Ochsenkopf Review Part III: Another Day in the Woods

I spend another day playing in the woods, testing out the Ochsenkopf “Europa”. Spoilers: the weather changes fast and there’s a major flaw with the axe. I hope you enjoy. I really cut my editing chops on this one.

[@SkillCult]

I have almost no interest in an edge that is so close to the being too fragile that it will get damaged if you look at it wrong. Here, if something else doesn't damage it, fir knots will in short order. So far I've had no luck with even moderately acute grinds, let alone something that acute. If I an't get away iwith chopping pretty much everything in my woods, I'm probably going to dial it back into a safer configuration.

[@SkillCult]

But i'm. minimalist and a generalist. If I were doing the exact same work in quantity in the same wood for days on end, I'd probably start thinking about special axes and grinds.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I’ve kind been thinking in the opposite direction. I want to find the keenest edge an axe can take without damage on the woods that I cut, and then dial it back slightly with a secondary bevel. So far this is the only axe that hasn’t passed the test. Again, sorry I didn’t see your comment earlier.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I suspect that’s how axe design developed. We’re all pretty much generalist now, outside of Timber Sports. What angle are you grinding you’re axes at these days?

[@SkillCult]

@@KevinsDisobedience I never measure unless I have to for some reason or need to talk about it. Probably not very acute and secondaries especially get rounded over time with circular sharpening.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

They definitely get convexed over time unless you make an effort to file sharpen again.

[@wesbodine6102]

I just bought one of their Split Quick hatchets I hope it isn't soft like that👀

[@wesbodine6102]

I'd take it to a heat treat facility and have them re-heat treat the blade

[@wesbodine6102]

The Rockwell must be in the mid 40's too soft for me!!

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I ended up giving it away. It was just too soft.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

I didn't notice a temper line on the head in this nor the earlier videos. Could you see one in person? I suppose though it could be in the paint or had been ground/polished post tempering such that it isn't noticeable. If the resharpening doesn't "fix" things, and the axe proves marginal as a result, it might make an interesting project to harden and temper the head yourself or via a blacksmith. Of course you'd have to rehang it as the handle would not survive such an exercise. ;~)

[@KevinsDisobedience]

Thanks for going back and rewatching some of my older videos. And no actually, but it’s pretty difficult to see them on most production axes because they have some kind of finish on top, but that’s a fair point. Maybe I will grind the paint off and take a closer look. I still have issues with this axe so I don’t use it much, but I’m going to give Oschenkopf another chance, as so many people rave about them. I just ordered an Iltis yesterday, so we’ll see. I’ll certainly let you guys know. Also, got your address and I’ll send the axe to you tomorrow. Hope you can make something of it. The handle is ridiculously thick, even for splitting, so you’ll want to address that somehow. Leave it to the Germans to massively over-engineer a simple too like an axe. But then, I don’t think you’ll have to worry about it much-just use it as a beater.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

@@KevinsDisobedience In addition to paint I often see clear lacquer on tools... heads and handles. It's fast to apply and dry in a factory setting though not so good for the user! When I get new saws or wood handled tools I strip the lacquer. Lacquer thinner on metal and a card scraper on the handles... faster than sand paper and doesn't load up like sand paper. I've seen Killinger use a card scraper... It's an amazingly simple tool and is really handy for removing finishes and for final fitting of handles. I use them for the final smoothing of figured wood to avoid tear out when I make furniture. I also use them to do the initial smoothing of shellac finishes. After I strip tool handles they get multiple coats of BLO... I sand in the first coat with 240 or 320 to fill the pores and smooth out any roughness. With a BLO finish I generally do not get blisters... even my wheelbarrow handles get the treatment! I'll try out the axe and make any adjustments I feel are necessary. I appreciate the opportunity to do so. Thank you! As an aside, the ash handle I made for my 3.5 lb. wedge beater is hefty. Sometimes I really have to smash wedges to get large chainsawn trees to go over when I'm falling against the natural lean. I often have to do that... It took 20 minutes with an 8 lb. sledge, wedges and a 4" glut to get a 30" ash tree over one time. It was exhausting. That said, I may find the hefty axe handle OK for a splitter...

