Optic Plate on the P365 SAS???

If you want to know more about options for your P365 SAS you need to watch this and we will dive into the Red Dot mounting systems!!

[@VladTepesh409]

Instructions to break loose OEM screws: I dove a little more into how to remove the OEM screws for the FT Bullseye sight. Here are some conditions and instructions to remove these OEM screws: 1) There is a spot of blue locktite on the threads of the OEM screws for the recessed FT Bullseye sight. 2) A consideration of blue locktite is that trying to patiently break loose the screws activates the locking function of the locktite by "bunching" it up and binding the threads like you would expect if you were tightening the screws rather than loosening them. 3) Locktite can be heated using a soldering iron (minus the solder) or hot glue gun (minus the hot glue) by resting the hot end on each screw for five-ten minutes each. 4) It helps to have the following tools: bench vice, a thick rag, hot glue gun or soldering iron, impact drill with torx bits (T9) in S2 Steel. Carbon Veranium (CrV) torx bits in hand-crank drivers will be stripped because of the OEM screw tension and locktite. Once you've heated one screw for five-ten minutes, drop the thick cloth into the vice followed by your SAS slide with the screws accessible. Tighten the vice just enough so your SAS slide doesn't move freely. Drop your torx bit impact driver into the heated OEM screw, turning by hand until the torx bit fully seats into the screw. Now, apply your body weight into the impact driver and then squeeze the trigger on your impact driver. The process will take about a second to break the OEM screws free, but they will break free. Repeat for the other screw and you can pick up on this video with your optic replacement. One side note to expect with the Holosun optic on the P365 SAS is that if your holster is made for P365 SAS, you may find, as I did, that it doesn't necessarily fit snug into the holster. I own an Aliengear holster and found that it can fit, barely, if I allow the holster to push the Holosun optic and slide back a little (about 3-4 mm), then the trigger guard will activate locking it in place. However, the trigger guard did need to be tightened more due to the pistol being under spring tension by the slide spring. It's just a little tension, and certaily not enough to be worried about accidental discharge, but that was my primary concern. I could soften the holster plastic with a heat gun and mold it to the Holosun optic by firmly pressing the pistol into the holster and keeping my thumb or palm of my hand on the rear of the slide in order to remove the spring tension, but that is a project for another day. EDIT: In researching the kind of material that Aliengear uses for their holsters, I found they don't use traditional Kydex plastic, but instead use something called, "ShapeShift," which is a kind of proprietary nylon polymer, slightly more resistant to heat and breakage than Kydex. Instead of heating the Aliengear holster to fit the Holosun optic accessory, which was causing the slide to be slid back putting it under spring tension, I found a simpler, safer, and less time-consuming way than trying to heat the nylon polymer holster. Instead, I just used a razor, much like you'd use on carpet or drywall, measured out the clearance needed, marked twice, and cut. It came out perfect! Because Aliengear is black, there is hardly any distinctive ridges from the cut, and now the P365 SAS with Holosun optic safely and securely seats in the Aliengear holster without the slide being pushed back and under spring tension. Hope this helps out my fellow firearms enthusiasts.

[@arockwilson8361]

Thanks for video. Getting my setup ordered today

[@jeffw8218]

I liked the sighting system, but I don’t think it’s appropriate for quick-self defense scenarios. That’s why I added an optic plate and Holosun; getting on target is so much faster with a red dot.

[@nickperry7183]

Were your OEM sight screws super hard to get off? Skipped over that part in the video?

[@bfgprecision]

No not a t all. I have had times on other firearms where I had trouble with slide mounted optic plates. Just take your time and be sure to use the correct bit.

[@VladTepesh409]

Mine had a spot of locktite on the threads. I heated them with a hot glue gun for 5-10 minutes, put the slide in a bench vice with a thick rag so as not to mar the finish, took the T9 S2 Steel torx bit and impact driver securely seating it into the screw, applied bodyweight, and broke the screws free. I have full conditions and instructions to do so in my other comment under this video.

[@JasonNaughton]

What did you do to get your sas to have that front slide release lever instead of the round turn one?

[@nicholasbyram296]

The SAS is gun that is designed to function just outside of punch range. No lasers required. However, using an optic is useful for training grip for point shooting.

[@pedro1970maya]

In my case, I got it thinking that the SAS would be a more effective sighting system than it is, but I cannot now default to iron sights because there is no front sight neither pinned nor dovetailed. My only fallback option therefore is an adaptive optic plate and an optic. But you are spot on that in general it would be great for practicing shooting fundamentals, otherwise the optic does sort of defeats the true spirit of the aggressive SAS anti-snagging.

[@davidtong5584]

What size driver did you use to remove the screws

[@bfgprecision]

The OEM Bullseye sight uses T8 screws and the optic plate has T9 screws to mount it to the slide.

[@pedro1970maya]

Thx

[@bradjones5318]

What was the price on this setup with the plate and the optic?

[@bfgprecision]

Probably looking at just under $500 all in.

[@VladTepesh409]

That's about right. The Holosun optic I purchased came in at about $350 and the mounting plate and screws came in at about $85 (including shipping), but I also tipped them bringing it up to $100. Overall, about $450. However, I also needed torx bits (specifically T9 for the OEM screws and T15 for the optic screws, which brought the project up to about $475 total.

[@richardgerhard3630]

When I set the plate on my SAS and tightened the plate screws the front of the plate seemed to elevate somewhat? Is that normal?

[@bfgprecision]

That didn't happen when I did mine. Maybe take it off, inspect the slide and plate and reinstall it? Mine sat pretty flush.

[@richardgerhard3630]

@@bfgprecision Thanks for your quick reply. I did back off on how tight the plate screws were and it seemed to settle down - I'll shoot it and see how it goes.

[@bfgprecision]

@@richardgerhard3630 I'm sure you did but use a good thread locker. I use blue Loctite sometimes but prefer Vibra Tite VC3 because it remains pliable and you can get it removed easy when you remove what it is you are securing.

[@scotscottscottt]

So... basically not an SAS lol

[@CRCfail]

Video finally starts at 0:26 but then there's a bunch of useless talking... really need to learn to get to the point. You'll see a lot of compliments to channels that actually get to the point, right away.