing! lol. really feeling the hand stitching right now.

[@katienewell7350]

Utterly stunning! Love how the white silk tape accentuates the curves of the boning and stitching

[@strongallib]

What a beautiful piece Nicole! Thank you for sharing the whole process with us!

[@patriciahamel5674]

These turned out so well, and I love the shape that this silhouette creates. Absolutely stunning work!

[@emilyl0806]

You made this so easy to follow. In many sewing videos it's hard to see what's happening but I almost feel like I could reproduce this given a starting pattern.

[@lisahodges8299]

This work was worth the effort, subtle bodily asymmetry can be catered for easily. Nice rhythmic stitches and the binding is neat. Birdy

[@nurmihusa7780]

Stunning workmanship - as always you continue to amaze and inspire!

[@robinmichel9048]

My fingertips hurt just watching this! As always, Nicole, you are amazing.

[@vickywitton1008]

WOW! Your hand stitching is SO neat! I wish I could do it that neat!

[@EighteenQs]

Your back stitch is perfection, holy shit. It's wild.

[@ColleenMarble]

I find that hand-sewing is easier on my neck and back than sitting at the machine. I was in a taxi accident 5 years ago and was left with neck and upper back issues. If I alternate between machine and, say, sitting on the couch hand-sewing, I can have a longer day of sewing than sitting at the machine alone. Also, the more hand-sewing I do, the more I realize that, while it can be time-consuming, it's actually not as slow as I thought, and you do get a lot more control over how sleeves ease in, for example, or how trim goes around a corner.

[@gsharpist]

This is incredible! I am in awe of your workmanship!

[@LiquidShivaz]

I’m in awe! Such a beautiful and brilliant craft. This piece is already so incredibly beautiful. Much respect, it has taken you a lot of time and dedication to get here ❤

[@macdaiddavidson8051]

They look very comfortable. I would have thought the whole thing was sewn by machine. Your hand stitches are so perfect.

[@sarahlongshore2605]

Beautiful!!! I wish we still wore stays today. They are so good for your back and shoulders.

[@Golondrinka]

Only because I try to emulate your pronunciation (it is so beautiful) for learning better English, I keep noticing that you say ACROST instead of ACROSS. I was intrigued by this and checked the Internet for the correct use of these words. Looks like the word ACROST, while not recognized by English dictionaries, is sometimes used as a traditional variant. Interesting. I cannot comment on the stays. They are far beyond my comprehension of accuracy and beauty. I just look at you working as I would listen to a virtuoso musician.

[@nondisclosureable]

Stitching leather with a sharp needle like on the binding here dulls your needle quickly which makes the process harder. To reduce this effect, every time you change your thread, pass the needle completely through a small emery sand needle sharpener. If you don't know what that is it's a small fabric object densely stuffed with emery sand - an abrasive. If you have one of the 'classic tomato shaped pincushions with the little heavy strawberry attached, the strawberry is an emery sand needle sharpener. Do not stab and pull out, that will scuff up your needles/pins and can make it catch on finer fabrics. Instead, pass the needle all the way through the berry in one direction to sharpen the tip and minimize scuffing.

[@josephinedykstra3383]

Wow are those gorgeous! I handstitched an Elizabethan pair of bodies with far less structure and larger bones between 2021 and 23 and holy shit this is beautiful

[@melissamybubbles6139]

That's a lot of work. I'm glad you talked about posture and pacing yourself so as not to wear out your hands.

[@ColleenMarble]

Okay, that center busk is smart. I think I need that. I have only made one pair of stays. They have been fine for the outfits I've made so far, but the front doesn't want to lay flat. I have a lower belly pooch and it creates a bit of a ski slope on the lower tabs. They poke out and make my petticoats bulge out in front. I have gone back in and added additional boning, and I've stared wearing a compression garment under the stays to control the belly, but that creates it's own set of problems. I think the busk and the tab boning that goes under the other boning are great solutions! Also, I will make my next pair with the synthetic whalebone vs. the hack of zip ties. I have a very full bust, small waist and the belly issue, and I just need better materials for more support. Thanks for sharing - good lessons here.

[@mara3842]

Gosh those stitches are neater than many of the machine stitches one sees nowadays...

[@buddhabro.9130]

Simply beautiful. When you were wearing it it almost looked bird-like, the way it fits around the body. well done!

[@susannahallanic1167]

Congratulation on achieving such beautiful stays! Every stitch! Thank you for sharing

[@manicantsettleonausername6789]

These turned out jaw droppingly gorgeous, fantastic craftsmanship!

