500 years of Women's Underwear History

[@NicoleRudolph]

Check out Care/of and their quiz to figure out what you need to add to your daily care routine! (Other than more pet cuddles)

[@18Countrygirlforever]

I was wondering if you have references for some of the pictures and images that you used? There are several of them that are really cool and I'd like to have prints of, but I'm not sure where to find them.

[@TheVintageGuidebook]

Dress shields ABSOLUTELY need to come back. Hate when cute clothes are ruined by pit-stains!

[@maryeckel9682]

It also makes them impossible to resell, adding to fashion waste!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I fond the worst stains were from when I used antiperspirant (which I'd just sweat through), haven't ruined the pits of any of my clothes since I switched to just deoderant. And I smell better too.

[@allyourbase888]

Anti perspiration contains aluminum which stains clothing yellow.

[@RefractedStarlight]

I inherited a couple of vintage party dresses from my grandmother and one of them (from the early 1960s if I am any judge, which I may or may not be) came with her old dress shields in the pits, safety pinned in place. I did throw those out as I don't want to wear someone else's decades-old sweat and they were sort of... disintegrating, but the construction appeared to be layers of flannel on top of a layer of vinyl. They actually do still sell dress shields - you can buy them at sewing shops around where I live, both large chain and smaller. It is a shame they aren't more mainstream and I didn't know about them until about ten years ago, but they do exist!

[@princessdaisy4134]

I agree.

[@hannnahm]

My nan was born in 1915 in a very isolated and rural village, so fashions were probably 5-15 years behind the times. When you look at how dramatically undergarments changed over her lifetime, it's totally mind blowing. I remember her looking scandalized when I showed her my prom dress in 2002 and wasn't wearing a slip or shapewear (what she called a girdle) at all.

[@JB-vd8bi]

My grandmothers would be gobsmacked if they were here to see me wearing petticoats and slips willingly in 1950s dresses

[@thespaceshuttlechallenger7882]

My grandma was of the 20s, she lived just long enough to see me get into vintage fashion. I will never forget her wise words, "Why the hell would you want to wear that?!

[@JB-vd8bi]

@@thespaceshuttlechallenger7882 that also reminds me of my grandma! I asked to have some homewares when she was downsizing. She couldn't believe I wanted the things

[@tulipqueen7106]

Lol, my grandma was slightly taken aback when she found out I wasn't wearing pantyhose to my prom in 2015. Definitely something that has gone out of style a lot more recently; I remember my mom wearing them regularly for formal occasions up until the early 2000's. But I can't say I'm mad about it.

[@k80_]

I can totally see a mom in 1918 bringing her teen daughter to buy underwear or fabric for it and totally rolling her eyes at all the colors she’s excited about. Like in 2013 when high school me was wearing leggings as pants with chunky sweaters and combat boots and my mom telling me I looked ridiculous (“that’s a lotta look.”) People have never changed :,)

[@jjudy5869]

Or be a teen-ager in the mid to late '60s. Mother was very honest about my short chubby legs and mini-skirts.

[@jenchan4817]

Leggings, bulky sweaters, and combat boots was a thing in the 1980s, you’re mom really shouldn’t have been shocked by it coming back.

[@k80_]

@@jenchan4817 hah, yeah that 2010s tumblr fashion was pretty much a late 80s/ early 90s revival period what with the dyed hair and band tees and crew necks and big combat boots. Maybe she saw herself and cringed, lol

[@annabeinglazy5580]

@@k80_ tbf i mum absolutely HATES leggings because she sees them as 1980s items and she hated the quality of Leggings at the time. Modern Leggings are constructed a bit differently than the Leggings that i remember from the 90s, but to her theyre the Devils clothing haha When i was in my later Teens and people started wearing leggings as jeans she went on Long unprompted rants about how much she hates sportswear and aerobics 😂

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

And, to some extent, neither does fashion. How many times in the last century alone have big shoulders been fashionable? I've seen modern clothes that are 100% 1980s, which of course was a rerun of 1940s. We've had empire waistlines popping in and out for literal centuries. Now if we could have sexy men in tight stockings again I would be very grateful - show off those calves, Gentlemen!

[@roxiepoe9586]

While working as a waitress in the 1970's my brilliant boss decided that we needed to wear coloured bras that would show through our uniform blouses as this would attract the attention of the male customers and enhance traffic and increase profits. This was the Breakfast Shift in a Truck Stop!!!!! The best thing about being a good waitress is that one can change jobs in seconds and one's customers often followed one to the next job. lol The underware sagas are unending.

[@sarahtaylor4264]

That is straight up sexual harassment.

[@agcons]

Let me guess: the expense of purchasing the coloured brassieres was going to be all on the staff, not management, right?

[@kellysouter4381]

Boss was male, I suppose? Who was this really for?

[@diannenixon621]

My freshman year of college (1970) I worked in various fast food joints, the uniforms were interesting. I was a carhop at a Root Beer place and we wore hot pants and white blouses...I quit when the white blouse became sheer (a 17 year old wearing a 34A did not want to show the world what she didn't have)..

[@J-sv9dp]

⁠@@kellysouter4381You'd be surprised how quickly bosses who work with a lot of attractive women can become desensitised to such things... It's for his benefit of course, but not necessarily in the way you imagine. Sleazy though the policy was, it could well have been a profitable business move given its being marketed towards long-distance truck drivers, especially if it means losing staff and hiring new (and probably younger) replacements on a regular basis... I suspect his decision had more to do with profit than his own personal gratification.

