Oboe Repair 1

[@chrissigman4151]

I use a razor blade cardboard cover folded in half to prop open the upper joint bridge key, rather than holding the F# key down while making my top joint adjustments.

[@cynthiamueller675]

Hi Chris. I’ve been known to do that too.

[@RandyJones35]

This is really superb instruction on oboe repair, thank you very much! The only thing I need to point out is tapping your screw driver on the silver, doesn’t it scratch it?

[@larrymueller4698]

Hi, I was probably focused on the content, using the screwdriver as a pointer, and yes, shouldn't have tapped on the keys like that. After many years of using this oboe, I've worn some plating off with my fingers, but the keys don't look noticeably scratched.

[@Graham-w7h]

I’ve got a cor anglais F key spring that’s not popping back up, but everything looks fine. Spring is in place.

[@larrymueller4698]

Hi, it could be the spring isn't bent correctly, or it's about to break, or the temper is too soft. It could also be a bit of rust or gunk on the steel rod. It sounds like it needs to come apart to see what's really going on. If you aren't comfortable disassembling it, any really good ww shop can handle something mechanical like that, even if they aren't oboe-specific. To do a spring replacement, you'd need the correct size spring, and probably a bit of tooling too. Occasionally, springs can be quite frustrating, especially if one breaks off at the post, and is trouble to get out. If it's just gunked up and you can get it apart, that's something more likely you can handle.

[@Loreelaubin]

I have a l’oree Royal. Middle E is sharp. Any ideas how to adjust this. Low E is fine but when I press the octave key, it’s sharp. Tested same reed on my old loree and it’s fine.

[@larrymueller4698]

The adjustment screw from the D key to the F resonance rocker key, can be tightened so that the D key doesn't come up as far. The F resonance will also raise less, but getting the middle E in tune is most important. You can lower the D key height quite a bit this way, until the E gets too stuffy in either octave, and then it's a bit too far. If that doesn't do enough, and you're adept at taking keys off, you can fill the tone hole a bit with nail polish or wax. The upper part (opening) of the hole effects the octave E with little effect on the lower octave. Put a little nail polish just below the rim of the hole, on the south (bell side) only, but don't fill in very deeply, just nearest the opening. You can get the middle E as low as you like, without making low E go flat. This is true of any of those right hand octave notes also, D,F#,G; they tend to feel sharper over time, as the bore changes. It may take as many as 2 or 3 layers of nail polish, and may require taking the oboe apart 2 or 3 times, before you're satisfied. Good luck.

[@Loreelaubin]

@@larrymueller4698 Thank you so much! I will try it.

[@andrewgreen3167]

What is the best size screwdriver to use to make adjustments?

[@larrymueller4698]

Hi, it depends somewhat on the make of oboe, but generally something about 2.5 mm across. It should be a pretty good fit, especially in thickness, so it doesn't noticeably damage the screw slot. I'll regrind them a bit if necessary. If you do a lot of work, you'll appreciate something a bit longer, with a larger handle. Your hands will thank you over time. Leave the smaller ones for in the case, on the gig.

[@macaronmacaron7948]

hello! I am having issues with my thumb octave. When I press it the cork pad doesnt raise up high enough. What should I do?

[@cynthiamueller675]

Hi, it could be a few things; the key got bent, the pad is too thick, or the adjustment screw over the octave key could use backing out. There could also be too thick of a key cork besides the pad itself, under the thumb lever, or around the adjustment screw.

[@nomorebushz]

Sending an oboe to a local music store. Oy vay.