Old job new setup because of stress in material.

Machining a new fixture/setup for a job I have been doing for the last 20 years because of a change in the material.

[@jimsvideos7201]

Thank you as always for sharing! I hope everyone will consider how much time it takes to get all the footage for an intro like that, even if you have enough cameras that you only need to set them up once and cycle the machine once!

[@EdgePrecision]

It’s all done with one camera.

[@jimsvideos7201]

@@EdgePrecision In that case my hat is off to you a second time for the patience.

[@EdgePrecision]

@@jimsvideos7201 I didn’t really take long. I had exactly in mind what clips I wanted. So I just jogged the magazine for some and did about six actual tool changes. I would say it took around 30-45 minutes. It probably took longer to edit it. I didn’t keep track of the exact time. None of the first tool change is changed in speed. And it’s all just straight cuts. In fact the whole video is just straight cuts. No transitions. I very seldom use transitions. Just the cross fade. That’s it.

[@raulgolfs]

Peter crushing it with the content bud! Great shots on that equipment! 🤘🏽

[@floodo1]

I really enjoyed the intro with all the camera angles around the machine.

[@FinnoUgricMachining]

Thanks for all the effort You put into editing these videos and their audio. These are a joy to watch and listen! FYI, I really didn't like watching all those "awesome" CNC videos until I came across Your interpretation of CNC. Cool.

[@lolhleplol]

Thanks for taking the time to make these excellent videos

[@mazatroltipsandtricks6816]

Awesome video Peter. Never seen a mill vise used in this fashion before.

[@stuarthardy4626]

Great video as usual Peter. the thing that I find interesting is how machine tools evolved from the early very crude machine to the the super precise ones we have today . they started as very inaccurate ones but due to the operators made parts that were more accurate than the machine they were produced on

[@buixote]

Scary how close spindle gets to the pallet... a good time for that trick you showed us about "distance to go"! Great video, as always!

[@parkashparkash3053]

I love this channel as it represents a real world machine shop while the titans of CNC make more of a movie jobs that most of machine shops can't afford .

[@gwharton68]

Always informative. Have a great weekend.

[@max_eley]

Awesome video, loved the tracodial milling, editing is really good also!

[@tedsaylor6016]

Note, the current "Mr T - BOOM" vids are more reasonable these days as his operation moved to Texas from Kali and his team is doing more of the videos - they are more down to earth.

[@paulmace7910]

Nice shots of a well used machine. Thanks for taking us along. Kudos on your problem solving abilities to get your customer quality parts.

[@4GSR]

A well used machine in darn good shape for it's age!!!

[@aaron80769]

First thing I do when I fire up one of your videos is “Smash the like button” because I’m about to learn something!

[@TroubledTimes2024]

Always a grate job explaining not just what you are doing but the why.

[@StackedWashingMachine]

Mesmerizing to watch all the angles. Thanks for the video

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

You the man Peter!

[@Iceberg86300]

I was kinda freaking out before I realized you cutting a corner relief there! Great video!

[@XXCoder]

Amazing. I like how its setup.

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very good video peter..thanks for your time

[@jasonhill2180]

Nice vise art! Hadn't noticed that before. 😀 Great video as usual.

[@dmbworks8094]

i worked for a company that had a few parts which done all at once would twist. their process was heavy rough and then release. re-setup the part to relieve the stress before finishing. they never also rotated the part, but they were in vertical machines so maybe one less thing to worry about.

[@artmckay6704]

Always interesting and informative! Thank you! :)

[@erimora8075]

Peterrrrrr, we need more videos, greetings

[@EdgePrecision]

I know. I just been real busy working on stuff I can’t show in a video. Thanks!

[@eddie5556]

Holy smokes that horizontal has a Ton of tools loaded up. Small fortune right there.

[@freightdawg6762]

Great camera placements Awesome video

[@skirifles2076]

Thats an awesome looking part stop. I wish I knew a guy that was making and selling them. 😁

[@EdgePrecision]

It’s my design. I had intended to build some. I have the material for 40 assemblies. But I just haven’t got around to finish them.

[@skirifles2076]

@@EdgePrecision I know! I was just being funny.

[@eddie5556]

I thought those looked really familiar. Put me down for a pre-order please.

[@poetac15]

Thanks for this great video!

[@abbeschakchouk9060]

When I see the care you take making these parts, then the way we use those blocks , I just wonder does it really has to be this tight of a tolerance !

