*OLD-Check Description* Unleash Your Astrophotography skills using NINA Polar Align: Ultimate Guide!

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Update: I will be posting an update to this video soon going over the alignment process more in depth and demonstrating the second run. In the meantime, NINA’s disclaimer I point out in the video states the first run is can have a large error and a second run is recommended to get an accurate alignment. All you need to do is get close in the first run as I demonstrate. After that, press the stop button and then press the play button. NINA will automatically slew to the start position you specified for the first run and then you do your alignment just like you did on the first run. Stay tuned for the updated video!

[@giuseppecanuzzi4688]

I m pretty new in astronomy and astrophotography field, I m processing a lot of information about polar alignment but this tutorial about NINA has been very clear, thanks

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

I’m very happy this helped you! Let me know if you need anything or have recommendations!

[@Bracecomb]

Thanks for the useful video, very helpful.

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

You are very welcome, I’m happy it helped!

[@KJRitch]

I'm new to astrophotography. I have an C8 SCT with AVX mount. 6.3 focal reducer, Celestron OAG, ASI174mm and my main camera ASI071MC Pro. I just starting using NINA on a Mele Quieter 3Q miniPC. I'm using PHD2 and learning how that program works. PHD2 recommends calibrating close to stars close to DEC = 0 near the celestial equator.Other youTube channels like Cuiv, didn't mention the double check procedure. He did compare NINA's results with SharpCap's polar alignment check and showed polar alignment was off 6 arc minutes.. I notice PHD2 has a polar drift alignment procedure. Last night I got under one arc minute using NINA and slewed to a star close to the celestial equator and PHD2 reported my polar alignment was off too much to calibrate within PHD tolerances. When I performed the NINA polar align I didn't go back for the second phase like you recommend. My question is how has your experience using NINA polar alignment and PHD2 calibration and guiding? Does PHD2 give you good calibration results and not report polar alignment problems? I'm thinking of trying PHD2 Drift Alignment procedure. Maybe PHD2 guiding works better using PHD2 polar alignment? Thanks

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

I love the question! Yes, if I don’t perform the second round of polar alignment in NINA, I have had issues with PHD2 calibration and have been as far off as 25 arc minutes. The disclaimer I point out in the video is what prompts you to do the second round and in the early days, I never noticed that so that might be why Cuiv doesn’t mention it. Since doing the second round I have had 0 PHD2 calibration issues related to polar alignment. In fact, I’ve had 0 polar alignment issues as far as heavy drifting etc since doing the second round. I like to think of it as NINA is plate solving the first photo and then slews to the second spot to plate solve and it’s expecting to be in a specific area. After plate solving that, it goes to the third spot and plates solves that area so it can calculate the error of the expected location compared to actual (this is also why your focal length and camera information need to be accurate as well. The second round gives it a final and more accurate idea of exactly what the error is since it’s an average based alignment. This is a very accurate and reliable alternative to using a system like SharpCap or ASI air where you are required to be in a specific part of the sky with a specific field of view that might cause you to need a different camera to obtain. The trade off is NINA just asks you to perform the procedure twice. PHD2 drift align is a very accurate polar alignment method, but also very time consuming and not very practical to perform every time you’re going to image. It would be a good procedure for a permanently mounted pier though.

[@KJRitch]

@@Hidden.Light.Photography Thanks, I'll give NINA polar alignment another go. I reviewed a couple of videos on PHD2 drift align and it seems very tedious, one youTuber said the fastest he was able to do the drift was 40 minutes. I have a polar scope in my AVX. In locations where I can see Polaris I'll use that first, can't hurts, and only takes a couple of minutes.

