OCSS-029 How to Fiberglass PVC Foam Core Panels with Epoxy - Mini-Cruiser Sailboat Build

[@tonybarnes3858]

I have so enjoyed following you, Wave Rover and Sven Yrvind. Thank you for all the excellent content. They call it "a labor of love".

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@thomastaylor6991]

Welcome back Captain. Thanks for the content.

[@johnmorgenthaler3611]

You should put the 1708 down first as the mat bonds to the foam much better and stronger and the 6oz on top will give you a much Smoother and better surface.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks I'll try that.

[@stuartmcnaughton2848]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat For Polyester this is required, but for Epoxy it's not as important bonding wise. But still good advice, for fairing if nothing else.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Over feeding the algorithm and enjoying a second watch.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks, I did too, haha.

[@leo169]

Good to see another update Captain Perry.

[@ottifantiwaalkes9289]

Hi I like to pass on some of my decades of use of epoxy and foam board or plywood, as I heard you say you think people use to much epoxy and the glass gives most strength. You would have achieved greater adhesion and strength by having added alot more epoxy resin to your first batch of epoxy. It is always better to lay fiberglass into a well wetted bed of epoxy than to add epoxy from the top. I can see that your second layer of fiberglass was layed down in way to dry of epoxy. Easy to see that it was hungry for more resin. But adding resin from the top will never give the same results as to lay fiberglass in well wetted surface. The same actually goes for the first layer of fiberglass. If you have to add as much as you did to still pretty dry cloth you had not enough in first resin pour. First poor of resin should be almost all you need. Especially with rolling it out.

[@TornState]

The guy over at trimaran dawn shared a really good tip. He does the first wet out of the foam with epoxy just slightly thickened with the real fine cabosil. Fills the nooks and crannys really well and helps extend the epoxy a bit too i expect. Glad you are back!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Good tip, thanks.

[@ottifantiwaalkes9289]

Seems backwards since epoxy should if anything be thinner to find the spots to flow to instead of thicker were it will lay over not int the places it should flow.

[@TornState]

​@@ottifantiwaalkes9289 The thickener is to extend the coverage. Epoxy is expensive but filler is super cheap. You want to fill all the low points so air can't be trapped between the initial layer of glass and the surface.

[@PaulDeCamp]

Welcome back; hope you enjoyed that vaycay. 😊 Larger surfaces are fun to do because they're often easy, and it looks like you got a whole lot done. It's the small little areas that will make you earn your kudos.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yes, my last video showed a lot of small areas while working upside down, tabbing the underside of that foredeck panel. Lots of work.

[@malymichas]

Started to get worried with your absence, but here you are :) good episode, waiting for part 2 of the deck. Cheers!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. I admit I got into a lazy rut, but I'm back making progress and will keep filming.

[@MrRombie]

Always looking forward to new episodes. Hope you guys had a great vacation!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks, it was awesome.

[@Werytex42]

Finally new video! Glad to see your progress of this amazing project! Waiting for continuation and wish you a good luck!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks, glad you are so into the project!

[@alanduncan9204]

Glad your back. Keep posting the progress.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. Will do.

[@Dlgeis]

For epoxy quantity first weigh the glass you are laying then mix an equal amount in weight of epoxy. That should get you pretty close to the correct ratio. Make adjustments on subsequent batches until you get the ratio of resin to glass. It is important that you cut your glass pretty accurately but it will save time and epoxy.

[@pointnemo72]

Is it really 1:1? Or does it matter the type of glass?

[@robertcain3426]

​@@pointnemo72Yes, approximately 1 to 1. Cheers

[@pointnemo72]

@@robertcain3426 thanks for the reply. I'm building my own small boat, so this will be a helpful bit of info.

[@robertcain3426]

@@pointnemo72 For clarity, 1:1 for woven cloth. And 2:1 for chop strand mat. Cheers again.

