5020 M&W Turbo 3

This video is about 5020 M&W Turbo 3

[@Newfive]

Little tip when tapping and drilling into critical area where you want to prevent chips... put grease on drill bit and drill slow and on tap when tapping... will catch all of the chips. If grease loads up then wipe it clean and regrease and continue.

[@dewainwoodard4840]

Great video Wes thanks for sharing the tractor is looking great

[@TheBschroeder1]

just remember, its his tractor, his way. Another job well done

[@splitchest9566]

Hose clamp with a hex head slot is so you can take the bit out of a double ended multi-bit screw driver and then use that to tighten them. Some multi-bit screw drivers have two different size bits and will work for large and small hose clamps.

[@tdgreenbay]

Looks good another "It can be done" video..... that turbo whine sounded great

[@jdboy9]

That shop is organized chaos lol. With my ocd I think my head would explode working in there. Loving these videos lately!

[@stevelutzke9600]

What a tease, all that's left is to fire it up and he's going to make us wait another Day! Well hopefully it will be worth the wait. It's looking good Wes we are as excited as you are to see it come to life! ( as a finished project )

[@josephguisti7496]

Watch the whole video lol

[@stevelutzke9600]

It would have been nice to see it when it was finished in this video is all I was saying. But hey thanks for your positive attitude you must be a really nice guy.

[@markrezac3984]

you can also add grease to your tap to catch your filings also.

[@ginggur17]

Sounds lovely, nice one.

[@jeffrhodes97]

Sounds awesome Wes

[@jaywarren2546]

nice job wes Thanks for sharing

[@stevenharris4156]

heyyy another great video

[@mikegoodman447]

WES! The turbo drain must be at least 5/8"ID or Bigger! Turbo will flood with oil without it. The turbo whips the oil into a foam which takes a large drain line. The center housing needs to drain by Gravity or it fills with oil. Once the oil level goes past the level of the turbine shaft the "seals" in the turbo become flooded with oil. Then the turbo starts blowing oil out the shaft ends. Suggest metal tubing for drain since the ID is larger. The restriction at the end of the drain is a big No-No. Please use a metal drain with a 3/4 ID. Use a high grade hose on the ends if need be. Not criticizing. I built turbos for years. The little turbo you have is a RAYJAY. Those turbos are very efficient, even better than some modern turbos. They don't have to be big. They do need a big drain though.

[@hturbo1007]

My thoughts exactly. I installed a Keystone turbo and was told the same instructions.

[@eeezeejs]

To add to this, you want the center section of the turbo as close to level as possible as well. (inlet perfectly straight up, and drain perfectly straight down.) You can get a way with a little angle but what he's got going on right now looks excessive.

[@jaimecunningham1057]

Mike Goodman would this be true on such a small turbo though?

[@mikegoodman447]

The angle of the center section is important as you say. It looks like the angle is going to be O.K. The RayJay turbo center section is spring loaded. If you remove the clamp holding it the section will pop out. Once it's popped out it is a real bugger to reinstall. The housing has to be compressed, sometimes in a press to get the clamp back on. Rust and scale falls off inside and make it very difficult, sometimes to the point the turbo has to be disassembled and cleaned out before it can be put back together. Recommend leaving it alone.

[@mikegoodman447]

The factory drain was setup with 3/4" hose. So that is the size . You want the biggest hose you can fit. There is one other thing that affects oil drain and that is crankcase pressure. With the turbo now on an older engine making more HP the pressure in the crankcase is going to be higher as well. This acts as a resistance to the oil draining back. Keep in mind the bigger drain needs to be there under high speed , high load. The turbo is screaming then and the amount of oil is much greater and the oil is being whipped into a foam almost. The turbine shaft in this case is "sealed" with cast iron rings like a piston ring. Once the oil reaches the level of the shaft these rings can't hold it back.

[@chadking2222]

Great job! Love the sound of the turbo. Can't wait to hear more.

[@Wood.Water.Camping]

looking good Wes

[@fiat38]

Need to get a 1/2" pipe tap (even if it needs to be ordered) for the hole in the side of the block for the return. I would also suggest a 45 degree elbow rather than a 90, best to avoid sharp bends whenever its possible on the return. For a return line that long I'd also suggest to use 3/4" metal tubing for most of it. I've used what I had on hand for a quick test, then figure out what I need to get to finish it.

[@stanleyjones4180]

great video all thanks

[@beauhudson7758]

Good job Wes awsome !

[@mikegoodman447]

Next time you drill or tap a hole in the block have someone put air pressure on the crankcase. The internal pressure will tend to blow the shavings out. Grease on the tap works as well.

[@sstroh08]

Looks awesome! Hey plumbers trick for ya. When putting Teflon on a threaded fitting, hold the roll the opposite direction you were on the video, stick your finger in the hole of the roll, and then let it flow off like the way a toilet paper roll would if you just rolled it. Makes it way faster and easier haha. Can't wait to see this monster in the field! Think you could use you could talk one of your local dealers into dynoing it? I'm curious how much more power she makes now.