[@serpentartist1348]

My wrists hurt just watching this. Having said that, beautiful work, all the time and effort put into this definitely paid off

[@dysphoriawithcookies]

Thank you for talking through where it's important to be really precise and thorough and where it's ok to cut corners

[@AllTheArtsy]

I love the shape these stays give the body!

[@alicedieudonne8356]

Funny that in french sitting crossed legged is called "s"asseoir en tailleur" which means litterally...sitting like a tailor. Will definitely try it for some future sewing projects^^

[@ultimateskillchain]

I am gobsmacked! They came out so stunning and fit so well and the amount of work put into it.... You amaze me 😍

[@catrionahall8435]

It takes a bit of time to get used to having a thimble on your pushing finger but is very worth while on a project like this, you will be sewing for yard after yard by hand, a thimble does add power and speed. It will feel odd and irritating to begin with, so it is worth just wearing one while doing other stuff till it feels normal, that does happen eventually. Good luck.

[@NicoleRudolph]

I don't have a pushing finger normally. I actually pinch the needle, so wearing a thimble hurts- it bruises above my nail bed. I can wear it, as I do for much of the video, on my ring finger as a back up. Only tailors thimbles though. It's not a matter of training, as I've been sewing for over 35 years and have tried thimbles many times, it's that I work differently than some and rely on hand strength instead. And thankfully hand sew faster than almost anyone I know.

[@vernieplummer5148]

Will those stays are amazing. I cannot fathom the hours you work or how hard the work is. I really enjoy the fact that you like doing things the old fashioned way. Wonderful work!

[@4BWVan]

This is truly a work of love and art. What an amazing piece.

[@Alex-Sews]

My hands ache in sympathy just watching you stitch but what a gorgeous outcome!

[@susannepreuss4358]

Unbelievably amazing crafts-woman-ship!!!! One of the best stays tutorials out there! The stays are insanely beautiful!

[@AmPlant]

I have to say, the more boned undergarment videos I watch, the more I want to make my own. I've got my eye on a Pretty Housemaid corset pattern from the clockwork faerie, both because I love the look of it and because I have approximately 0% confidence in my ability to make a corset from a pattern that's not made for me and with no guidance on fitting. Let's see how long it takes me to work up the courage to start sourcing things for that project. Lovely work!

[@elizabethsloan3192]

That looks very supportive and comfortable as well as very beautiful.

[@bigsky14]

The visual of all those stitches is making my skin itch I think I'm allergic to high quality hard work

[@nunyabusiness164]

I was doing some drypoint engraving for like 6 hours today and my hands hurt so much .. I can only imagine how yours ache! I love his video. Thank you for including the sewing sounds, I love watching people sew to relax

[@vikingventures3888]

I'm just about to make my first pair of stays, and this video could not have come at a better time. Thank you so much for showing me so many things I needed to know!

[@hanatelige]

the stitching on these stays in so satisfying

[@niki_0107]

cross-legged with a board in my lap is exactly how I hand sew...I didn't know that's what tailor's used to do! it makes sense, it's really intuitive. I still wear out tho, my legs fall asleep and I get pain in my back and ribs from it 😂 might be doing it wrong tho

[@shellsbellswac1]

Stays are my favorite thing to make! I haven't made mine entirely by hand but I've done all the binding by hand and I find it so rewarding at the end!

[@blackmirrorprisoners]

i had no idea that it was normal to sit hunched over when handsewing. i've done a lot of crochet and i have a lot of trouble sitting upright, but i've had it drilled into me that that's how i'm supposed to sit. good to know i'm not a weirdo!

[@k80_]

Curving your whole upper back at a shallower angle is much less stressful than trying to sit upright in my experience, because if uou try to force yourself upright you will inevitably slump and put a lot more strain on your neck. That’s just what I’ve noticed myself though

[@KristinaHoneyHavenFarm]

This is absolutely lovely. I don't think I would have the patience for this kind of intricacy. The inside looks like it would be uncomfortable with all those fabric edges and stuff even with a chemise underneath.

[@lilykatmoon4508]

I love how these turned out. That seam tape really sets off the look.

[@DarcyCarmen]

Shout out to gangster Nicole for sewing all that without a thimble!

[@johannayaffe2647]

So restful to watch. You have amazing skill. It's absolutely gorgeous. I don't sew, but I enjoy watching you.

[@maz3002]

Amazing and mesmerising to watch ~ it blows me away!! I'm a hand quilter, so I can truly appreciate the time (and sore fingers) that goes into making a much loved piece. Taking lots of breaks is most important. It amazes me that you don't use a thimble.

