Octavia Build - door sound treatment

This is the first part about door sound treatment. In the next couple of days I will make another video going through the measurements.
If you like the channel consider subscribing to my Patreon
/ rawcat
Or, you can make a donation to my PayPal:
www.paypal.me/...

[@leif8436]

This is the first Acoustic Treatment video I've seen with sensible measurements. All the other ones are either just driving and showing a dB difference or nothing at all. But that doesn't tell the whole story. Thank you so much for your efforts to explain and show us your results!

[@GuitarTherapy144]

Watched the video 2 times. I treaat your channel as a school class. Thanks for the upload!

[@RAW-CAt]

Glad to hear that. The next one will be very cool 😎

[@Mph82]

Dude you are doing the best car audio videos. So much insight and detail. Love it

[@Jake-kb2le]

One of my favorites videos so far, didn't even know that there's such a good way to find rattling parts. Nice job as always

[@JasonWW2000]

Sure, a free tone generator app on your phone is all you need.

[@georgeperez4231]

Your knowledge is very valuable extremely detailed. I’ve gained so much knowledge about the importance of measurements..Coming from over the pond. Many thanks 😊

[@josephrabant7432]

I don't watch all your videos, but when I do....I thoroughly enjoy them👍

[@kylebetchuk2114]

I have only just started this video, and I got thinking, I hope your channel gets so big you can just made car audio content for a living and u dont have to work your other job. I f#@king love it. Informative. Realistic. And you just explain stuff so well. Even with your Accent. ( I'm Canadian ). Cheers raw cat. Thanks for your work. Your a genius.

[@salientram]

In my opinion, foreigners with accent are talks much cleaner then the native english speakers. Fortunatly my two favourite youtuber Nerijus and Peter (pssound) are both from central europe.

[@kylebetchuk2114]

@salientram agreed. Both of those guys sure make things easy to understand! Kings of car audio.

[@CrystalClearSQL]

Brilliant. Identifying the rattles frequency by frequency was super interesting. Great video.

[@diamondsink2000]

You need to build yourself a car port. Nice work running through the freq to find the rattles

[@raidiadlila]

the amount of work and effort is amazing. Love it, cant wait for the next one!

[@VladC6]

Thanks!

[@neilziesmer6109]

NICE JOB , WELL DONE . PROPER DOOR TREATMENT ...

[@ConradBrander]

Outstanding video. Your willingness to seperate and sound test the various stages of the build, along with the road noise while dealing both weather and family is absolutely impressive and commendable!! Much thanks, and please keep it up!! These videos are head and shoulders above anything else out there.

[@xTinBenderX]

Your effort to prove all the possible acoustic variables is exemplary!

[@stelzacharias2508]

Love how you explain in detail and you go in to depth with everything and I’m sure you will have a great build in the Skoda keep up the good work 👍

[@Randy_G]

OMG i am so excited to watch this unprecedented study! Thank you

[@Gomez561]

Absolutely love how you’re documenting this whole process with before and after measurements! I did my best to sound-deaden and dampen everything in my doors along with enclosing the inner shell with PVC paneling and the mid bass from my 3 way JBL components is glorious. Tried my best but still get rattles/vibrations at certain frequencies which drive me crazy after doing all of that work. I like the idea of mounting the midbass drivers in the kick panels to be away from so many vibration issues. Keep up the awesome work with your vids!

[@Gomez561]

I tried to document most of my install on my KZbin channel and that alone is a ton of work. You’re vids are top notch for the DIY community ✌🏼

[@kovacspis]

I absolutely love the approach, the mentality! I know I already wrote it, but I will keep commenting it. Great project, I'll do my Mondeo with a similar style.

[@CarAcoustics]

Love your approach to these videos. Better than any real tutorial, pure tips & tricks :D About checking the road noise before and after - have you taken into consideration things like wind, road wetness, other cars etc? I've been playing around with these kind of measurements for some time (sharing outputs on my channel) and they're trickier than they seem at first.

