OO/HO Derailing on Switch Tracks? Here's what you can do.

[@lindaoffenbach]

Very helpful, thanks. Paying attention to turnouts it does help watching them real life. You'd see that the switching rail touching the outer stationary one is very sharp, and that the stationary rail at contact point has a notch to catch the turning one (In Germany), making a totally smooth transition. We're setting up a 3-rail layout (Europan continent). High precision is always key, and we'll be giving this a special attention. Thanks :)

[@jeffreymcneal1920]

Short and sweet, good info. Once, when laying some track I dented it slightly, and could not figure out for the life of me why one particular coach insisted on derailing on it, no matter what else I did. Got down to scale level and finally saw the warpage. Changed it out, no more trouble. Will be buying some files at Harbor Freight this weekend.

[@eugenewebber535]

IF I may... a Dremel, using whatever bit you like, (I use the large Sanding drum) I suggest, as opposed to "Ripping these FROGS out" Use the Dremel to both slightly reduce the height, but, and even more importantly, deepen the groove. Beautiful point to file the Buttheads in switchouts, I use my Dremel for that as well though. My Bachmann 4-8-4 would NOT make a whole circuit without one of the switchouts derailing her. Also, I've found that conductive lube on the rivets helps in both commutation, and ease of operation! BTW... THANKS!!

[@melkitson]

A very sensible, well narrated video. I have a problem with a brand new Kato n gauge loco with only one set of points. I will be trying your suggestions.

[@crsrdash-840b5]

I changed most of my turnouts from #4 to #6 and larger frog angles. The trick is that Atlas #6 can be cut down to the 9-inch length of their snap track and #4 turnouts. That makes it easier to replace turnouts while having that better diverging route.

[@SantaFeBob]

Excellent demonstration video. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

[@dalipparmar6134]

Brilliant video to solve my exact problems, bing a novice I will have a go at one of my points to start with tomorrow. thank you.

[@Stussmeister]

Very interesting and informative. I've noticed on my own HO scale (Kato Unitrack) layout that one of my locomotives, a Bachmann PRR K4, seems to get its driving wheels snagged on any sort of minute height difference between rails as well as the frog on one particular left-hand turnout. This in turn causes the leading trucks to come off the track. I'm thinking my two options are to either file down the rails so that they're even between joints or add more weight to the leading trucks of my K4.

[@richardclowes6123]

I bought some kiddies train sets that actually have the correct wheel spacing for OO gauge but they were rather light and did derail. They were so cheap compared to traditional hornby wagons etc so I had to find a solution. Like you I used the wheel balancing weights but often I put them underneath and painted them black so you don't see them. That way you can weight stock that you cant get into like carriages or box vans etc. For beginners cheap packs like kiddies trains can help build a collection to get them going without the cost.

[@josephbrandtner7713]

Real railroads "undercut" the stock rails, the ones on the outside, so the switch points fit into that cut. Grind a slight notch into the stock rails where the points of the switch engage them.

[@spitfire5257]

Actually very helpful I found 3 extended areas in my track causing derailment and counting

[@dalipparmar6134]

thanks for video. this is what I have been looking for my points or derailment problem. Being a complete novice it is very hard to know the issues and how to solve the problems. I will have look at filing one point and if it helps move on to the next one. Thanks again

[@skerbs7755]

Thanks for sharing the weight idea in addition. Good idea to try on my old freight cars!

[@tczephyr3665]

NMRA also has guidelines on what each type of car should weigh. You can Google it. I have a scale and every car is brought up to their guidelines before it gets on the layout. MicroMark sells a nice scale. The scale and weights are a small price to pay for cars that stay on the track

[@cliffordaldrich4189]

Great video, thank you. I'm having some trouble with my switches and with closer inspection. I was thinking filing would help as you described. I can definitely relate to the frustration and aggravation of trying to run. My fairly expensive Broadway Limited 2-8-8-2 and having those to front wheels derailing. Now if I could just get my DCC decoders to program right? The world would be a better place. thank you again and great video.

[@5433g5]

This was so helpful

[@Tauraco00]

Interesting, thanks for sharing👍

[@johnfloyd838]

Thanks for the tip, it worked great .👍

[@HumancityJunction]

Quality control seems to be where everyone is cutting corners.

[@ApacheHalloween]

My GS-4 derails going the opposite direction coming out of the turn, sometimes it’s the guiding wheels, other times it’s the tender’s trucks. I’ve been trying to solve this problem for months, and I really don’t wanna tear up the track but I think that’s a possibility, got any tips?

