Orion HCCA 3000 watt Korean amp dyno HCCA3000.1DSPLX amplifier best cheater / sleeper amp

[@BigJeffAudio]

Another non bias professional review done. ORION FTW we have plenty in stock

[@Jswain921]

My favorite amplifier..I had the 3000.1SPLX and 5000.1dv2

[@donaldhastyjr4066]

Orion for LIFE!!!

[@johnnyh127]

Def a good looking amp. I like the design.

[@andrewpsfour]

Their HCCA SPLX Subwoofers are on another level

[@joeJoe-pb3su]

I wish i can own one. Those are awsome amps. Orion 😊

[@zazz69ed]

🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 Love Orion!!!!!

[@joshholden8561]

The board layout looks like a super mega dual mono setup

[@joshholden8561]

My favorite amp ever !!

[@kamrenmy7007]

Would be cool to see the full lineup dyno tested.

[@joshholden8561]

The older version of the hcca 3ksplx did double the power this one did i guess this amp is a newer version?

[@Comptonk5]

Very good power coming from this amp. I’ve seen some Taramp amps push a lot more and stay cooler. This amp getting to 102° is pretty hot if you’re playing the system continuously.

[@flsabvb7578]

Great video 💪

[@HiFiVector]

Appreciate it!

[@christinaabundiz1888]

Beautiful amp brotha thank u for the time been debating gwtting a orion hcca amp when i was younger i always wanted the big orrion hcca subwoofers they were popular when i was growing up always wanted a pair now im looking at there 3k amp to power up my b2 subs

[@momanholmes8715]

Board is different compared to original one big D tested yrs ago. That one had 6 power supply transformers

[@delvinchandler]

This would be perfect for my two solo x 12s dual 1ohm subs

[@AJOSUE]

one per sub

[@delvinchandler]

@AJOSUE I could but I want to see what they do with one first.

[@mattstarke7373]

It sucks to see Orion went with a different board in this version. The older one killed this one.

[@littlejln213]

how can i buy the other version is there something i can look for when buying a usedone?

[@mattstarke7373]

@@littlejln213 The amplifier guts are different.I would go watch the dyno Williston Audio Laba did on it.

[@Scandinavian_Pride]

I have a Cobalt from 2015 (6400.1D/3200.1D) at 1 ohm it puts out right at 4,000 rms & it's never overheated nor has It blown 1 out of the 5 40amp fuses. Idk, about the cobalt today.....but yeah. In 2015 I paid about $400

[@rhurtadorh32]

Cobalt amp series sucks. Better off with the xtr line

[@bearxbunny1835]

Just bought 2 to replace my 2 xtr2500's, can't wait to hear them

[@jahquescousteauu7502]

awesome video my guy, this is the first video I've ran across from you and thumbs up good content, (I'm a new subscriber) i'm going to see if you have reviewed some other amps that i'm interested in to push my Sundown Audio x12v3's -like the "Skar RP -4500 and , or the Stinger MT-4000" please stay tuned, I hope to be dropping some content very soon on my own channel and my the progress of my custom made speaker boxes and mechanical work.

[@HiFiVector]

Thanks for subscribing! I appreciate it!

[@jitendrathannoo363]

The best amp ever

[@Scandinavian_Pride]

On the ventilation... See how the edge of the amp is made? ..... That's the small details that lower quality equipment look over.

[@Evo-ed7hw]

Just installed a hcca 5000.1dsplx wish u would have done an amp dyno on one of those. I tested a taramps big boss 8000 and honestly the taramps sounds way better

[@Contact_Info]

I don't like taramps because you have to be at least 14v or you clip

[@looogi21]

I got one matched with a single hcca12...... No joke at all💯💯

[@HiFiVector]

I bet!Awesome amp and sub combo!

[@csj9619]

HCCA = High Current Competition Amplifier

[@WidowedAudiophile]

So the call the subwoofers hcca to.

[@bretk7916]

Not anymore because they rated this thing at 13.5 so this app actually did not pass because voltage was high the old HCCAs were rated up to 16 volt

[@dirt_ripper8734]

Bad ass amp 🔥

[@markroberts715]

Dope amp

[@marcovaldovinos5009]

Great video

[@HiFiVector]

Thanks so much

[@bobdodge3171]

Enough electrical should not over 5k. Now I'll watch the video

[@Triplej863]

BEAST

[@thomasnelson213]

4 gauge is about power capacity, not the amp. If 4g can handle z amount of watts just find an amp that will do that power daily and your good

[@joshholden8561]

If i had the money this is my dream amp too bad i will never be able to afford one o litterally have 0. Extra money taking care of my family and paying my sick granparents bills.😢

[@Scandinavian_Pride]

I'm 51... I know how you feel. My mom just passed away Aug 3 from cancer.... She was the last of my family... But if you can put just $10 a week to the side PLUS the loose change you have in your pocket at the end of the day. You can have an amplifier like this in no time. Wishing you & your family well! 🫵🏻💪🏻🤙🏻

[@bearxbunny1835]

It will do much better if you had dual power and ground inputs on each input

[@HiFiVector]

No because keep in mind my batteries and power supplies are only 2 feet away from amp. So triple 1/0 on power and ground is way more than enough and actually overkill. Wire capacity is dictated by wire size and the length of the wire.

