Ohm Walsh 2 Speaker Upgrade P2: Let’s Do It!

In the last video, I told you about the history of the Ohm Walsh 2 and how its unconventional design contributes to its unique imaging. I also told you about an upgrade kit that’s available for the Walsh 2 which I ultimately decided to purchase. In this video, I’ll show you how I installed the upgrade kit with some helpful tips and interesting bits along the way. It’s fairly comprehensive and not just a quick how-to. If you’re interested in stereo equipment though, vintage or otherwise, you’ll probably find it interesting. Even if you don’t own an Ohm speaker or have one with plans to upgrade.
The Ohm Walsh 2 is a vintage speaker from 1982. It is a vintage eighties speaker. It is now considered an antique speaker. How do antique speakers sound? How do old speakers compare? Ohm speakers have been handmade in Brooklyn since 1971.
#speakers #speakerreviews #electronicsrepair #stereo #stereorepair #speakerrepair

[@FluxCondenser]

Check out my other video about the first stereo cassette deck ever made! kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnfPeGejZdqki9E

[@photohum]

Thank you for doing these videos! 👍👍

[@FluxCondenser]

My pleasure, glad you’re enjoying them.

[@brydon10]

Awesome video man, so in depth. Ohm speakers always interest me.

[@FluxCondenser]

Thanks! Much appreciated.

[@eliascabrera7139]

I wanna thank you for making this. I’m buying my first pair of Walshes tomorrow and I would like to get the upgrade kit in due time. This video is exactly what I was hoping I could find. Hoping my room welcomes The Ohm Walsh 2 🤠

[@FluxCondenser]

Thanks, Elias. Glad to be of assistance. I wish you many years of happy listening with your Walsh 2s!

[@rexhorrell]

I’ve wanted a pair of ohm speakers since the early 80’s. I might try and find a vintage pair. Great video.

[@FluxCondenser]

Thanks. Yeah, if you haven’t heard them, they’re worth seeking out, for sure.

[@kens9775]

I'm glad I saw this upgrade video...as I was considering doing the upgrade. I find the early Walsh2's are a great sounding dome type speaker...but but after seeing this video, they look cheaply made. Considering in 1982 a set would cost over $800+US. I was very fortunate an elderly next door neighbor gave me his mint rarely used set for free. But the fact that most of the original components that will be upgraded...are glued, and not affixed with screws. Well, I'm going to just keep my W2's in it's original state...considering they are almost in new condition, and the upgrade to me isn't worth it. Also, I would suggest to keep the beautiful Rose wood veneer case (or what ever your model veneer was used) looking great...use (regularly) lemon oil, to ensure the veneer doesn't dry out, and or fade. Just don't get any of the lemon oil on the top black part where the covers sit. The old can absorb into the material and ruin it, and replacement covers are $150US..plus tax.

[@daviddrake6875]

I am curious according to Z review the 2000 “woofer” has a phase plug. Can you use a strong flashlight and look to see if your replacement module “Woofer” has a phase plug?

[@atomiclitterbox8526]

Thanks for this video, especially disassembling the module! I was a bit surprised by the damage to the module in shipping. Sorry Ohm, that didn't happen in shipping so either our presenter here is lying or Ohm is and I'm siding with the presenter. Ohm - FAIL. Also for the price of this upgrade Ohm should have created a plate that adapts the new module to the cabinet and enables the screws to bite into the thicker part of the particle board. This was a poorly thought out part of the upgrade. Ohm - FAIL

[@monkey401]

I have a walsh 2 and was considering making a video like this when I buy the upgrade kit, but it looks like you beat me to it! Loved the video! Now the question is: in your next video, did you happened to record the old Walsh 2 sound to compare to the new 2000 driver? If so I’m really looking forward to watching your results.

[@FluxCondenser]

Yes, I did record the sound and have some high quality recordings of the original and upgrade as well as some other speakers in my system for comparison. Stay tuned.

[@quadcopterhobbyshansie_fpv5895]

Ehhm sorry, dont want to be rude. But is that the way, just hole is just made in the bottem for basreflex port? Really isnt a high end speaker then is it,... must sound real good, because it doesnt look like a expensive high end speakerbuild.

