Organize your workshop with cheap and easy steel drawers!

I'm always short of workshop storage given the number of ongoing projects in our little workshop.
I've found sheet steel drawers easy to make, inexpensive, and you get more storage space because the material is so thin compared to chipboard, plywood or MDF

[@ryanmcgowan3061]

I would make one simple change that would be a big improvement: Leave 1 inch long on the front side and fold it forward 90° and then the last 1/4 inch or so another 45° or 90°. It will make the drawer much more rigid, and give you a handle what won't cut your fingers off if you get them caught when closing the drawer.

[@makerealstuff]

That's a great idea! Thanks!

[@kevvyg04]

Brilliant idea, this will be ideal for building a toolbox for sockets, spanners, rachets etc for when I’m working on the car - never thought of making my own ‘metal sheet bender’ look easy enough. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻

[@FloweringElbow]

Hey there! Thanks for sharing this. Sure looked easier than the welded ones I made from 1.5mm scrap sheet to go under our lathe. Happy making, Bongo.

[@makerealstuff]

I find that I need to learn / experiment with supports all the time!

[@boltonky]

Brilliant idea. Wanted to do this but runners where i live are anything between $20-$50 + shipping or travel costs, so each drawer works out to be between $50-100 if using thin plate steel or galv (which has to be sourced at local shop so they add cost) which for me always feels like a kick in the pants when you can't even afford to do stuff on the cheap. Keep up the good work cause giving people ideas and hope is a nice thing to do :)

[@northeastcorals]

Ooof that's rather pricey for runners 😬

[@myshopmyrules.3017]

Nice idea. I collect free fileing cabinets and gym locker to reclaim the sheet metal from. Iv also have my eyes on free broken stainless steel kitchen appliances.

[@makerealstuff]

I ashamedly confess have the same affliction - we have two white appliances standing outside waiting to be stripped for the sheet steel!

[@fishhuntadventure]

This!

[@ianloy1854]

Just a little improvement - if you cut the tabs with an angle on them they are easier to bend to 90 deg (the bottom of the tab) and the top of the tab doesn't protrude above the other side removing a sharp point that can get you. Can be any angle over say 30 deg - a quick snip with a hand cutter. At minimum do the top of the tab as it is easy to do and makes the drawer less aggressive... :)

[@johnkillen588]

brilliant and simple! Thank you!

[@rogrog8974]

This was better than I expected

[@secretaireshop4431]

Looks like a great solution!

[@makerealstuff]

Thanks!

[@fishhuntadventure]

You got a ‘like’ I might have used a hand brake to fold over the top edges (hemmed edge) for strength and safety, and hammered a few latitudinal beads into the bottoms as well. You got the like, though, because you didn’t try to copy manufactured tool box drawers. You made adequate, serviceable drawers out of available materials without employing a $20,000 water jet and CNC mill. Making and using tool boxes doesn’t have to be and shouldn’t be the equivalent of the Sistine Chapel

[@makerealstuff]

Thanks. That's a great idea! For v2.0

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Whilst I applaud the use of steel for drawers (less wasted space, etc) there are some problems. You may be able to get 0.5mm galvanized steel 'at hardware stores'- in the UK I could not locate it even at national steel stockists - best I could find was 0.9mm Probably just as well- 0.5 is not very rigid for heavy contents, and increases the problem of sharp edges- commercial steel drawers always have folded over edges. Cost- the material is over three times the price of 9mm ply, where joined construction results in less waste. Size- if the bottom is to not 'belly down' and foul the drawer below, it either has to be quite small (I like drawers to be 1m x 0.6m) or a large gap between drawers is needed- negating the value of using thin material. Small drawers increase cost (runners and sides) and reduce convenience. Of course, I would want both a front to cover the gaps, and a handle (especially with sharp edges)- and a printed label.

[@trilexfix]

very cool that you didn't weld anything cause I don't have an good tig welder yet

[@SmallPressBrake]

this is realy good

[@kleidtomasse]

I also got the same pneumatic riveter but air keeps leaking on the riveter head spares..

[@LPdeltaT]

What thickness did you use?

[@makerealstuff]

0.5mm / .02"

[@rogrog8974]

Amazing

[@dungcukhongday5697]

How is the thickness of steel plate?

[@makerealstuff]

0.5mm. Have also done with 0.4mm

[@NoodlesR6]

Is that a South African accent I hear?

[@makerealstuff]

It is!

[@ozzyozzy6728]

it is too thin and will bend quickly . That can be seem even you pull with your hand . Skip rivets and thin metal .

[@makerealstuff]

I've been using these for years loaded full of heavy tools. They work just fine and are completely undeformed. They flex, yes, but do not deform - and they carry the heavy load without dishing because of the integral bends to form the side walls as well as the stiffness provided by the runners' structure

[@Abowhuntersjourney]

The folds increase the strength of the material .... Im fabricate for a living

[@timothywhieldon1971]

when you want to spend 4x the cost of something you can buy and take an entire week to build vs 20 minutes to go BUY IT. what a waste. also turned out like some 7th grade drop out meth head shade tree mechanic BS

[@makerealstuff]

Where's the joy in that? These work out to about $12/drawer (600mm / 2ft deep), they're sturdy (I have mine loaded heavily), and provide more space than plywood.