OCSS-022 Backing Plates and Hull Reinforcement for the Bow Eye - Mini-Cruiser Sailboat Build

[@NA-xm7wj]

Dam captain. You plan on pulling barges for extra money while your out adventuring the world. Looks very strong. You can just hang the boat when not in use. Lol. Great job though with the router. I’d be reglassing right now to try again

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Haha. I won't lie, taking the router to the bottom made me nervous.

[@NA-xm7wj]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat oh I bet. Definitely hit some skills

[@nicolasmejia1736]

Great build congratulations

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks 👍

[@randolphbehm877]

I don’t know how you can do all of that work wearing a Super Bowl ring...🤣 Thanks for the videos! Very inspiring.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. I've worn it every day for 17 years so it feels too odd not to wear it. Military college ring.

[@adolpheddie]

Loading eye hook for a battleship, if the rest of your build is a strong as this item, she will be in the family for years. Well done.

[@felixcat9318]

I particularly liked your method of reinforcing the bow for the tow line fitting. Once again, meticulously precise attention to detail and superb craftsmanship. These are the hallmark of your build...

[@YosefFlumeri]

Thanks bro for trust me your music!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks bro.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Came over to feed the algorithm and get a second watch. Looking good. Take care and stay well.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

My man! Thank you.

[@largemarge1603]

06:45 Prior to shortening a threaded rod, I spin a nut up a ways. After the chop, spinning the nut nearly off-n-on a few times helps seat errant square edges of the cut. It could just be me... I have a dickens of a time starting a nut after I cut a rod/bolt.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

It's hard to tell, but there's two nuts on the rod up where it curves. I used those to fix the threads after the cut.

[@cedricschacht9445]

An ocss captain. PERRY the ocss captain. Great job a always. I really enjoyed watching the video, following your journey.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thank you very much.

[@bake162]

That looks sturdy

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Hope so!

[@Mile3500]

Ah, Sailing Zingaro, nice.

[@diogod1801]

Thanks for sharing.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

You bet

[@leo169]

Hi Cptn Perry, that eye certainly looks to be well supported. A word of advice working with stainless, particularly if it will be on a boat. Avoid sitting it on or coming into contact with any rust. It only takes the smallest piece to get embedded in the surface and it will break through the chrome oxide layer of the stainless and start the stainless rusting. If you can't separate it on a piece of machinery, clean the rusted surface down with a fine scourer pad and some light oil until anything even relatively loose is off. The oil will provide a sufficient buffer if there is only rust left in the low parts of the surface. Safer to put something in between that is clean and flat if you can, tape may do in some circumstances. It also helps when machining/drilling S/S to use some cutting oil. In a pinch almost any oil will help, even WD40. Then just as importantly always have the tool bit biting into the S/S, if you let it rub the stainless will work harden and can become harder than the tool. Good to see some more progress and another video, looking forward to the next one. 🙂

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Very interesting, thanks for the advice. I do not know much about metal working.

[@tomtom6319]

Majoring in minors.

[@largemarge1603]

Leo, Semi-retired welder-fabricator here. I despise working with the (seemingly hundreds of) various stainless-steel alloys. I think they are overrated for longevity and for strength. And they inevitably corrode, invalidating any alleged benefits. And a tiny surface corrosion can lead to a massive interior corrosion... shake it, a pile of dust comes out. . Did I mention I detest stainless-steel alloys. Opinion.

[@AlrightThanks]

Incredibly detailed process ! I am building a small boat with just 1/4 inch thickness ply and the bow is just stitch and glue reinforced. So, the overall thickness at bow is pretty thin. About 0.5 inches to 0.75 inches maximum. In your opinion would I be fine with a "single" shank model ? Due to the boat being so thin, I am hesitant to drill two holes that are so close. Also, what is the most common radius of the eye one should prefer ? thanks.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. You can get a bow eye like I used or a single bolt one. I've used both. You can add backing to your hull at the bow, make it 2" thick up there if you want. Spread the load across the bow with more layers of ply going from bottom to top of the bow.

[@pointnemo72]

Damn it's looking good! Love it! You're moving right along and it will be no time before you have a full boat sitting in your garage.👍👍

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

So excited, can't wait to get her in the water. I feel like there's a million things to do first, though.