[@SailingYachtDreamcatcher]

Great content as always! 🙏

[@TylerBrigham]

Ive had recent warping issues on some 7075 parts. The supply changed from domestic to Chinese. It was not very fun

[@EdgePrecision]

That’s interesting. I didn’t say it was 7075 but you are correct. This batch and the one before have given me trouble.

[@jakea7065]

I was thinking the exact same thing. If the material is the same, I suspect they switched to a cheap Chinese supplier, and this is the result.

[@drummerhammar]

Nice work once again!

[@soaphelps]

hoe much tooling do you have? Peter: YES!

[@akfarmboy49]

I like your vise extension

[@richardbradley961]

THANK YOU PETER, REGARDS RICHARD.

[@ke6gwf]

It sounds like the metal is absorbing the same stress the rest of humanity is feeling right now.. Good work at figuring out how to compensate for it! I do the same for humans lol

[@michaelpiotrowicz6100]

Nice camera work!

[@ericwebster6911]

Inflation must even be stressing out the metal stock. Yikes!

[@SuperAWaC]

what brand end mill are you using there around 2 minutes to notch out that corner? Really performed nicely with no coolant.

[@TheTrex600ESP]

I have also notice big change in stress in material. In the worst case i have to flip between 3-4 times, depends how much roughing inside, or how big pockets.

[@bcbloc02]

Whenever I get into material that starts crawling around when I machine it I always wonder how much does it go out of spec later after it’s had some real stress and heat cycles.

[@CeErCeEr]

Hello Peter, Thanks for sharing, great video again, At 4:36, prior tool seems like S shaped positive style insert, Its corner angle is 90 but after this tool drill comes and probably its point angle is bigger than 90 degree, So first contact with part occures at the outer corners of the drill, not the center point, What is the tricky detail in here :) Best regards.

[@EdgePrecision]

In my opinion it is always better that your spot drill has a sharper angle than your drill. So the drill starts drilling on it's OD before the point. This is harder on the drill but it avoids a bell mouth shape at the beginning of the hole. You get the support of the drills OD before the tip starts drilling. I almost always spot drill with this style of 90 deg spot drill for say your normal 120-140 degree drill point. I also spot drill a little larger than the drill diameter or a little larger than the tap diameter if its a tap drill. You should never spot for a carbide drills with center drills, this can damage the drill. There is only one purpose for a center drill. To make a center for the lathes tail center. The most ideal drilling cycle would be to slow down the speed and feed when entering (and exiting for thru holes) than once started speed up the speed and feed. A drill can dissipate heat better into the body of the drill when drilling its full diameter. This is why it is always harder on a drill to open up a already drilled hole. Particularly if the previous hole is close to the same diameter. In this case it is necessary to slow down the surface speed (RPM) of the drill. Or it will fail due to overheating the flute tips.

[@taylorlooney1]

the size of this machine always baffles me

[@meatballsguch]

What kind of machine is that that thing looks like a beast?!

[@EdgePrecision]

My horizontal mill is a Mitsubishi MH80E. It was built in 1999.

[@jeepmanxj]

I've noticed a few videos where you use a center for a carbide drill. I've tried this in the past and it always burns the corners of the drill up. Are you using a center that's match ground to your drill lead or vise versa?

[@EdgePrecision]

I never use a center drill to spot for drills. I do use a spot drill for this almost always a 90 degree angle. It is true that this can be harder on the tip corners of the drill. The reason is normally drilling from solid (With no spot drill) the drill can dissipate heat into the body of the drill. When going into a spot drill where the drills corners contact the spot drill first it tends to overheat these corners, because it cant conduct the heat fast enough to the core body of the drill. You will have the same problem with carbide drills, drilling into a previously drilled hole. Especially if the hole is close to the same diameter. The reason I like to drill into the spot drill of a shaper angle is it improves the size of the entry (avoids a bell mouthed hole) of the hole. Also if it is a tapped hole you already have a chamfer for the tap. But it is, as you say harder on the drill. The perfect way to do this would be to drill the very first part of the hole with a slower speed, Just till you reach full contact with the drills point. Than speed up the feed and speed for the remainder of the hole. If the hole is a thru hole it would even be better to also slow down the speed and feed when it breaks thru. That would improve tool life also. You will notice if you can observe a carbide drill breaking thru, it will overheat the slug. You may have noticed the disks left from this are usually discolored from this heat. This also can overheat the drills tip. Another thing if the drill intersects existing holes you can have trouble with this as well. In that case it is better to slow the speed and feed where these intersections are as well. All that's of course in a perfect setup. But my part quantities are usually so small I just slow down the whole drilling cycle. Unless time is a major factor. Usually the time it takes to make it perfect it just isn't worth it to me. But if you do large quantities and time/tooling is important than doing these things would be a good thing.