[@doris1826]

Growing up with a great-great-grandmother, a great-grandmother, a grandmother and, of course my Mom, i remember so many iterations of underwear, depending on which of the women I was around. When I started junior high school, pants were not part of the dress code for girls and since panyhose was way more expensive than stockings, I wore garter belts, girdles and slips for a number of years. I just giggled at some of the ads that you showed because they didn't change much for a lot of years. Even into my adult years, I remember the Sears catalog offerings for girdles, stockings, and slips, etc. We'd drive into 'town' or 'the city' to actually buy them because you'd want to be fitted, but that was a fast-disappearing trend (who would have imagined online shopping?). Thank you for another nicely researched and clearly presented history video, Nicole!

[@raraavis7782]

It's hard to imagine...garter belts and stockings as standard (even required) attire for teenaged girls. When today, they're seen as rather raunchy and decadent. How the times change!

[@doris1826]

Rara, it would have been raunchy back then, too if we had not had a very modest hemline that we were required to adhere to.

[@lexijoiner1820]

@@raraavis7782 my grandma (who is not very girly at all. I’ve never seen her in a dress only saw her in makeup at weddings and funerals) wasn’t allowed to wear pants to school until her senior year of high school. It’s crazy for me to think of her getting in trouble for pants in high school when I got in trouble for small rips at school

[@ettaz]

Doris, if you don't mind me asking, how old are you? I'm only 28, so I'm trying to get the timeline here. I was not as lucky as you, I barely knew my grandmothers, and my mom is very tomboyish and only ever wore plain cotton stretch tops instead of bras. Lately I've been exploring different fashions and started incorporating bralettes and other bra adjacent items as outerwear. Sorry if you are uncomfortable sharing your age, I'm just curious.

[@raraavis7782]

@@ettaz I hope, you get a precise answer, but generally speaking, pantyhose started to replace nylons in the early 60s. So she must have been born around 1950, I'd guess. That would certainly fit with the difference in underwear between the different generations in her family.

[@singerofsongs468]

I’m super curious to know if there was some kind of “kids these days” backlash against the rising neckline on the smock going into the 16th century. I bet it would mirror the way some folks talk about modern day visible lingerie: “Why would they design a shirt that you can see through?? How pointless and trashy!” (It should be clear but this is not my opinion btw!) The inclusion of lace and embroidery to the neckline reminds me of how lace bralettes, designed to be visible, had a huge surge in popularity a few years ago.

[@NicoleRudolph]

I think most of our aversion to modern visible underwear comes from modesty and purity culture that really developed in the 19th and 20th centuries. So much artwork from the 15th and 16th century would be scandalously bare even by modern standards! I feel like it was more likely the working class going "UGH those rich people are even managing to wear impractical fancy underwear!"

[@singerofsongs468]

@@NicoleRudolph Fascinating, thanks for the reply!!

[@limecilla7612]

As far as I know, decorated shifts were first a Muslim fashion that became popular among Iberian christian kingdoms in 13th Century. Sleeves and necklines were embroidered with blackwork (they were called "camisas margomadas") and worn under sleeveless kirtles. I don't remember if there was any backlash at the time for being a Muslim fashion, but there's a lot of iconography of the time, many related to court scenes, so probably people didn't care a lot about what preachers said. This kind of blackwork embroidered underwear maintained popularity and spreaded among Europe in 16th Century, along with the rise of Spanish power, because fashion and political and economic influence often go hand in hand.

[@josephinedykstra3383]

@@limecilla7612 That's fascinating! The common history of blackwork (in English) always starts with its arrival from Spain with Catherine of Aragon in the 16th c, so it's cool to hear more about its origins!

[@alessandrammms]

@@limecilla7612 that’s so interesting, thank you for sharing! I love learning a bit more about historical fashion from countries that don’t usually get much attention from costubers. I have looked a little into Spanish fashion history, but unfortunately my limited Spanish is a bit of a barrier. I’ll definitely search camisas margomadas to learn a bit more.

[@eviekleinwhittingham9237]

Great summary of the evolution of undergarments. To another point: I was born in the mid fifties so in my preteens and early teens (late '60s) had to wear the horribly uncomfortable garter belt with nylon stockings. Pantihose may have been available in the '60s but they were too expensive and fragile for girls. We had thick leotards instead. In elementary school we could wear pants under skirts. Thus the tunic over pants became the preferred fashion statement. In grade 9,1970, the dress code for girls excluded pants except on Fridays, and absolutely no jeans. So in spring of 1971 all the girls agreed to show up in shorts or pants on a Monday. There were too many of us to send us all home to change! The rebellion happened across the school board--across the country--because even the women teachers wanted to wear pants.

[@kayakat1869]

Good job to you girls! Paving the way for all of us in the future. ❤️

[@seasoncolorandpi]

I love dress shields! When I was on a folk dance team in college we were required to wear them in our costumes. They were so great at protecting our incredible costumes.

[@katwitanruna]

I agree with you about the linen. I did a test with three different chemises at TnRF. One linen, one silk, and one cotton which I wore all day on various types of weather making sure they were all worn on both hot and cold days. Linen won hands down.

[@blktauna]

linen is the absolute winner

[@DAYBROK3]

nice to know

[@kellysouter4381]

Comfort cloth, lovely to wear.

[@binary_terror2]

interesting. Most of the time I’ve had good luck with linen, but one of the hottest and sweatiest shirts I’ve ever owned was linen. Not sure what was going on there.

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

Linen shift, linen kirtle, woolen overdress - I've worn this combination many times and it's SO cozy even well into winter! Remove the wool overdress and It's a solid choice even on warmer days, although I don't have a summer kirtle yet so I have no idea how it'll hold up to shoe-melting levels of inner city heat.