[@pointnemo72]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I can imagine it would feel like that. Heard someone say, "you can fill a bucket with sand in many ways, even if it's one grain at a time, so long as you don't give up, you can fill the bucket." Perhaps it sounds corny, but it definitely gives a very clear picture.

[@largemarge1603]

@@pointnemo72 On skoolie and other DIY home-made house-truck forums, new amateur converters invariably make insanely fanatically detailed plans and lists and schedules... ...then are overwhelmed by the enormity of the project... ... and the vehicle gets advertised as a 'mostly complete'. . My suggestion: * Toss in some car-camping gear, go have fun. Allow the conversion to evolve organically, based on the types of adventure you prefer. . Building a bus or converting a retired U-Haul to a live-aboard, then adapting the adventure to fit the conversion... seems backward to me.

[@peterb9038]

nice work. Are you securing the blot and nut from unscrewing somehow?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. I bought lock washers and plan to use loctite.

[@gumbykevbo]

Hahaha...I just realized those are navy BDUs. (or whatever they call them) All this time I was thinking you were wearing pajama bottoms with your slippers...hey there was a pandemic on and I wasn't going to judge!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yes, built for life in Naval service, so they are great for shop work.

[@largemarge1603]

Mr. Kevbo, If pj bottoms are good enough for Wal*Mart shopping...

[@michaelgnaedinger5915]

Cool 😊

[@Steve_Wixom]

Interesting as always to follow your build, & you are by far the expert on this, but I'm curious why you didn't feel the need for lock washers on those bolts to keep them from backing off.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks for the tip. I'll buy some and add them. We've got a while before the hulls done and I can really install hardware.

[@largemarge1603]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat For light-duty -- star worshers, or nylocks with the plastic insert. My preference for bomb-proof -- two jam-nuts (frictional torque is my friend).

[@fredjensen1683]

Beautiful design!!!! how thick was the pvc form core material? Do you sell or offer detains about how to create a hull layer with the pvc form foam and fiberglass facesheets?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

My foam core is 10mm thick. I have a lot of videos on how to create a hull with it, I recommend you just start watching my past vids!

[@alexshyshkov8585]

that's cool. So neat! May I ask - what's the SS backing plate for? You already have G10 there, it's more than enough.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I can't really remember. I think I made the stainless one first, then decided to make a larger one out of G-10. I actually ended up replacing these with a bigger G-10 backing plate 2 episodes later. I was testing things out. Thanks for watching.

[@SustainableSailing]

Nice, although I wouldn't have thought that you need the stainless steel backing plate. Washers should be more than adequate on the G10. I'd prioritise a larger G10 plate.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks, I may re-do the G-10 a bit larger.

[@SustainableSailing]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboatwith the G10 bedded on thickened epoxy it will spread the load beautifully evenly. We are using FR4 (the fire resistant version of G10) for all our chainplate backing plates and then dyneema loops as the actual "chainplates".

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

@@SustainableSailing Nice. Luckily I don't need any chainplates for my rig. If I did I'd use dyneema too, I like the way FreeRangeSailing did it.

[@SustainableSailing]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat we were inspired by free range sailing. We took their backstay solution and adapted it to use under our side decks.

[@largemarge1603]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Oh, great. 'FreeRangeSailing does it that way'. Another channel, another rabbit-warren, another half-day re-imagining everything I thought I knew... [rends hair, waves fist at passing cloud]

[@nicknozzy]

good video and love the project, im watching this and thinking "but what about crevice corrosion on the stainless steel?" id be interested to know the rational, thanks

[@Garryck-1]

What about it? The only place crevice corrosion would be likely to happen in this case is between the G10 and the stainless plate. A properly applied layer of epoxy or sealant between them should prevent that from ever happening.

[@nicknozzy]

@@Garryck-1 i have a little experience.....only a little, of crevice corrosion on stainless steel in a marine environment..the main weakness of stainless steel is, if it is denied oxygen. its protection layer then does not work. i thought this was common knowledge..i am just adding to the pot of experience, as no one else has mentioned it.