[@jeepmanxj]

@@EdgePrecision thank you for the detailed answer. We do a lot of form tools that have coolant channels drilled into them. Some of the forms have 10-15 holes and there can be 15-20 parts to the entire form. We were trying to shoot them from one side but we're having issues with drills walking. We had better luck with a spot face or center drill but it would burn the drills up after a few parts. Im going to do some tests tomorrow and see if I get some better results with this. The information you have in your videos has been absolutely astounding and has given me many ideas to make my life easier and my process more successful. The apprentices at work turned me on to your channel a while ago, and you are instrumental to some of these guys. I really appreciate what you do.

[@alexgregg2466]

Are you going to post a video of cutting those parts?

[@franz_k6000]

Great video man What machine are you using?

[@marcseclecticstuff9497]

It looks like a late 90's 4-axis Mitsubishi M-H80e with a Meldas 500 control, and an 80 tool Cat50 magazine.

[@ewildgoose]

Idiot question but… what holds the tools into the magazine pots? Why don’t they jiggle free and fall out? Magnets??

[@EdgePrecision]

There are spring loaded balls that grab on to the retention stud on the tool.

[@damientoomey1194]

Thanks for your videos, I enjoy the quality machining. That’s a Mitsubishi horizontal isn’t it? I’m curious what brains it has? Is it a Meldas 500 series? It seems to handle data quite well for what I’m assuming is a mid to late 90’s machine?

[@EdgePrecision]

It’s a Mitsubishi with a Meldas control. It was built in 1999.

[@damientoomey1194]

@@EdgePrecision we have 3 MPlus mazaks 95-98. I’m guessing they have similar hardware. I don’t think those machines would handle data quite as well as ur machine appears to. we have to be very careful how close the points are in the tool path. The 98 machine I fitted an Ethernet card which is a massive improvement on drip feeding the others by rs232 but still worlds away from our fusion640m machine with windows.

[@marcseclecticstuff9497]

It looks like a M-H80E with a Meldas 500 control. I'm guessing no thru spindle coolant since he's applying cutting oil on the tap. Good machines.

[@EdgePrecision]

@@marcseclecticstuff9497 if you go back a few videos you will see me fixing the chip blaster that supply’s the tru spindle coolant. Even in this video you see the drill using tru spindle coolant. And yes you are correct about the machine type and control.

[@wagglebutt]

I must have missed the easy set code video. Which one was it?

[@EdgePrecision]

I have showed these things in many videos. I haven't done one just on the easy set cycles. I could do one if you think that would be useful.

[@wagglebutt]

@@EdgePrecision I would definitely like to see it, whether you make a new video, or someone can point me to the existing footage. Thanks for all of your videos btw. Great stuff.

[@tedsaylor6016]

Peter, if the customer provides the material, and the latest batch of said material is "acts different" (for whatever reason), how easy is that to explain to the customer? Do they even understand? If parts end up needing to be remade will the customer usually pay for this, or is that up to you?

[@EdgePrecision]

What people may not realize. It is much more difficult to get material now. Compared to just a year or two ago. If I make a mistake and the parts can’t be used. I pay for material and the remaking of the parts.

[@13anomalous16]

I wonder what grade of steel the tombstone faces are made of

[@EdgePrecision]

This tombstone is made out of A36 steel plate welded together.

[@joaodomingosboff603]

Não entendo o porque faceou, deu acabamento e retificou com a fresa e depois retirou mais material com outra fresa maior e e mais áspera. Porque não deu desbaste com a fresa maior e deu acabamento com a fresa menor...?

[@EdgePrecision]

Se eu entendi sua pergunta. Eu acho que você está perguntando por que eu fresei as duas faces depois de montar as peças no suporte da lápide (eu permiti material para isso). Isso foi para que eu pudesse colocá-los na altura exata dos topos das mandíbulas do Kirt Vise quando eles fossem parafusados no suporte. Na verdade, mostrei a medição com o relógio comparador. Isso tirou a necessidade de ser muito preciso com essa altura na operação anterior. É muito mais fácil de fazer depois que eles são aparafusados em seus locais de montagem.

