Now That's What I Call a First Ascent - EP2 -The Walk of Life -James Pearson

[@jingshelpmaboab]

I notice that there hasn't been much mention (if any) of the toothbrush James carries. I think dental hygiene is unfortunately often overlooked in extreme climbing and James sets an excellent example.

[@nanaandbump.]

Its even more impressive because he is British. They don't even have toothbrushes over there

[@That-guy-who-climbs]

@@nanaandbump.naw that’s crazy

[@sabbatini2372]

Very impressed by the quality of these short films. Everything is just right about them - photography, pacing, music, editing, the whole tone of them - and that's even before considering the climb itself and James himself, who is thoughtful and unpretentious.

[@chloedancer]

That fall was terrifying!

[@HotAches]

Yea his scream is one of terror

[@annamariavanwyk6577]

my heart rate spiked like you wont believe.

[@johns3106]

Not to trivialize falling on minimal gear (always scary) but the editing made the fall look twice as long as it really was.

[@Noold]

@@johns3106 yea I'd like to the a wide shot. still a fucking GNARLY whipper

[@abuzarov]

did the last piece of protection get ripped off the wall? I can't see

[@Drinkyoghurt]

That fall was a thing of nightmares.

[@1987Magnus]

Drinkyoghurt I’m just glad his gear held

[@juliusgrisette]

I love the shot at 3:45. you have watched enough of the climb to get sweaty palms and then it pans out boom. that is fucking amazing cinematography. thank you so much to the editor for that shot.

[@dipper0yawn]

had to chalk up just watching this

[@charliehitchen5263]

Great effort. Can't see there being a queue forming for this one any time soon.

[@Totalavulsion]

The half 5 morning start is terrifying enough

[@bjaminbjamin]

incredible looking pitch. scary ass gear... that would be bolted around here.... sick send!

[@MorrisOnions06]

`that would be bolted around here...." Sad

[@amsbeats841]

I see no problem with it as it could quite literally be the difference between life and death. The rock doesn't mind.

[@MorrisOnions06]

@@amsbeats841 Bolting removes the original sense of adventure and exploration from rock climbing, it reduces it to not much more than vertical exercise. Ive climbed traditional and bolted routes, and I know which I prefer.

[@amsbeats841]

@@MorrisOnions06 so as long as the bolts aren't filling the cracks where you'd place protection couldn't you still climb it as a trad route if you wish to? And people who don't want to take the risk or don't know how to trade climb can still climb it?

[@cameronbryan5195]

@@amsbeats841 the issue is it leaves an escape option if there's bolts, this changes the headgame of a climb. So yes it could be bolted and you could still climb it trad but it's not the same because to be honest if it's been done trad and you can't do it then train and get better, rather than make it easier.

[@eyescreamcake]

No pro for 10 meters, in the rain, with your belayer underwater? Nope.

[@badbenjy]

I knew the outcome.. But still made our noises when that fall happened. Sensational assent, still gets me.

[@SomersErik]

It's nice to know top climbers can shit their pants as well :-). Brass nuts mate!

[@JWoodcock]

That's a crazy geological formation!

[@gustau4764]

That was epic! Rain, tide moving in, the lot!

[@conserve_climber]

That was amazing; you could really feel that one! Great effort great film!

[@lindseymckirdy1830]

is this the route that D Macleod second ascended and downgraded to an E8-9? that's not to diss James achievement! anyone climbing at this level is hard core the numbers are only important to the superhuman that can climb at those grades!

[@lukeempty3386]

Yeah he claimed it was a E12 because it felt easier than Rhapsody that he failed to climb which was a E11 (set by dave) So Dave Macleod climbed it and downgraded it to E9. So he graded a E12 having never completed a E11

[@maxbowen6482]

It was clearly a big mistake for him to grade it so high that someone else downgraded it by 3/4 grades😂😂😂😂

[@lindseymckirdy1830]

Just the enthusiasm, of callow youth He climbed raphsody it’s been filmed DM met him at the top of the climb I still say it’s a fucking hard core climb DM down graded that’s fine he’s hard core too so knows the score it was a second ascent he had the experience He wasn’t dismissive just matter of fact It’s a E9 because ....

[@thomasyates3078]

Yep, and people were real pricks about it. James isn't the first climber that's overestimated his skill, and he sure won't be the last. He was practically hounded out of the country.

[@apostatepaul]

Amazing! What a terrifying fall. How do you come back from them? That would put me off for good. Do you practice falling a lot? Well done Sir! Total respect

[@bernhardlangers778]

To be honest: He is quite lucky there to fall way out from the wall. Otherwise he would likely have tipped and tumbled and broken quite a lot of bones. Falling great heights is okay, but not on positive walls where you don't fall out. This fall is one of the scariest I have ever seen (excluding grounders).

