Opening a work light from a commercial fishing boat (with schematic)

This was one of the hardest things I've tried to open. They must put the glass in with a machine or have specialist silicone injection equipment. I had to Dremel the front of the case off to remove the glass. That means it is effectively unserviceable.
It looks like an expensive and well made light, as the waterproof seals had actually kept the stormy waters of the Irish Sea at bay. The unit had suffered an electronic failure that caused half of the LEDs to be out, and the others were showing signs of age.
These units were replaced with standard LED floodlights which the fishermen prefer anyway, as this unit has a very narrow beam.
It's notable that although the casing was well designed for heat dissipation, there was no thermal compound between the PCB and housing.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators

[@kevinleesmith]

I started my electrical and electronic journey in around 1974 by taking things apart to see what they were made of and to try to figure out how they worked. Thanks for reminding me how interesting that is.

[@hullinstruments]

I really miss your troubleshooting and fixing videos. Love them! Hope you and all those Irish fishermen are doing well.

[@clownhands]

I would like to see more pirate electronics on this channel.

[@brianmurphy8790]

'Pirate' - like how to make car key-fob repeaters? I've considered making my own channel of that stuff, but this is YT so it probably wouldn't last long.

[@fromthetaperoom6325]

The high seas not be so friendly to electronics, yarrrr. Pirates, arrrrr

[@colfaxschuyler3675]

@@fromthetaperoom6325 Pie rat humor bee an Arrrt form. The pun-ish meant to fit the crime. Aye, just as they say, Virtue Is Its Own Reward - we'd rather have treasure. September 19th be nigh, only a few short days until we revel.

[@Super1337357]

As someone who goes off road all the time the best thing I've found is to take the light bar apart right when you get it and just smear silicone on every mating surface you can.

[@solrosenburg9595]

Window weld is the best thing I have found for sealing them.

[@darkknight145]

Silicon as in the setting type or Silicon grease?

[@95rav]

@@darkknight145 or the type used for boobs...

[@mihamaker]

@@darkknight145 silicon grease is completely another type of paste, just for greasing/lubricating where you don't want petroleum product. Silicone sealant neutral or acetate like bathroom sealant. Or something much stronger like polyurethane or polimer sealant.

[@obliviousostrich1002]

@@mihamaker Could the acid released into the sealed enclosure result in corrosion? @ acetate silicone. Nail polish is a popular choice, I think clive used it on some of his outdoor lights with good results.

[@HakoFrost]

Finally. I was waiting for you to get an led light bar. Offroad light bars are one of the largest offenders for over rated stats. Every single one I've ever purchased has drawn less power then stated. Having purchased "name brand" bars, and eBay specials.

[@johnnodge4327]

Technically that's a good thing, as life of the LED emitters will be longer.

[@quandiy5164]

Yes, they often quote the total rated power of the leds but not the consumed power. Heatsinking is always an issue when the vehicle is stationary (they still get pretty warm even when underdriven) that's probably why they never run the leds at max rated power. Still good though as underdriving leds make them more efficient in lumens per watt input.

[@HakoFrost]

@@quandiy5164 I get that. But when you pay more for a 180w bar, over a 100w bar. And the 180w draws 90w... Gets kinda frustrating

[@quandiy5164]

@@HakoFrost yup, it is kind of frustrating but think about it, the 100w bar you passed up most probably have been 50w actual 😁 I believe even the brand name ones are made the same way (not sure, never owned or tested one - too broke to pay for a set) but you just pay for better after sales support and warranty.

[@MostlyInteresting]

You have to see if they are talking about actual consumed power or relative to incandescent power. Also they lie....

[@offdagrid877]

Got your self a new video light then Clive! A bit screw and glue happy that one, no wonder it survived the Irish Sea most things don’t for long.

[@Nono-hk3is]

Thank you, Clive and Jiffy. o7, LED light.

[@johnpossum556]

All Hail Clive as our Lighting Overlord!