[@Garryck-1]

@@nicknozzy Yes, I'm aware of the oxygen connection. But even then, it needs to also be exposed to moisture. If the joint is well sealed, no moisture can penetrate. Crevice corrosion on boats is much more a problem in multi-strand stainless wire rigging cables, than it is in (properly bedded) backing plates.

[@nicknozzy]

@@Garryck-1 epoxy and stainless steel expand and contract and different rates with temperature change, this just has to open up micro gaps, and those gaps between epoxy and steel are the ideal breeding ground for crevice corrosion. just adding to the pot of information here.

[@Garryck-1]

@@nicknozzy - Good to know.. thanks! So in that case, we bed the steel in something other than epoxy. That still leaves a long list of suitable sealing compounds.

[@ianhalls1985]

Hello there, I’ve been following your build and love what you’re doing, I’m also a big fan of Sven . Im interested in your use of chop strand mat, I’ve always understood that the binder that holds the mat together is dissolved during wet out by styrene in polyester resin and is incompatible with epoxy, epoxy having no styrene so the binder would remain and wet out unachievable compromising strength. However I’m from the uk so the chop strand here could well be different.

[@skaraborgcraft]

Have not seen any CSM being used. 1708 is a cloth and has no binder.

[@ianhalls1985]

At around 5.30 in the previous video chop strand mat is mentioned as being prepared for use in reinforcement

[@skaraborgcraft]

@@ianhalls1985 Fair enough. CSM is availiable without binder for epoxy. Take a look at CSF glass supplies in the UK, its epoxy compaitable.

[@ianhalls1985]

I use csf quite often, never realised such a product was available , thanks

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks for watching and the support. People comment this any time I mention CSM, but I never have a problem applying my CSM with epoxy. I understand polyester resin dissolves the binder faster, but the difference has never been large enough to make any difference to me. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@isserfiq]

I think I might have been inclined to use Sven's method and instead of SS make the U-Bolt out of epoxy saturated rope. That way its integral to the hull and no thru hull holes to weep over time. Also no galvanic action to deal with.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Take a closer look on his website regarding his last boat. He uses quite the serious-looking Custom Stainless steel bow eye fitting.

[@DowneastThunderCreations]

👍👍👍

[@tommycheshire5508]

What exactly is G10?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Read the description.

[@Garryck-1]

Algorithm Booster! ⛵

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

My man!

[@skaraborgcraft]

Because algos. I might make that G10 inner backing plate a bit bigger, but thats me......

[@Garryck-1]

I'd do the same.. after all, the entire weight of the boat will be on that fitting. Never hurts to spread the load out some more.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Mmm, you may be right. "All backing plates for cored sections should be at least 10 bolt diameters in diameter." That would be 3.75" and mine is 2"x4". Well, luckily it's not glassed in so it can easily be improved.

[@largemarge1603]

@@Garryck-1 And that weight is multi-axis dynamic, instead of meekly hanging on the garage wall. I tend to prep for WCS (Worst Case Scenarios): * earthquake, during a * tsunami, with * contagious rioters, and * Manchurian Candidate bureaucrats determined to 'reduce population to a sustainable level'...

[@Garryck-1]

@@largemarge1603 - I'm with you on that first sentence.. But after that... well, that must get expensive for you!

[@Garryck-1]

(Re-posting because KZbin didn't like my link) - Not bad, but you really ought to fix the edges of those backing plates. Square edges are bad. To prevent cracks and/or delaminations, they need to be tapered. See the illustration about 2/3 of the way down this page for how to do it right: rb.gy/sbnvxr

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Ok, good points. I'll have to follow-up in a future video. I think I'd have to buy a jig saw that allows for cutting at angles, mine only does 90 degrees.

[@Garryck-1]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat - You already have an angle grinder.. with a grinding disc rather than a cutting disc, that ought to do for the stainless plate. You can get sanding flap-discs for angle grinders too, which would take care of the G10. A bit more work, for sure, but lots cheaper than buying a jigsaw that can do angles.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

@@Garryck-1 My friend with drill press had a jig saw that angles, so I already went back and re-made backing plates. I realized by G-10 backing plate did not meet the recommended width nor thickness in relation to the bolt width. I'll put it in the video after the next one.

[@Garryck-1]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat - No worries.. good to hear you got it sorted.