[@adammcneill8637]

intense, can hear the fear in his breathing

[@christinegerard4974]

Thanks for sharing! It was great to look at this ...fantastic ..

[@stevehorner8302]

Totally spot on

[@kangdanlin]

holly cow...what a drop

[@constantinosschinas4503]

they made it feel double with editing.

[@Alan-gi2ku]

OMG that was one hell of a fall

[@constantinosschinas4503]

became double in length by editing. ...

[@Gregorovitch144]

Jesus Christ that wall is gonna separate the big persons from the little persons. First 10 meters of it should suffice for that I would think. "Walk of Life", you say? "Relentless Terror" more like.

[@pedroaragao5977]

Great story!

[@busternick1]

The mind is as crucial as the finger tips.

[@JOPEYDOPE]

Holy fuck, the sounds of that gear popping on the lob 😳

[@arshiai8385]

What is the song name is amazing for climbing

[@samkelson7990]

How many pieces ripped out in that giant fall at 7:18? Had to be at least one right?

[@constantinosschinas4503]

not so giant. they made it look so much by editing. plus, route was downgraded from E12 to E8/9.... ridiculous.

[@joe_3y3s]

Is that the same wall that Hazel FIndlay sent Spice Girl on? so gnarly

[@HotAches]

joe T same wall, different route. Hazel climbs Once up on a time in the south West, also E9

[@joe_3y3s]

nice! didn't realise it was called that. crazy

[@sethcornell1273]

Spice girl was the name of the film about her climbing it.

[@jameshillreid]

What is the song just before the fall?

[@robinbobbin1222]

Excellent!

[@fransisguyon5163]

and the Belayer had to swim for it?!! ?

[@drofngudmundsdottir1489]

Wow!

[@evanbarnes9984]

Seriously that music was dope. I'd love to find out what it is! And damn, that whipper!

[@warpighammerjr6440]

New spotter?

[@ryanrutledge4946]

Could someone briefly explain how they go and get the clips down after he tops it?

[@sampfeiffer3372]

I think he will just abseil picking them up (like he abseiled to clean the dirt & tick with chalk)

[@TheAaronp17]

You create an anchor at the top of the climb and remove the gear as you repel down. He wouldn't leave them there that gear is worth a fortune.

[@paul-emilefrancois3731]

is it the surcoated route we see in the movie"rédemption"?

[@5tr4nge75]

Yes.

[@foolswithtools6714]

Red sky in the morning...

[@seanmorris]

Red sky at night, barn's alight!

[@DanLocks]

Are screamers not a thing in Britain? Is there a reason they would not help?

[@arthurv8905]

if by screamers you mean the likes of Ondra and Sharma, who make a lot of noise whilst climbing, then I have not noticed a great deal of it over here. That may be for a couple of reasons though, primarily that the style of climbing seen in this video requires delicate footwork, balance, and great precision (traits very common in british trad). The value of screaming is that sudden exhalation results in the tightening of the core muscles, allowing the climber to really squeeze and bare down on those hard moves, but this generally means you are climbing on steep ground. Screaming on a slab would be of no real benefit (and probably just a sign that you are shitting it and not really in control), since the difficulty of that style is not in how much power you can exert. The other reason could have something to do with the generally understated nature of British climbers meaning they are less likely to scream while they climb.

[@DanLocks]

Arthur V no. These: yatesgear.com/climbing/screamer/index.htm. They reduce peak forces on gear. They're used more in ice climbing, I think.

[@largeformatlandscape]

They wouldn’t absorb enough energy to make a difference in big falls like this

[@johns3106]

@Tim Parkin Of course they would make a difference! They start activating at 500lbs of force, and continue ripping (thereby reducing the load on the anchor) until they're fully extended or the force decreases below the activation threshold...they are very useful for small and/or marginal placements that might not take much of a load if used with a normal quick draw. They have been tested (in a "lab" setting) and it has been found that a shoestring(!!) can catch a significant amount of dropped weight if used with a Screamer!

[@largeformatlandscape]

@@johns3106 Yeah - and for a big fall, your force has only just started once they reach the limit. Great for small falls at big fall factors and static like systems (near belay with grigri) but not for large falls where you can get continuous 500lb forces that last for longer than 3ft (which is the approximate energy absorption capability of the standard screamer at 500lb). Here's some more commentary (see rgold's reply) - www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107887550/when-to-use-screamers?page=5

[@sambrocklebank9028]

don't know if it says it here but is that church bay in Anglesey?

