Orange Adventures (Part 1)

[@UpgradingAsUsual]

I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!

[@ziggy8757]

@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...

[@gakudzu7282]

@@nunayafb 😂

[@DannyTangtam]

love to see one as awell

[@steweyj6281]

I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed

[@UpgradingAsUsual]

@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.

[@wileymonair]

Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!

[@ammardelreal3802]

the quality of these videos are actually insane

[@keatonjones6115]

awwww damn i thought i knew Hi, mid and bass/sub bass but that illistration with the sounds in the background cemented it better than i thought

[@dedblank_again]

IMHO some of the best produced and watchable content on KZbin. Thank you and I am so glad I found your channel. Top notch my friend.

[@poman911]

One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.

[@koyzumie]

Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them. That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it. But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves. Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.

[@craigtamayo7322]

I always come her for the technical info, still learning every time I watch. Thx HexiBase and for the old school folks PWK.

[@no_tread_]

Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol

[@poldelepel]

What's the influence of the materials of the casing? Are softer materials worse?

[@kencohagen4967]

In the sub bass region, where most subwoofers seem to come into play, I’ve found that anything below 30 Hz or so is basically flutter. From around 30 Hz upward the sub bass region becomes musical. In my early attempts at building my own speakers I focused my attention on reaching all the way down to 20 Hz, but after I got my current system, which uses two two way speakers rated from 45 Hz up tp 23 kHz for the mains and 23 Hz up to about 250 Hz for the sub I found that the frequencies any loser than 28 to 30 Hz weren’t really pleasant and not used in music unless the musician is playing a Synthesizer. Then other Musician must be careful about the lower frequencies are used as the Flutter of the lowest audible frequencies can fatigue the listener’s ears. So now I focus on around 28 to 30 Hz for a full range loudspeaker design. Do you agree Pete? Oh, and hey Sophie!

[@SamusSays]

I can't wait to build one of these, I already made two sets of the bookshelf speakers and they sound amazing! Thank you for sharing the files!

[@davidperry4013]

When I build my T-line corded stereo Bluetooth speaker, I am going to use 3.5-inch balanced mode radiators, 3d printing, a DIY ST electronics TPA 7269 14+14w based class-AB amplifier for natural more organic sound, a heat sink to cool the amp cop, apt-x Bluetooth board to take advantage of class AB amplification, foam tape to cover the wires, front buttons, and rocker switch, a power LED, and power it all with a salvaged 35w 19v inline wall wart because 28w will be used to power the speakers and about 7 watts are wasted as heat from the amplifier IC and a few milliwatts are used by the apt-x Bluetooth board.

[@andrescaraudioinstall415]

Wow this resen printer is AMAZING. I can't wait for bigger ones of these to come out todo Dash kits for cars.

[@crazy4chickens]

Surround sound system with these skip bose all-together

[@NVMDSTEvil]

Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.

[@cavinrauch]

For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !

[@simontilstedhansen9296]

I always love to watch your videos. They are so well done and professional, keep up the great quality😁

[@ProfSnakes]

So if you combine this video with the end of your isobaric loading video, could you make an even smaller t-line?

[@TheSupertecnology]

I can't wait for part 2 👁️👄👁️

[@Amiro1990]

If you'll use wood or ceramic materials the closer you'll get as you know other materials absorb or reflected or scattered throughout materials even sound waves using PLA AKA plastic would decrease your efficiency it is a good prototype but I'm willing to gamble on it.

[@crazyjc15]

Just found your channel today and ive already started to binge watch lol! But i have to ask, has there been any update on sorting the printing issues?

[@sirmrmcjack2167]

damn, those small speakers are impressive

[@solucionestecnologicas6844]

@@HexiBase have you thought about printing some horn loaded mini speakers??? like this one and maybe do a comparison: like transmission line vs sealed vs bass reflex vs horn loaded

[@leondantas]

@@HexiBase a 3d printed TV sound bar would be great. What about some Chinese speakers for it?