[@Garryck-1]

Welcome back! It's interesting.. I remember how, back when you began, you weren't really sold on peelply, and tended to think of it in terms of being an expense that would probably be unnecessary. And now, like me, once you're experienced the end results, you're a convert! Also, a free tip from something I've recently learned.. try and get yourself a "bristle roller" or two. Born out of frustration with getting bubbles out of fibreglass tape at the 3-way, near right-angled corners of my dinghy, I went searching for something better than the standard fin-roller, and discovered bristle rollers. Curious to see if they lived up to their claims, I ordered one. The result? I AM *NEVER* GOING BACK TO A FIN ROLLER! Bristle rollers are FAR superior. No more chasing bubbles halfway across a panel to get them to the edge (like we saw you doing in this video). The fine but very stiff bristles will penetrate through multiple layers of cloth and peelply, letting the air escape directly up out of the cloth, rather than just pushing it around. It saves a *lot* of time and effort. Got a dry spot? Pour a little epoxy over it, and hit it with the bristle roller. The bristles will push the epoxy deep into the fibres with a lot less effort than it takes with a fin-roller. I love mine, and am about to order a longer one, for use on the large outer hull fibreglassing job I have coming up, once the worst of winter Down Under is over.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

That's right, I'm a convert. The bristle roller sounds awesome, I'll check that out now.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

By the way, what do you think of applying epoxy with foam rollers? I've never used that method, I feel like the foam will suck up epoxy and waste too much, plus I'd think you could only use the roller once.

[@Garryck-1]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat - Like you, I've never tried foam rollers, for the same reasons that you mention. I do have a few, that I got for potential small jobs, but have yet to try them out.

[@dougbrockelbank1196]

the foam roller might melt from epoxy ?

[@Garryck-1]

@@dougbrockelbank1196 - No.. epoxy won't melt the foam.

[@magicfairydust906]

if using epoxy, no need to use 1708. Just use the 17 oz biaxial without the chopped strand sewn to it. The chopped strand part of it has a binder that dissolves in styrene when using polyester or vinyl Ester resins. and as a previous commenter suggested, use slightly thickened epoxy as first pour. And when you need to do any vertical or overhead laminating. helps tremendously.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

1708 holds the chop strand together with stitching, not a chemical binder.

[@ottifantiwaalkes9289]

As the last coating something like microballon or fairing filler from the epoxy filler assortment or else is best to leave a easy to sand surface ready for primer. Lots of this will be absorbed by resin so you need much more by volume than high strength filler. It often has an offwhite or even brown color. It is extremely light as powder and after use with resin. It is mostly used for fairing. It will even out your Orange peel resin look..

[@RalphReagan]

Yay a video! Thank you. This such a cool project.

[@PineappleAdrift]

Thanks for the how-to!

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

You bet!

[@SvenYrvindExlex]

Hi Glad that you are back in the garage. Also good that Baluchon have completed his circumnavigation. It is good for the small boat community. Do you know the beam of his boat? Regards Yrvind.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

It is 1.7 meters.

[@craigmonteforte1478]

I’m really liking the theory you are using years ago i tried experimenting with ConstructionGrade Foam InsulationBoards easily available at big Box Stores and Lumber Yards as a Core forFiberglass resin and Cloth in a attempt to shape a Surfboard or other Water Toy of course the ResinJust dissolved the Foam so i wound up switching to a Wooden Core and Skinned Wake board instead i did cover the exterior in Fiberglass Cloth and Resin it worked as a Wake Board but i knew it was getting. Wet inside and would destroy the project over long term my next large Project will be a Cold Molded skiff and i’ll utilize Marine Grade Plywood for that or Cedar Strips but those will have the ability to be kept indoors when not in use im Looking Foward to seeing your final build i personally have owned 17 or 18 boats throughout my life both Sail and Power ,Wooden and Fiberglass hulled and that so far oh of course Aluminum and PVC as well

[@markthomasson5077]

Polyester dissolves polystyrene foam. Epoxy doesn’t. PU foam is ok with polyester resin. I used Styrofoam core with epoxy glass. It was very tough.

[@scottcarlson2788]

Fantastic. I was unfamiliar with this process, which sliminated the plywood. Who manufactures your sheet product? Plascore?

[@ghostnumber717]

Well thanks

[@curtiscagle6261]

Captain Perry, I sent you a little present from your Amazon wish list.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thank you, very kind!

[@darylreed7771]

Captain perry! Good to see the videos again. I’ve always wanted to see Japan. Have you had any luck finding a keel maker yet? Maybe get the steel part fabricated and then DIY lead pour? I’m not even sure if it’s possible but just spitballin here.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

That's what I'm thinking. Pay someone to make the keels, and do a backyard lead pour.