[@johnnodge4327]

Thanks for sharing. That's a different design to the LED bars I've pulled apart to reverse engineer. All the bars I've stripped have all the LED emitters in groups of 6 series strings. Each series string comes on it's own PCB (a module if you like), complete with separate boost drivers for the 6 LEDs on that module. Using this module design, means the LED bars can be made into different lengths, in multiples of 6, with 6, 12, 18, 24, 36, 42 and so on. The only difference between them being the length of the aluminium extrusion, the length of the glass, and the number and design (spot or flood) reflectors used. Additional this LED bar uses sealing compound to seal the glass, end caps and cable entry point. All the bars I've pulled apart have used greased O rings to seal the polycarbonate lens and the extrusion, with additional O rings sealing the end caps, the cable entry being the only area sealed by compound.

[@U014B]

For as much of a pain in the rear-hinder it was to get past the glass, it _better_ have been clean and dry inside.

[@stridermt2k]

Hehe someone thought they were gonna keep Big Clive out. As if.

[@TopEndSpoonie]

Where there is a will, there is a way ... or a bigger hammer/xray machine.

[@undernetjack]

Metal cutting band saw?

[@BenQuigley]

Plasma cutter

[@richardgraham785]

60 seconds in, excited to see the guts. These are very common Stateside, and I’m curious to see the innards! Edit: potting! Heck!

[@RichardT2112]

Nice catch Clive! 😜

[@SwichMad]

To clear such subborned glass use a thin steel wire to cut the seal, kind of like they do when removing windshields

[@blockbertus]

But there would not be a good way to pull it on both sides in this scenario.

[@goodun2974]

And if that doesn't work, garrote the product's designer with the thin steel wire!

[@Krzys_D]

I had to repair one of these and on both edges it had a solid copper wire for the positive and negative that was maybe a 10 gauge, hardest thing I've had to unsolder the aluminum housing was acting like a heatsink and I didn't have a heat gun, it ended up being a broken trace cause the thing heats up so much and expands and contracts

[@quandiy5164]

I had a single row version that I had taken apart a few times due to moisture ingress. The trick is removing the endcap then using needle nose pliers, pull out the silicone rope/string seal. It stretches and pulls out easily, then the front glass will slide out with ease. Putting it back is tougher though sliding the glass along with the silicone seal pulling along with it and not ending up with a lot of stretched out seal in the ends. I took out the lenses on mine that covers the leds, which allows some side spill so I can see more at the sides when turning on mountain roads.

[@jons6125]

Im amazed at the water proofing that’s normally what kills those lights if they are cheeper

[@johnq8792]

Very nice screw driver, the small one

[@devil2005iscool]

it needed the capcitor since the inductor needs to source its current into a cap and that is what that cap will do as its part of the chip . its hidden because you normally see it after the shottkey diodes and it still is if you explode the inside of the chip. so thats why it wasnt working and thats why replacing it worked.

[@karzygijose]

Wonder how they will work with the cheap 5 watt lamp beads in the same fixture

[@TKC_]

I have one of those I wanted to make a flood light. Was going to remove the glass to sand blast it to make it frosted to diffuse the light… guess I’ll just tape up the whole unit and do it assembled ha.

[@iainburgess8577]

Re differences in corrosion, would electrolysis be a possible explanation? Salt water in atmosphere + current in circuit. Possibly heat differential from hot leds W colder climate? Rig a diffuser panel across the top of the old extrusion, that could be an interesting indoor/covered floodlight. Maybe lower wattage to bottom limit to make that more reasonable?

[@gadgetwob]

I had a similar one to this. Supposedly 250W, but only took 10A with a 12V supply. Marketing watts = real watts * x, where x is whatever you think you can get away with. Still really bright though!

[@jon-paulgrainger1303]

Could the glass of been bonded in place with heat afterwards Clive? Intresting construction 👍

[@bigclivedotcom]

I'm not sure how they achieved such a linear seal in that confined space.

[@Tim_Small]

@@bigclivedotcom I took apart a similar light. I thought they'd probably used a preformed sealing strip, and used something like alcohol as a lubricant to slide the glass sheet in (mine was acrylic) alongside it. Same technique is used to get bicycle handlebar grips onto the metal bars. Once the alcohol evaporates, it's stuck fast.