[@madscientistenby9572]

okay but the history of this is really fascinating?? it sounds so silly but it's so interesting to see how underwear changes alongside with fashion

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

Same!

[@bossyboots5000]

I agree! I've been fascinated with undergarments lately. The idea of having a wardrobe of all linen or silk underthings sounds so nice and they look so lovely. Alas, they can't be worn comfortably under jeans, lol. Nicole, your undergarments are very nice and must be fun to play with. I love the combinations. What on earth did women do about their periods when there were no drawers/knickers? I would have thought that alone would have brought the invention of some close closed undergarment for extra protection against accidents. EDIT: I'm really enjoying your deep dives.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@bossyboots5000 Check out Abby's video about periods! She not only talked about it, she made reproductions and tried them. Great video. :)

[@bossyboots5000]

@@thebookwyrmslair6757 Cool! Thanks for the tip. I only just discovered Abby, so I hadn't had the chance to see that yet. I really should not be so excited to know how women historically dealt with periods lol

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@bossyboots5000 Why not? I am! Every video Abby, Nicole, and their cohort post is one more glimpse into wisdom that has not passed down through the generations and must be discovered anew.

[@swilson3354]

I firmly believe it's time to bring back the slip! My generation seems to think they're granny-ish but I protest! No more clinging, skirts hang better. I totally agree about linen, or in my case, cotton slips keeping you cool. It's counter-intuitive to wear an extra layer in hot weather but it's so worth it! AND! Silky camisoles worn under a top but OVER the waist of your jeans helps hide the bulky buttons and zip.

[@vbrown6445]

I grew up wearing slips because my family comes from the Caribbean. It just makes sense to have a layer between you and the likely thin dress you would wear in a hot, sunny place. Plus, it makes the dress hang better. But when I worked overseas in the Caribbean with other young Americans in the late 90s, I was the only one who came with my own slips. The other American women learned quickly that the local residents did not appreciate seeing all their bits and bobs through their sun dresses, and were often urged/encouraged/advised to wear a slip.

[@ariadne0w1]

I have 3 lengths of skirt slips, totally agree. It was shocking to me when I went to college and saw a girl wearing a white skirt, with hot pink underwear visible underneath. That's what slips are for! Certainly underutilized and underappreciated these days.

[@swilson3354]

Haha we had a girl do that with our school uniform. Gaudy, nigh on fluorescent pink bra under her white school shirt. It didn't matter what the rest of us were wearing as wearing JUST your shirt and tie was seriously uncool 🤣 even in hot June exam weather, shirt, navy jumper and we tied our ties stupidly short as was fashionable in 2009 🤣🤣 rolling the waist of your skirt (to shorten it) or not wearing your blazer outside or in the corridors was the height of rebellion at my super conservative UK grammar school...awhh the good old days 🤣 these days I like to think my fashion sense has improved. My collection of slips is vast 🙈 knee length, calf length, maxi length, full slips, half slips, warm slips, shapewear and the glorious Marks and Spencer "cool comfort" 😁

[@ah5721]

I was a lil girl in the early 90s . my mom made me wear half slips and panty hose to church. I loathed them all as a tomboy. I now wear slips so my clingy skirts don't ride up but absolutely REFUSE to wear panty hose.

[@dsvance1]

@@vbrown6445 Yeah, a lot of American women seem to think it's attractive to show all their stuff. That's it's sexy. It's not. It's sexual, but not sexy. Not the same thing. Letting it all hang out is not attractive -- it's raunchy. I keep hoping American women will pull it back some. Still waiting.

[@sarahbettany7546]

Ah! I remember my elegant grandmother bemoaning the loss of armpit protectors as she watched an exultant M.P. with wet armpits on T.V.! That was the first time I discovered they existed - she sewed some into my wedding dress later on :)

[@robynmurray6530]

The bit about wearing knickers over girdles for easy access brought up my mistake. A while back I put on a corset to break it in and put my modern knickers under it...then subsequently ripped a hole on one side of the knickers when I tried to use the bathroom a few hours later. That was the day I learned that cotton does not slide easily off the body, especially when held in place by a corset 😂

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

Honestly, corsets + modern panties are the worst combination. I'd rather go commando than struggle going to the loo like that. Of course, one can't always go commando, but it's my #1 option! 😅

[@lorisewsstuff1607]

Yep, bifurcated drawers are much easier to navigate. Unless you're menstruating. I never found a good way to deal with that in period clothing. ...well the other kind of period clothing. Honestly I was not trying to make a gross pun. 😝

[@RedRoseSeptember22]

@@lorisewsstuff1607 LOL they had something called period belts back then I think...

[@lorisewsstuff1607]

@@RedRoseSeptember22 the problem with the belts is that they get in the way about as much as modern underwear does.

[@carolempluckrose4188]

Yes, they were called sanitary belts in the UK. The sanitary towels had 2 loops, one at either end, and the belt had a hook set up. Believe me, they were damned uncomfortable. Being a teenager in school and using towels was awful during PE lessons. My Mum insisted I used these, when I knew she used tampax. I joined the Forces and on my first home leave she asked if I needed towels. To my surprise, she wasn't at all surprised I'd discovered tampax too!

[@themaddiemads]

As a history nerd, I love telling people who haven't really studied history, or who don't have much interest, about the lack of underpants for centuries. The realization that people were going commando under their shifts/shirts for so long really seems to blow their mind, and it's fun for me cause they sometimes become interested in having more history conversations.

