OFF ROAD WRECKER REPAIR by BSF Recovery Team

[@gunny2shoes102]

your tech videos are the best, excellent audio and camera, its easy to see you are a journeyman by trade, and a good one.

[@Kickinpony66]

I like your idea of the heavy-duty off road buggy suspension. I envision Ladder Bars, High-Arch Springs, and a 2.5-ton Rockwell axle! :)

[@rogerdavies6226]

get a duce and half and cut it down. there are some of the cab-over cargo movers that would look Ideal, you can even find surplus rigs that have tire are control and they sell for pennies on the dollar, or less. Try Defense Reutilization and Marketing Service, Battle Creek Mi. worked for them a number of years. They will be able to help you find the next sale and you can take a look.

[@D3thM3tal]

Glad to see that you made it out after this repair - we needed you too! Thanks for getting Tina out of the woods-

[@dennislorden3142]

Nice job on the blocks u made

[@catdieselpower193]

She looks good pard! And ready to get the job done again!! Nice fix bud!! She's a sweet machine!

[@bigtrucker26]

If you like lift blocks and leaf springs, you should probably consider some off-road traction bars, especially considering that you put extra torque loads on the suspension by not only driving difficult terrain, but doing so while trying to pull others at the same time. Off-road traction bars are not the ones you see on muscle cars, rather, they are a link bar, run parallel to the leaf spring, the same length from spring center bolt to non-shackle spring eye, but, run above or below it. Basically, it let's you make a leaf spring become a 4 link. I'm sorry, I'm sure I'm describing it poorly, but I am remembering them from a old jcwhitney catalog. But you could make some link bars, attach one end either near the axle, or above the springs several inches, along the spring center bolt line) and then attach the other end to the frame the same distance above or below (whichever you choose on the other end) the spring eye, while the truck is sitting on the ground. If you can spare the clearance closer to the axle (or even below it), and the same distance from the spring on the other end below the spring hanger, you could get the most benefit in reducing torque loads, and transferring drive power to the truck. This should also eliminate axle wrap, which contributed to the u-bolt and spacer block failure. If you want to put such a bar on above your springs, to maintain clearance, and simplify attachment brackets, I would recommend looking into doubling up on the u-bolts, which, with your current setup, wouldn't be a bad idea, especially given the size of your spacers.... you could either make a new top plate, or a adapter plate sandwiched between the top plate and spring. Happy wheeling

[@TinManKustoms]

Nice repair. Almost wonder if it would be a good idea to add a top link to the top center of the axle. And a sway bar to help prevent the axle from twisting and shift side to side

[@rambo28779]

these would never come out if you would make the plate a little wider and run the u bolts through them to hold them in place

[@MadsWorld34]

thats a good ideal but since he already built them he could just add tabs to extend out to the U bolts.

[@Maker_of_Things]

Either tabs or some tube. Square tube, with a side cut off, would be easy to align and weld in place.

[@JostheRebel]

Awesome job as allways Eric !! Never mind what all the keyboard commanders have to say here...

[@1CRA2YM0F0]

Having fun sure is a hell of a lot of work.

[@xmo552]

1CRA2YM0F0 Amen

[@teamidris]

I was thinking of rear radius arms with rubber bushes added on, but, although the rear axel is moving around a fair bit the flex will take the shock loads out of the drive train. So that current set up might actually be perfect for the truck and it’s work load.

[@Xtroll1738]

A fairly easy fix for the wrecker would be to add a set of locating arms to the rear axle that would prevent axle wrap. With the locating bars, the lift blocks would only have to deal with weight and not rotational stress which is what causes most blocks to fail. As long as the bars move parallel to the leaf springs, they would keep the axle moving only straight up and down. About the only down side to locating bars is possibly a slight loss of ground clearance depending on where you mount them. Benefits are no axle wrap, no wheel hop and a much stronger rear suspension as it would be similar to a 4 link suspension with your existing leaf springs as 2 of the links. The best part is you could as time permits design and build the mounting brackets while still using the truck because your not changing any of the existing suspension parts.

[@nokithecat]

The steel block is so much stronger Having a bigger gap between wrecker body and cab is ok,,,, keeps the body from denting the cab in twisty terrain

[@Build0001]

I have to say that those blocks look really good. Congrats. Just wondering, why not make some trailing arms that attach from your lower axle and then attach to the frame up near the cab. That would eliminate any axle rotation but would allow your current spring rate to stay the same. Cheap fix too.

[@kirbykelley1255]

great job, hope you make it to the next event.