[@bbenny9033]

kinda want them for my horrible sounding tv

[@Offsettttt]

@@leondantas You need to do a lot of processing on sound to make a soundbar sound right ))

[@3rutu5]

@@leondantas tectonics are chinese speakers :)

[@Ratseeker]

I had actually taken a screenshot a moment before his suggestion. He knew. D:

[@genoziderkanine2668]

SAME

[@ferdinandsanchez7040]

Full Range Drivers w notch filters on a printed passive radiator box... somethin i just wanna see built :-)

[@noeljonsson3578]

We all know that 612.2 nanometers is the best wavelength. If you know you know.

[@billmorton2917]

My guess would be the printers UV light is not evenly dispersed or a bulb/led issue.

[@david3292]

Make it a little Bigger and do a 2 tweeter, one woofer design. Put a battery and bluetooth receiver in there and u got yourself a deal.

[@ChannelZeroOne]

The t-line needs to be much more narrow to get the compression for good bass. Just focus on sub bass.

[@ChannelZeroOne]

@@HexiBase Have you tried it or just speculating? Just because specs say the speaker resonance fq is 120 dont mean you cant get a solid 40hz out of it. Most subs out there are played lower than their f3 anyways. You should try a smaller diameter port with the the same length. I guarantee you the bass will be louder. Forget about full range, make this thing pound hard. That's the beauty to a t-line aka long ass folded horn. You can get any speaker to bump hard.

[@Aint1S]

I think a really cool project for these little drivers would be something a bit more practical and 🤔 natural... *A pair of custom heads cans!* Headphone cans with an enclosure shape in the form of a nautilus spiral. It would tick so many boxes for views with gamers and audio enthusiasts that you would be hard-pressed to catch such a large swathe of people. I believe the port should probably open up behind the lower portion of the ear to avoid negative pressures as well as induce resonance into the jawbone. I was thinking of doing it, but I don't have these printers. I would have to Tig weld an aluminum enclosure and it would be too hard to pull off to make it anywhere as light or as clean as your tools can do it. Computer printing composites is amazing.

[@beedoobee1]

2 of these and a blue tooth receiver though.

[@1QKGLH]

It would be nice if you could release the design file. I want to print this, but the connections on the front won't work for me. I see that someone mixed your file to put the inputs on the bottom, but he also changed the size of the line. I just want to move the inputs to the back.

[@jhow3d688]

Interesting. A couple of these under the front seats in the car would be a great Midbass replacement.

[@blanchae]

I use Norah Jones Come Away with Me as reference test audio. Clean vocals, low bass drums and piano.

[@blanchae]

@@HexiBase Forgot about that.

[@JonCherba]

Can these be stood up on end to be vertical? I need something that sounds great and can go next to monitor on a desk.

[@Tom-yc8jv]

I redid the design to have the ports in the rear, so that you don't have wires hanging down the front of it

[@Arek_R.]

Same here, bught resin printer, got one or two succesful prints and then it's crap. That's how these cheap resin printers are. Also quality degradation at larger prints is due to lack of rigidity of such budget machines that are not designed to handle those forces and simply flex a lot. Same as you, I just went back to FDM printer.

[@kevinAuman1]

This guy is a freakin audio genius, he designed the custom series tuned 6th order subwoofer box for my sundown X15v2 and it sounds incredible and somehow outperforms the pair of X15'S my buddy has in a box that he designed and built himself... Remember kidds, it's all about the box but a good woofer does help also lol

[@ThatOneGuySometime]

Dude, nice bicentennial Ike. Didn't know you were a numismatist!

[@djornfevrier4799]

Thank you for doing these videos!!!

[@DaveBode]

Nice b-roll, Mr. Hexi. Do you use a jib for those sweeping shots? It looks like maybe a JibOne from Edelkrone, but that just came out. Either way, good stuff!

[@Raczoon]

I recently had the idea of a sound enhancing phone case for my treasured LG V20, perhaps routing a folded horn around the extended battery. However, I completely lack the tools to execute this idea. But I'd still very much like to see someone do some experiments with sound-improving phone cases, and I can think of no one better to pitch the idea to.