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Persistence, patience and practice is key to this hobby. I love your drive in this and I know you will master this! I am actually going to be making a second part to this video once skies clear to demonstrate the process more clearly and include the second run as well

[@brucenunn3268]

Definitely has been a Difficult Process for me and has put off even getting the scope out.. My last Session I had a horrible experience trying to just get polar aligned and ultimately wasn’t successful that night. I had several issues and then dew started to fall on my Finder scope and I remember finally calling it a night after a long time of trying. I have a Celestron 8” Reflector Telescope on the Advanced VX Mount and it is a Beast of a scope and as you know it takes time to setup. I have gotten better at it but still takes time. I also take my images from the back yard and was very Successful at capturing Saturn one night and processed it to get an incredible image. I remember how I felt after processing my final image of Saturn and was amazed just how good it came out. I am Definitely going to have to look into NINA and how to use it to make my Polar Alignment Process much Easier and faster. As you said we only have a limited amount of time under the Dark Sky’s at night.. Thanks for this video and all the other ones.. I just Subscribed to your channel and am Definitely going to look around and check out the other videos. - Clear Sky’s - 👊😎

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Polar alignment has caused me to pack up as well in the beginning. I remember completely giving up on polar scope and moving to the hand controller on my AVX. That led to more time used because after I was done with that, then I had to set up my imaging gear. I tried SharpCap’s polar alignment, but my FOV wouldn’t work for its restrictions. I then finally found NINA’s 3PPA. Yes, setting up can sometimes take some time, and as with anything, practice makes perfect. Always remember, it’s not a race and rushing leads to mistakes. Set up is your foundation so let experience be your speed. Just focus on smooth and steady and you will master the art! Saturn is an amazing target and I’m happy you got a shot you’re happy with! It is definitely an amazing feeling, but you should never be disappointed in anything you capture at all, even if it’s not something you’re necessarily happy with! That’s your gauge for your progress and you should always hang onto those! I am glad you enjoyed the video and if you need help with anything, I’m always here!

[@KJRitch]

Is this the only method to polar align in NINA? What happens if the developer decides not to support this plug in or dies? I've been using ASIAir and am now setting up a mini PC. ASIAir has two methods, one like this and another when Polaris is in view. I can usually get to 0° 0' 5-10". When you stopped the alignment then started it up the telescope mount is still in the last position? I wish you had finished this procedure to the end. Does the mount do an initial move to 60° then come back still. I watched Cuiv's video and the scope moves to 60° then comes back in increments for the next two plate solves. Is there no visual representation showing how far off you are?

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

These are great questions. As far as I am aware, this is the only polar alignment method in NINA, but there’s always a chance someone else with develop a different method. As with any software, there’s always a risk of support going away. After I did the initial alignment, I stopped and restarted as the first set is not 100% accurate (and this is the instruction I point to in the video). When you restart, it goes back to the initial position as set by the altitude/azimuth coordinates that we set in the beginning and then it’ll move in the increments you set and plate solve. It shows your distance off in the error field after it does the last plate solve in the set and will loop exposures and plate solve until you stop the process. I hope this helps and if you like, I can make a separate video showing this process alone from start to finish. I apologize, I cut the second process short as the video was getting long and it was the same process.

[@KJRitch]

When you finish the first stage where you are within 5' of polar alignment and you stop the process do you move the scope back to it's starting position so there is room to move the scope without hitting the tripod? If the scope remains in the previous location another 20 degree x 3 wouldn't the scope hit the tripod? Thanks

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Great question! No, I just hit the play button again. Once you command the mount to move from the home position with a slew to target or polar alignment in this case, the computer always knows where the mount is located through the encoders. When you stop and hit play again, NINA will automatically put it back to original coordinates you set for the start position of NINA’s 3PPA. If you unlock and move manually, NINA will have no idea that happened so it’ll think the scope is in one position when in fact, it is in another position.

[@KJRitch]

OK, I'll test that the next session. Thanks

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

You are very welcome. Think of the play button as a go to command. Let me know if you run into any issues and I’m more than happy to assist! 😀

[@Bills_APCh]

What if you don’t have access to a 1500 dollar phone to roughly polar align?

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Great question! Any phone that can lay flat and has or can download a compass will work beautifully for this. If that isn’t available, then a basic compass will work perfectly as well, just make sure you set it on the tripod the same way each time so you are consistent from night to night.

[@mikeh9180]

not much difference than sharp cap or asi air

[@Hidden.Light.Photography]

Sharp Cap and ASI Air are great programs, but if you run into inability to be in the sky region or field of view requirements set by ASI Air and Sharp Cap, this is a good alternative.