[@pamwaldron2566]

So... Bare bottoms were the reason ladies had to ride side saddle if they rode horses at all? That, plus ladies weren't allowed even split skirts until the late 1800s-early 1900s. Apparently the sight of a woman's legs (clad in fabric or bare) drove men mad with passion. Pervs.

[@Chaotic_Pixie]

dress shields definitely are a thing and I don't think they ever stopped being a thing. My mom used them in the 1980s and 1990s when wearing sequined outfits. Dry cleaning is expensive and not always trustworthy, at least in this day and age. Dress shields + a slip meant I now own sequined dresses from my mom that I don't think have ever been washed.

[@janisi9262]

I think dress shields would be MANDATORY for sequined dresses! Imagine the friction between the sequins and your skin! Ouch!

[@k80_]

@@janisi9262 learned this lesson with my prom dress in high school. My inner biceps were fully shredded after a night of dancing

[@anthonymolloy3357]

I have no idea what algorithm led me here as a 66 year-old man interested in economics and ancient history but FASCINATING. Thank you, especially the idea that economic history (linen versus cotton) imposes imperfect solutions on our choices, even of underwear

[@VoCodebcv]

So intetesring!

[@Claudia-kz6eh]

Is it just me or does fashion over function become more of a thing in the late 1800s both in underwear and pockets (citation Bernadette Banner). I wonder if it is related to the shift in how value or wealth was displayed in clothing. Pre industrial revolution you could flex through the shear quality or quantity of materials. Post industrialisation the main way to signify wealth through your clothing was style, cut or fashionableness (designer) and so the functionality becomes a causality of the fashionability. Of course there is also the “I can afford to buy purely decorative clothing with no functional value” element. So interesting! Thank you for the lovely video.

[@titian-red]

Fascinating! I would argue that most modern dresses do better with the addition of a slip to smooth out any unwanted bulges or lines. Plus, the silkiness makes the clothing feel better. 😉

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

I wish they hadn't fallen so far out of fashion that they seem impossible to find - especially in larger sizes. If love to see cami-knickers come back, too, so I don't have to wear bike shorts under skirts to prevent thigh rub.

[@titian-red]

@@thebookwyrmslair6757 I live in the US and found several in department stores. I've used Amazon for specialty colors.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@titian-red cool! I'll have to keep my eyes open next time I'm at a mall. :)

[@jjez61]

@@thebookwyrmslair6757 I get my rights from Snag Tights and they have the long-legged ones. I think they call them Chub-Rubs. I've also seen other brands with similar styles.

[@dacrayzblaze1]

if you sew, there are patterns you can use

[@Love-and-Salt]

Literally perfect timing, I’m on a quest to make the perfect pair of undergarments (modern stuff isn’t doing it anymore) and I’m deep into the research process about what time period I want to base my design off of. Thanks!!

[@bridgetthewench]

What a fun quest! I made myself a pair of linen 1930's tap pants last year and I loved them so much, I'm making more. They're super comfy!

[@Robynhoodlum]

Same! I’ve been considering a switch to corsets for the support and with that, some sort of shift or undershirt. This gave me a lot of ideas!

[@aleciab83]

I’d like to watch a video talking about bleaching fabrics. Sun (natural) and chemical. For fabric color changing purposes and for sanitation purposes.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

I used to Bleach cloth diapers when my kids were babies. It was actually a rather fun way to spend an afternoon while hanging with a baby. The diapers would go through the delicate cycle, then I'd take them freshly washed and still damp to the backyard, squeeze a LOT of lemon juice on them, and let them dry in the sun for most of the day (I usually saved this task for a dry, sunny day with no rain in the forecast). They'd be slightly stiff when I brought them in, so I'd toss them in the dryer just to beat them up a bit and knock some stiffness out. :) But that's nearly all modern technology.

[@trenae77]

Defining friendship … Nicole listing historical videos in her line up. She gets to bustles “Abby has a great video on Butts”. 🤣🤣🤣

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

Can 100% recommend Abby's "Butts" and "Boobs" historical retrospectives! 👍👍 It's completely fascinating to see how the "ideal" feminine silhouette has changed so much over time (she covers just Western European, would be awesome to see an international version?) It really helps to put current 'hot bod' trends into a huge amount of perspective, which I think is helpful for all and especially valuable for young people?

[@SingingSealRiana]

In which she Featured herself!

[@irissalls4265]

Very very interesting. Strange to think that our chemise/slip and our supportive garments switched places, even going from having few or no supportive garments that we have extant examples of from the early middle ages and before, to now having no layer to protect our clothing from us and vice versa... What a huge change in priority and necessity!!

[@TealCheetah]

Dress shields absolutely need to come back as a thing!

[@makeda6530]

Such a beautiful collection of underthings~ Yes, please, dress shields, we need them back. It's so hard to find good deodorant that isn't 'bad' for you that doesn't also leave awful stains on your clothes. (>ᗣ

[@infamoussphere7228]

Dress shields! I made a silk 1950s two-piece dress for my wedding outfit, and it's...not terribly washable so I was thinking of wearing dress shields underneath it. Unfortunately it's not very easy to buy them anymore, so I think I'll have to make some! However, that is a decision that can be deferred to another time, as my wedding will be in winter rather than summer and I'll wear a marimekko trouser suit instead of my silk (silk will be reserved for a wedding/anniversary celebration in summer in a different country.) I also wish it was a bit easier to buy slips. I have an ancient half-slip I inherited from my mother, which I wear under some of my wool skirts, but usually when I sew wool skirts I put a silk lining in them. The 1950s two-piece expected you to wear some kind of slip so it didn't include a lining, but I lined the entire thing, partially because I made it out of silk dupion and that frays horrifically.