[@juanpeter]

what is the stand your using on your krk monitors with that arm look sick

[@forsakenrider]

Any reason why you used two drivers? I would be interested in a single driver version, but this is still very excellent.

[@Frambhueee]

Can you build a woofer enclosure based on a jet turbine?

[@David-mv3zl]

Now this is my kind of woofer. Not gonna set me back 1k

[@protator]

Another good video. I'd love to see/hear a set of these speekers together with a matching sub in the same formfactor.

[@LOCOsnakeBITES]

That 20w curing setup is way too much! Think of it like glass. If glass cools slowly, the internal stresses have time to equalize and shift. Where as if you cool too quickly, the outer layer contracts rapidly and breaks it. Same for resin. It needs to cure at a much slower pace or one side will shrink and pull before the other side has a chance to. And the skull one just looks like you didnt have enough resin in the bath. Better luck next time man

Nice work! Tectonic is also offering slightly bigger driver TEBM35C10-4. Would this extend the bass further and how should the design be modified?

@@HexiBase I understand that new driver requires new waveguide design. You cant just swap in a different driver and expect improvements in frequency response. Would it be possible to get a video where you show us a little about your design process. (for example; why in this design case you ended up with wider initial fold)

[@gppanicker]

The programme used for modelling?

[@JusstyteN]

Such a quality content, thanks

[@kevinschaluppke3223]

Nice speakers! Any alternatives to the Tectonic TEBM28C10-4/A drivers? Can´t find these on the European market.

[@davey4697]

Make DIY kits for the audio community - I am sure many would buy your designs.

[@offgridd]

Nice project!. Would you like to share the building drawings and info for the speakers?

[@_GRBL]

whats the point of these boxes doesnt the speaker make the sound waves... im missing something please explain this

[@constantringingtech2230]

Any follow up on this? I can't wait for part 2!

[@focuspocus9774]

Bet it was more bass then a regular sub prob 8inch lol

[@priitmolder6475]

Yeah, no replacement for displacement. I mean, dont get me wrong, the tiny drivers perform OK....just not in this box. TL? A horn would be better...

[@phantomrad1]

You're a Looney!! :) Love the speaker designs

[@phantomrad1]

@@HexiBase Message for you Sir!

[@johnnyl1705]

HexiBase! i have a nixon blaster and i want to upgrade speakers any recommendations? Just a small project i wanna do!

[@natev7548]

What speakers will be best suited for a transmission line

[@natev7548]

Or what parameters do you need to look at

[@rhalfik]

Make yourself custom mold earphones based on your ear impressions.

[@laladamac]

ive been a fan for a while . i think i earned it hehe sos

[@Dinivrey]

I love your videos can't wait for part. I wanted to ask you to build a print in 230*230*400 its for my Ender 3. PLZZ buy a speaker from Aliexpress for global shipping and low cost many thanksss !!

[@sMASHsound]

great video again. have u ever worked with voight tubes? i was thinking about them, but found no material about how to calculate its tuning.

[@sMASHsound]

@@HexiBase im thinkin about doing some for the highpass of a home theatre like set up, so dont need them going too much lower than 40hz, not full range per say. but all the designs ive found didnt not show a way to calculate them. the open end port/flare is easy 1/4 wave calculation, but the closed end, im not sure how that interacts with the driver and 't-line' section, to know what to calculate. my line of thinking is, if i tune the open section for 50hz centered, it will have peaks at 100hz, 200hz, 400hz 800hz. and then tune the closed section for 75hz, so it will peak at 150hz, 300hz, 600hz. so it more or less fills out the bandwidth, very efficiently.

[@5T3LTH]

Our formlabs form 2 printer does the same thing

[@edwinhuezo1141]

¡ WOW ! VERY COOL 👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏✌

[@tristenbezayiff571]

flat surfaces have issue printing

[@Johnsmith-wh1sx]

That company needs to replace all the supplies you used

[@tacticaltot8754]

IEMS YOU NEED TO PRINT CUSTOM IEMS

[@gabydewilde]

If this is the future I'm not looking forwards to it... ha-ha

[@RomanBlack599]

heeey i have been following your account for a while, i really like what you do, wanna learn more about what you know to improve and connect myself with my one and only true passion, music. Should i study sound engineering ? or where could i start?