[@markevans2294]

Interesting approach of using the same kind of diodes in parallel. Guessing this translates into a cost saving.

[@Chris_the_Muso]

Yes it will increase the current carrying capacity so can replace a much bigger and more expensive diode, however it is fraught with danger since not all diodes are exactly the same. The diode with the lowest forward voltage will still carry much higher current. It's not something that is usually recommended. I guess that's how China do...

[@clynesnowtail1257]

I have one of these generic light bars on my work van. Bad part, is it is extremely RF noisy. I can be listening to a full quieting signal, turn it on and it goes away after a "KSHHH" squelch crash. Ive tested it as causing nearly 40db desense in VHF at about 146MHz. Its also only 8-10 inches away from my VHF antenna on the roof, so thats definitely not helping me. I havent bought another one because Im reasonably certain they are all like that. If they are using these on a boat, its likely going to reduce the range of their Marine VHF radio. It'll still talk out as far as it normally does but the range it can hear will be reduced.

[@thesunexpress]

Did the boat not have a proper sacrificial anode? It's a bit of a stretch, but the solder corroding... might be a good idea to see if BoatyCaptain McBoatFisherman has other sealed electronics presenting the same corrosion. Would suck if radio / engine management electronics fail at inconvenient moments.

[@bigclivedotcom]

That only protects the boats own hull.

[@geofham8332]

Hi , very interesting, many thanks.

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks Clive, quite interesting.

[@joshfriesen9401]

I think Clive has a closet in his house that is full of stuff he has taken to bits and this light bar is not going to fit!😂

[@Terrorist939]

How would one go about increasing the power of one of these units? Such as replacing the LEDs with higher wattage and then modifying the circuit. I have a very similar Chinese LED bar that had some 1w LEDs burn out so I replaced them with the 5w variant and I wish to try and get them a bit brighter.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Using better quality LEDs can make a huge difference at the same power. If you increase the power the new LEDs may fail fast if the heatsinking is not rated for it.

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

Does the actual power draw of LEDs translate into greater heat or does the efficiency factor in? If it puts out more energy in the form of light, does that mean less heat needs to be dissipated compared with an LED of lower efficiency that puts out less light for the same power input?

[@Chris_Grossman]

Perhaps they used a sealant / glue that acts as a lubricant before it cures,

[@Happyfacehotwheels]

I have one of them on my Ford Focus.

[@iamdarkyoshi]

One of the rare instances where the LEDs aren't the failure mode. Well, the main failure mode at least

[@andrewsmart2949]

yeah every four wheel drive in ausutralia is plastered with these light bars simliar failure rate

[@kareno8634]

Thanks Clive! Competing with 'Waterproofing' & Fixing too. Things aboard Boats should be a bit harder to take to bits - Not for Clive.

[@MadScientist267]

I got the Wally world special version of this thing... Haven't opened it yet but also not planning on putting it in the elements and it was for a project that hasn't yet come to be... I digress. It's effing *gnarly* bright... But I'm not gonna let it run any length of time until I've confirmed the heat sinking (or lack of as is common 🙄) and check it out... I like previews of anything tho, even if I'm not gonna be going in what I see... This just happens to work out lol

[@lordpitnolen2196]

On your next visit to Poundland i suggest that you ask if they have a small, battery-powered screwdriver. Could reduce the risk of RSI and, even, cut the length of your videos by 15 seconds :-)

[@Multi-Skill-Bill]

I realize that this is a 2 year old video, But I have a question.. Could you (theoretically) cut that board in certain places and add power in order to make multiple lights? Those are so cheap now, it might be a good way to get a bunch of random sized lights for other fun projects ;). Apologies for the lurking. I am slowly making my way through all of your vids. And Hell! There is a bunch haha!

[@bigclivedotcom]

Some lights are modular and can have bits repurposed as separate sections.

[@weerobot]

Shiver Me Timbers...