[@RAW-CAt]

I did notice that on wet road the noise is bigger. I will try to measure on multiple days to have an average for the same road and maybe slightly different conditions. Even an overtaking car spikes the noise on RTA. Unfortunately that is the best that I can do.

[@CarAcoustics]

@@RAW-CAt yes, exactly. I have similar observations.

[@jesse-dg8yx]

This is the exact video I've been looking for

[@diegoleiva1709]

toda esta informacion es muy valiosa ya que nadie te explica ni hace las pruebas que haces vos gracias por tu tiempo dedicado y tus videos.

[@cromagnon305]

Hello lovely person. Keep these videos coming. Merry Christmas

[@ryandalrymple5636]

Thanks for all you do and Merry Christmas! This is a lengthy message, so I apologize ahead of time. I'm 51, in the USA (Waco, Texas) and getting back into car audio as a hobby after a 30 year absence for Home Theater. I hit you with a question a week so or so ago in one of your videos. Ironically, I had just watched the 3-years old series for Cheap Sound Quality, which included sound-proofing a vehicle from PSSound. Since these videos were from three years ago, I was going to write Peter and ask if he would change anything today. Your video today was basically the same, so I will send my question your way. I have a new 2025 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Platinum incoming and have begun preparing for the sound dampening/sound proofing, which I will do immediately and then do the sound system in February or March wiht a local installer. I ordered the CLD two weeks ago, 60 sq-ft Mega CLD from Resonix and 60 Sq-ft Kno Knoise XT from KnuKonceptz. Both have the same specs on paper. I bought both to compare. I had already sourced the CCF. I was planning to use it in the door panels, floor and headliner around the sunroof. After ordering the Mega CLD, I reached out to Nick at Resonix and he was fairly adamant that I stay away from using CCF in the door panel and that it would be a waste of time. He said I would have superior results using his Resonix Fiber Mat instead. I realize he has a potential bias because he sells his own material. Anyway, I had watched Peter's videos and thought that the thinking about CCF had changed in three years. Then I watched your video today. So, now I'm conflicted as to which material to use. What would be your thoughts on this? I understand you may not have used the Fiber Mat material that Nick sells, but you and Peter have obviously used the CCF in the door panels and you have a lot of experience. Naturally, I am very curious to see the measurement results when you post them. If you want to see the entire build plans, I can figure out a way to get the plans to you.

[@RAW-CAt]

Thanks for a very generous donation☺️ The difference between CCF and OCF is their sound absorption characteristics. Open cell foam is simply more effective at absorbing sound. The Resonix Fiber mat has the effectiveness of OCF just in a slightly different package. The main advantage of the Fiber mat is that it's waterproof, same as CCF, so can be used anywhere. Fiber mat has the best of both worlds. If choosing between CCF and OCF, you choose based on moisture. If the place you are treating can get wet, CCF is a better choice. If it's always dry, like a roof, you put OCF. Fiber mat is an exception as it can be used anywhere. Hope that helps.

[@ryandalrymple5636]

@ understood. I’ll ask a different question…if you had access to both without worrying about the $ hit, would you still use the CCF in the door panel (not the cavity as it’s a wet environment)? I just want to do this once and not worry about it again. (Says EVERY person in this hobby!)

[@RAW-CAt]

@@ryandalrymple5636 nah, I would use fiber mat everywhere 😂

[@ryandalrymple5636]

@@RAW-CAt Dang! I was afraid of that. At $90 USD for 10.9 sq-ft, I’m about to get into trouble. 22 years of marriage and I still haven’t figured out the Spousal Approval Factor (SAF). Guess I’ll have to beg for forgiveness later. Seriously, Much appreciated. Have a great holiday!