[@joaodomingosboff603]

@@EdgePrecision Certo! Obrigado pela resposta...!

[@aleks138]

Is there a reason for the pallet to rotate a little after the tool change?

[@EdgePrecision]

Let’s say you didn’t have that at every tool beginning. But you stopped the machine and jogged the B axis for some reason. Than you reran the tool for some reason. You would need it to come to the proper B angle for that tool. So I have the post putting code to bring the B axis to 10 degrees plus the B position then to the B position at every tool change and B axis move. Always approaching the B position from the positive direction just in case to remove any backlash. Not totally necessary because this machine has digital scales. But just to be safe. At the large diameters you work with on this size horizontal mill. A very small difference in angle can make a lot of difference in position. Out 12-16” or more from center of rotation.

[@aleks138]

That's smart

[@douro20]

Got enough custom shell mills?

[@TravisHammeng]

Not worried about the vice only being held by the 4 call screws in sheer?

[@EdgePrecision]

Are you referring to the 5/8 socket caps screws that hold the Kirt vise to the tombstone? If so I have tightened that vise held that way as hard as I can pull the handle. In all these years it has never moved.

[@TravisHammeng]

@@EdgePrecision yeah that's what I was talking about. I guess the fixed jaw on the DX vises are held by 4 smaller cap screws, so same same really

[@bps3374]

Nice Tool Magazin 🙄

[@manindersingh257]

You usually use hss drill, why not carbide.

[@EdgePrecision]

I do usually use carbide thru coolant drills. In this case in this diameter (.656") I did not have a drill long enough. So I resorted to a taper length Hss drill. Carbide would have been faster but this was just some fixture parts and four holes.

[@Iceberg86300]

When did you find that the material was moving on you? Somewhere in process or on final inspection?

[@EdgePrecision]

On the previous set of parts.

[@Iceberg86300]

@@EdgePrecision get away w/o scrapping any? I always wonder about mat'l cost b/c of the largish parts you run. _FAR_ larger than anything I've dealt with since my first job at Haas which really skewed me in cost b/c 4x vs 400x or even 4000x affects raw mat'l purchases so heavily. So thanks again for sharing what you do & taking the time to interact with us as well!

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

At 0.59, on the left, what is the name of the tool bolted to the table that fixes the lateral offset of the workpiece???? It looks like a beefy indicator arm. I need one of these so badly!! (I am not talking about the Renishaw probe.)

[@TravisHammeng]

It's a work stop. My assumption would be that he made it him self

[@EdgePrecision]

If you are referring to the mill stop. That is my own design.

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

@@EdgePrecision Thanks!!

[@MrSolarstu]

Fairly sure Peter did a video about making them.

[@EdgePrecision]

I started to make a run 40 of them to sell. But I got side tracked and never finished the setup. I do have the material to make them. I need to get back on that project.

[@carlosvasquez1646]

Hey Peter I just started turning I have always been a mill guy. My company wants me to run the multi task mill turn. We run a lot of 17-5, 15-5, nitronic 60, and in ones 718. What’s a good insert to start with we rough face and turn od with cnmg 432. Need help thanks.

[@EdgePrecision]

That’s the Styl of insert I use for most roughing. It is the grade and chip breaker type that makes the most difference. There is so many choices, you unfortunately will have to experiment with what your machine and tooling works best with.

[@carlosvasquez1646]

Thanks for the reply I am going to try seco, iscar, and walter.

[@EdgePrecision]

I have been using some Sumitomo inserts with good success. The thing I like about them is they are much less expensive than the brands you mentioned.

[@carlosvasquez1646]

I will give sumitomo a look thanks for the advice Peter.

[@WilliamTMusil]

Hiya Peter

[@Adam0855]

How many place On Tools you have?

[@EdgePrecision]

The magazine can hold 80 tools.

[@Uzik]

You have new photo operator ?)

[@EdgePrecision]

I don’t know what you are asking? What is a photo operator?

[@Uzik]

@@EdgePrecision Cameraman and video editor)

[@juanpierreetchart58]

hello Edge Precision I watch your videos and learn a lot with them, would you have a contact email? I would like to ask some questions with you

[@EdgePrecision]

You can send me e-mails at [e-mail]