[@marknowakowski6590]

What’s this amp putting out at 12 v because most auto system are only putting that out unless they have an extra 600 bucks for a competition style alternator in there ride.

[@bretk7916]

You're charging system is actually 13.5 and you can increase your amperage by changing out your pulley for a smaller one in turn you'll need a smaller belt too by changing your pulley out you get higher amperage at idle also

[@shawn6684]

​@bretk7916 or you can get an external regulator and turn up the output of the alternator which would increase your voltage.

[@bretk7916]

​@@shawn6684no you cannot not without removing the stock regulator and not only that if you change your pulley out for smaller one you make more power at idle. And you're talking about higher voltage I'm talking about higher amperage. Also if you did it your way you would be sacrificing your amperage to increase voltage and you don't want to do that. Your best bet would just be to get a 16 volt system

[@bretk7916]

@@marknowakowski6590 let me clarify what I said a couple months ago the 13.5 is actually what your system runs at your alternator charges at 14.7. So another words when your voltage drops below the 13.5% will start charging again until it gets up to 14.7% if it doesn't get up to 14.7% that means your audio system is running between the 14.7 and 13.5. And if you were to switch out the pulley like previously mentioned if you had a 120 amp alternator and you I believe it's reduced by a half inch I can't remember exactly what mine is reduced to but I went from 120 amps to 280 and running 4,300 Watts clamped. And I run this system continuously for hours without my headlights dimming with one deep cycle and one standard flooded battery

[@shawn6684]

@bretk7916 i have smart charging system, I had an alternator built and also run smaller pulley and can control from a little box in my car what voltage is want it to run at lol

[@SoundBarrierEntertainment]

Do ya know where i can buy an amp dyno, cant seem to find em for sale , i wanna do commercial amps

[@HiFiVector]

You can use a HiFi vector DL-14 in conjunction with a SMD AMM-1 which would be around $2100 or buy and SMD AD-1 for $6000.

[@SoundBarrierEntertainment]

@@HiFiVector i want eh ad-1 but can not find a seller

[@bayramoglumurathan925]

Thanks.

[@HiFiVector]

You're welcome

[@raymondchapman5990]

Question........I'm fairly new to this audio terminology etc., so what is the most realistic output run that we will come close to listening to audio in our vehicle with an amplfier ? To clarify, you show certified, uncertified and dynamic burst, so which of those is realistic for us listening to music ? I know 13.8v-14.4v is the most realistic voltage while driving being oem alternators usually put out that voltage range. I am 48 so I remember these maroon colored Orion HCCA amps from the '90's and they were 'the' amps during that era. Actually, anything Orion was the way to go back then......amps, subs, speakers.......Orion was the shit. Knowing Orion from then, I bought an Orion XTR 1000.1D a few weeks ago and installed it on my P3D2 12" sub in a sealed enclosure and it is loud. I'm running it @1ohm. I also tried a Sundown 1500w @1ohm and I am positive the Orion XTR1000 is louder. I'm really impressed with the Orion XTR amp.

[@moabs10blowthru41]

@@raymondchapman5990 I'm running it with high output alts and headway lifep04 bank and I get 4k to 6.5k easy

[@MattGuynn]

Something is off here.. are these totally new ones ? I've seen Orion 3k do way more than this... Heck the 2500.dz I have does this ..

[@HiFiVector]

This is a newer version so it’s not exact the same as the old one from years ago.

[@MattGuynn]

@@HiFiVector oh ok 👌

[@OgTripleOGFunkEE]

Need 2

[@EgHatchK24a2]

whats the biggest and most powerful amp that i can buy that utilizes a 4 Gauge Input/Output

[@HiFiVector]

What thomasnelson said

[@74midwestbass74]

👍👍

[@gladboy7722]

💯💯💯🙏🙏🙏...🍻

[@littlejln213]

is this different than the one big d did a few years ago? are these a new version?

[@HiFiVector]

Yea that was an old version . This is the newer version.

[@littlejln213]

@@HiFiVector how much has it been changed?

[@JohnWalsh2019]

Any thoughts on the reliability of these amps? Thanks bro!