[@BeardedRedfish]

What kind of pvc foam board is that ? Also where did you purchase ?

[@Cat-Natural-Law]

Thanks for your demonstration ..this is much better than marine ply for boat building..I am guessing your foam panel is 10 mm half inch ?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yep, 10mm / 3/8"

[@snoopdog334]

where did you buy foam sheet pannels and how much

[@christopherbrand5360]

Glad you got a break and that you are back at it! I was really surprised to see you put epoxy down on top of peel ply… did I see that right? Confused by that

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. Sven Yrvind does the same method. The peel ply works best if it's saturated. If it doesn't look like it's fully saturated and stuck down to the fiberglass, I'll add a bit to the top.

[@Garryck-1]

Peel ply also needs to be properly wetted out, otherwise shallow voids will form in the pure epoxy layer underneath it. One of the criticisms some people have of peel ply is that you will generally use 5%-10% more epoxy for the same job. But most people who've tried it feel it to be a worthwhile expense. A thoroughly rolled-down peel ply job will end up with a thinner layer of epoxy, meaning the end result is both lighter and stronger. The surface will have a very pleasant texture to it, and will also require little to no sanding to be ready for future coats of epoxy or paint. Using (and then literally throwing away!) a little more epoxy is a small price to pay for not having to spend hours laboriously sanding some of that expensive epoxy away.

[@jimralf5363]

Same here if it's epoxied over how does it release when cured

[@Garryck-1]

​@@jimralf5363 - Peel ply is basically a very-fine-weave 100% rayon cloth. Epoxy simply doesn't really stick very well to rayon. And since the holes between the rayon threads are so small (as are the threads themselves), the peel ply threads act kind of like perforations between the layer of epoxy below the peel ply, and the layer of epoxy above the peel ply. Except that unlike perforations in a piece of paper, the perforations run in two different dimensions, instead of just one. The end result is, when you pull (and sometimes you have to pull fairly hard!) on the cloth, the extremely thin vertical strands of plastic (which is all that epoxy is) running between the threads of the peel ply, break, making a very satisfying tearing sound as they do so. The end result is a sort-of smooth-ish surface with the pattern of the peel ply weave embossed into it.

[@markthomasson5077]

Not only the extra epoxy, but the cost of the peel ply. Using thin polythene sheet is something I have used, you can squeeze out excess and get a flat surface, though often a few ridges.

[@curtiscagle6261]

Technical question. Is vacuum bagging the foam and fiberglass not necessary for this boat project? I have notice that some boat builders use this technique.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I noticed some use it. It's not necessary, but it's great because it really pushes the fiberglass down onto the core and removes the air pockets and excess epoxy. I just don't want to bother with the extra time and expense it requires. A lot of time if it's a flat piece I just put plastic over it and then a plywood board on top with some weight. Gives similar results.

[@pironiero]

First! Glad to see you

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks.

[@derekmoore2779]

How does the boat handle rough weather

[@mvmarinoa6553]

Capt Perry, how did you determine your layup schedule? For example, why the 6 oz under the 1708? I'd have thought that 6 oz might not add much under that heavy 1708?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Making it up. I used this same schedule for the cabin sole hatch I made in ep 25, which I feel is very strong. The deck will get one big layer of fiberglass cloth over it when it's all put together.

[@eric99vigne]

Good, so we can use epoxy resin and fiberglass on the pvc foam board it will not melt?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yes, absolutely.

[@sailingheretic]

What kind/brand of epoxy resin are you using? I tried using both polyester resin and West Systems 105/205 epoxy resin to fiberglass some layups made of PVC foam and I could not get adequate adhesion with either. Are your sheets divinycell perhaps? They don’t look like the material I used; I guess not all PVC sheets have similar properties. Your sheets seem to soak up the epoxy much better than the stuff I used. Thanks for the great videos.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks! West System and similar epoxies should work fine. I use PVC foam core, not divinicell. Maybe the temperature was wrong? Foam too dusty? I built a dinghy with polyester epoxy once and I'll never do that again. The smell was so toxic.

[@vincentbrault6730]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Thank you for the high-quality videos. Can you please let us know where you purchased the PVC foam boards? Ideally the company that sold it and the price. Best!