[@kylehereygers83]

Great channel ...love your truck

[@bigbird9186]

Love your videos inventing stuff to use from England

[@kevindegroff7364]

i agree with Darkside on welding the blocks to the perch, then they will not spit out. Also, studding the front axle spring perch (instead of bolts)makes it a lot stronger

[@Rat-Builder]

That is true. One other thing, I use to be a field guy for Caterpillar, and the standard Cat bolts are grade 8, and the bolt threads are formed in, not cut with a die. That makes them stronger. One other thing, the standard bolts are very reasonably priced. Almost the same price as the grade 2 junk bolts that some people sell. Now the speciality bolts, like 12 point head and allan, they will make your wallet bleed.

[@MrHeadshot1982]

Good job i knew you be back keep up the good work.

[@tommykimmel2681]

Same thing happened to me. Same cast blocks. Then made my own.

[@heathersanborn4914]

Can't wait for some trail recovery vids

[@anthonyrobertson1787]

Good luck on the Wrecker

[@DayRider76]

I saw a guy 4x4 for years on oak blocks? thought he was nuts, but it worked!

[@DayRider76]

Won't tow me out of the woods? I only go adventuring in subarus! If you don't blink you might see me passing in one of my pontiacs!

[@kevinhornbuckle]

The custom blocks look plenty strong.

[@xRamRacing]

The rebuild videos are my favorite. that and when you break it towing with it 😂

[@RobKingRC]

It always feels good when you know your truck is home.. lol

[@ucallthatatweet]

I can't remember if I've mentioned this in other video comments, but a lot of people claim that it's worth some possible drilling out to go to 5/8" or larger diameter u-bolts. I replaced some 9/16" u-bolts with them, but I sold the truck within about 2,000 miles.

[@offroadrecoveryteam]

Yes, that is a common up-grade. Mine are 5/8.

[@keltingr2612]

good stuff man you've been makin these videos a long time keep it up

[@dennisbammer123]

Love the videos man keep it up..

[@grandprismatic]

Nice work Eric

[@darkside0914]

since you fabbed your new blocks and they're made from steel not cast, could you weld them directly to the original spring perches on the axle, would doing so make it stronger, basically making the new block and spring perch one solid unit, and prevent the same thing that happened to the other blocks or would there be no benefit to do that

[@kevinhornbuckle]

Good idea.

[@Longtrailside]

I was thinking the same thing. It would keep that thing from spitting out again, and it would be cheap and quick.

[@darkside0914]

the axle is steel as is the factory perch so there would be no problem welding the lift blocks he made to the perches on the axle,

[@jameskiesau7543]

Eric, you are missing one very important message here!! Just like anything else in life there are different ways to build stuff. DO NOT buy those hollow pieces of shit you were handling. Hollow will break ---- solid won't. I've made my own blocks (usually 4") and if you want more grab another 1" block. I build my own, take 1" steel stock and cut it to exact dimensions and weld together. (4 ---1" blocks welded together gets you a 4" block of solid steel. Just gotta drill your center pin hole or centering dimple like you'd need for centering rear axle. See now---can't break, and much more beefy set-up. Blocks are fine --IN THE BACK!! But you definately need a traction control set-up. I would just run a 1.5 " moly tube from a gusseted bracket under rear shocks with heim joints for adjustment up to a drop bracket about 6-12 inches back from your transfer case . An axle truss would'nt hurt a bit for front axle tube either. I've seen them snapped off right past front diff. housing , when we get bouncing -when yur truck pull'in. p.s. there is only 8% lateral movement in the rear. The front can be up to 18-25%. Thx. Jim

[@DrewBrda]

This channel is awesome

[@danielscott6787]

Even with the 3rd hole modified in the front have you thought of using bolts that can be safety wired together? Especially with 3 bolts they should never become a problem again!

[@beachlife1411]

Super nice I have to do the same thing on my f250 4x4 rear bocks

[@jeremyhanna3852]

Weld a tab on the lift block that makes it wider than the u bolt down the center like maybe some 2" wide square tube then theres no way it can come out

[@craiggranstrom8496]

Are you worried at all about driveline angle with the flat blocks since your wrecker doesn't see much road use?

[@16driver16]

I have the same tapered, cast iron blocks on a short bed Chevy, and even on the short truck the taper really sucks, my driveshaft vibrates because the ends are at different angles and my pinion seal is starved on oil and has to be over filled to not burn out... again, I wish I had the ability to build a set of my own.

[@Rat-Builder]

You could make a few measurements and a fab shop could whip you out a pair for not to much money.