[@HiFiVector]

These amps are super reliable that that’s one thing that they’re known for besides, they’re awesome power output.

[@FrankStPeter]

@@JohnWalsh2019 I've run the XTR and HCCAs for years and I have some of the new ones the protection circuitry is unbelievable I've made some stupid rookie mistakes and the amps are fine,, I'm not going to say what I did but let's put it this way a half bridge would have blown up in my face,,, really dumb ,if you run the XTR don't run below rated ohm level,, with the HCCA and the in the correct box you can run down to .5 you have to be able to check your rise

[@JohnWalsh2019]

@@FrankStPeter Thank you!

[@BIGZOE]

Mine sucked it died in a 2 weeks and I contacted Orion and they told me even if I sent my amp to them to repair they don’t have anyone to fix it worse experience ever. Oh and I even tried contacting reputable amp repairmen and they all said no..

[@txddyfarquh69]

😮😮😮😮😮

[@BIGZOE]

@@txddyfarquh69 ever since Alphasonik bought Orion I’ve had trust issues. Should’ve went with my gut feeling.

[@TheGodofSEO]

Excellent amp for competitors. That thing will take 15.9 and not break a sweat.

[@HiFiVector]

Yep definitely. This amp is nice man just that simple. Thank you so much for watching my friend!

[@TheGodofSEO]

@@HiFiVector we appreciate you putting out these fire videos.

[@HiFiVector]

Means a lot thank you!

[@YewTewb82]

For the same price you can get a Taramps Big Boss 8 that does more

[@moabs10blowthru41]

I run my 5000.1dv2 at 1/2ohm making 6500 watts

[@Likeaboss236]

@moabs10blowthru41 how’s the amp holding up? I just bought the 5000.1 and I’m debating on running at 0.5 ohm before I buy my new Subs.

[@moabs10blowthru41]

@Likeaboss236 is yours the splx? Or dv2 ? Great with tons of voltage and fans

[@moabs10blowthru41]

Also my box rise keeps it at around 1.2 ohms while playing

[@Likeaboss236]

@ Splx, gonna be running it with a 320 amp alt on a 96 aH Lithium Headway bank at 14.8V

[@moabs10blowthru41]

@@Likeaboss236 I have 750 ah headway and two 370s and it still pulls down to 13.5 so be ready to beef up your batt bank

[@FrankStPeter]

You do know that amp can run up to 16 volts 🤔🤔

[@HiFiVector]

Yes I do. But specs are rated at 13.8 also if I test at 16 volts then I will get a bunch of guys complaining about how most cars are not at 16 volts and ask why I tested it at such high voltage. Which I kinda agree. But at the end of the day. I’m not trying to force as much power as I can into an amp to get the most inflated ratings. I am merely testing at an ample voltage that is more inline with what most people will want to know its output at.

[@FrankStPeter]

@@HiFiVector I understand what you're saying but I think me and you can both agree this is not a run of the mill amplifier guys that buy these are going to put the money into a power source and getting 15 and 16 volts isn't that hard anymore it's like what an extra $100 for a voltage regulator,,, I was just saying nobody's really pushed this amplifier to see what it can do,, not trying to be a smart-ass but here in Florida a lot of guys run 15 to15 .5 volts for some reason CMAX is really big here,,, still me personally I run headway at 14.8 but I also have XTRs

[@HiFiVector]

Maybe I will test again at least at 1 ohm to see what it does at high volts just for fun. Not promising but I’ll try my best to do it soon. But as you know 16v car systems are a big jump from 15v a lot of things change. So there are a lot more guys running 15v or under than 16v for sure But at the end of the day there are a ton of variables so different strokes for different folks. That’s what’s so cool about car audio… there are so many things you can tweak and change depending on on your car audio goals:) did is mention I love this amp? lol thanks man for watching I truly appreciate it!

[@bretk7916]

These aren't rated for 16-volt are they you had mentioned that it was rated at 13.5 the old ones told you that it was rated between 13.5 and 16 ​@@HiFiVector

[@tomb9566]

That's not my Orion. I'd take a best buy finest 💀 hot set up. I don't like the sound of class d amps( i have a few). i have a 1992, 1000-watt alpine mrv 1505 on my subs, and it sounds better than the taramp 3k it replaced. In my opinion, im an SQ guy. All class D amps are efficient, that's why maxxsonic and epsilon can over fuse them

[@girthquake9655]

Would rather take a big boss 5k for the money

[@HiFiVector]

I like taramps too own 5 of them as well and I love them but it’s not apples to apples. This is in the end a higher quality amplifier. That runs cooler and will surely outlast a taramps in the long run. Plus this is a Korean half bridge so the sound is smoother with better dampening. But again just depending what you like and your preference.