[@williamfreret6859]

Definitively not enough resin. You have first to saturate the foam then put the 1st layer of fiberglass and be sure it's translucide indicating there is no air trapped then add resin and put the 2nd layer of fiberglass. Roll it be sure it's translucide then add the pell ply and roll it.

[@Jack-ne8vm]

Would it be better to finish more interior work while access is easy, before adding outer skins?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yes I did as much interior work as I could before closing her up.

[@superwag634]

Cool. That will be one overglassed panel, but very stiff

[@Garryck-1]

That panel will (potentially) be taking the full brunt of large breaking waves. It's not "overglassed" at all!

[@superwag634]

@@Garryck-1 for taking breaking waves, 10mm pvc should be increased to get the maximum stiffness per unit weight. There’s no point putting more weight in glass and epoxy to a thin core. You may as well build it solid fibreglass, but whatever, it’s hardly intended as a computer optimised design. It’s just what’s drilled into us in marine engineering / naval architecture university

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I would have loved to have 1" core, but the cost was prohibitive. But, I think with strong lamination and perpendicular attached structural pieces attached to the underside it will be strong enough.

[@EdsPlace]

@@superwag634 Could you recommend specs for a well insulated truck camper? I was thinking 2" foam. I could of course insulate extra on interior of composite panels.

[@superwag634]

@@EdsPlace for insulation, the best commonly available material is Polyurethane foam, refrigeration grade. 3 inches reaches an asymptote and going above that is bordering on major diminishing returns. 2 inches would be plenty for most thermal gradients of a living space. Be cautious of flammability ratings of whatever you use and avoid adding too much weight to your camper.

[@markthomasson5077]

With sheathing plywood, you should always coat in epoxy, and le that go off. Otherwise the plywood can suck the epoxy out of the glass cloth. Is this not necessary with foam board?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

The PVC foam is pretty amazing stuff. It doesn't absorb liquids.

[@ATECZephyr]

At 10.50 you put peel ply on to absorb resin and to allow for a better finish for a either a chemical bond or paint finish for what ever the part requires. My question is why do you apply resin to the top side of peel ply?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

It helps the peel ply more thoroughly stick down to the fiberglass, and when peeled off I find you get better results this way. Learned that method from Sven Yrvind.

[@JakMang]

The peel ply needs to be fully wet out. You essentially are trying to remove the very top of the entire epoxy layer where it is in contact with air and the waxy amine blush forms. If it is not entirely wet out some of the blush can be below the peel ply and won’t be removed You are correct about not wanting too much epoxy, but I’m still seeing variations in color when you wet out, which looks like uneven epoxy. A vacuum bag would help as it would further spread the epoxy and remove the excess.

[@theowenssailingdiary5239]

@@JakMang it was a dry lay-up for sure

[@SuperGreenshades]

Will this sail boat also have an engine and if so how will you support it

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

No engine or perhaps a small electric outboard.

[@ltownandfriends4531]

can i use poly resin instead of epoxy to save money?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yes, I made a smaller boat with it. But I found the toxic smell unbearable.

[@fredericl6190]

Hello Captain Perry, sorry to be late to the game. I would like to know what pvc foam you are using, and why one centimeter thickness. I think Sven Irving is using 3 inches, which is probably overkill. And what density have you chosen? And is it the same density of foam for the hull, for the roof and for the bulkheads ? Thank you.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Hi, it's rigid closed cell foam, same type for the whole boat. PVC foam core is 90 pounds per sq inch compression strength. 4lbs/cubic feet in weight. If I could choose any thickness I would have bought 1" thick foam, but I was limited by cost. I make up for it with a lot of internal structural grid perpendicular to all the hull panels.

[@fredericl6190]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Thank you really much for your answer. I’m planning to make a Dudley Dix design, which is supposed to be in marine plywood. But the wood is so expensive right now, and I’m concerned about the insulation and rot after watching Sven Irvind. So the closed cell foam panels seem the way to go. Do you remember the company from which you bought it ? If I’m lucky it’s available in Canada, and perfect for our cold climate. Have a nice 4th of July.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Any marine ply boat, you can make from foam sandwich construction. The advantages are well worth the extra cost. I don't promote any specific suppliers. Just get some quotes, factor in shipping, and choose the cheapest. That's what I always tell folks. Hopefully someone is producing structural foam in Canada already. I bet they are.