[@swissuz]

I have a friend that makes her own out of panty shields. They are inexpensive, disposable and you can cut them to shape your outfit perfectly.

[@bethliebman8169]

So interesting! You have a great collection of historic underwear. I was happy to hear about your '20's capsule wardrobe again. I look forward to the grand reveal when it is complete. Keep up the good work.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

I remember watching the Cherokee play in Tahlequah, OK (forgive me, I can't remember its name, just that it was about the Cherokee Nation's history in Oklahoma from the Trail of Tears through the state's founding.) The one scene I still remember vividly 30+ years later was when a teenager was getting ready for a shindig and the mother was scandalized that the young woman was only wearing ONE petticoat. Something about the shock and outrage of that mother stuck in my pre-teen mind, only to randomly play in my head ever since. 🙃

[@Bolshevik_muppet]

I recently visited the Red Onion brothel in Skagway, AK and they had some historic garments that were found when they tore out the floorboards to renovate the building. One of the garments appeared to be a combinations, but they were a style I had never seen before, where there was a sort of flap that came up between the legs and buttoned, similar to a modern bodysuit. The length of the garment overall was only slightly longer than the crotch. Skagway and the Red Onion date back to 1898, so it’s likely from the early 1900s.

[@scouttyra]

Sounds like it could be similar to an envelope chemise, generally from the 20s?

[@annbrookens945]

Fascinating video, Nicole! I was given my first garter belt at the age of 12 in 1965 and was pretty thankful that I didn't have to deal with a girdle! Slips were always a part of wearing a dress, along with the hose and garter belt. And oh, the thrill of pantyhose!!!

[@janisi9262]

This is such a wonderful video, thank you! I'm in my mid-thirties, but still grew up wearing undershirts and slips under my school uniform. This was partly for modesty, but mostly my attempt at keeping warm, because those uniforms were thin! I do like slips under my skirts to prevent the skirt from bunching up on my legs, tights, or leggings, but modern slips are ugly and don't breathe and are awful, so I picked up some Bemberg rayon and a little bit of lace and have been making my own.

[@sayhello5377]

I’m so glad for the timing of this video. I have a stressful medical situation going on and I will have my test results back on Friday. I have been anxious all evening that it’s very bad news. This should hopefully get my mind off it for a little while… if anyone reads this, I’d appreciate your thoughts and prayers. ❤

[@victoriaa.993]

Sending hugs. I hope you get good news.

[@maryeckel9682]

Sending best hopes

[@FlybyStardancer]

It’s neat to see how some things change, and how other things hang on for a surprisingly long time!

[@Chibihugs]

Who knew there was so much history and so much to learn about underwear. I'm curious if men underwear had as many evolutions over the centuries.

[@sarahwatts7152]

I'd be curious to know how they went from a shift/tunic to tighty whities

[@agcons]

There was a program in the '80s or '90s on mens' underwear on one of the cable channels - A&E perhaps. I don't remember all that much about it, but yes, there was a similar evolution, from loin cloths (so way, way back) to modern-day thongs, bikinis, boxer briefs, and so on.

[@ragnkja]

@@agcons They also had a few centuries of the shirt being their only undergarment. That’s actually why loose shirttails are considered improper in all but the most informal circumstances.

[@limecilla7612]

@@sarahwatts7152 you can find something similar to tighty whities in 15th century, because men's fashion needed to reduce fabric volume under the fashionable joined hose.

[@ladyicondraco]

The intro and the need to differentiate so many different types of under layers is so interesting by itself!

[@biguattipoptropica]

I love hearing about the practicality behind choices.

[@emilylouise9705]

This is going to sound like a daft question, but I swear I'm being serious and would be interested in an answer! I pretty much wear either tights or leggings every day, partly because I live in a pretty chilly climate, but also because I like wearing skirts and dresses - but if I don't have a layer of something or another separating my upper thighs, they tend to get a bit, well, "angry" at each other (aka chub rub!). Before drawers became popular, back when the shift was the standard undergarment, I wonder if this was ever an issue that dress-wearers experienced? Or were they just so used to it that it didn't bother them?

[@NicoleRudolph]

Just pull the shift between the legs and you're good to go!

[@raraavis7782]

@@sarar4901 Yeah, I have a hard time, seeing that working. Surely, it would slip out after a bit of walking and you can't exactly readjust anything easily under a long, heavy skirt. Definitely not while out and about. I'm confused about the hair thing as well, though. I don't have hair to speak off on my inner upper thighs. Is that unusual?

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@raraavis7782 TMI, but if your body is anything like mine you will... 😈 I got through my 20s and 30s only having to pay for a lower leg wax. Sadly, no more.

[@raraavis7782]

@@thebookwyrmslair6757 Oh no 😅 Well, there's always IPL. Got the hair on my lower legs eradicated years ago. Well worth the money. Shaving always made my skin super dry and the cost of regular waxing adds up over time, too.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@raraavis7782 I had that, too... but my hair was stubborn. 😆

[@theresaanndiaz3179]

These "History of " videos are fascinating. You do such a great job of showing the transitions and explaining the reasons for the changes. I'm looking forward to whatever you deep dive into next.

[@VeretenoVids]

Love this! I frequently had to add a little underwear history into my lectures so my students could really understand why, for example, the gentleman in Happy Accidents of the Swing was, well, very happy.

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

😂 Yeah I think most people not already into costube content think of the lower garments of the era as something like giant granny-pants... They're usually pretty startled by the whole thing of split-crotch pantalettes! 🤭 (Notably also a reason that the original cancan was so incredibly scandalous... and so popular with the dudes of the time! 🙄)

[@sharbean]

The function of the slip was also to cover the bra and knickers to smooth the silhouette and add an opaque layer when the outer garment was made of sheer and clingy fabrics.