[@New-tu3mn]

Your video confirmed for me that Ohm utilizes a ‘normal’ driver unit in its current products. The Lincoln Walsh driver, as utilized in the original Ohm-A, was not a ‘normal’ driver. The cone of a true Walsh driver is much more steeply shaped than that of a normal driver. Reminiscent of a cheerleading hand megaphone, except much smaller. The reason for that was, the idea that the speed of the acoustic wave traveling down the cone could produce a coherent, singular acoustic wave launch to the air by virtue of the narrow cone profile. This cone geometry, while something like a normal driver, still was different enough to require a custom designed and produced driver. Which, not surprisingly, was expensive, among other challenges presented by its unique design.

[@UnripeBeef]

Awesome video, but be wary about those "sound isolation foams", it could be made of asbestos by your description "dense and fibrous", you need dust respirator dealing with those.

[@FluxCondenser]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. As these speakers date from the 80s, my guess is that the foam used is far more likely to be fiberglass-based than asbestos. I have occasionally run across asbestos in the antique radios I’ve restored, usually for heat control for the wood cabinet in proximity to hot vacuum tubes. You make a good point, though, that it’s always a good idea to wear a mask when opening old equipment. You just never can be sure. Also, often there’s mildew or rodent urine and feces which is best to not breathe.

[@MichaelLivingston-me]

Nice job with your video. It's quite helpful. From my experience in buying raw speakers and constructing speaker cabinets, these are modest drivers. The idea of allowing the sound wave to radiate from all sides (except for intentional absorption on one side) then directing it in a large arc, plus mounting the tweeter mostly free of the baffle gives them their sound signature. Of the two drivers, the tweeter is the most impressive of the two. It's motor structure utilizes a large magnet, while the bass (woofer), utilizes a modest magnet. I can't tell for sure, but I would say the design places the crossover frequency fairly low, 1250 to 1450Hz, which for a dome or a cone tweeter (non horn loaded) is rather low. The 8 inch (estimated size) woofer handles the lowest frequencies. Since the tweeter has to go that low. It has to be fairly substantial in order to not burnout and be able to move a bit of a greater excursion than most two way designs. This is the better part of this design because any speaker designed to handle the lowest frequencies has a mass that prevents it from the faster attack and higher frequencies in piano, percussive, and even higher voice images. These speakers have been given rave reviews for many years, in spite of what I consider their use of relatively low cost drivers. These speakers have been around for awhile, but they in no way represent the original Ohm A or F design. I'm familiar with the sound out of the Ohm F. A friend of mine owned them back in the '70's. Expensive to construct, heavy weights, they required an amplifier with substantial power, best served up in that era by Phase Linear, Crown, or Ampzilla. I can see why the owner designer changed Walsh's ideas to still give that wide dispersion sound. I know this is somewhat of a wet blanket explanation, but I certainly would like to hear these in a room with Vanderstein 3a's. Similar in terms of elimination of many cabinet defractions, he uses multiple drivers to cover the wide audio range. Search on line for the internal speaker and cabinet choices. It's of course different and not inexpensive, but gives you an idea of what using higher quality drivers can do to achieve similar results. I'm not connected with any company or designer. What you did for me here is show how a clever design, even with low cost drivers, can still create a good sounding product. The bulbs aren't likely to burn out. I remember Polk used them for awhile. They simply increase resistance as they heat up and light. The increased resistance lowers the current to the tweeter, and the applied signal mostly drops across the bulbs. You hear the change in sound output and likely will lower the volume. The bulbs will continue to work and your sound will be restored unless you keep the volume too high.

[@FluxCondenser]

Glad you enjoyed the video series, Michael.

[@budzlightyear2212]

These relatively "low cost drivers" are HAND BUILT in Brooklyn NY my dude...

[@russelldurtschi]

That's odd. My upgrade came with the switches on the outside though one of the switches doesn't work. Fortunately I like the way it sounds so I haven't bothered with it.

[@FluxCondenser]

Hm, that is curious. Perhaps they made a recent change? If you did indeed purchase the same upgrade kit as shown in the video you might want to confirm that they sent you the correct crossover assembly. I’m glad the busted switch doesn’t bother you, but geez, that’s unacceptable considering the upgrade cost. I’m recalling that when I received my upgrade both speaker canisters were dented. One wasn’t too bad, but the other was completely pushed in and unacceptable. Their customer service is good (they rushed out two replacements for me), but I gotta wonder what’s going on there as far as quality control these days.