[@Andriod846]

New Heavy Duty head studs, Compound turbos and a high performance injectionpump thats what i would do to that 5020Deisel.

[@tractorboy31]

Sounds nice wes

[@leeduke3235]

Class mate

[@kevinwillis9126]

Great instool Wes. What will be the first test the infamous hill?. Thanks for sharing...

[@dejanira2]

Another good solution to a problem

[@farmrrick]

I was told that the reason you wouldn't want a bigger turbo on 5020s was that the stroke was too long and it would cause problems . It added about 60 70 hp to ours .

[@4gauge10]

I bet that was kinda of a strange feeling drilling a hole in your own engine block Wes.In spite of it being very statigically placed.

[@josephorenchuk3286]

Your shop vac sounds like mine it could blow up at any minute

[@handh41]

Remember when referring to hydraulic and pipe fittings we can't call them male or female any longer. Keep up the good work thanks for the videos. See you at farm day.

[@wyattdahl8698]

Well you're working on that you should put a block heater on

[@davedunn2124]

Nice... I’ve been searching for a M&W turbo kit for my 756 ih. Can’t find one. Sure wish I could.

[@jmew1922]

has it got a pressure side on the fuel pump to add fuel

[@KPearce57]

The death of a turbo 1/4" return line, it needs to go into the oilpan above the full line.

[@aaronjarvenpa1743]

That is cool

[@hturbo1007]

Hey Wes, since there isn't a waste gate,or a boost gauge, do you have any idea of of the boost it could be putting out. Too much can be catastrophic. "Blown head gasket or melt down of pistons ".

[@autocat9371]

very interesting (picture that little guy on laugh-in saying that)

[@20kayear97]

His wis great vids with brass connection you could braze it.

[@Farmall450]

Do you overfill the oil a little with the turbo? Or get a deeper M&W pan?

[@jaimecunningham1057]

Awesome vid like always but I hope the kitty didn't get thirsty around that antifreeze....unless you don't like barn cats 🤙

[@kingofhearts3703]

Love your videos wes, can i just point out to you that you wrapped the teflon tape on in the wrong direction? Righty tighty and all that 😎 👍 i also would keep that hose as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. Just my two cents, love your vids!

[@dejavu6475]

A larger turbo takes longer to spool up, it increases the turbo lag.

[@aaronjarvenpa1743]

Did you have to do anything with the injector pump to make sure that there was enough fuel pressure ?

[@lindadavis1325]

We had 2 5020 turbo and i you lug it for to long you can blow a head gasket other the that they were great

[@onlygazza]

Cant you just pipe the oil into the rocker cover?

[@markgamble8377]

Gee I will have to look up hp of that jd. Interesting

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

On hose clamps use your 1/4" socket it works a ton better than those screw me drivers :-)

[@frankeem3820]

If you tuck that hose in there like you said you are. Isn't that going to be too close to the hot exhaust?

[@Loganlanfear21]

FRANsylvania Maple it runs alone the intake manifold. It’s a little close to the exhaust but who knows, maybe it will be okay

[@daves7503]

Cant wait to see if you notice a difference in power. Maybe try pulling your harrow or something.... to really give her a work out.

[@swamprat69er]

Can you not use a 1/4" or 5/16" socket to tighten the hose clamps? the little ones should be 1/4 and the big ones 5/16

[@prkrngr27]

I use a nut driver instead of a standard screw driver when I'm working with hose clamps.

[@philpeek5412]

The chances of finding one of those small spanners in that shop,,, mission impossible. Vice grips?

[@troyelam7141]

Bigger the better on the oil return line. Too small of a return line will cause blown seals.

[@josephboley]

it's alive !!!!

[@andrewgodfrey2610]

Wed can you finish the story on the day you bought the 5020

[@andban92]

Holy fork!This tractor sounds like a real beast!How much does it have now?Around 170hp?

[@enednas801]

He needs to adjust up the pump fuel injection to get any use of the boost. or not he only get very low hp added.

[@bseeds9318]

why cant you put the return in the valve cover

[@bduff007]

Imagine if that bad boy was intercooled

[@trenzmeister]

instead of making a hole in the motor ...can you return through dipstick tube?

[@ih1206]

Truman Renz that's the way the M&W kit is set up on my 806, actually it's on the fill tube, which is how the 1206, 1256, and 1456 came from the factory. I'd rather do that than drill a hole in the block/timing cover.

[@trenzmeister]

thank-you

[@dannycrooks1753]

I cut a finger off i wish the surgeon had kept it off but no they had to sew it on again i even asked for it to be kept off but no it causes me grief every day i have no feeling in it and a small bit of movement and it only gets in the way 😁😁😁 It wasn't sore cutting it off i never felt a thing I've often thought about running it through the saw again

[@koryleague8833]

Danny Crooks I've got two fingers the same way. Anything under fourty degrees and they are ice cold.