[@MsSavvy9]

Maybe 18 or 20 years ago I went to a lingerie history exhibit and it was so exciting. I didn't even know how obsessed I would be now 😄 Just starting the video. Loving the shape and color of your hairstyle!

[@charischannah]

I have a shift in progress (as in cut out but not sewn together yet) and fully plan to wear it underneath the skirt and shirt combo I usually wear. Undershirt plus petticoat, all in one.

[@justmedidi]

this was so cool to watch. my mom got me into wearing slips under my dresses and skirts not too long ago and i appreciate the extra coverage and moisture wicking! so cool to learn more about how undergarments were back then and how they evolved. cool stuff

[@lorastafford6074]

I love getting to see your rabbit holes! Such a great video of research!

[@ginadelfina5887]

I liked the video - fashion changes through the centuries but from a slightly different point of view. Also, yes to dress shields. I sew my own out of fabric scraps (it's basically like two curved, half-moon shapes sewn together). They make clothes stay nice-looking for so much longer.

[@bookNerd151]

how do you keep them in place - but (presumably) not so securely attached that you can't remove and wash them separately? I'd LOVE to make the switch from disposable to reusable dress shields!!

[@ginadelfina5887]

@@bookNerd151 With four little safety pins per dress shield. The two little curved shapes are sewn together along the concave sides, leaving a small seam allowance. Two of the safety pins go through that and also through the seam allowance on the underarm of the clothing. The other two safety pins go at the top and bottom of dress shield to keep it from flapping around (just directly through the dress shield and through the other seam allowances of the underarm). I hope that makes sense.

[@AlexaFaie]

@@ginadelfina5887 Does the bulk from the safety pins not bug you? Or are the shields padded enough not to feel them? I'm imagining them being uncomfortable but I am pretty hypersensitive to stuff (one of my absolute favourite parts of being autistic! /s) so was wondering how they compared to other things. Like are they clothes tag level of irritating or thick seams on jeans level irritating or just more like sock elastic being forever noticeable but guess I can cope with it to keep my feet warm level? 🤣

[@ginadelfina5887]

@@AlexaFaie Maybe more like the socks? I use very small safety pins, so I think they are hardly noticeable most of the time.

[@dawnmoriarty9347]

Ahhh! So THAT'S why my grandmother had little safety pins in the arms of every dress! She never explained why, although we certainly knew her rule about a safety pin through the knicker elastic of every......single......,pair she owned (In case of elastic breaking). When she died, I found more than 100 sets of knickers, unused, with the packaging opened enough on each one to insert a safety pin!

[@ebelskivers123]

Thank you so much for this video! I'm starting to convert my wardrobe into 1920's-30's style and I needed this info

[@kellysouter4381]

Going public? Bold!

[@spameranne]

thanks for another wonderful deep dive into fashion history, Nicole! highly informative and thorough, as always. :) I've been wanting to design some new-timey underthings that use techniques from different historical periods, but it's been really difficult to envision them clearly so far. your videos always help make greater sense of any costuming confusion, and this one's no exception. wishing you well!

[@josephinedykstra3383]

Same- I want a Lengberg bra top and a pair of Regency short stays to wear every day

[@SarahFerguson264]

You are wasted, Miss Nicole! You're so talented, knowledgeable and fascinating to watch and listen to that you should be on TV. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge. Love from the 🇬🇧 X

[@inkenhafner7187]

Going into TV with such formats would be a waste. Theyvd shredd it and roughly stitch it back up to some mainstream, entertaining meaninglessness. Itvs great the way it is here. Plus fewer and fewer people watch TV. That's why they butcher everything to make it fit for "everyone".

[@sophiamontano3705]

You should do ASMR of classical books for naps. You’re voice is so relaxing to me! Great video, thanks!

[@agimagi2158]

Such a lovely collection of historical underwear, I'm especially fond of you 17th century one, I need to make myself something like that cuz those sleeves 😍. And I loved learning about the evolution, very well made video as always!

[@cinemaocd1752]

This video really helped me to connect the dots on so many things for me. I have some camis from the teens that now I'm realizing were meant to be worn UNDER a bra. It makes so much more sense to me because they are just so delicate that I think they would not have worked over a more structured support.

[@13lilsykos]

I'm so glad you mentioned that cotton wasn't the best option for undergarments. Ofc, I'm not going to get into why the US picked cotton over hemp and all that but, like I said, I'm just glad you mentioned it.

[@dsvance1]

We know why, and the day is coming when that wrong will be righted.

[@noobulon4334]

Hemp isn't the greatest option for underwear either as its a bit coarse, but we used to grow way more flax in the us too!

[@krachr1]

Miss Rudolph this was an amazing report. I have wondered about all this information my entire life. It felt like a book that I will put into my good bookcase with the glass doors that I will reference often for the rest of my life. I can not compliment you enough for this vid! Thank You Thank You!

[@TheUselessbuthappy]

I remember helping my grandma put on her girdle before church. I was raised by my grandma. She was born in 1931 and me in 1989. I grew up with girdles, slips, and pantyhose being a very important thing. Also my grandma called underwear "drawers/draws". I haven't worn any of those things since I've moved out, i dont even wear bras. But I do like thigh high socks with dresses and shirts which is apparently not fashionable haha

[@insulaarachnid]

Thanks Nicole, this was really interesting. I agree with bringing back dress shields!