[@lightcapmath2777]

Excellent! Thank you DVD:)

[@DavieTait]

The cheap LED flood lights used on fishing boats are a nightmare , they produce radio interference that effectively halves the range the boats VHF radios can receive at , interferes with the GPS navigation and the AIS receiver goes to half the range ( AIS : Automatic Identification System , boats carry them linked to their GPS and it transmits the boats name , course and speed so other boats can see them directly on their radars and gps navigation computers )

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

It's only me from over sea, said Barnacle Bill the sailor.... I may be in the wrong universe again, but I thought that, in the special case of just two resistors in parallel - the values (0.12 + 0.16) are added together ( = 0.28), then divided by two, (0.28 ÷ 2 = 0.14 ohms). ? Plz correct me if I'm wrong.

[@billr3053]

You've used formula for "average". Two resistors in parallel shortcut formula is R1×R2/(R1+R2)

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

@@billr3053 Thanks Bill. Guess I'm in the Wrong Universe again... What about 'the special case of two resistors of the same value, in parallel' ?

[@billr3053]

@@snakezdewiggle6084 Then you just divide its value by 2.

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

@@billr3053 cheerz Bill ;)

[@paulcresswell6268]

Clive; are you going to use the LEDs in a project?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I don't thinks so. They will have reduced in efficiency.

[@jubbyquarkret4262]

This is a good video. Have a comment you entertaining bastard.

[@Tommyinoz1971]

I knew it was serious when I saw the Dremel.

[@fredflintstone1]

Nice video could you not clean up the glass tracks and get a new piece of glass to slide in and have a large non waterproof work light ?? damn I forgot you got the dremel out on the aluminium ah well time to just salvage the parts

[@larry785]

How's that right to repair working out for ya? LOL

[@lostjohnny9000]

My guess is they crimped the top of the extrusion down onto the glass with a big roller.

[@danlemke6407]

I would think a lubricant that allowed the glass in, then sealed on the ends. Just a WAG though...

[@lostjohnny9000]

Saliva is a good lube to use on bike handlebar grips.

[@NY411Info]

Surface mount Caps are shit. Throw away world, though we all talk about going green . How can you go friendly when everything is throw away junk ? Thanks for the Vid. Big Clive.

[@pinterelectric]

They put them on the front of vehicles here in the USA, it’s so blinding!

[@fertilizerspike]

Glass may have been put in then the housing could have been crimped over it

[@luderickwong]

this is space age technology already, do you know what it replaced? I still remember those coca cola bottle size light bulbs that specifically made for fishing boats use at night to lure squids, shrimps, and fish fry. you will need a row of, say, 20 on one side of the boat and a seperate generator to feed it. in those days, you won't know what you will encounter, i have seen a whale coming up from deep perpendicular, open its mouth and swallow every fish fry we gather by lights, "ok, you win", that's everyone in the boat that day agrees…

[@phonotical]

I find it odd how you say first it looks super clean inside, before having opened it...

[@bigclivedotcom]

No mould, corrosion or condensation visible through the glass.

[@phonotical]

@@bigclivedotcom unlike the rcd I replaced 🤔

[@johnmorgan1629]

Irish sea or north sea, neither is as pesky, when you can't see what you're doing, when LED's drop dethsky. Then again, I have been on board ship in the north sea, when it's lost propulsion.

[@gacherumburu9958]

👍👍

[@Foobar_The_Fat_Penguin]

I imagine that in the Irish sea, overheating due to driving the LEDs too hard is not that big of an issue.

[@goodun2974]

The end-user must provide sufficient water-cooling, in partnership with Mother Nature.

[@bigclivedotcom]

There's always plenty of wind.

[@goodun2974]

@@bigclivedotcom , evaporation of alcoholic beverages provides cooling --- but I doubt any fishermen will pour their whiskey on their LED light-bar!

[@peterjensen6844]

I thought we were about to get an epic Dangar Marine / Big Clive crossover....

[@ElvenSpellmaker]

I really dislike how so many LEDs are done in series, it means if one goes out they all go out... And most end-users won't be able to replace one and so all of them are then out of use or the whole light is when there's perfectly fine components there...

[@andygozzo72]

its likely done to reduce current,

[@obliviousostrich1002]

By my possibly incorrect calculation, they'd need ~26 amps if all in parallel (assuming 3v leds)

[@ElvenSpellmaker]

@@obliviousostrich1002 Why so? I'm intrigued, I'm sure there's reasons why they do it, but I can't see it other than less components and so cheaper component count.