[@JasonWW2000]

​@ryandalrymple5636 I used a pragmatic approach. I did my front doors a bit overkill, because I do have mid range drivers in them. Then I listened to where I head noise coming into the vehicle, and then I treated those areas. And then the next loudest thing became apparent, so I treated that. Eventually you get the vehicle quiet enough that your satisfied with it. If you just buy a lot of materials and try to treat everything all at once, you tend to treat areas that don't need it and waste time and money. 👍

[@onkyo69]

Great job, cant wait to see the results.

[@Adam-fj8mk]

Really like watching your videos, very informative :)

[@GovDubz]

Underviewed video. Good job

[@tiborszalai7894]

Thank you for this awesome video! Very very interesting and usefull!

[@Mph82]

Maybe you want to try speaker boxes under the seats as i did with my golf mk7. On these skodas you would be able to fit 5 to 6 liters easy under each seat for a 6.5 speaker and then let them play up to 150 or 200hz. Absolutely zero rattles and the frequency responses between left and right are way more equal than with door speakers

[@customspeakerpods5078]

Above and beyond as always!

[@mosiowaty1573]

I just wanted to say that IMO, you should do the oppopsite - use thinner alubutyl on thinner (outer) sheet metal, and thicker on thicker sheet metal. It's because of the energy at which both resonate - thicker, more rigid structure will resonate with a lot more energy and requires more added mass and damping to sound-deaden. Butyl does not block sound - it stops the sheet metal itself from resonating. Also, inner door skin is closer to your listening position and affects what you hear a lot more.

[@RAW-CAt]

Thicker more rigid structure will resonate with more energy? No, if it is more rigid it will resonate less.

[@mosiowaty1573]

​@@RAW-CAtWe have two elements. Let's assume similar structure, and difference only in thickness. Thicker structure will resonate with more energy (because of mass), but less amplitude (as it is more rigid). As an effect, thicker element requires more damping. It's basically all I wanted to say. Otherwise I love your video. Take a look at CTK mat catalogue, it has a nice drawing of a car with recommended thicknesses, very helpful in deciding what thickness and kind of deadening to use where

[@mosiowaty1573]

@@RAW-CAt Oh yeah and the key in your reply is "will resonate less" - and yes, that is true, it will resonate with less amplitude. But more energy.

[@elviscaragea4433]

I knew that open cell foam is for sound absorption, used in house or studios for removing reflexions and echo. Close foam cell is more for sound blocking.

[@faith2817]

A quick tip, deadening the whole door doesn’t make sense, the whole point of the deadening material is to stop the metal sheet from vibrating. Which can be achieved by only covering 40% of the outer metal sheet. Putting more then that gives you no measurable difference, it only makes the door more heavy and maybe bulletproof… There is a reason why Vw from factory only puts a small amount on there, which are around 15%. Costs and weight need to be low thats why they use 15%. You can use more than that because cost is not such a big deal but covering 100% of the door is still not profitable. If you go above 40% the gain is unnoticeable. On the other hand use as much foam as possible because the foam doesn’t deaden the vibration it rather absorbs the sound. Which means you cant have enough foam!

[@mosiowaty1573]

Agreed, also 4mm on the outer and 2mm on the inner - it should be the other way around. Outer skin does not matter that much (being further away from the listener and obstructed) and resonates with less energy. Nick from ResoNix also concentrates the most on the inner skin, and even more on door panel. Cheers

[@408SPLKINGS]

As always great content lessons tutorials advice video audio editing skills craftsmanship creativity execution 🚗🔊🎵🎶🎼🙏

[@sqaudiott]

Can you do measurements of each front doors just as it is in the video except just remove all treatments to the left door card (ie remove the open cell foam and deadening applied to the left door card ony). Leave the right door with the stock speaker and all treatments to it

[@gamecock2465]

Replacing all the door clips would probably be money well spent. Especially on the last install so you know they are as tight as possible.