[@robertcain3426]

You don't need to wet out the panel first if you put 6oz down. The resin easily squeegy's into 6 and even two 6's. This is how professional surfboard glassers/laminators do it. Cheers

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Interesting. I've done it like that and the fiberglass delaminated too easily. It seems to work best if I spread some slightly thickened epoxy on the foam before adding any fiberglass.

[@robertcain3426]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Hi. Watching you laminate in your video, it looked too dry. When glassing a surfboard with 1 or 2 layers of 6oz you work it in with the squeegy, which is a bit of a learned skill in itself. You can be generous with the first 6oz because the 2nd 1708, in your case, will soak up the excess. This is why you had problems with delamination. I'm not positively sure about this but I think 1708 is made primarily for polyester or vinylester because the glue in the chop strand is made to be broken down by styrene, which is not present in epoxy and which will not allow the chop strand to become clear but rather look milky and seeing the strands. However, there are many ways to skin a cat, as they say. So, filling the foam first with thickened epoxy would be a way to fo it, especially if you are inexperienced. Most wooden boat builders seem to be lacking in the laminating skills, their skill being in the wood working part. Still it will work out in the end. Cheers

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Some chop strand uses that glue, but 1708 actually uses stitching to hold it together so it's ok to use with any epoxy. I've learned and improved a lot since making this video.@@robertcain3426

[@robertcain3426]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Okay, thanks for that information. I've only used a product similar to 1708 with polyester. Cheers

[@smftfilms9423]

Hello, Im trying to fiber glass a rc boat. How do you stop the resin from eating the foam?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yeah I think resin, especially polyester resin will eat cheap foam. The foam I use is PVC structural foam intended for this purpose. You just need to research which foams will work with the epoxy you are using and buy that.

[@nielsschaeffus8147]

Is it posseble to reuse the peel-ply? Thanks for the how-to :)

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I don't think so. I wouldn't. You really want it to do it's job properly.

[@Garryck-1]

No.. peel ply is definitely a one-shot operation. If you were going to try to re-use it, first you'd need to remove all the excess epoxy that's adhered to the upper side of the cloth (peel ply is actually just very-fine-weave 100% rayon anti-static cloth, of the kind used to line wedding gowns), and doing so without damaging the cloth in the process. I seriously doubt it could be done, but even if it could, it would be a long and tedious job. Probably even worse than all the sanding you avoided by using peel ply in the first place!

[@nielsschaeffus8147]

@@Garryck-1 Thank you, its making sense :)

[@WorldLivehindi]

Hi, is the core pvc foam board, please reply

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

The answer to that is in the title of the video.

[@bradwhite3894]

Hey Captain Perry, where did you source your PVC foam? I've been looking in the San Diego area with no luck. Thanks

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Unfortunately I had to ship it from the east coast. I don't really give out brand names much since I don't have any sponsors. You can find several sources online and get estimates, though. Then just choose the cheapest.

[@bradwhite3894]

Thank you,,,, Please let us know when you launch. I would like to be there and I'm available if you need another set of hands.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thank you. Send me an e-mail (in description) with your contact info if you like. Might need some help in a couple months to roll her over.

[@alfreddaniels3817]

Why does the fibergllass absorb the epoxy in some places but not everywhere? So you must add epoxy a second and even a third time ? And: did that panel fit the curve? I’d be surprised?? Why not do the outside while it’s on the boat and when it’s hard do the inside ??

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

It's a slow hardener so there's plenty of working time to mix up epoxy as needed to saturate the glass. The panel fit great. I try out different methods in later videos. I think this was the first time I'd needed to curve a panel like this and it was a long time ago.

[@RiemerWitteveen]

Hi! Love the content. Thanks. Are you sure that the foam panels that you use are in fact pvc and not pu? It does not look a lot like pvc to be honest.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thank you. As far as I know, yes. The invoice says "PVC Structural Foam - Sheets"

[@eddiegier1459]

Where do you get the PVC foam?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

There are a few suppliers out there. I just recommend folks get 3 quotes, factor in shipping, and choose the cheapest. I don't really promote any individual companies typically.