[@jaymorris2458]

I'm intrigued by the need for leather binding. Also intrigued by how they would be laundered or cared for. The end result is stunningly good. Well done.

[@PrincessNebbia]

I plan on making my next stays by hand, but I will use the augusta stays pattern just to make some part of the process easier.

[@DipityS]

Oh, your poor hands! Be gentle with them for a couple of days. The stays are divine - utterly divine. A piece of beautiful art. They had such pretty under-things and support garments back then.

[@mmansour88]

Wow. That’s an impressive amount of work.

[@randihardy6642]

This is a stunning piece of engineering, im blown away! Incredible!

[@lyndabethcave3835]

Holy flip, WOW. Such skill! Such craft! ART.

[@rachelstelmach698]

Absolutely stunning work! And thanks, too, for the advice about the ergonomics of doing that much hand stitching!

[@sharimeline3077]

Those look pretty comfortable. And so neatly done, good job.

[@cherylspear1633]

Ooh, the spread-out anchoring channels is such a great tip!

[@guacamojo]

was shaking my head in disbelief as i was watching it start to come together, and then my jaw just dropped at the finale. this is INSANE. this is high art. please take a break after making this masterpiece u probably need one after all that work

[@B00B33Z]

I aspire to be at this level of craftsmanship 💕

[@felinetherapy4782]

My hands hurt watching this! But what a outcome!

[@Historyofstitchery]

KSUM 1983.1.1508 (which was in the patterning video) has a very similar internal construction to the Bankfield pair. I was supersurprised when I saw the huge horizontal bone, because that was the first 80’s pair I’d ever seen inside. Also, the pair shows evidence of the front straps originally being connected by eyelets, but was later sewn on to the main body. It appears to be done with linen thread, so it could have been contemporary. It looks like something similar happened to the Bankfield pair.

[@Historyofstitchery]

Every time I see a KSUM piece I point at the screen and go I KNOW HER!!

[@catrionahall8435]

A relief to see that thimble near the end😊

[@IAmCraftingAgain]

It is interesting to hear that you and others in the comments like sitting with a curved back, it's incredibly uncomfortable for my back and next after sitting like that for 20 mins, I'm most comfortsble with a supported back, and cushions or a table keeping my work half way up my torso.

[@ashleyraye8608]

Your voice and sewing process is so relaxing to listen to 😊

[@zimtt1276]

Thank you! That final reveal, brought a tear to my eye.

[@saskiacowan8962]

I’m equally fascinated and terrified at the thought of making stays, hopefully I’ll get there one day

[@RT-wm3wb]

Wow! I'm finally in the process of making my own pair of stays. I'm doing two pieces of baselayer, then one fashion fabric on top (because I can't sew as even stiches as you and I would be horrified to see all my stiches 😂) and then one layer of lining. Haven't seen anyone do stays with fashion fabric like I'm doing but I have seen several pictures of that type in the museums. Thank you for this video because it helped me understand the busk and the horisontal boning! Your stays are so beautiful. I hope mine will be at least half as pretty as yours 😂.

[@lmack2009]

How GORGEOUS are those?!?! Stunning work, thank you so much for sharing your process! I love all your videos, and look forward to your next adventure!

[@sapphicfaery]

I have also been working on a pair of stays. I was working on sewing the binding while watching the video, so it was like sewing along :)

[@cynthiaajmurray1827]

I couldn't believe all of the details, the fortitude and seemingly endless process that you labored in to make these beautiful stays! I was laughing and crossing my eyes as I tried to imagine ever having so much dedication and patience complete a project this big.... just, WOW! I had been contemplating trying to make a pair and you may have dissuaded me, though I'd love to if I thought would be possible to complete them. Thank you so much for this channel and the sharing of your knowledge and experience. What a kind and generous gift!

[@petergaskin1811]

Psst. For sewing through leather, try using a sailor's "palm". Apropos of nothing, did you know that Bernard Weatherill, sometime Speaker of the House of Commons, was previously a Savile Row tailor who worked using the tailor's cross-legged sewing position.

[@katwitanruna]

Love a needlenose plier for pulling needles.

[@Chibihugs]

This is giving me the courage to want to try hand stitching my own stays. Mine are less boned but goodness these look so beautiful done by hand.

[@marthabenner6528]

Very flattering. Also well made, the way your boned the tabs was fascinating.

[@xingcat]

What an amazingly detailed piece of work!

[@josefagomezschmeisser8356]

Omg, the result is stunning