No Heat Service Call Zone Valve End Switch

I am on a no heat service call. I find the zone valve end switch even though pressed in by zone valve motor isn't closing the circuit to bring on the boiler.

[@styldsteel1]

Thank you for providing the clearest most concise step by step instructional video. One gets tired of HVAC specialists trying to clean my clock.

[@swiftjeff]

You dropped the screwdriver and I said "ha! I'm not the only one!". Repairing janitorial equipment I drop stuff every day. My hands don't always work right when the mind is everywhere else at once.

[@alabama7636]

Nice to see a professional who knows that appearance is part of a quality repair.

[@jasonbrus1273]

I was on a roof working on a 40 ton intellapack unit today my helper dropped some screws I told him he needed to go back to school... He didn't get it I thought it was funny. Great vids keep it up.

[@keno8503]

Another great job, learning a lot, keep the videos coming!

[@zhang32796]

Keep up with the good work! Thanks for sharing

[@andreagate542]

Hi im new the boiler hydronics game and have a question regarding the end switch.....does the 24v that passes through this end switch first originate from the boiler,,then once the end switch closes does that same 24v travel back down to the boiler to through the safeties and on to the gas valve(regarding this boiler you are working on) ??? Thanks for sharing!!!!

[@aircooledtx]

Good repair,on Zone .

[@markneuman2686]

Hi, my zone valve stopped working a few days ago. The motor makes a buzzing sound all the time, so I tested the voltage and it shows constant 6V whether there is or not a call for heat. I checked the transformer it seemed to be fine but just in case I replaced it but the issue did not go away. I also switched my Ecobee thermostats around, same issue. I replaced the wire going to the thermostat, same issue. I have a 2 zone heating and cooling system with a boiler. Ecobees are connected with Rc, Y, G and C wire from a handler and Rh from transformer going to both Ecobees and coming back as Ws with each connected to the respective zone valve motor. The the other zone valves motor wires are connected together to the negative wire from the transformer. Just in case I checked the relay on the zone valve and it is fine. At this point I have 0 ideas what could be wrong and a bit short on money to call a professional. Could you please let me know what could be wrong?

[@adrianthoroughgood1191]

I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?

[@hsdoor414]

Very nice work. But the camera cannot really shot the working detail. Your words can help me to follow! Really helpful! Keep things up! Thank you once again to resolve my wife ‘s complaint.

[@sldulin]

I'm not in the field but enjoy your vid's because you are obviously knowledgeable, methodical, purposeful. Would appreciate just a little more intro to your diagnostics when you walk into a situation like this. I'm distracted by "wow, nice pool!" while you have already started thinking critically about the problem, how to narrow it down.

[@jxtdenco6984]

My Honeywell zone won't shut off unless I tap the motor. As soon as I do that (with the thermostat turned down all the way), it'll shut off. Do I need to replace the motor? And I am a little confused as to how which voltage motor I would need. How do I tell by looking at the valve? All of the motors may have been replace at one time or another and I don't know what voltage the motors should have.

[@eugeneshealthproject]

Why do the Honeywell end switch valves stick open? Only two years old.

[@mik693]

Links or information on the screwdriver and led light used in the video ?, please

[@italyworrier]

Hello from Bergen County !! great vid man !! keep em up . fuck any one who dont like them !!

[@roykressin8229]

what caused the click around

[@4825sardis]

I have 6 zone valves, 3 won't open via thermostat. But if I manually lock them open the heat goes through because other 3 zone valves work fine with their thermostats and the boiler and pump work. I took the thermostat off the wall and couldn't get a spark from touching the 2 wires together. Where could the problem be? Sounds to me like there's no signal getting through in the wiring.

[@throttlebottle5906]

I don't recall if that model is spring loaded for the actual valve position or not. if it's not a tight failing valve will eat the gearing in no time and you'll be back....

[@BillyN31]

Just had the same call last week. Zone was for the indirect tank so I just swapped it for the 2nd floor till we got the head delivered