[@PendulumStation]

hmm, I suppose it depends on where it's derailing. The best thing to do is to get down at eye level, then take a look at the guard rail, heel, frog, spread, etc (type in Turnout Diagram in Google Images so you can see the anatomy of a turnout). Once you've figured out were the issue is, then you can take an NMRA gauge and start honing into on the trouble spot. I hate to say it, but EZ track (for me personally) was just ruining the experience. I was constantly having issues. I eventually threw in the towel and started building a new layout using AnyRail software. Eventually I settled on Peco track (especially their turnouts) and I haven't had a single derailing issue so far. The difference really is night and day. To be honest, I've fallen in love with the hobby all over again.

[@crsrdash-840b5]

I have the Bachmann GS4 Northern Daylight too. They don't like anything smaller than a #4 frog angle turnout.

[@jeffreymcneal1920]

Some of these Bachmann steamers are a little light, I'm thinking, particularly that GS4. Myself, I'd try to find a way to throw some weight at the boiler and the tender. If the boiler doesn't allow it, I'd try the tire weight trick, painted black, to the under carriage.

[@ApacheHalloween]

@@jeffreymcneal1920 yes I sent it back to Bachman, they did who knows what, and I added some wheel weights, it’s doing better than before

[@MicksModels]

Problem solved. Thank you sir 🔥🔥🔥

[@crsrdash-840b5]

Bachmann E-Z track has the sharper frog angle of #3.5 that was designed for very short wheelbase engines and rolling stock. That is why most people use #4 or larger turnouts. I replaced all my turnouts from #4 to #6, and #8. I use #4 on my branch line and its yard. For any steam engine with a lead truck, don't use anything with sharp frogs like the Bachmann or Atlas Snap Track.

[@Steelerfan820]

Great video wish I had seen it before I built entire layout outta ez track. I had to do a lot of filing

[@5433g5]

Instantly made a difference

[@pedroskipr]

Thank you! Very helpful

[@knapfordnation]

Where did you find the British locomotive in your video?

[@PendulumStation]

I think I found this particular one at a train show in California. They're hard to find!

[@tonyromano6220]

Weight 1oz plus 1/2oz per inch.

[@Griphook3D]

Oh yeah, Ez track is the worse, I bought the ez track dcc switch ones and tore them out ! And cost 40.00 each. Peco track turnouts are so much better, snap in place and sturdy…

[@BristolSpotterHD]

Your using a really old Hornby point from the 80/90s.using that and new locos cause problems There new versions are more reliable. Or use peco

[@tonyromano6220]

5:05 do the back side

[@philipsmeeton]

Use KATO switches= no problem.

[@philipbenson5981]

Hornby & peco track .not much better. The old stuff .in 60s using series 3 and 4;track .. triang was then .then became triang hornby . Then.. Now just hornby But the rail was higher . Had more hieght off the sleepers and fish plates . The trains had a better flange on wheels, on them so it held on the track. Better . Rolling stock was made heavier. Plastic wheels were less bendy and bogies on steam trains were of alloy. Which was more weighted . I never had these problems then when I built a layout .in my child hood The track .cud be put together more easy . And away it went .often fast. Round track over points cross overs. Great..they were lovely. ---------------------------------------------- Recently .in retirement. Started to build one today . Taking 10years so far. The new track is flimsy . Hardley any height of clearance off the sleepers and fish plates. The fish plates often miss when joining them .& Bend easy . Leaving a slight raise .catching the wheels & derailing on the slightly bent fish plates. As the rail clearances are only a miner thow . Height. .off the track fish plates &:sleepers . The track today. Also as no strength .to hold it's own level as they did then. They bend a bit on uneven joined boards . We're the old stuff held the shape .the new stuff bends. Resulting in a sleeper .or fish plates joint bending up out of slight shape . And then wheels catch it . Jump a bit or derail.. On cross overs & points . Yes,, often as in the video. The. Bogie wheels catch the. Point rail . & As the point mechanism. Losens with use . It gets worse. . Also the plastic bit on points . And cross overs , often raise the wheels off the track.. All this . & Contunuis Derailments. . Cause of today's . Methods of making these things . &; the derailing problems. Caused by how it's now made. I have. Become .very.. disheartened . Disappointed . & Lost. Of interst. in it..