[@bennyrussell5551]

Danny Crooks same thing happened to me, but the company doctor refused to leave it off.

[@vettepicking]

When I braze brass to brass, copper to brass, or copper to copper I use harris Stay-Silv and with flux. no flux needed on copper to copper. also known as silver PhosCopper Brazing Alloy

[@nicklad9463]

Any fodder for sale ? asking from ireland most farmers have none

[@PyleZAP97]

Just for giggles: If you wanted to strap a large turbo on there, how would you do it so it didn't blow out the head gasket?

[@PyleZAP97]

Also...instead of drilling block, could you have tapped the oil return straight to the oil pan?

[@fowletm1992]

Run less boost Or replace the head bolts with better ones But then you run into the rest of the engine maybe not handling it Can end up chasing your tail replacing bits that break and upgradeing them

[@Nathan-pw7do]

You'd have to run lower compression pistons

[@PyleZAP97]

Nathan 75 ...Which is exactly the opposite of what a turbo/super charger does.

[@Nathan-pw7do]

Brian Sparks yes if you're going to force more air into a cylinder you have to lower the mechanical compression ratio to keep cylinder pressures under control. Look it up

[@jackpalatinus3042]

Were is the 4010

[@orkidknog4147]

that return line need to be bigger than what you put in, must be at least 5/8" free flow return or you will blow the seals out the turbo in a very short time as the oil will not be able to return back to sump quick, you should know this and not put a tiny fitting in the engine like you did

[@super6954]

Hi she sounds sweet that was worth waiting for, you should soon know if that returns, not big enough . When I turbo'd my perk V8 in my pull tractor I didn't get the return big enough for a free flow . it started back pressuring and pushing oil out of the turbo piston ring style oil seals and up the exhaust, before I even got it on the track, I made a larger return and it quit doing it. I guess the only thing you don't know is if the seals in the turbo are buggered from the last owner, or if it could be the return size if you did have a problem. I'd say now you knocked the baffle out of that muffler. you might as well put a nice chrome pipe on with a real nice bend on the top like a semi truck exhaust, I don't think it would be much louder now, and it would sound even more sweet, not like that bloody noisy pissed of wasp sounding skid steer L.O.L. Looking forward to the first working video. Take care guys.

[@farmingforfunandprofit940]

People Probably don't realize that a TurboCharger only works when the engine is under load... It has to spool up.... Have lots of experience with boosted engines......

[@bigunone]

Why not return into the valve cover?

[@chevyon37s]

Charlie Why the hell would you even consider that? You'd have too much oil in the valve train slowing it down, and it would be dirty oil at that after coming out of the turbo. It needs to be returned to the sump/ oil pan so it can be filtered before being circulated through the engine again.

[@bigunone]

I asked because I didn't know I have never had a vehicle with a turbo. When I was a kid those were driven by guys known as Chad who had girlfriends named Buffy!

[@matthewgraham7419]

After all of the fear of size of the drain line… have you had any problems or sized up?

[@robertdavis6708]

You should have hard lined that turbo return Wesley. That Maytag washing machine hose will have you crying during tough working conditions. It only takes a little longer to do it correctly But....it ain't mine so I'll stfu..

[@kevinguthrie466]

Do you have a twin brother?

[@johnnyholland8765]

Wes.... Liked the install but please put some decent ribbed tires on the front of that tractor. It needs some really bad.

[@SteveHolsten]

Doggone, I wish the video had been longer on putting it all back together & trying out the turbo.

[@SteveHolsten]

Yeah, I saw that smoky part. I meant getting it out & doing a little pulling with it. Thanks.

[@paulgagnon7153]

steel fitting stronger!

[@jjfarms8141]

Why not drill and tap into the oil pan since it’s just a return line. Just asking.

[@perryc8943]

J&J Farms I was thinking why not into the valve cover

[@saleen367]

Not only that, but his oil return hose won't last from the extreme heat. I would use braided stainless AN hose to be safe around the heat of that turbo.

[@tom7601]

PERRY C I'd go for the intake manifold... :-) Hey, it'd keep tho mosquitos away!

[@perryc8943]

tom7601 haha I ment valve cover

[@mikegoodman447]

AN hose would have to be a size 10 to get the right ID

[@zachstone1939]

are you ever going to work on bulldozer?

[@bennyrussell5551]

Zach Stone he said that is not a priority

[@NebukedNezzer]

Be nice to Teresa.

[@advandervelden1588]

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[@smileyclownyloks9949]

Ad van der Velden charlie how can I be a farm manager

[@user-uu2uf7df6s]

Farmer Boy اود الترجمه بل لغه العربيه

[@user-uu2uf7df6s]

اود ان اكون زبون لكم في العراق

[@user-uu2uf7df6s]

واتمنا لو يتم الترجمه بلغه العربيه

[@logankendrick2692]

علي ابن العماره i agree with you completely

[@Blasterxp]

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