[@4-WHEEL-DRIVE]

MAYBE COULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO PUT TRACTION BARS TO STOP ANY AXLE WRAP WITH YOUR GM 14 BOLT

[@MrNosajwhitey]

Hoping to c da wrecker in action after this repair

[@allenpelletier6759]

IF YOUR GOING TO DO ANY OFF ROAD RECOVER, YOUR VEHICLE SHOULD ALWAYS BE IN TIP TOP SHAPE TO BE SUCCESSFUL. GET IN AND GET OUT SAFE. DON'T WAIT TILL IT BREAKS TO FIX IT. RATHER THEN TALK ABOUT IT, FIX IT. ALWAYS GOOD TO KEEP SPARE PARTS.

[@brianjohnston9822]

Over and over, watching various serious of videos, I keep hearing the same thing. We are in a time crunch for another event. Also we hear, we are not ready to do that yet. You need to find the time. You don’t necessarily need to be at every event. Watching this video and looking at the condition of your wrecker, you really need to find some time to work on the wrecker and stop playing catch-up. I don’t think you will ever be able to find the time to do it right and don’t worry, there will always be another event whether you are are there or not. Your son was right, you need to question why you pushed so hard to run that trail. Hard words, and I am sorry for that, maybe it takes a stranger to say what needs to be said.

[@brucemcgowan5651]

Sir. Have you viewed Rory's videos with Towmater? Just an idea. Towmater is a tough well designed off road tow truck. Thank you. Stay safe.

[@offroadrecoveryteam]

Yes Rory and I are good friends, check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWeYqWiHatqfm6s

[@rustybrowneye]

As stiff as those springs are...is leaf spring deflection really an issue with lift blocks on that thing? I wouldn't think so

[@D3thM3tal]

It isn't - wrap bars really wouldn't do anything as you can't wrap nearly 10" of spring.

[@michaelroot6064]

I know it's a dumb question but I just put a new 350 engine in my pickup I'm wondering what kind of oil you do you use in the wrecker

[@offroadrecoveryteam]

I actually use the same oil as I use in my Duramax. 15w-40 Rotella.

[@jamesacker7343]

I think that repair was great. If the cast iron lasted 9 years, then these should never give you any trouble. Why did you not cut them at an angle? Was it not necessary?

[@offroadrecoveryteam]

No, tipping the pinion up for reduced drive line angle was not needed on the wrecker.

[@rickmarshall808]

i thought he explain the angle is needed for short wheel base trucks, and his wrecker is long frame.

[@xmo552]

Eric, I've got an '85 GMC wrecker identical to yours but mine is 2wd. I need a 4x4 recovery truck so I'm considering to make this truck 4x4. I know a 2x4 and 4x4 frame are different. I have a question about the PTO. I run an sm465 and np205. Right now (2x4) my pto is on the passenger side. If I go with a Chevy Dana 60 front will the front driveline interfere with the pto? Is that how you have yours?

[@offroadrecoveryteam]

The PTO will work on the drivers side of the SM465, mine is run by a engine belt driven pump.

[@xmo552]

recoveryteam Thank you!

[@nurburgflip1188]

I'd measure that gap and write it down somewhere for reference.

[@shrimpoido84]

My brother was watching a few of your videos and quickly noticed you are running high psi in your tires. Just wondering why you don't drop a few psi to give you more traction and a bit more of some softer ride. I'm sure you have good reasons just wondering and trying to learn more about wheeling

[@xmo552]

Dennis Bellamy I read somewhere he doesn't because the rears aren't beadlocks

[@weldercastleberry1611]

You made your own why not make them longer for more support

[@wvhillbilly2818]

What size lift are you running on it ?

[@alanack67]

What the hell is wrong with lift blocks on a trail truck. It's not like it's pulling a fifth wheel through the Rocky mountains

[@anthonyyoung7344]

Put two ton springs in it

[@noahchristopher6381]

Traction bars would probably help prevent this

[@xmo552]

I think I remember hearing in one of your videos that you have 8" of Superlift. Those blocks are maybe 6" so did you combine with 2" springs in back and 8" in front? Or is there a body lift included? I didn't see 8" superlift on their site. Maybe it was another brand?

[@paulw9089]

Hey guys sounds like you all need a fab guy that can build well if interested i weld/ fab prodution built alot to be young not a young stupid kid though been though hell to know what i know never gonn stop learning either

[@davidjohnson3163]

Hi uncle

[@MadsWorld34]

cant grip about holding up for 9 years