[@HotAches]

nope, Devon.

[@sambrocklebank9028]

+Hot Aches Productions ah right thanks haha, the starting shot looked a lot like Church Bay :')

[@kangdanlin]

what climbing shoes you are using?

[@ikodashiigo]

5.10 Anasazi VCS are the shoes he used!

[@kangdanlin]

@@ikodashiigo thank you

[@ikodashiigo]

@@kangdanlin No problem, glad to help! :)

[@constantinosschinas4503]

he is using these kind of shoes that allows him to grade a route 4 vrades higher, thinking he will get away with it... Walk of Life E8....

[@AutonomousPlayground]

@@constantinosschinas4503 bro this was years ago, your name suggests your not even english, and you're writing 5+ hate comments on the video?? who hurt you 😂😂 very cringe

[@subasurf]

Fuck me that whipper made me almost shit myself.

[@madboy5686]

what time is the fall at ?

[@lulupokes]

rad

[@chad4853]

I think a runner/sling something on those first two would be rad so you will not get rope drag. Geesh, you got brass sir. :)

[@Bermix13]

The Fall of Death*

[@guillaumedupieux2216]

C'teu dalle de ouf !! 😯🙃😨

[@ClimbMitBourbon]

Is this really E12?!?! I thought E11 was the highest grade.

[@3stooges0]

Think it got downgraded to E9. Still nails either way

[@maxbowen6482]

It got downgraded by Dave McLeod to e8/9. Catastrophic balls up for James Pearson when he graded something 3/4 E numbers higher than it potentially should be

[@constantinosschinas4503]

James Pearson kiddo wannabe top climber.

[@2rfg949]

wow

[@JimmyBlackhall]

rest easy brother

[@Del1Dub]

JSBC he done for?

[@johnmcclane264]

tuber the wrong way around? 2:06

[@eclipsearchery9387]

Yup, you think he could find a belaying who knows how to thread the device! But seriously James that was a very cool watch. Big respect.

[@largeformatlandscape]

Less resistance, less load on anchors

[@phillipfailor-rich9470]

aid

[@kevans1716]

Free solo headspace and the man says "SLACK?" 🤦‍♂️

[@cityless7798]

a trouser filler for sure

[@TheHallucinogenius]

Not E12.

[@Tormentor]

Climb it, prove it, downgrade it :).

[@wesNeill]

There is no consensus, and if you read Dave Macleod's blog, the guy you are using to justify armchair criticisms, you will see that he says quite clearly that E9 is his opinion only, and that it needs more repeats before a grade is settled on. Hence, Mr. Mcleoud agrees with Tormentor: Cimb it, prove it.

[@5tr4nge75]

I think the consensus is that all of Pearson's routes were over-graded, by a lot. He left the country in shame because of it. 3 out of 3 downgraded, says a lot really.

[@jimtomlinsom1279]

Birket said it's about E9. That'll do for me.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

E8/E9. Tsarlatans always existed, will always exist.

[@ToppaliniTube]

i dont see why climbing something on a slacked out toprope doesn't ever count

[@j90648]

british climbing has some very very strong ethics about the rules of climbing, especially for trad routes such as these. A slack toprope also provides the climber with good mental security (unfair advantage) due to the nature of relying on an anchor vs relying on placed gear. As well as this, climbing on a slack toprope also would mean that you do not need to place gear as you go, meaning the difficulty of the climb is eased significantly.

[@markdavies6495]

Amazing ascent. Please lose that fucking music.

[@Mrrogerthurman]

Very very impressive. Has anyone noticed that most hard types in the UK are skinny, ugly and have something of a northern accent. Funny that.

[@garconrouge9099]

he's one of the least graceful pro climbers I've watched climb, you sure can't question his strength though. crazy climb.

[@hoecorn]

I saved this flick to my favorites every time I watch it I get Gripped reminding me of my years long ago rock climbing in Phx.

[@WeHaveSomuchHeart]

The belayer stood closer to the water and they zoomed in to make it look like a stressful situation; but then when James gets the send and the belayer is standing safe out of the way of the water... Why the deception? The FA was insane by itself.

[@Alan-gi2ku]

Because he had finished the climb.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

*E12(!)... immediately downgraded to E9.* If that is not epicly ridiculous, then what is...

[@hoecorn]

That's one scary lead out holy shit nice job

[@hoecorn]

When he fell I wanted my mommy :P

[@warpighammerjr6440]

New spotter?

[@warpighammerjr6440]

New spotter?