[@obliviousostrich1002]

@@ElvenSpellmaker As I understand it (I'm just a hobbyist) the LEDs are probably low voltage 2-3v (i forget if clive measured them) and in series their voltage adds up while in parallel it doesn't. Given that current = power(watts) / voltage, having them running at low voltage means they must draw higher current to run at 2 watts. Higher current requires thicker wire/track and beefier components to prevent voltage drop & overheating. If you've ever seen those LED strips where the end is dimmer, that's the voltage dropping due to the resistance of the thin copper track along the strip. Lowering the required current(by increasing voltage) or the resistance(using a thicker / shorter conductor) would reduce that effect.

[@obliviousostrich1002]

Oh and components rated for high current would be bulky and expensive

[@Jim-si7wz]

yeh big Clive that light is well screwed.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It is now. I was hoping the glass might just slide out.

[@andygozzo72]

@@bigclivedotcom well, unscrewed, maybe 😜

[@LoftechUK]

Fix it and send it back

[@evensgrey]

All the trouble you had with the seals and you're surprised at how dry and clean the fixture is inside?

[@ImigrentfromMars]

We have idiots driving around with these on there car's and trucks in the city

[@karzygijose]

Cheap .5 watt epistle chips

[@blackIce504]

talk about non serviceable light...."right to repair, company says sure in very very small print if you can open it."

[@NurdRage777]

CCFL for reliability. LED for cheapness.

[@theshannonlimit1114]

see lights like this, equally unservicable, on CNC machines a lot too

[@09lnt]

Don't worry, the fishermen won't need their gear anymore since they're going bankrupt due to Brexit.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The Isle of Man has never been part of Europe. But I'm sure the UK government will be interfering somehow,

[@mattelder1971]

I'd think that they put a sealant in the track for the glass that cures after the glass is slid in. Seems a very intelligent design choice for an electronic device that is expected to be used in harsh conditions. But yes, that does effectively make it unserviceable.

[@eliotmansfield]

probably the same stuff they bond windscreens in with

[@mattelder1971]

@@eliotmansfield Exactly what I was thinking. That would explain his difficulty in getting it removed from the housing.

[@Tim_Small]

I took apart a similar light with an acrylic sheet instead of glass. In that case I reckoned they'd used something like alcohol to slide the acrylic sheet in with preformed sealant beads in the extrusion. It becomes immobile once the alcohol evaporates.

[@vsvnrg3263]

@@eliotmansfield , a good chance of that. a sort of polyurethane adhesive. its used in car windshields and probably train and bus windows as well because when it sets it becomes structural. and one of my cars is 35 years old and the window adhesive is as good as new.

[@hobbesscott1014]

Yes, a cured urethane adhesive as used to bond windshields in place. If you are ambitious you can usually remove glass like this by cutting the adhesive away from the glass with a thin wire saw. This requires access to both sides of the glass so a long tool with an eyelet is needed to position the wire on the inside surface of the glass.

[@Totalinternalreflection]

Wait, they weren’t cooking the LEDs and the housing was well put together? It’s got to get up doots for that at least.

[@travisash8180]

It still failed.

[@Totalinternalreflection]

@@travisash8180 indeed.

[@FlatBroke612]

@@Totalinternalreflection >>>back to plebbit

[@Totalinternalreflection]

@@FlatBroke612 you seem nice, thanks for your input.

[@andrewedis9907]

Your name made me smile Mr cats😊

[@Shaun.Stephens]

"Well worth taking apart" - a sentiment I can relate to.

[@mikerhodes9198]

Good review. As use is for the ocean cannot fault them for over designing seals. Since the the tiniest leak would be disastrous.

[@eeunatela1]

Now, do a new "super computer" with the reflectors

[@richardturton6900]

A faulty MLCC strikes again! I wonder how much much electronic equipment is sitting in land fill with just a faulty MLCC?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Or is causing short battery life in normally low current equipment with one across the battery connections. I see that a lot.