[@MD_Builds]

Oh and protip.... use chitubox.

[@ziggy_shpakovsky]

Hello Do you have a project for 1pc of this Tectonic 1 1/8"?

[@David-mv3zl]

I helped my dad build a pair of speakers and low and behold he can only hear up to 7khz. All that good money spend on tweeters pooofff

[@ProDigit80]

My dad created a closed wooden enclosure with a square spiral port design inside. With a printer you can create a fully spiral port enclosure, starting with wide ports, ending with a very narrow path where the port walls meet one another.. i.pinimg.com/originals/1f/5b/51/1f5b511e52cfb5bb2317951a5f99f32a.jpg The drivers are too small for this enclosure, they have a ~700-1500Mhz bump from where I hear it.

[@canalsenhorpe]

good

[@brianhanson9367]

All that work to listen to that??

[@Japalian24]

What chair do you have?

[@Japalian24]

@@HexiBase Gotcha, Thank you. And I love your videos. Do you sell any of your finished speakers or do you tear them apart for another project?

[@buttfucker69]

Hey dude, I've been diving into your videos this last week and this seems like your most doable print by most people's standards. How hard would it be to scale this up to the 2.5" BMR? The TEBM46C20N-4B seem like an awesome candidate for some surrounds, and as midranges for towers. Could I just scale it and change the faceplate to get a similar result?

[@olimac938]

I want to learn how to make my own box, your channel is Excellent

[@zd6Gtoz6sUyZ]

Thank you for recording, and showing us a sound profile! I'm so tired of techies giving subjective opinions of sound with imprecise words.

[@Aint1S]

Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼

[@laurenttardif1948]

I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software. I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!

[@braddsouza4]

I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video

[@supersteveenglish7340]

It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.

[@FloppyBread]

@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian

[@supersteveenglish7340]

@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.

[@camploismyalias]

HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line

[@MadeWithLayers]

Great work! Hope you get the Longer Orange sorted out.

[@maximilianlindner]

I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!

[@Planetary13]

I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!

[@REDxFROG]

This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?

[@iWorld17]

REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again

[@JesseJames83]

This is pure gold to my senses. I chuckled at the Matrix cutaway. 😁👍

[@_XRMissie]

The Monty Python reference is just amazing. I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence". This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)

[@siebevanwartum5831]

Where's part 2?

[@1003Alfred]

The print would have come out much better if oriented diagonally, as resin printer is not the strongest in printing flat surface.

[@CarabellisCastle]

try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.

[@smartroadbiker]

Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉

[@JMcMillen]

@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.

[@andymuzzo8568]

Any luck with part 2?

[@saab9251]

Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.

[@Svensholmensvanner]

Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.

[@xpontiac]

Dude, I love how you take the time to go into the technical and scientific details - and your accuracy therein! We need more KZbinrs like you!!

[@carloslopezgreses3947]

Hi from Spain Pete! I really love your videos and I am always waiting for the next one to come out. I would really appreciate if you could answer my questions. 1- Is there any chance you could share the original 3D model so I can make a couple of mods to fit in some batteries on the side and make it a portable speaker? 2- Is there any mini bluetooth amp out there you could recommend for this drivers that could be small enough to make my portable speaker? Thank you in advance, Carlos.

[@vjmoglyman]

Hi friend, which app do you use for modelate in 3D before to print in 3D printer? Best luck from Chile

[@DarkIzo]

7:49 well well well, how the turntables...

[@__dm__]

HexiBase, do you mind sharing the critical dimensions of the enclosure? I would like to make a remixed version of your enclosure with a different form factor but still use the same acoustic structures (i.e. the cross sectional area of the T-line, the length, the volume of the cavity, etc)

[@RandoManFPV]

You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range