Old Sled Rebuild - Part 4: 97 Polaris XLT 600 Triple - Don't make the same mistakes I made

Learn from the mistakes I made installing my first snowmobile crankshaft in our 1997 Polaris XLT. In this video we take you through several mistakes and grey areas we had to overcome in learning to put this snowmobile back together.

[@chrisbishop8979]

Just found your series on the XLT. I’m very interested in watching you get it assembled again and running. Thanks for the videos.

[@dennisdoesitall]

Welcome aboard!

[@haydenrichardp3712]

Do not put sealant on both crankcase halves. Just one and use very little. You will see it ooze out when put together. As far as the seals only put grease in the recessed area of the seal that the crank turns on. I also put crankcase sealant on the outside diameter of the seals where they sit in the groves of the cases. As far as lubrication , lightly coat the bearings and the oil pump drive gear on the crank and the gear on the pump itself. Also grease the labyrinth seals on the crank. They look like rings. That is what seals the cylinders from one another.

[@blk77sunshn]

When applying the sealant your bead should be no more than @ .125 wide . A little goes a long way, also making sure to follow the proper torque sequence for the bolts. Make sure you saturate the big bearing end on the rods. (Don't forget the bushed end too.) It goes without saying to lubricate, lubricate , lubricate, those bearings on the rest of the crank. It's gonna smoke pretty bad when you start it, what I would do is I disconnect the expansion pipes and put some old flexible exhaust pipe on what's left to divert exhaust flow, because you don't want all that oil getting pushed into your muffler/ expansion pipes etc. Otherwise your machine will be smoking for a long time until ALL that oil gets burned out. Make sure you get some extra plugs too. Get a temperature gun and monitor each jug as it's running in, to make sure it's firing on all 3 cylinders and that you don't have one of them overheating, or too cold ( indicative of mixture issues ) listen for odd sounds. Such as grinding or growling, ( crank bearings ), squeaking/ chirping (head gasket) , etc. That's all I got for now. I hope that you find something useful. If not, sorry.

[@mikepierunek]

Motoseal very thin coat on both sides, grease on inside of seals is fine, but use assembly lube for the inside of the seal and some on your crank, your crank seal should also get some black rtv on outer diameter to help seal to the case, wipe any excess off, keep it clean. Also I like to lightly brush my base gaskets on both sides with motoseal, be sure to use emery cloth to lightly scuff up the surfaces a tad bit too. Also never forget to retorque your base nuts and head studs after your first couple heat cycles. Good luck, msg me if you want the correct manual for your machine instead of that Clymer manual

[@dennisdoesitall]

Great advice thank you! I actually ditched the Clymer manual for the OEM Polaris manual halfway through the project. The OEM manual had a better level of detail.

[@DerredmaxTRIAX]

I use the black Yamabond 6b and just dab a thin layer to each surface with my finger. After you reassemble everything do a leak down test. The common issue with the 600 mono block is a crank seal letting air in leaning out your air fuel ratio burning down a piston usually the center piston. Its best to do a vacuum leak down test. Its air in that you don't want except through the air box.

[@dennisdoesitall]

Thank you for passing along some knowledge. Can you recommend a leak down tester? Did you make one, or do you use one off the shelf?

[@DerredmaxTRIAX]

@@dennisdoesitall Streeters Garage You should check out my friend Tom's channel. He is best 90s Polaris guy I have ever meet. And he will answer any questions you may have. super good guy. Good luck my friend!!

[@larrywarner9314]

Thin skim coat is all you need on case

[@jimb4090]

Do not saturate the bearings, just a couple of drops in each. Too much lubrication in a ball bearing (needle bearings, too) causes the elements to build up a hydrodynamic wedge in front of the rolling element and then they skid, not roll. Skidding bearings suck. Just the barest amount of lube is required. Three bond every time. What Larry said....just a fine film is all you need.

[@darrylsmart1783]

Dennis !! Great information on your sled ! I have seen the guy's put just a little 1184 on the top of case only too. Yes use a far bit of 2 stroke oil over the parts. I bought a 1996 formula 600 triple last year ! went start it in the late summer and it went clunk ! took the fly wheel off ! it works. So now have taken it down to the motor mounts. when i turn the cam goes around then stop's then turn it the other way the same thing happens it stops ! So not sure what it is so far but might be the barrel rings ! but will keep you updated if you want ! or you might know what it is !! look forward to hear from you !!

[@dennisdoesitall]

Hi Darryl! Thank you for your comments. It sounds like you may indeed have a broken ring or compromised piston preventing your engine from rotating. If it were me, I would pull off the head and get a good look at the cylinders. Good luck!

[@darrylsmart1783]

@@dennisdoesitall Ya it's all down to the base of the engine. piston's, wall's look good rod are to nice and tight.

[@darrylsmart1783]

Hello Dennis!! well found the problem it was the shaft on the clutch side. glad i pulled the motor. Thanks !!

[@darrylsmart1783]

Well i should say it was the rod for piston it was bent !!

[@mchaney9315]

Its called a bearing separator

[@larrywarner9314]

Use 3 bond 1184 , or moto seal , or yamabond

[@rcguy1231]

What did you end up torquing the crank case to so you didn’t snap that gear?

[@bobnicholls2680]

515, a light smear on either half of the case works perfectly. You broke the oil pump drive, check the case (both half's for straight) then check your crank with v-blocks and a dial gauge for true. You obviously fucked up assembling the first time. A slightly higher torque did not break the drive. It was incorrect crank and case assembly. Always, and never deviate from this, always assemble the case, crank, and oil drive by hand, check several times during the processing that both crank and drive spin freely, if you can't quite get the 2 halves together it's likely the dowel pins, very gently tap the case together with a soft dead blow mallet while making sure everything spins freely with every tap, if it won't mesh together, split the halves, you might have an outter race locating pin not in the notch it's supposed to be. A light film of grease between the 2 lips of the seal is all that's needed. It's a friggin snowmobile, not a dirt bike, dust doesn't enter the equation.... so light film in the seal, a light coat of 2 stroke oil on the crank where the seal slips on and install. Next, assembly lube is not required, be liberal with 2 stroke oil, either dino or synthetic, your call as either is fine. Torque the case to 1 ft. lb. Over the highest number for said bolt size, reason is there has already been some stretch in the used bolt so a touch higher gets it closer to the orig spec. Once done be liberal with putting oil in the holes that feed the bearings, I have a small syringe I use for this but just pouring out of a cap full will work as well. Dump some oil in the slots of the rod so the needle bearings are well lubed. By being liberal with oil during assemble, this allows ease of priming oil lines on first start up.

[@dillondixon1509]

You dont grease the inside of the crank seals either. Just grease the lip seal on the i.d where the crank spins.