[@CybershamanX]

(22:44) Yeah, that affects the bass reflex tuning of the cabinet. If you look up how to determine the size/length of your port(s) when building your own speakers, you'll see why. Basically, it has to do with the natural free air resonance frequency point (the frequency at which they will harmonically oscillate with very little power input) of the woofer(s) you have installed. So, since you're replacing the woofers, the new ones obviously would have different characteristics than the older ones, hence why they needed to recalculate the tuning of that port. :) EDIT: also, having a rounded edge might also help reduce what's called "choofing" or port buzzing.

[@FluxCondenser]

The port wasn’t retuned, though. It’s the same port, same dimensions. They just added the plastic insert, that yes, with the rounded edge could potentially reduce air turbulence. Careful listening, however, revealed no benefit to my ears.

[@CybershamanX]

@@FluxCondenser The insert makes the inside diameter of the port smaller which will have an affect. The differences between the drivers are probably pretty similar which would require a little tuning. ;)

[@FluxCondenser]

The insert has very little depth, so it would not consequentially affect the tuning of the port.

[@CybershamanX]

(13:00) Me thinks it's some sort of non-ferrous insulator material. Iron? Mmmm... That broke that easily? Yeah, some sort of "ceramic-y" material. I would really like to take a look at the crossover schematic. Wondering if the switches on the bottom use one or the other coil/inductor depending on the setting (along with different capacitors/resistor combos). Pretty certain the smaller coil and film/poly capacitor on the crossover board are for the tweeter. All in all, just your pretty basic 2nd order crossover with what look to be fairly good components. :)

[@FluxCondenser]

The insulating material of an inductor affects it’s effective frequencies in a tuned circuit. Iron/ferrite is typically used for lower frequencies and air insulators for higher frequencies. I discuss this in more detail in my earlier videos about how radios work, particularly the ones on IF transformers.

[@CybershamanX]

@@FluxCondenser Yes. However, I couldn't tell if it was actually inside the inductor or just being used as a spacer. :)

[@timthomson9376]

looks like the new speaker you installed at 53:00 was the metal surround was dented in badly on the side?

[@FluxCondenser]

Hi, Tim. Yes, as stated in the video, Ohm supplied me with two modules that were dented, one worse than the other. At minute 53, I show the badly dented module being installed and state that it is temporary just to check the screw holes alignment. At that point, the replacements that Ohm sent me had not been delivered yet. Later in the video, I show the unboxing of the replacement modules.

[@timthomson9376]

@@FluxCondenser My mistake, for not hearing that part about the dent at 36:00. I own 2 pairs of Ohms the FRS-11 and FRS-15, and will be sending in soon for surround repair/maintenance, and also getting some new grills. I Love the Ohm/Walsh speakers! I've had a lot a high end speakers over the years, but I'd never sell my Ohms.

[@FluxCondenser]

It’s great that Ohm still offers reasonably priced repairs for their older speakers. I really enjoyed the Walsh 2s before I upgraded them, now I find them unpleasant and fatiguing. Beware the upgrades.

[@CybershamanX]

I can't believe they thought it was OK to have a switch on the INSIDE of the cabinet. WTF were they thinking? Out of curiosity, did you end up leaving it in the middle, which is what I assume is the default position?

[@FluxCondenser]

Yes, all tests were done in the middle, neutral position. Agreed, the internal switches? Unacceptable.

[@tonskimojster]

Hey, awesome video! Do you still have the brown grills? I need to replace one and that color is not being provided any more. Let me know if you'd like to sell one of them. Thanks

[@FluxCondenser]

Thanks. I’m out of the country now and will be for some time so I don’t have access to the grilles.

[@tonskimojster]

@@FluxCondenser It is not an urgent matter, just let me know when you're back, and whenever it's convenient to you, please. Thank you, Gabe

[@FluxCondenser]

Will, do. But not certain I’d want to part with them. I’ll think about it.

[@i.dig.wax.5805]

When will part 3 be uploaded? I have the Ohm Walsh 1 and plan on upgrading too.

[@FluxCondenser]

Thank you for asking. I will be starting to work on the video next week. It’s taken a while because I’m evaluating the sound quality and want to make sure I get it right. I’ve been doing a lot of listening to the upgraded speakers and comparing them to others I own. This weekend, I want to try to confirm what I’m hearing with some test equipment. Stay tuned!