[@KevinsDisobedience]

Yeah the lacquer sucks. I’m always thinning my handles down so I go straight for the Shinto Rasp, but I use a knife like a card scraper to finish off things before I switch to sand paper. You may like the splitter just like it is. Doesn’t matter to me, so long as it gets to you and gets used and abused.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

@@KevinsDisobedience The axe arrived. You are correct that the handle is ridiculously thick! I was surprised at how hefty the axe is overall! I'm going to try it out to get a better understanding of how it feels before blindly altering the handle. Thank you again for the opportunity. As an aside, my son just moved into a house where he found a carpenter's hatchet head and a splitting axe... He plans to keep the splitting axe (he described it as a crappy one with a fiberglass handle) to feed the fire pit he's putting in as well as the fireplace. There are many trees to be cleaned up on the nearly 8 acre wooded property so finding wood isn't an issue. More opportunities for chainsaw and axe work... all good fun and good exercise!

[@KevinsDisobedience]

Glad you got it! Yes, it is ridiculously over-engineered. Leave it to the Germans to make a simple tool complicated. The sheath is super nice though. It’s probably the nicest production sheath I’ve seen.

[@kurtzastrow6354]

Not just you , had the same problem. Talked to them about the problem, got a replacement. Exact thing happened to that one too. Problem occurred on the same part of the bit on both. That spot seemed softer than the rest. Not sure what the problem is, but I couldn’t recommend getting one of their axes.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I feel the same way. I’ve gotten another to give it a try, but if it does it too I’m done with them. Good to hear I’m not alone.

[@kurtzastrow6354]

Funny thing is I have a harz pattern axe that seems pretty good. But for the price they charge it should be great. You can get two Council Tool boys axes for that price.

[@kurtzastrow6354]

Have you tried Stubai? Many of the same patterns, and excellent heat treat from what I have experienced

[@seff2318]

You will definitely have to put a steeper secondary on that acute of an angle. The overall geometry is what cuts anyhow. Also keep in mind that with a new cutting tool there is often fatigued or burnt steel as these companies don’t wet grind. You’ll need to sharpen it couple times to get through it. I’m sad for you that your first experience with an ox head was a disappointment but I promise it will resolve itself through a little more grinding.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I’m sad too. I wanted to like this axe. It was the handle that kept me from buying it for so long. I have other production axes with slightly more active grinds that do just fine with only a micro-bevel. This one definitely needs a steeper secondary bevel. That said, it’s promising.

[@Neeverseen]

18°? That's less than I put on my knives. And the other axes hold up chopping hardwood with such an acute angle without chipping? Seems like I need to show my axe the file.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

Yes, it’s the biggest misconception about axes. Most axes sub 20 will need a small secondary bevel, but I run a few axes with 20 degree flat grinds (no bevel) and the suffer only very minimal damage after hard use.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

Definitely give it a try and push the angle and find out what your axe can handle. Obviously you want it as thin as you can have it.

[@Neeverseen]

@@KevinsDisobedience Ground my Hults down to ~20° with a 30° 6000 grit micro bevel. This series also inspired me to take a look at the handle and I rasped and sanded away the parts that annoyed me. This thing sends chunks flying now and doesn't roll or chip, great! Good thing I found this channel.

[@KevinsDisobedience]

So glad to hear you are experimenting. You’ll never look back now. In fact you’ll wonder why people chop with such thick heads and handles now that you’re moving into the danger zone. Lol. Glad to have you as part of the community.

[@szilardfineascovasa6144]

@@KevinsDisobedience You mean the total angle, or on one side only? And what kind of wood are you typically chopping at those angles (softwood or hardwood) and, more importantly, green?