"Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12a) - Epic New Spooky Offwidth w/ Trad Princess

I found this spectacular, and spectacularly spooky splitter and knew we had an ephemeral classic on our hands. Watch as Evan Wisheropp makes a first ascent and Mary Eden follows it up quickly with the second ascent.
After the crux second pitch, you can continue for two more pitches, culminating in a 20' 5.12 roof offwidth pitch landing you on the rim. The second pitch flake "feels" solid, but who knows how long it will last... geologic time is now!

[@alpinejonny]

The rack to do this is about the same dollar value as a 2021 Sprinter van.

[@catiemonteiro7283]

Dude this was so crazy… can’t believe that’s considered 5.12a. You went to war 🙌 Sick video too!! Can’t wait to see more

[@isaacmurphy5582]

Absolutely mental route there, well done !

[@WJohnson-qz9hg]

As someone who hates ow and has only done a handful of .10/10+ ow, I salute you crushers. I can only imagine the heinous nonsense I’d be trying to get 6 feet up these cracks.

[@EvanWisheropp]

10+ OW is honestly real deal. I think that’s the peak of pure blue collar grovel.

[@WJohnson-qz9hg]

@@EvanWisheropp my quads are cramping again just thinking about it

[@Varnziful]

Love watching those cams getting chucked in!!! Such a good sound

[@billking8843]

I found this by clicking on a 'sport climbing' button. Dozens of sport climbers probably need smelling salts after watching it.

[@EvanWisheropp]

😂 yeah just a few QuickDraws needed

[@billking8843]

Wot a fecking nightmare. 😂 You must have loved it.

[@kevinjohnston8399]

I've only ever held a snake in my hands a few times, but it feels like they're just all muscle, nothing else, muscle from one side to the other. Mary reminds me of a snake.

[@EvanWisheropp]

🤔🧐🫣🤭😅😂

[@Rossmt]

Insane! Looks like an absolute battle.

[@EvanWisheropp]

Do it at the beginning of your trip 😅

[@jeffb.1555]

Wide boys need to come climb this. Would love to see them struggle on this massive flake.

[@SethPierceClimbing]

That was a whole new level of claustrophobia

[@EvanWisheropp]

Is it still claustrophobia if you’re simultaneously worried about getting crushed or also having half the crack fall off? Ha!

[@SethPierceClimbing]

@@EvanWisheropp clautrafallbia

[@lucasspiegel]

Sick line! Seems a bit precarious....how long until that whole thing collapses I wonder

[@EvanWisheropp]

Tomorrow perhaps?

[@randydewees7338]

From a geological time perspective, it's already gone.

[@v0hero691]

Rad. That rack you can safely free so many lines!

[@lovis_hertel]

oh my gosh! i wish i could go there every now and then! looks sooo nice and there are also just no offwidths in germany...

[@sethgilbertson2474]

So incredibly EPIC!

[@sket179]

I'd be terrified of sliding down. It seems uncomfortable and claustrophobic.

[@pants-on-head4368]

- rocks! - roxanne!

[@fredbaessler3277]

This is like the Ironie time in the 70th. No More !!!

[@dennislrobertson]

Cool climb! 😁

[@kevinjohnston8399]

1:24 just sucked all the air out of my lungs!

[@466527888]

Why do you often place two cams next to each other? The placements of protection looks very solid, if it was smaller cams like #1-#3 in similar narrower crack i would say it will be super-bombproof. Is this due to the large size of the cams or are there some other reasons?

[@EvanWisheropp]

That's a super great question, you're pretty much spot on. Usually, with big cams, we want to bump them a long ways so we don't have to carry a bunch of them, but then that means we're relying on a single cam. Large cams can be funky and randomly slip or twist out, so the larger the cam, the more likely we are to bump two simultaneously. I also placed a few big bros, which turned out to be very redundant and unnecessary. I also like to place tons of gear when doing a first ascent, cause I never know if I'm going to run into hollow rock.

[@sket179]

2:50 and that's why we start cleaning from top down. 😅 Although here it would be impossible, or can you reach the top some other way?

[@EvanWisheropp]

I had really wanted to go in from the top, I did it once on a nearby route, but they closed the closest road. We ended up going ground-up on a line to the left, then rapped down this line. I think another hour of cleaning and it should sparkle ✨

[@dereksmalls7808]

@@EvanWisheropp No joke, have you considered using a battery powered leaf blower? A gang of us up here in Ontario use em for the finishing touches on our routes. seems like it'd do wonders for sand...

[@EvanWisheropp]

@@dereksmalls7808 I actually have two different sizes of them, but had so much stuff I decided not to bring one. That was stupid of me. {facepalm}

[@ccolagio_]

9:52 most unique rest of all time. this shits wild!

[@Dothackfreak11]

where's the exit wound video bruh

[@walkerig1]

Very technical.

[@randydewees7338]

Mary is called Trad Princess, I think she's the Queen of Chicken Wings on this climb!

[@spartacus8661]

I'd trust Trad Princess with my life, and I don't say that lightly

[@EvanWisheropp]

That makes two of us (at least)

[@ryanwsu4]

Trying to figure out what’s going on at 2:14 Is he belaying with his left hand and hauling something small with his right hand? I can’t quite figure it out

[@EvanWisheropp]

Yep, You're exactly right. The right hand is hauling up a mini-haul bag with snacks, water, and jackets.

[@walkerig1]

Caving as a climbing technique.

[@pyrexqueen-sp8kb]

how long is that second pitch ? o_0 ^^

[@EvanWisheropp]

I think we measured 150’

[@pyrexqueen-sp8kb]

@@EvanWisheropp sweet lord ^^

[@andrewhunter6536]

Is that first piece on pitch 2 a link cam? I tried to zoom but it was blurry. Oh a few seconds later we see it again. Looks like a link cam

[@EvanWisheropp]

Keen eye! Yes, indeed! The crack goes from .3 up to 10", so bumping the link cam was pretty awesome.

[@ellingwood1]

You spend your life savings on those cams? Lol.

[@EvanWisheropp]

Yes. Literally. 😅

[@msalty2823]

Spooky? maybe horrific. The most gut wrenching scary gravel with pounds and pounds of giant cams. This is no sane person's idea of a good time. But hey, it looks good on you guys. Cheers

[@eclipsearchery9387]

Umm...well...that looked 'interesting' ;)

[@setadoon]

Only .12a? 😅

[@EvanWisheropp]

It’s so hard to grade offwidths. I feel like offwidth grades hardly mean anything. A 12a sport climb is definitely so much less draining.

[@dawntreader7079]

belly full of bad berries. that's all.

[@tradprincess]

belly full is a classic. Really clean and safe.

[@alexanderbonnet3494]

I wanna buy Friends for 2000 bucks..

[@d3tuned378]

"trad princess" 🤮🤮🤮 Gilead sons of Jacob vibes