[@i.dig.wax.5805]

@@FluxCondenser Sounds good. Thanks for the reply. I'm interested to hear your opinion on the improvements, especially in regards to frquency response and any dips being fixed with the upgrade.

[@FluxCondenser]

I.DIG.WAX. Today I did some measurements of the speaker to try to confirm what I’m hearing and I was able to see with my eyes what I’ve been hearing with my ears. I don’t have the same measurements for the original Walsh 2 before the upgrade, but I have recordings of the speaker before and after the upgrade playing the same song. I wanted to reveal my findings in the third video (which I will and I’ll elaborate on), but since you’re looking for some buying advice I can tell you that the upgrade introduced a mid-bass bump that was not there with the original and I’m not going to recommend the upgrade.

[@i.dig.wax.5805]

@@FluxCondenser Thanks for the info. I want to ask more but I'll wait until the video is uploaded. Don't want to ruin it for the other viewers.

[@monkey401]

I do wonder if the 2000 driver sounds more refined than the 2. I also have the FRS 15 which is a generation or two newer and the sound is more rounded and refined. I am guessing that the 2000 driver also sounds more refined than the 2.

[@gonz0101]

Can I replace just the crossovers?

[@FluxCondenser]

The kit I purchased was intended to be used with the new woofer and tweeter so I wouldn’t recommend buying it for the crossovers. You could certainly update or upgrade the original crossover, but it’s difficult to access or remove. In my discussions with Ohm, they didn’t think changes or a rebuild were necessary for the original Walsh 2 crossover unless they were exhibiting issues. If you want to investigate altering your crossovers, I’d suggest calling Ohm directly. They’re generally extremely helpful and responsive.

[@jigsawdigitalinc.8865]

This is now $1900. Ouch. Plus a lot of work. May just leave mine original.

[@koprcord5338]

Gotta question the micky mouse engineering genius who designed that crossover and switch. Something so simple should be user friendly.

[@robtremble2277]

Howards for the win leave that Howards on it will turn ester looking speakers to Lena Horne

[@robertdavis5714]

stamped steel woofer speaker frame, for what they charge would expect something a little more professional.

[@FluxCondenser]

I agree. These are not impressively built drivers.

[@snakepliskin1185]

1400? They should come to your house and install it for that much.

[@FluxCondenser]

I know, right?

[@danedewaard8215]

Just use plain old mineral oil which is probably the main ingredient in all those products! Wipe on, wait 10 minutes, then wipe off.

[@FluxCondenser]

Dan Edewaard, just use the product I suggested. It’s a wax, not an oil. Oils leave a greasy residue that’s a magnet for dust and fingerprints. When you buff them enough to remove the residue, they add very little shine or protection. The product I recommended is superior.

[@danedewaard8215]

I wonder why many on the great vintage speaker manufacturers would advertise the use of “Oiled Walnut Veneer” on their finest loudspeakers? The oil penetrates and keeps the wood moist, preventing veneer shrinkage, while a wax puts on a top coat which prevents penetration and is very difficult to remove! Mineral oil is the basis of many of the wood revitalizing products like lemon oil, which is mineral oil with a lemon scent! I just finished a pair of Dynaco A25s with mineral oil (wipe on, wait 10 minutes, wipe off). You don’t need to spend a lot to make your speakers look good!!!!!!!!!!!

[@FluxCondenser]

The proof is in the results. The oil products were vastly inferior to the winning product in my demonstration. The results shown are indisputable. Use what you like, but it’s foolish to try to argue with what was so clearly demonstrated.

[@danedewaard8215]

I just like to oil my speakers from time to time. The wax will prevent the oil from penetrating the next time I want to oil them. I don't want the veneer to dry out and shrink, which would lead to delamination.

[@FluxCondenser]

You can do both. Oil and then cover with the wax I suggest. The oil nourishes and the wax adds a non-greasy shine that doesn’t disappear once it’s wiped dry. Again, as shown in the video, superior to the oil. The wax will not make it impossible to oil again as its well established that mineral oil easily breaks down the wax and will penetrate the wood. I’ve read or seen no reputable article or demonstration that a high quality wax will lead to “delaminating wood.” Nonsense.

[@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez]

I like your channel, but I truly hate these speakers.

[@FluxCondenser]

Ha! Speakers certainly are a personal choice.