[@jennifercourtemanche9793]

Please keep going down an entire rabbit warren! I love these deep dives.

[@chophouse404]

Wait a minute. Clothes used to have armpit shields?! What petition can I sign to bring these back? I've just been adding little squares of fabric to the armpits of my favorite shirts and dresses or extra strips of binding for sleeveless things....

[@NicoleRudolph]

I've started seeing them again! There's loose ones and ones built into t-shirts now (Numi does the later)

[@Lolino]

They're actually for sale in sewing shops sometimes, the ones meant to just be basted in and then removed and washed. I've heard of ones that basically work as a period pad, with a sticky side, but honestly that just sounds all kinds of wasteful? You can also make your own from flannel or something and just baste in and remove and wash.

[@charischannah]

I knew a costumer who used the sticky dress shields to minimize how often she had to wash all the clothes during the run of a show, and in that instance, the disposable ones make sense.

[@agcons]

They were very popular with women of my mother's vintage, who came of age during World War II. It saved a lot of money on dry-cleaning and extended garment life. I've long seen them in sewing shops - not always, but frequently.

[@lenabreijer1311]

They went out of style in the late 50s as washing machines became more common. Washing clothes without a machine is a really big chore and the armpit shields meant your blouse stayed clean longer. My mother didn't get a washing machine until the 60s and it was one of the chores I helped with. I LOVE washing machines.

[@florenna]

Love how the simple linen shift dress shape, seen first on about 5:40 here, is actually *the undergarment of choice* for most of history! :) Simple yet elegant, and also very practical. Bring it back, I say!

[@RychaardRyder]

22:16 i suddenly thought of the closet historian and im sure she would absolutely love this

[@smeastwest]

I learn sooooo much from you, Nicole! Your videos are packed to the gills with knowledge. The very gills!

[@SusanS588]

Just an aside-loved seeing your Nessie tea infuser! Just a little extra tag to help me distinguish this video from your others that are definitely worth re-watching.

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

It’s all good, Nicole! Izabel from PriorAttire wore bright pink bike shorts when she did her myth busting video!

[@neonpinkqueen1403]

I think I need that style of smock with the big poofy sleeves I know that's not exactly what it's meant for but length the hem and potentially some gussets,,, nightgown of my dreams

[@ragnkja]

They were used as sleepwear as well :)

[@bossyboots5000]

I was also thinking of making historical undergarments to use as sleepwear. 😊

[@nospoonfulofmayonnaiseforme]

go for it!!

[@andreahargrove6809]

Was the access to piped water for washing and machines not a contributing factor for everything? Earlier centurys washing meant shleping copious amounts of water from a well, boiling it( go get fire wood) etc. a contributing factor to the change of undergarments ?

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

SnappyDragon just posted a great video about medieval Washing Day / The Great Wash on her channel! And English Heritage has a Victorian laundress video to go with their Mrs. Crocombe videos. :)

[@KazzieBB]

this is amazing timing! i finished a modernized chemise just yesterday for a ren faire :0

[@relax2dream164]

At first as a young teenager if I wanted to wear stockings I used a harder belt. But within a year, as hemlines soared, pantyhose came in. What a great invention. ❤️🇨🇦

[@cheryldenkins1597]

My mother worked for J P Steven's hosiery in California during that time period. She was part of the design team that changed where the hose met the panty. Before that the nylon of the panty came partway down the thigh before changing to hose, showing under those short skirts we wore.

[@lizfrancisco4787]

Yes, bring back the dress shields!!!

[@sabrina9333]

You are living my dream job 💖

[@MonaSkovJensen]

Very interesting! Thank you for making this video!

[@sallyk7363]

Thank you for your wonderful and informative video I've always been an avid fan of Fashions past and the Beauty precision and fabrics by which they were produced I really enjoyed this thank you

[@amcluckie9837]

Absolutely love your videos. It is so fascinating, and so interesting to see how what we wear has changed over the centuries. Thank you.

[@MollyPatricia5]

Great video! I was surprised by the colorful underwear!

[@theresacopeland2451]

this was so interesting and entertaining. makes me appreciate the (potential, if well-fit!) comfort of modern elasticated bras, but it also makes me want to sew some swishy gathered linen things.... thanks for another great video!

[@amyschmidt1113]

My gramma was born in 1900 and in the 1920s she was employed full time and still unmarried. She bought tons of clothes hats and 1920s underwear lacy slips and all the things described here and when us granddaughters were in our teens (1970s) she got it all out and let us keep some. What a luxurious treasure it seemed!

[@SD-hs2pk]

The colors on your main set, beautiful!

[@saritshull3909]

Can we start a petition for linen tap pants? I think that's the all-around best solution for modern times and clothing styles. I'm going to try to make some. Please let me know if anyone has a good pattern.

[@RefractedStarlight]

Did you make some? I know Vera Venus has instructions on how to draft your own custom tap pants pattern (I have yet to try it, I have so many projects on the backburner)

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Thank you for another great video!! I love following you down the rabbit hole! Any time you want to do a research video I’m there! So very much information it’s always great to learn fun things about history!

[@shannonmurphy7788]

This video was so helpful, after watching, I was able to properly identify a mislabeled garment.

[@rat3367]

This video just reminded me of my abandoned half done 1880s combinations that I measured poorly and now is too small on the thighs and needs more overall length

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Add a decorative waist band for length and some gores for the thighs. Make sure that they are both decorative so you can say it was a design choice!