[@eustahijelifetips]

Alright, so, i did almost all of that but, where two different parts meet, instead of a decoupling layer that i couldnt smash inside, i did pour in polyurethane glue, it works like a charm, stiffens the card up yet also removes any chance of rattles, hollow areas are also to be filled with Pu foam, i found it to be a good material since it bonds everything, and seals up nice, its not visible too, one good thing also is to put a layer of fiberglass on thin surfaces that would deflect easy, also stiffens it up good, otherwise, one needs to plan which materials can use because of the thickness and clearance issues that come with too thick deadening materials

[@RAW-CAt]

Yes, some doors have absolutely no space. I am lucky that this Škoda has very accommodating door panels. I wanted to use fiberglass, but I was told that while curing, it can wrap the panels so decided not to risk it.

[@eustahijelifetips]

@RAW-CAt if the door card is made from cork, one just needs to clean it up first and apply a layer or two of resin so the laminate will stick to it better, cork, being pourous is pretty soft of a material, and if its coupled with hard plastics, it will deteriorate with time, both my old passat b4 and current w203 use similar materials and i didnt have problems with shrinking or warping in either case, though, i didnt laminate them completely because it didnt make sense to do that on the frame-y parts that add structure and stability to the cards already, however, the w203 is already a good built car and the door cards are certainly not a serviceable part from the manufacturer, they are glued onto the doors in a few places, and i tried to find a thin material but the clearance was so tight i couldnt fit the cards like they were, they stick out on the top, good thing i made enclosures for the doors, unfortunately, the doors are of an old design so i wish best of luck to all the mid 2000's MB owners, i think, no amount of deadening inside and out will make a big difference because of the huge, gaping holes that are only covered by thin ccf that just serves as a water protector, mostly

[@mjmorris72034]

@ RAW-CAt do have links for long handled roller and trim panel pliers or at least the brand information that I can look them up. Thank you for the informative video sir.

[@RAW-CAt]

The roller is from.Vibrofiltr, they sell it with the deadener. The pliers are from AliExpress: a.aliexpress.com/_EGhK01K

[@davidallison976]

My friend, similar issue with power door locks. I used thin rubber washers under the bolts between metal and plastic. Seems to have fixed the issue. May be worth a try?

[@mikexc90]

Alpine also do a later version of the sub amp which is more power, the mrx-m240

[@RAW-CAt]

I know, I have one.

[@johnnygandy3931]

Excellent

[@adampavella1225]

Will you maybe make a sound demo when you're done with the 1st "basic" system?

[@RAW-CAt]

Sorry, no demos.

[@FAS_M6]

I wish you could have got mazda 6 and do this tests

[@mishavo1291]

Thanks for the measurements! But i not belive that you have find the closed cell "Wave" material, check it by water test.

[@RAW-CAt]

Inside the door the foam is closed cell and waterproof. On the door card is open cell.

[@paulwisdom5383]

So close Skoda. On the Mk2 you made a beautiful removable metal inner panel that made treatment and upgrading so easy. But you stuck the midbass by my arse cheeks. On the Mk3 you stuck the midbass back where it should be, and made it a solid inside door with no frame 🤣

[@colbylaro9361]

I just like that word "skoda"

[@JD-vr4ul]

I'm divided now between musway D8V3 and ESX Quantum QL810SP (dsp) + QL800.8 amplifier Esx would be about 1.9x pricier :/ € 584 for musway vs € 1060 for ESX dsp + amp any feedback appreciated

[@RAW-CAt]

I personally like discrete stuff due to ability to swap out gear, but for a simple daily system I would choose a DSP/amp. Check if that musway has a built in fan, as one I was working on was quite loud at times.

[@MrElliotGear]

where is the strip foam from you show at 39:20 ? I need this

[@RAW-CAt]

1mm thick CCF gasket AliExpress special😉

[@rummuhe1492]

if you haven't completed the damping yet, can you measure, on the other hand, finally also the damping of the so-called cardboard, i.e. the innermost, i.e. without sheet metal damping. i.e. the opposite of what was intended? guess that the biggest effect. if you understood/could explain?