[@RK-kn1ud]

Lots of TVS diodes and shorted MOSFETS as well. Multi-thousand dollar products being tossed over $0.02 parts

[@westinthewest]

I managed to remove the glass on a small version of one of these floodlights. I noticed that the black rubber strips had a few millimeters sticking out of each end, so I was able to pull both these ends - not to drag the strips out, but to stretch them to a reduced diameter, thus reducing their grip on the glass. The rubber strips had been fitted dry. There was no glue or cured sealant involved.

[@dcallan812]

It looks like the light was not built on the cheap, such a shame it failed for such a little component.

[@andygozzo72]

modern caps, especially the highly miniaturised things, are cack! stick a mylar cap in and doubt it'll ever need changing

[@dcallan812]

@@andygozzo72 yes just a pity that must folk have no idea how to fix things now. ANd to change it you have to bust the unit apart. 👍

[@josephking6515]

1:10 Is poor Clive succumbing to the COVID-19 lockdown on the IoM because it looks like he now *torx* with his screwdriver. 🤦‍♂️ Yes I know..........hat, coat and exit quickly before the crowd pummels me. 😱

[@twotone3070]

No, you're fine so long as you have offspring to prove it.

[@wombatillo]

Nothing is sufficiently waterproof in ocean conditions.

[@goodun2974]

I used to install marine electronics and navigation equipment for a living. Condensation and saltwater ingress is always an issue.

[@Nono-hk3is]

I just love when the dremmel makes an appearance

[@johnpossum556]

What is the Mannish version of the name Dremel Dan?

[@bandit4550]

Yes, he goes a long way for the money shot, love it.🤗

[@AdrianDowthwaite]

And the handheld X-Ray device too!

[@spacemanbowkonami]

Me hearing Clive say "Louis Sr.", and thinking: "That's a bit random to just shout out a name, even for Clive... Oh waaaaaaait...... LOW ESR!" ;-)

[@fouzaialaa7962]

it would be intresting to try to re- seal it up ... sealing for salty water is different than regular water mainly becoz of the salt residue and the fact that salt will eat up and erode most of the sealing compounds

[@MadScientist267]

Water is a damn tricky thing. You get what appears by all accounts a good seal on something from the elements... You'll find out the seal works, but only in reverse. Never have figured that out lol

[@burntorangeak]

I wonder how this compares to the extremely expensive Rigid and VisionX brands. I'm guessing they're very much the same.

[@assassinlexx1993]

They probably come from the same factory. Just with different name on it. For higher profit margin.

[@starfox6335]

I, too am half lit sometimes. ❤

[@JohnAudioTech]

They use those same Epistar style LEDs in the cheap 1$ flashlights sold at Dollar Tree here in the US.

[@primateinterfacetechnologi6220]

I grew up in the small and unique town of Bolinas, on the west coast of California, about 50 minutes north of San Francisco... Bolinas is basically a peninsula; surrounded on three sides by water, and fish. back in the Cretaceous era, when I was about 14, I saved and purchased a commercial fishing license, so I could go out fishing with some of the local fishermen. we fished Chinook salmon, halibut, Dungeness crab, and "rock cod" (various species of small basses). fond memories of many an adventure... and was the hardest work I've ever done. a couple of years however... I discovered music, girls, and pot... as one may. peace be upon you, sir.

[@ashleysmith3106]

Only the Irish would think of using an off-road vehicle light on a boat!

[@rjmun580]

The Isle of Man is in the Irish Sea but it isn't part of Ireland.

[@danlemke6407]

@@rjmun580 Awesome motorcycle races there.

[@Jedda73]

Ive been hanging out for so long to see one of these led light bars on this channel. Many thanks to your friend for the contribution.

[@enlightendbel]

Only the solder joints being affected means that while it is water proof, it's likely not 100% air tight and the corrosion is from salty moist air getting in.

[@timteecvhn]

Oh not even 2 minutes in and this is already gonna be good. (yes commenting before I've even watched the whole thing.)

[@goodun2974]

I would have put on welder's tinted goggles or visor before turning that beast on with it pointed anywhere near my face!

