Norway: Stetind South Pillar solo project (720p)

This is a video of my attempt to solo Stetind, a beautiful mountain in my country Norway. The rock is amazing, pure and solid. And the place is very scenic, with the mountain raising 1392 meters straight from the fjord. The climb is up to 6b, but most is 4th and 5th class terrain. Very nice and clean climb.
You may think I'm crazy where I'm without rope, but it's actually a safety technique to move fast on easy pitches and not spend more time on the wall than necessary to avoid getting caught in the dark or bad weather midways, which was really good I used on this climb. And when free soloing, you climb well within your margins, so that you know you "can't" fall.
It shows that even though weather forecast looks good, it's important to always be prepared for the worst. I knew there was an escape ledge 2 pithces up, and went for that instead of 15-30 rapells into the clouds, depending if I find the right route down in low visibility.
The first quote is from Peter Wessel Zapffe before his ascent up the normal route of Stetind in 1937. It translates "I lay here feeling that I hate this cursed mountain, as it has power over my mind".
Sorry for any bad editing, not easy with a GoPro-camera. Best to turn on HD

[@SuperRickyjenkins]

very brave man that was an awesome video you have contributed to the planet well well done

[@adrienalex7262]

You prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!

[@coltenkobe4511]

@Adrien Alex instablaster =)

[@adrienalex7262]

@Colten Kobe thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@adrienalex7262]

@Colten Kobe it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thank you so much, you really help me out!

[@coltenkobe4511]

@Adrien Alex Glad I could help xD

[@plsejensen5237]

This is insane, how on earth is this not viral?

[@Cragcloud]

That is one amazing achievement! Well done! Just subbed to your channel and hoping to see more :)

[@eflaaten]

Thanks man, your channel looks great btw!

[@Cragcloud]

Thank you, Erik 😄

[@nordicclimber1090]

That's amazing, great vid! Me and my friend did this trad this summer and noticed we never climbed the chimney but ended up climbing a thin steep crack that was a bit spicy instead. I think it may be the 7th pitch you mentioned. I haven't soloed it yet tough.. :D

[@inleblack1136]

Madman.. Love it!!

[@xMaGiiSK]

Uforståelig at du har nerver til det der! Wicked!

[@queen-elsa-arendelle]

Wait, that mountain looks familiar.

[@erikballerify]

nice video and impressive work!!

[@mrlillo]

Fantastisk bra Erik, vannvittig imponerende !!! :o)

[@sopranocat3270]

God you are amazing

[@Lozerpunmpkin]

THis video is awesome

[@yuvrajtoor2623]

you got some big balls mate

[@KeyboarderGio]

Climbing+A perfect Circle??? YOU ARE AN HERO MAN!!!! I am both a climber and a huge Tool's fan..... I loved the way you climbed on the first pitches, and i find quite incredible how strong-mind you are (we both know that the thought "i might fall" is always there and has great influence on some passages). How did you got so good at climbing on cracks? Best regards from Italy!!!

[@CabalisOrder]

sick!!!

[@eazyab]

dude! you got yourself into some SHIT! awesome.

[@kierangcollins]

nice

[@rafawyszynski8960]

we are going there in three weeks to do the same route. I hope that the weather will be ok. do you know what temperature and rainfall can be expected in late June?

[@eflaaten]

Late June should more or less be the dryest and time warmest time of year. Also there is 24 hours sunlight, so you don't have to worry about getting caught in the dark

[@magnusboyd6613]

Godt jobba!

[@P9pa]

Bra jobbat!!

[@iloveadventures6710]

The best part of the video was the wooden cup

[@olemann77]

Sykt rått... fjellcreds to you

[@MunkochMy]

Fy fan, här ligger man i lä när man tycker man är duktig med sina Ferrator....

[@omercakmak3099]

Why cut the video at 8:33? It was so exciting you couldn't find good enough holds and were looking around for an easy way up and then it cuts and magically you're up

[@eflaaten]

I guess I found some holds :-O

[@Aditya-sz5he]

Bruh how they come down???

[@embryro]

Flott video! Hadde du klatret ruten før forut? Hva bruker du som brems når du solerer, gri-gri, Silent Partner? Får du masse pes fra andre klatrere når de ser du klatrer alene?

[@eflaaten]

Hadde ikkje klatra den før. Brukte Edelrid Eddy, syns den er bedre enn modifisert GriGri. Lite pes, men folk som ikkje forstår kor mye risikovurdering som ligger i planleggingen, og i hver bevegelse syns jo ofte det er galskap

[@iannenseth9240]

Utrolig kult! =) Men du mener vel "Peter Wessel Zapffe" og ikke "Hans Petter Zapffe", vedrørende sitatet i starten?

[@paulineerikaeklund3338]

Is i magen och målorienterad... Och kanske lite småtokig, men du gör det bra!

[@TrungNgoTrong13]

Could you share the system you used for self-belay? Grigri, microtraxion, or just clove hitch.

[@eflaaten]

70m rope stacked in a small backpack, running out through the top of the backpack, through a guiding carabiner on top of the shoulderstrap, through an Edelrid Eddy and into an upwards pull anchor with screamer, with a long prusik to hold the anchor upwards. You need to experiment with rope thickness. Thin and light but not too thin for the Eddy. I prefer this over modified Grigri, the rope runs smoother. I marked the rope at 5m and 10m so I know when the end is near, and I have a figure 8 knot in the end so it can't slip through.

[@TrungNgoTrong13]

Awesome, this is the exact information I am looking for long time. I have never use the Eddy, but do you need a chest harness to hold it upward in case of an upside down fall like GriGri ?

[@eflaaten]

I just Girth hitch a small Dyneema-sling to it and wear it around the neck

[@feignedconcerns4208]

Yes sir

[@dedododo-dedadada7957]

Too scary for me!

[@ScottLRoyal]

Ju got maja wayvos.

[@torleiolsen]

Fuckings imponerande!

[@MrLeanath]

What the actual fuck did i just watch!?

[@pawetrochimiak7895]

Overhand knot on dyneema?

[@eflaaten]

Good observation, I made sure to put protection early from the anchor to minimize risk of factor 2 falls. Safest would be to make anchors from the dynamic rope, but then one has to "sacrifice" some meters ;)

[@Kyungshinyoon]

Syke faen