[@stefanshelenko4487]

Hope you had a glorious hiatus. Nice methods on the foam core.

[@billbill1605]

Where do you purchase pvc foam core sheets thx

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

There are many suppliers. I'd just say get some quotes online including the shipping cost and choose the cheapest. Sorry I'm not really promoting any suppliers, no suppliers are promoting me.

[@kocherek]

How do you prevent bubbles?

[@ottifantiwaalkes9289]

After mixing epoxy let it sit in cool place to give bubbles time to come up. Same after brushing not rolling out first coat of it on to foam got to give resin time to flow into tiny closed cell foams spaces. Using a spreader is bad since you roll or spread resin over the spaces it should flow. Resin is thick so than it takes time to flow into tiny spaces on foam surface. Think of it that way that the epoxy has to go were there is air now. The air needs to have chance to escape. That takes time for the air to bubble up through the epoxy. I would first apply a thin coat of resin let air escape than apply thicker layer of resin to lay first layer of glass in. That way the air can escape through thin layer of resin.. resin needs to flow itself into the small cutopen air bubbles in the foam. So thickening resin is not very smart.

[@Garryck-1]

Algorithm Booster! ⛵

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I appreciate it.

[@theresnobodyhere5778]

for the amount of epoxy you,ll need it maybe wise to invest in a vacuum pump hand laying supposed to work out at a 1 to 1 ratio weight of glass to resin, to fully wet out surface and glass leaving no air pockets i rarely get anywere near that more like twice the weight of resin to glass but i.m only doing small areas no more than 3 foot by 3 foot ,the expert vacuum baggers can get it down to around 40 % resin to glass weight think of the saving and also gives a strong compressed lay up and fast cure time

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I guess I just don't want to deal with having to vacuum bag each piece and invest in the equipment. I'm sure it's a great method though.

[@SvenYrvindExlex]

Vacuum bagging is the best. I wish I was better at it. You have to make sure there is no leeks by listening. I have tinnitus and my hearing is not good and there is more consumebles. Hopefully I can do it on the next boat.

[@davehobby6421]

Hi, nice build, where do you order pvc foam sheet, and how much are they, thanks

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Thanks. There are a few suppliers out there. I just recommend folks get 3 quotes, factor in shipping, and choose the cheapest. I don't really promote any individual companies typically.

[@markthomasson5077]

Why use 1780, rather than more cloth / biax

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

I bought a lot of 1708 at the start of the project. The roll was so heavy you couldn't even move it without a dolly. It's good stuff. Very strong and adds about 1/12 an inch with every layer.

[@TEKKKNO]

So i can use pvc foam board for boat dick instead plywood and it can be coated with fiberglass?

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

Yep. I have a few videos about making deck panels. OCSS-027, for instance.

[@TEKKKNO]

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Thnx for reply i will watch them it will be better than plywood ,no more rotten 👍

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

@@TEKKKNO Yes exactly! It's very strong, MUCH lighter than plywood, and will never rot. You're welcome. Thanks for watching👍.

[@svlamancha9877]

👍

[@paulbriggs3072]

I think Russell Brown's method of laying the cloth on dry and rolling the epoxy onto it is more efficient, uniform in resin saturation, and just easier. See it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmaQhnilrN9_n5o

[@billfromgermany]

Hi Paul, Are you the guy lived in Cathcart Road late 70’s? Hope so, as we were friends!

[@paulbriggs3072]

@@billfromgermany No,I live in upstate New York

[@billfromgermany]

@@paulbriggs3072 Thanks for reply😢 Was hoping you’d be my old friend.

[@carlosclaptrix]

The non-metric system is terrible! Great project by the way!

[@theowenssailingdiary5239]

Too dry-you needed way more resin on your First pour-just get that stuff on there and stop faffing. You should have hardly needed any subsequent resin if your First pour was wet enough. Bottom up beats top-down.

[@superformOG]

i would wet out more, that laminate looked dry

[@jbcom2416]

Way too many airpockets because of little epoxy applied. This build wont have the strength it could have had

[@Ratigun]

What type of epoxy can you use on foam? I thought it melted.

[@ocean_capable_small_sailboat]

cheap insulation foam melts, but this stuff is made for use with epoxy. I've used West System or similar resins on my project.