[@NillKitty]

Clive, would love to see you talk about mechanical chasers. I only found one video (v=yhKqC3MHZ6Y) on KZbin of someone demonstrating a mechanical chaser. To think that one of those was whirring someplace any time we'd see twinkling lights on The Price Is Right or other TV game shows.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Not so common in the UK, but I do have a cam switch here for a video.

[@nicleics]

Post-drunken-tech-weirdos-poo-carpet-just-an-illusion-fishing-boat-light video…

[@bigclivedotcom]

It started after that stream, but went into the next day to get opened with the Dremel.

[@nicleics]

@@bigclivedotcom that would explain the change in fluency 😂

[@ronnierush9379]

Great Video: Capacitors seem to be the main failure point in loads of circuits, can somone reinvent them so they last longer ?

[@Spectral_Penguin]

Excluding for a moment the cheap knock off capacitors prevalent for sale on various sites, the main way to extend the life of capacitors is not to cram too much capacitance in a tiny package, and run them around I think it's 60-70% of their rated voltage. The closer to rated voltage they are run the shorter their lifespan.

[@assassinlexx1993]

There is Engineer who sole job is to make it work till the warranty expires. It is like they put a clock in the chip. Tick tick bang times up. Now buy a new one. Yes I am very jaded.

[@MadScientist267]

There's nothing really to "reinvent", just the (as Clive mentioned) over miniaturization bit. There's nothing "wrong" with the caps these days (true "plague" was a slightly different thing), they are simply rated with way closer margins than they should be. Old school rule of thumb... No more than 50% rated "whatever" at the intended operating temp... That's partly (not close to entirely lol) why things were so damn big back in the day... "Make damn sure". Everything these days is within a few % of failure, LEDs in fact (the individual dies and cooling combo) being one of the worst. They would be *crazy* more efficient and last long enough to pass them to the grandkids by just backing off the ask a few points... There are other ways to get the lumen count desired... Clive has even done videos on it... But where's the money in that? Same thing with the caps... Tiny doesn't just mean small phones, it means less raw material the manufacturer has to spend cash on to make the components... So it's win win for them... Push everything to the limit by minimizing what it's made of, save money there. If it fails? Sweet! They gotta buy another one.

[@bigclivedotcom]

They used to be reliable, but they's over miniaturised them.

[@MadScientist267]

@@bigclivedotcom They also kinda found themselves in a predicament with 'lytics and SMPS. I very rarely (only the super high end electronics) see electrolytics bypassed correctly (normally not at all) for the demands high frequency switching puts on them... We're starting to see those issues fade because the frequencies of supplies are getting so high, 1uF can do the job 10,000uF (or, higher) would have been needed for with 50/60 Hz linears, and several hundred to a couple thousand can do for slower SMPS. 10,000uF caps have to be electrolytic. Not practical to do more than handful uF without them. 1uF can be damn near anything in theory (SMPS wants it stiff tho, lol sooo..) It is what it is. Some equipment won't escape them... And proper bypassing is a way to greatly extend their lifespan... And it's cheap... Leaves only one thing. Just more fuel for the theory... "We *want* it to fail" 🤦‍♂️

[@mcomiskey7]

Good morning all.

[@MostlyInteresting]

Its called the Irish Sea because the Brits and Scots didn't want to have any thing do do with something so unruly.... :P

[@tbelding]

Well, now you have a garage floodlight to mount to the roof.

[@johnpossum556]

I know which neighbor I would point mine at.

[@18robsmith]

@@johnpossum556 I'd have it controlled by a sensor to detect when their sky-illuminating flood light came on. Might need some barn doors so only their house was illuminated.

[@DejitaruJin]

"Over-miniaturized" is right, that board is relatively huge for the components they decided to use.

[@svchineeljunk-riggedschoon4038]

If you want to put this back together, 3M 4200 is the most economical marine adhesive sealant for the job.

[@keithking1985]

CLIVE YOU NEVER LET US DOWN WHEN IT COMES TO LEARNING COOL STUFF OFF YA!! YOU BLOODY LEGEND.. ; )

[@cypeman8037]

When you counted the ten LEDs, did you expect less or more at the other side? You carried on counting to twenty. 😂