[@karladenton5034]

Insertion lace covers (expands) a multitude of issues LOL.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

What to add by decorative it could be a different weave of the fabric or a different fabric all together. Piecing is period so the sky’s the limit. Heck add something completely different that amuses you. Decorative doesn’t have to be complicated it can just be a flare of colour. Just because nothing survives with different fabrics doesn’t mean it wasn’t done. Given the price of fabric and some of the random things found in linings it’s a good bet that sometimes people just made do with what they had.

[@rat3367]

If I could kiss y'all. I would. Thanks for the advice, I'll probably add decorative lace to spruce it up.

[@dsvance1]

When my mom and I were making my trousseau (yes, I'm that old!), we measured wrong for one of the skirts and it came out too small around, even though I had a 24" waist. We simply inserted a two-inch wide strip to each side seam to correct the mistake. It looked like a design decision and worked quite well.

[@devh6168]

ohhhh that 1400s smock.... the perfect shape for an every dress!! I know there's like a million tutorials out there, but do you mind sharing which pattern you used? my body shape is similar-ish to yours. or perhaps you have your own tutorial that I missed?

[@AlexaFaie]

Morgan Donner has a great video on making a simple smock. There's some simple maths involving measuring your body and that tells you the size of the rectangle you cut out. Then you cut the triangle shapes from the rectangle which makes it the correct trapezoid shape and the triangles are then the perfect size to be used as the underarm gusset.

[@devh6168]

@@AlexaFaie Yes I've seen that.

[@miippi]

Where was this video when I had to research this for a theater production? Next year, we're gonna do everything historical undergarments up.

[@Mongoly8]

"new inventions they are great right?" I laughed so hard at this... shiny (new) object syndrome is such a problem.

[@sarar4901]

So are the split drawers basically just to prevent chub rub initially? Since they're under the shift anyway, I can't see why they would be needed to protect the skirts from the skin. As a chronic chub rub sufferer it tickles me to imagine my foremothers inventing a whole garment to avoid it and looking at our modern panties in horror that they can't do that job at ALL. Or perhaps it's a mix of chub rub and sweat control (which are related aims).

[@NicoleRudolph]

The benefit of long linen skirt like garments under everything is that pulling them up between your legs is VERY effective and can't be seen. Loads of experience with this in Virginia summers!

[@sarar4901]

@@NicoleRudolph Interesting! I would not have guessed that that would stay put well enough to help much. Can't beat experimental archaeology for stuff like that.

[@brendavanmatre7005]

Thank you, this was very well done and informative

[@carmendavila272]

I finally just ordered an all-cotton bra, after my “normal” polyester ones from Target started giving me a burning rash. It’s getting hard to find clothing that isn’t polyester 😫

[@Cricket2731]

It's really rough finding clothes when you're allergic to polyester!

[@ezra5500]

I absolutely love it when you do videos like this!

[@bluestar.8938]

Fascinating. Thank you lovely Nicole : )

[@robstrck8]

You popped up unexpectedly in my feed a couple weeks back and lead me to viewing some of your others. I really enjoy your content so I felt it was time to hit that subscribe button.

[@kathrynmckay1638]

I am very new to seeing and I have been looking for a pattern for a smock, exactly like the 15th century smock that you’ve shown. Do you know if a pattern or is it that magic you do with no pattern? Thank you I love your channel.

[@katwitanruna]

Look online for Drea’s custom smock pattern. It’s free.

[@kathrynmckay1638]

Thank you SO MUCH! 💕

[@Betsyschugar]

Bernadette and Abby also have videos on making shifts/smocks that are pretty simple like the one Nicole has, and Elin Abramsson (sewingthroughthepast) has a video on a different style of shift. All of them are pretty good about showing you how to find what measurements you need!

[@kathrynmckay1638]

Thank you! That gives me an excuse to scroll through more of these videos - what a lovely community.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

Morgan Donner has one, too, which I like because she's reviewing an old blog post after wearing the shift for a decade, so notes how she would change it as she makes herself a new one.

[@emilyrln]

Those step-ins are super heckin' cute!

[@sweetlorikeet]

I could definitely use some 'dress shields', I'm allergic to antiperspirant and am a naturally sweaty person T_T

[@ah5721]

this is fascinating!

[@bespoke_heirlooms]

Thank you for this well researched video, I appreciate the effort that you put into your work and I enjoy how you show your collection on your body, so that someone with no knowledge can see a visual representation of the styles and changes!

[@Rustconfetti]

So intresting! Can you pelase do one on men? 🙏🙏

[@thespia]

So happy I just found this channel! This is my type of video :)

[@robinsiciliano8923]

Mind blown! This was fascinating tbh.

[@distaff2935]

Wondering how they dealt with laundering all the fine lace/smocking/embroidery on those shifts with high, gathered necklines. Also, thanks for the correction on the split-drawars (spell?) - I had understood them to have originated with hoops and crinolines. Anyway, those things make SO much sense! I wear full skirts all the time, and constantly regret that I have yet to make a pair.

[@jayteadesigns]

Hi, I just discovered your channel, and I love it! 😄

[@blancaluna572]

i really thought cotton was better, thanks for the video, it was interesting AND helpful 💖💖🤷🏽‍♀️

[@ariadne0w1]

I recommend watching Nicole's detailed video on fabrics - she has one on linen, and one on cotton, that explains the properties/pros/cons of each. Basically, the part of the plant that linen comes (stem) from takes water from one place to another and is naturally wicking, whereas the part of the plant that cotton comes from (around the seeds) is meant to disperse/rot away. So linen is more cooling, more durable, and more resistant to retaining odor and bacteria.

[@blancaluna572]

@@ariadne0w1 thanks!!

[@henriettanovember4733]

Thank you for sharing yet another very interesting video!🌷