[@rummuhe1492]

look to the end, before you ask stupid questions 🤦, you had already taken the matter into account.. but in this case there was also a good Door trim ready from the factory.

[@Htk-es1ky]

what is the software which you are using ?

[@RAW-CAt]

REW

[@CosminCraiova]

Hello ! Great job on the deadening ! The only thing I would do is to completly seal those plastic service pannels with vibrofiltr. Those move like crazy at high volume so they produce resonance that produces distorsion ! I have 2 layers of deadening over my pannels lol :) PS : where did you get that player for removing the door cards from minute 34 kzbin.info/www/bejne/opTdi4utj5yXY7s ? It looks like a nice little tool ! Thx !

[@RAW-CAt]

I might cover them up, thanks for the advice. You can find the tool here: a.aliexpress.com/_EJFL12u

[@CosminCraiova]

@@RAW-CAt thank you !

[@el_taiito5492]

Find the good weight so they can act like passive radiators 😂

[@kraken2109]

Do you do this professionally as a business, or is this just a very serious hobby for you?

[@RAW-CAt]

This is my hobby that I can allocate 5-10 hours a week. I have a full time job not related to car audio.

[@Jake-kb2le]

Hmm isn't mdf better than aluminum for sound quality?

[@RAW-CAt]

MDF is a porous material that absorbs moisture, expands and becomes weak over time in car door environment. It's good for subwoofer boxes though.

[@el_taiito5492]

not really, at least for the speaker ring, stiffer is better, aluminium is better for this. This add some strength to the door panel around the speaker too, a tad more than MDF

[@timothy5977]

Those are the best rings I've ever seen!!! I've cracked so many plastic pos and mdf rings before

[@Jake-kb2le]

Okay, very valid points. I actually destroyed MDF in my car because of moisture. However, the aluminum ring from this video won't fit my car. I think I found an alternative in China, but these rings are about 2 cm shallower than the ones I have right now. I wonder if that will negatively affect the sound.

[@ah4800]

I'll trade you weather. -30 here

[@RAW-CAt]

🥶

[@chloeleedow7250]

Not sure why skoda put that door control module on the plastic how stupid, my Golf door is super similar but doesn't rattle at all because a few things have been arranged differently. On the whole vag cars are great without too much work unlike my old Japanese cars. My golf is pretty new too so might get more rattly as I go 😂

[@malucosom]

Nice Job, But the midbass in this car will always sounds at right center due to the problems with central tunel! I tried everything on this car But no way!

[@soitiharada9063]

Just curiosity why manual transmission car? I love manuals, but here in japan, 90% or more is automatic transmission

[@MrElliotGear]

he is in the UK, here in the uk 90% of us drive manuals, we like a bit more control over the gears and something to play with :D

[@XtrAMassivE]

Traditionally Europe was majority manual transmission, only lately automatic is becoming more popular. Manual just offers better driving experience and more control. In bigger cities people prefer automatic because of slow moving traffic but outside of it manual rules.

[@petereckerwall9423]

This video was a little bit painful to listen to with good headphones.. 🤣♥️🇸🇪

[@LansaDiag]

This is getting increasingly unbearable to listen to. The endless rambling, the constant distractions

[@RAW-CAt]

Yeah I know. I am doing this on purpose to shed some subs. I would recommend you to find some other channels that mostly do time lapse videos or demos over YT. I understand that my content is not for everyone, but I never asked you to subscribe🤷

[@chokboywonda]

Ignore him, ramble away. All the details are in the ramblings and not everybody appreciates detail these days. Keep up your good work 👍

[@customspeakerpods5078]

I personally enjoy the ramblings, this is as close to doing the job yourself as it can be!

[@colbylaro9361]

Why are you here if it's unbearable? Go watch videos of trunk rattles and hair tricks.

[@408SPLKINGS]

In school there's general education & classes you have to attend, this is an elective, a class you choose to attend... Class dismissed schools out sucka